I just got a freelance job cleaning/sharpening and generally making beautimous, about 100 deep sea photos...all was going according to plan, when I came upon a large group that, as soon as I brought the levels up, along came these horrific sprays of water spotting, that I have no idea how to deal with. I don't think there's a way to make it look real if I use a tool like the clone or bandaid, and I tried working in LAB mode, to see if there was any way I could make a difference with the gaussian blur, but that did nothing, and that may just have been hopefull. I can't remove the guys background, and I know there are some extra softwear programs that work with spotting etc. but in this case I can't see how they would work and still keep the picture sharp..?
I recently got married and it was drizzeling the day of the wedding when we took the beach photos. My very favorite photo was one that had water spots on the lense of the camera, so in turn made the water spots on the digital photo.
I know photoshop well, but don't spend a lot of time retouching photos, so this isn't an area that I am super well versed in.
Do i just use the clone tool or the healing brush? I haven't used the healing brush very much or the bandaid tool? Are they similar to the clone tool?
I'm new to Gimp - I've had it installed on my computer for a while now but haven't tried to use it because it's got so many features it was just - well, intimidating. But now I've started a big scanning project involving a lot of old family photos, and as you can imagine they're not all in good shape. So I have some repairs to do.
The first one I scanned turned out pretty nice, but the second one is challenging me. It dates from about the 1920s and looks kind of sepia-toned but I had to scan it in gray shades because of a kind of moire pattern at the bottom (it's mounted on a piece of thick cardboard which is bowed and I had trouble getting it to lay flat on the scanner bed, so maybe that's why). The black-and-white image that resulted actually looks better than the sepia, but there are a lot of water spots in the upper left corner. Some of them are really large and in many different shades of gray, which is making it almost impossible for me to fix them using the cloning tool. I thought about just copying and pasting from a better section, but all those different gray shades mean that didn't work very well either. I can crop some of them out, but not all, and besides, the cropping changes the composition of the photo, and not in a good way.
Obviously I don't have great skills with this software (although I'm thinking that might be different by the time I get this project finished ). FYI, the version I have is 2.6.11, which is probably old; I could update if necessary. And it's running in Windows XP SP3.
I have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
I want to make a fountain that has water jets that cause ripples when they hit the water. I have tried the basic reactor water and Pflow setup, as well as super spray, but neither seem to work. Is there any way to accomplish this without "faking" it by doing something creative with the water's texture?
trying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
In an object type Project I have a form with a button that calls another sub of the same form, the code looks something like this:
Private Sub CommandButton1_Click ()
'Set a Part Document as active document Dim oDoc As Inventor.PartDocument Set oDoc = ThisApplication.Documents.Open ("C: Users oZteC Documents Inventor Experiment part1.ipt", True) oDoc.Activate
'Call "ModelParameters" within the same form Call ModelParameters
End Sub ____________________
Public Sub ModelParameters () .... End sub
I want to move the sub "ModelParameters" to the object type PartDocument, the problem is when I move it the call doesn't work. I want to run something like this:
ApplicationProject> Form> ClickButton ----> call to ----> DocumentProject> ThisDocument> Sub
I'm really curious, is it possible to call or modify/inherit any autocad command? I'm looking to create a command that hatches the area between an offset, but I can't find any material on how to even utilize existing commands.
I would like to make an Inventor AddIn with commands (functions) that can be called from other standalone applications. I have tried to create a COM interface for my AddIn, and that works with rather small effort, but I think I have heard that it should be possible to do this without the COM interface. I would like to avoid COM if possible. if I need to do anything special in the AddIn to make the function visible and how I on client side calls the function.
app name, but is there any way of using (calling) operations from inside my C# code?What I'm saying is that, there is a SDK through Paint.NET so I can have simple Image Editing from my custom application?
If not, is there a way to call Paint.NET trough my code, make some editing and then closing Paint.NET continue handling the iage from my C# app?If this is not suitable for my needs, any simple Image editing tool so I can use through my C# application?
