trying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
I have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
Well I am new here and this is my first post. Anyway, I made a shape with the "Polygonal Lasso Tool" and the edges are rough and I am wanting to know of a way to smooth out the roughness so I have good looking edges.
I am using PS7 to create a logo. When I add a layer with text and use the tool to arc the text, the text appears to look very rough around the edges. If I do not arc the text, the edges of the text is smooth. I've also tried to arc the text in MS Word using WordArt and it retains its smoothness there, but once copied and pasted into PS7, it becomes rough again. This makes the logo look a little unprofessional.
Is there a specific type of font I should be using as opposed to a TrueType or is there something else I can do?
I have a technique for creating a 'rough' black border on photos, but it can't be used with actions. (By rough I mean a similar effect to that which used to be reproduced when darkroom printing from a full frame 35mm negative).
Can anyone please suggest a technique to produce such an effect which I could record into an action, it would have to work with both horizontal and vertical photos, though the longest edge size would remain the same.
Did the programmers make the pen tool in CC worse or am I missing something. If I draw a path in cc and stroke it with a 2px hard brush the line is extremely jagged/rough. If I do it in CS6 that I own, the line is smooth and very fine. What gives?
Since today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
Video drivers are up to date. Mode =rgb color - 8bit
I need to turn a B&W photo into screen print art without using a line screen (just block colours) - essentially I'm creating a 3 colour black and white images using:
- PANTONE 4625 C - PANTONE Warm Gray 6 C - PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C
Using a bunch of techniques (unsharp mask, tritone and posterize) I have line art that looks great with a posterize level of 4. But I've noticed that Photoshop is using my Tritone colours to mix itself an extra tone - and if I switch to a level of 3, Photoshop chooses to remove the level that PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C uses which deletes all the highlight detail.
Is there a way I can specify colours that Posterize uses?Or is there a different approch I can use to split the tones into the ones in the Tritone?
I've tried playing with the curves in the Tritone window to try and influence the colours photoshop uses (so no colour mixing) but maybe I need to somehow save the Tritone layers into the channels pallate?
I have thousands scans of text (greyscale TIFFs on white background) that need cleaning up. Each scan has tiny black spots throughout the page, which cause unacceptably "dirty" prints. The only method I know is to select areas between text manually and hit the delete key - which takes about 30 mins per page! There must be a way to select an entire page and remove black spots of a certain size in one hit.
I had a picture of a 10 year old, I want to use photoshop to make the 10 year old in the photo look 60... i want to add wrinkles, age spots, yellow the teeth, thin the lips... etc...
I just got a freelance job cleaning/sharpening and generally making beautimous, about 100 deep sea photos...all was going according to plan, when I came upon a large group that, as soon as I brought the levels up, along came these horrific sprays of water spotting, that I have no idea how to deal with. I don't think there's a way to make it look real if I use a tool like the clone or bandaid, and I tried working in LAB mode, to see if there was any way I could make a difference with the gaussian blur, but that did nothing, and that may just have been hopefull. I can't remove the guys background, and I know there are some extra softwear programs that work with spotting etc. but in this case I can't see how they would work and still keep the picture sharp..?
I am running 2005 ADT. In certain drawing, but not all the edges of my text appear very rough. It doesn't seem to have much effect on the plotting, but it tears at the eye and is distracting. I think its some kind of variable because it doesn't occur is every drawing.
When I open up an MTEXT editor the text looks correct.
Recently I created an elevation which included a door with leaded glass. When I originally drew the arcs and circles they were symmetrical and smooth, but now they are rough and ugly.
I trying to touch up an old photo that has lots of white spots on it. I want to use the patch tool but when a select a section of the photo and use it to patch the patch is partly transparent, you can still see white through the patch. I don't have transparent selected so I don't know why this is happening?
I am using the CS6 trial in order to decide if I want to switch over from CS4. When I try to use liquify, I get a teal screen with a few light spots that are vaguely in the shape of the image. If I select a tool it does not show up over the image, only around the edges. I've heard that CS6 liquify requires significantly better graphics than previous versions. Is my computer simply incapable of handling the new version? I realize that my computer is not ideal for image editing, and I try as much as I can to work in the maclab at school, but both of these computers were able to handle CS4.
Computer1: AMD athlon II x4640 processor 3.0ghz, 8gb ram, ATI Radeon HD4200 Computer 2: intelcore i7-2620m processor, 6gb ram, intel hd graphics 3000
I recently got married and it was drizzeling the day of the wedding when we took the beach photos. My very favorite photo was one that had water spots on the lense of the camera, so in turn made the water spots on the digital photo.
I know photoshop well, but don't spend a lot of time retouching photos, so this isn't an area that I am super well versed in.
Do i just use the clone tool or the healing brush? I haven't used the healing brush very much or the bandaid tool? Are they similar to the clone tool?
On 2012 and have run into a problem with curved lines...all curved lines circles etc. The intial draw properly but later when I go back to that portion of the drawing they are converted to rough lines...not a curve anymore segments of straight lines...cant seem to prevent if from happening.
I am trying to animate a spline or jointed border object over an irregular surface.I want to add particles to the spline in the end to try to simulate a fire burning outward across a terrain.
I tried booleaning out a border and while that works, when I add particles to it, it overwhelms my computer. I tried using shapeMerge but that doesn't quite do what I want either. Itoo's glue plugin conforms an object to the terrain but doesn't allow me to animate it.
I asked a question a couple days ago regarding the effects of old style print. Although, I know a lot of it is done manually, I was wondering if it could also be done digitally in either Illustrator or Photoshop.
In Illustrator I created 10 brush strokes from a jagged pattern found in a vintage element to represent the scratch board or printing effect. In Photoshop you can kind of create the effect from switching to a Bitmap mode.
However, Photoshop is a pain to bend the halftone lines to fit the curves and they are all evenly spaced. Illustrator works better for laying ou the lines based on the tonal value, but using a brush for the strokes becomes a little distorted.
How to achieve the jagged edge effect show in this very simple image? The edges and lines are not all the same so I don't want to use the ripple tool in PS and the wrinkle Tool makes them too ragged.
I find it hard to believe this style is only accomplished through scratch board or printing techniques. Even traditional pen and ink doesn't really work like this. I find way too many images, free ones too, like the one below to have it be only done with scratch board.
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Light room and remove the flash effect).
I am having a huge issue with Photoshop CS5.5. The gradients and colors are acting crazy. When I bring in a image with a gradient it gets black spots all in the dark areas. Even when I use the default gradient selection this is what happens. When I bring in a picture that should have a white background it turns to black. Now apparently, when I save it out as a JPEG saves correctly without the black line or messed up gradients. So it seems to only be an issue when I am working in Photoshop, the gradients appear messed up. What is wrong with my display?
