I have thousands scans of text (greyscale TIFFs on white background) that need cleaning up. Each scan has tiny black spots throughout the page, which cause unacceptably "dirty" prints. The only method I know is to select areas between text manually and hit the delete key - which takes about 30 mins per page! There must be a way to select an entire page and remove black spots of a certain size in one hit.
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I have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
Since today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
Video drivers are up to date.
Mode =rgb color - 8bit
I am having a huge issue with Photoshop CS5.5. The gradients and colors are acting crazy. When I bring in a image with a gradient it gets black spots all in the dark areas. Even when I use the default gradient selection this is what happens. When I bring in a picture that should have a white background it turns to black. Now apparently, when I save it out as a JPEG saves correctly without the black line or messed up gradients. So it seems to only be an issue when I am working in Photoshop, the gradients appear messed up. What is wrong with my display?
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View 9 Replies View RelatedWhen using the adjustments brush to locally increase exposure(for example) it seems that not all pixels are covered. In the red display of the selected zone you can see black spots all over the zone that are not selected even after repeated use of the adjustment brush. The result looks like heavy noise and is pretty bad. I must say it gives the impression that it happens with "low light" pictures only!? Windows/XP3, Lightroom2.2
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have VS X2 (sp1 & sp2 installed). I am trying to convert videos from an uncompressed AVI format to something of reasonable size.
Unfortunately, the original source of these videos only output at 1080i, so EVERYTHING (including some only NTSC standard def videos) is upscaled to 1080i format.
Problem #1: the up-scaled NTSC 4:3 videos are full top-to-bottom screen, with the expected black-bars on left/right. When I try to write them out in any VS X2 output format, they end up getting an additional black border all around, as if they are being shrunk. The pixelation is horrible (it's not like their quality started out good). What I'd really like to do is just get them converted to standard def with NO borders.
Problem #2: even native HD captures (mostly 1080i) end up with a small black border as if they've been slightly shrunk / scaled.
I have tried the CROP and the PAN/ZOOM filters and cannot find a setting or combination that makes these full-size, no-border.
Started producing a new catalogue some time ago very happy working away on the first 3 – 4 pages
Before long I was up to 100 pages, looking fantastic. But then the thought come to me, I have set may page colour to BLACK and all my drawing and text are WHITE as I said looks fantastic until you go to print a page. How much black Ink would you use printing 100 pages black.
SO MY QUESTION IS CAN COREL REVERSE THE LINE ART TO BLACK AND THE PAGE TO WHITE SO I CAN HAVE A PRINTABLE VERSION ?
I have tried publishing to PDF then in acrobat replacing document colours and on screen that works fine but when you print it still prints
With the black background and white text for some reason.
I am a Graphic Designer for a print shop and we just had a large document printed that looked to be in black and white but must have been in color somewhere (gray boxes) and used more clicks on the printer than we wanted. I'm wondering if there is a quick way to check a document like this in CS5 programs to see if it is truly in black and white or if there is something in there that is RGB or CMYK.
View 7 Replies View RelatedNot sure if this is an AutoCAD problem or not but it only occurs when printing from AutoCAD
When plotting from AutoCAD the plotter works fine for a portion of the page but then starts printing the entire page solid black. When I first create a pdf of my page and then plot the pdf everything works fine leading me to think it might be a AutoCAD problem.
I'm printing a letter size document from illustrator at 50% size. All pages have a white background so I would like to have the document print with a black rule/ border around it so I can tell what it will look like. Is there a way to do this without manually putting a rule around all 25 existing artboards? Or is there a way to do this in the Acrobat pdf I'm outputting from this doc?(CS5)
View 3 Replies View RelatedIs there a way to show the page border without the grey shadow, just a thin black line?
View 11 Replies View RelatedWhen printing a image in halftone from Corel x5. The image looks great in print preview but if I try printing it prints a solid black page.
View 7 Replies View Relatedtrying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
What would be the best way to get rid of the white spots on the attached photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need to turn a B&W photo into screen print art without using a line screen (just block colours) - essentially I'm creating a 3 colour black and white images using:
- PANTONE 4625 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 6 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C
Using a bunch of techniques (unsharp mask, tritone and posterize) I have line art that looks great with a posterize level of 4. But I've noticed that Photoshop is using my Tritone colours to mix itself an extra tone - and if I switch to a level of 3, Photoshop chooses to remove the level that PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C uses which deletes all the highlight detail.
Is there a way I can specify colours that Posterize uses?Or is there a different approch I can use to split the tones into the ones in the Tritone?