Since today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
Video drivers are up to date. Mode =rgb color - 8bit
I need to turn a B&W photo into screen print art without using a line screen (just block colours) - essentially I'm creating a 3 colour black and white images using:
- PANTONE 4625 C - PANTONE Warm Gray 6 C - PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C
Using a bunch of techniques (unsharp mask, tritone and posterize) I have line art that looks great with a posterize level of 4. But I've noticed that Photoshop is using my Tritone colours to mix itself an extra tone - and if I switch to a level of 3, Photoshop chooses to remove the level that PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C uses which deletes all the highlight detail.
Is there a way I can specify colours that Posterize uses?Or is there a different approch I can use to split the tones into the ones in the Tritone?
I've tried playing with the curves in the Tritone window to try and influence the colours photoshop uses (so no colour mixing) but maybe I need to somehow save the Tritone layers into the channels pallate?
I have thousands scans of text (greyscale TIFFs on white background) that need cleaning up. Each scan has tiny black spots throughout the page, which cause unacceptably "dirty" prints. The only method I know is to select areas between text manually and hit the delete key - which takes about 30 mins per page! There must be a way to select an entire page and remove black spots of a certain size in one hit.
I had a picture of a 10 year old, I want to use photoshop to make the 10 year old in the photo look 60... i want to add wrinkles, age spots, yellow the teeth, thin the lips... etc...
I have a top level assembly created from multiple subassemblies. In my drawing view, I would like to add leaders calling out the subassemblies. Is this possible with Inventor 2013? It seems easy - am I missing something?
I tried adding leaders, and selecting the model properties, selected the subassembly, then picked part number. The leader always reverts back to the part level.
Product Design Suite Ultimate 2014 Vault Professional 2014 Windows 7 Pro SP1 HP-Z400: 2.67 GHz 12 Gb Ram Nvidia Quadro FX1800 driver 276.42
The explorer Windows when selecting file from the context menu to bring up the iProperties. Properties window creates a file C:Program FilesAutodeskInventor 2013BinDTCPexe.exe?
As most applies the program DTCPexe.exe to cause property to C:Part.ipt?
I trying to touch up an old photo that has lots of white spots on it. I want to use the patch tool but when a select a section of the photo and use it to patch the patch is partly transparent, you can still see white through the patch. I don't have transparent selected so I don't know why this is happening?
I am using the CS6 trial in order to decide if I want to switch over from CS4. When I try to use liquify, I get a teal screen with a few light spots that are vaguely in the shape of the image. If I select a tool it does not show up over the image, only around the edges. I've heard that CS6 liquify requires significantly better graphics than previous versions. Is my computer simply incapable of handling the new version? I realize that my computer is not ideal for image editing, and I try as much as I can to work in the maclab at school, but both of these computers were able to handle CS4.
Computer1: AMD athlon II x4640 processor 3.0ghz, 8gb ram, ATI Radeon HD4200 Computer 2: intelcore i7-2620m processor, 6gb ram, intel hd graphics 3000
I'm finding Mleaders with Mtext don't seem to play well with command calls. All works fine until one tries to enter the mleader text. Before testing this, be sure your mleader style is set to use mtext. I recommend starting the leader with the arrow first.
Compare this mleader's text entry behavior in this basic lisp command call:(command "_.acad_dim.mleader") with the following routine that relies on an open ended command prompt (useful if you want to add more commands after calling the mleader command):
I have been trying to create a macro to control an assembly. The problem is that I need to access a certain parameter in a specific part in the assembly. I can get the exact parameter by using the "name" of the given parameter, ex .Item("d7") to call the parameter d7. The problem for me has been what name do I use to call out a given part, I have been using .Item(Index number), ex .Item(12), but this number can change as parts are added, deleted, or suppressed.
The question is what "name" should I be using and how do I use it. I have tried
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Light room and remove the flash effect).
I am having a huge issue with Photoshop CS5.5. The gradients and colors are acting crazy. When I bring in a image with a gradient it gets black spots all in the dark areas. Even when I use the default gradient selection this is what happens. When I bring in a picture that should have a white background it turns to black. Now apparently, when I save it out as a JPEG saves correctly without the black line or messed up gradients. So it seems to only be an issue when I am working in Photoshop, the gradients appear messed up. What is wrong with my display?
Today I got an error message when trying to export a photo. It has never happened before. Win32 API error 2, system cannot find specified file when calling Shell Execute ExW from AG Workspace. shell execute
