I had a picture of a 10 year old, I want to use photoshop to make the 10 year old in the photo look 60... i want to add wrinkles, age spots, yellow the teeth, thin the lips... etc...
View 2 RepliesI have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
I've got a pic with a sky that looks like about 6 pieces and overlapped a bit. They're all the same blue and they don't show up on my computer screen.......just prints from a kiosk.
It's hard to describe but I'm sure that there's a name for it and it has probably been discussed many times here. Can anyone help?
Any suggestions on how to restore this photo? I am having problems with getting rid of the folds and wrinkles. The original picture was printed on linen and then framed. The hardest part is in the little boy's (I know he looks like I girl.) shirt. I am having trouble with the vertical stripes.
View 6 Replies View Relatedhave been trying to remove face wrinkles in CS4 without success. I have tried to follow 2 separate instructions from lynda.com, both finished up looking worse. The latest on to use the clone tool, set to lighten. The only think I finish up with a reddish looking stripes.
View 27 Replies View RelatedI have a wrinkled eye texture (see below)How do I digitally manipulate it so that i can use this same texture to on top of other photos so that it fits/blends well with people of different ethnic origins? my aim is to make poeple looking older using the same texture. So far I've tried: - Making the texture black and white and use different filters, but it doesnt work on all the different skin colours and it doesnt look real.- Using Multiply filter after adjusting the original texture - that seems to work well except on people with darker skin, then the wrinkles are just too dark. I would like to know if anyone knows a simple way where i can make this texture works on all skin colours, with out going in and adjusting the wrinkle texture one by one according to each individual.
View 17 Replies View RelatedI've been working on a photo-realistic picture lately, but I can't seem to get the wrinkles in the guy's skin to look right. I'm finding very little info out there on how to do it. Is there any specific procedure for doing it, or is it just a trial-and-error kind of thing?
View 9 Replies View RelatedHow to remove wrinkles from a tablecloth? I have a wedding photo with a tablecloth wrinkled that I want to smooth out.
I can reduce the luminance difference with a luminance mask + curves or exposure layer, then maybe use frequency separation or patch tool, and make it look better, but how to make it look smooth?
How would I remove the wrinkles on this piece of work without destroying the background? What are some ways to do this besides the stamp tool?
View 9 Replies View RelatedThere must be a filter that can do this in one click, but I can't find it. The Clone Stamp tool will be too laborious.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI can't find the lasso tool for whitening teeth.Â
View 3 Replies View Relatedteeth look horribly yellow in some recent pics. I am not like the "crest white girl" or any thing. But they aren't as bad as they look in these pictures I recently took.
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View 4 Replies View Relatedfound toothbrush icon in pallette. have the teeth highlighted but I am blowed if I canfind what to do next, there does not seem to be an apply button. Using Elements 7
View 1 Replies View Relatedway to take away sun glare from teeth or faces to make it match the rest of a face, or to tone down overexposure on skin in a flash photo, so the skin doesnt look too red or white?
View 2 Replies View Relatedi want plugins/short solutions for..
1. one/few clicks blemish removal / teeth whitening
2. nice frames and templates that can emulate the neoprint style [ trying extensis photoframe now.. but quite plain.. ]
3. other types of rendering which add on to the filters in PS CS2..personally prefer filters like photocopy / sumi-E.. those tad can make ur photo look like a hand-drawn one / cartoon look..
4. few clicks eye colour changing.. [ i can use PS to change.. but then process really too long.. and got many pics to edit.. ]
most of these are partly due to the last reason.. there are simply too much to do already..
I've been trying to remove wrinkles with it but it doesn't do anything... Is it bugged? And how does it work?
View 2 Replies View RelatedA few websites claim there is a special tool in Photo & Graphic Designer 9 for whitening teeth in a photo.
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View 7 Replies View RelatedWhen I go to the adjustment brush, the pop-ups for skin softening and teeth whitening do not pop-up. How can I get these to show up on my screen?
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have a photo with a line near a teeth model which i need to measure. i have attached photo to autocad but how can i setup the real world scale so my measurements will be accurate?
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Is it possible, using Design Accelerator to have Bevel Gears with straight teeth? I've tried every combo I can think of, and they are always curved teeth. Gears are not my most knowledgeable subject. I usually have the engineers produce the specs, & I get to draw them - they are not happy with the pictorial results.
Inventor Product Design Suite Premium 2013
Is there any way using the adjustment brush to soften skin blemishes and wrinkles in portrait photography? I know in PS CS5 I can selectively use gaussian blur to achieve this but want to use LR extensively if I can. I have LR 4.4
View 4 Replies View Relatedtrying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
I want to create a 3D model for a metal frame I bought commerically. To create the model in Inventor, I need to know the bend angle such as the one shown in the first figure of:
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What kind of tool do I need to measure the bend angle of the real metal frame reasonably accurately?
In Inventor, is there an easy eay to create the teeth of the servo horns?
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Generating fellows stub teeth (6/8, 8/10) teeth using IV gear generator?
View 4 Replies View RelatedSince today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
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If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
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Video drivers are up to date.
Mode =rgb color - 8bit
What would be the best way to get rid of the white spots on the attached photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need to turn a B&W photo into screen print art without using a line screen (just block colours) - essentially I'm creating a 3 colour black and white images using:
- PANTONE 4625 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 6 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C
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Using a bunch of techniques (unsharp mask, tritone and posterize) I have line art that looks great with a posterize level of 4. But I've noticed that Photoshop is using my Tritone colours to mix itself an extra tone - and if I switch to a level of 3, Photoshop chooses to remove the level that PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C uses which deletes all the highlight detail.
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Is there a way I can specify colours that Posterize uses?Or is there a different approch I can use to split the tones into the ones in the Tritone?
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I've tried playing with the curves in the Tritone window to try and influence the colours photoshop uses (so no colour mixing) but maybe I need to somehow save the Tritone layers into the channels pallate?
I have thousands scans of text (greyscale TIFFs on white background) that need cleaning up. Each scan has tiny black spots throughout the page, which cause unacceptably "dirty" prints. The only method I know is to select areas between text manually and hit the delete key - which takes about 30 mins per page! There must be a way to select an entire page and remove black spots of a certain size in one hit.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI just got a freelance job cleaning/sharpening and generally making beautimous, about 100 deep sea photos...all was going according to plan, when I came upon a large group that, as soon as I brought the levels up, along came these horrific sprays of water spotting, that I have no idea how to deal with. I don't think there's a way to make it look real if I use a tool like the clone or bandaid, and I tried working in LAB mode, to see if there was any way I could make a difference with the gaussian blur, but that did nothing, and that may just have been hopefull. I can't remove the guys background, and I know there are some extra softwear programs that work with spotting etc. but in this case I can't see how they would work and still keep the picture sharp..?
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