I've tried playing with the curves in the Tritone window to try and influence the colours photoshop uses (so no colour mixing) but maybe I need to somehow save the Tritone layers into the channels pallate?
I had a picture of a 10 year old, I want to use photoshop to make the 10 year old in the photo look 60... i want to add wrinkles, age spots, yellow the teeth, thin the lips... etc...
View 2 Replies View RelatedI just got a freelance job cleaning/sharpening and generally making beautimous, about 100 deep sea photos...all was going according to plan, when I came upon a large group that, as soon as I brought the levels up, along came these horrific sprays of water spotting, that I have no idea how to deal with. I don't think there's a way to make it look real if I use a tool like the clone or bandaid, and I tried working in LAB mode, to see if there was any way I could make a difference with the gaussian blur, but that did nothing, and that may just have been hopefull. I can't remove the guys background, and I know there are some extra softwear programs that work with spotting etc. but in this case I can't see how they would work and still keep the picture sharp..?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI trying to touch up an old photo that has lots of white spots on it. I want to use the patch tool but when a select a section of the photo and use it to patch the patch is partly transparent, you can still see white through the patch. I don't have transparent selected so I don't know why this is happening?
View 11 Replies View RelatedI am using the CS6 trial in order to decide if I want to switch over from CS4. When I try to use liquify, I get a teal screen with a few light spots that are vaguely in the shape of the image. If I select a tool it does not show up over the image, only around the edges. I've heard that CS6 liquify requires significantly better graphics than previous versions. Is my computer simply incapable of handling the new version? I realize that my computer is not ideal for image editing, and I try as much as I can to work in the maclab at school, but both of these computers were able to handle CS4.
Computer1: AMD athlon II x4640 processor 3.0ghz, 8gb ram, ATI Radeon HD4200
Computer 2: intelcore i7-2620m processor, 6gb ram, intel hd graphics 3000
I recently got married and it was drizzeling the day of the wedding when we took the beach photos. My very favorite photo was one that had water spots on the lense of the camera, so in turn made the water spots on the digital photo.
I know photoshop well, but don't spend a lot of time retouching photos, so this isn't an area that I am super well versed in.
Do i just use the clone tool or the healing brush? I haven't used the healing brush very much or the bandaid tool? Are they similar to the clone tool?
what would be the best way to eliminate shiny spots on a face?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Light room and remove the flash effect).
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why i have billions little light spots all over my picture ( render ) ? I also notice when put only one material ( vraymat) i dont have little light spots.
I used vray.vraylight ( sun ). vrayphysical camera.
Running LR5 on Win7, I can't see "Visualize Spots." I select the Spot Removal tool, but the Visualize Spots option does not appear below the preview. I can turn it on with the "A" keyboard shortcut, and the display does change to show the tool in action, but I still don't see the tool displayed below the preview (therefore, I can't adjust the strength). I do have the "Tool Overlay" option selected to show, and I don't see any other view setting or preference option that appears to affect it.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've got a hatching problem...whenever I try to use a "dot" hatching...at a scale of 50.000....I tend to get this wierd white spots on different areas...and it seems to flush with the MLeaders...(See Attached Image).
View 4 Replies View RelatedSpot syncing with "no" spots is not working in Lr5.3 (did not work in 5.2 either)
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and sync the "NON" spotting to a target photo that has spotting, the spotting is not cleared as it should be on the target photo.
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and put ONE new spot in the source photo and sync this ONE spot to a target photo that has spotting, all the spotting is removed from the target photo and the ONE spot is the only one in the target photo as expected.
Shouldn't the sync of spotting always work the same, with or without spotting in the source photo?
I think this should be considered a bug or at least a design flaw. OSX 10.8.5 LR5.3
I have found loads of tutorials showing how to do this with a normal single tone page but I am having trouble getting the curl to work well on the bottom right hand corner with the texture and also the torn edge. I have tried distorting it but it just goes all blurred.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI`m using photoshop 6 and recently i installed nik collection software, but now i have a problem. When i open a picture with the plug-in there are a lot of blue spots on it... i was told that the problem is not in the plug in .... i tried different versions of that plug in and nothing worked.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI took some pictures outside recently and when I looked at them later realized there were sun spots on them. I have Coral Paint Shop Pro x2 and how to remove this sun spots so I can salvage the pictures. Some of the spots are yellowish color and some are white. They are all on peoples legs so I have not been able to find a way to remove them. I have tried the cloning but it looks funny. I have also tried creating a new layer and removing the color yellow from the picture but that doesnt seem to work either.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI guess one way to do it would be to capture the color of my facial skin, then paintbrush the area over with that color. But how do i do that? or do you have a better method?
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