Photoshop :: How To Remove Flash Spots From Silver Colored Objects
Jun 28, 2013
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Light room and remove the flash effect).
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Lightroom and remove the flash effect).
We need a macro that will allow you to select a certain color fill inside document and change all to no fill hairlines. It needs to be capable of doing it several times within the same document. Does anything like this exist out there?
We have color replacer. We want it to do this automactically with a static group of colors everytime without any manual maniplulation required.
I'm a total newbie to Gimp. I want to remove a couple spots on a jpg picture of mine. I've read and watched videos that say to open the picture, click on the healing tool, then press ctrl and click at the same time and pick a good area on the picture. Then after that, you can click on the spots to remove them. I try to do all this and it won't work. I get a plus sign and/or a circle with a line through it.
What does that mean? How on earth would I know how to fix this? I got it once yesterday but I don't know what I did. It seem to change when I changed the size of the brush but it was probably something else that changed it. It's probably something so simple.
I have taken a series of pictures in a light box with the aim of using them in a school recipe book we are making and selling for charity. I'd like to try and remove the background of one image in particular. The image is of a plain cupcake in a white liner taken on a white background. My aim is to use the image on either a white page of a pastel tinted page with the recipe listed at the side.
I have been playing around with the clone stamp, but I can't get a look I like. We are trying to have this photo printed to be framed (just 3x5) so does not have to be perfect, but I would like to get the flash reflection out of here....
I have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
how to create B&W photos but with colored objects. For example having a B&W photo of a kitchen table with plates etc. yet the apple in the fruit bowl is red.
I have a jpeg with a white background and solid colored clipart image. I need to remove the colored part of the jpeg image with magic wand in illustrator cs6 and make it a vector image. The magic wand doesn't seem to do anything in illustrator. I did it in Photoshop and saved it as a PNG with trnsprnt background opened it up in illustrator and it was all jagged. It is such a simple image, only two colors, blue on white.
I've been getting pink or purgle lines bordering certain objects in my photographs. You can see them on the RAW images. When I merge them using HDR you can see how prominent the lines become. I'm not sure if the problem occurs in my camera (Canon T2i) or lens when I take the shot.I've tried using Color Range and the Magic Wand Tool but it is a tedious process.
how to birhgten and shapren and use the stamp tool to remove unwanted objects. but how would i go about making this picture look fantastic. im using it as my desktop but it looks a little fuzzy. i added title and switz flag to it.
I have been using autocad for a while and have always been able to use "R" to remove objects from a selection set. All of a sudden now when I want to use that command it activates the "Redraw" command instead of letting me remove objects from my set.
I’ve already tried to purge and audit the file and delete every object that I can find that may be a proxy but it still shows up every time I open the file
Is there any way for me to QSELECT or remove the object that is causing me problems
I do have the enablers on so I can see the object problem is there so many objects I don’t know where to start looking.
I am currently working on a project with an architect and I have some elevations that are in the current floor plan sheet. During the last project review he wants to move them off the floor plan sheet and onto another sheet. No Problem. However when i went back to regenerate the elevation to copy to another sheet, I noticed that there were a flashing boxes where the old elevations were. Is there something there that needs to be purged somehow. I tried using the purge command and they are still there.
My boss came to me with a max question and its been a while since ive used max. he has a single diagonal line on the face of every solid in his model. I tried every fix i know and nothing worked.
then we found a site and the fix worked after reboot, for all of 5 minutes and the it went back. He is using XP based pc with MAX7.
I am using stokes to mask out a shape I want. I want to remove these strokes altogether but retain the masked shape.
So for example the below image has three circles with a white stroke to form the shapes I desire.
I am perfectly happy with this when it is on a white background but I want the strokes to be transparent rather than white so that they cannot be seen on a non-white background (see below).
Obviously if I just make the strokes transparent I lose the desired shape.
This is what I am trying to achieve (this was done in Photoshop but I want to achieve the same in Illustrator).
Basically, I am working on this pause screen pic from Mass Effect 3. I am trying to turn it into a good background for my phone. I'm trying to do a number of things with it, some of which are proving easier than others. The most difficult thing I want to do is remove all the buttons from the right hand side, so there are five buttons on the left and just background on the right.
How would be best to go about this? I have tried selecting individual sections and painting over them with a gradient fill, and I've tried using an automatic resynthesizer plugin using a selected texture, but neither have yielded good results. The former becomes obvious due to its uniformity when done in large doses and the latter just comes out all wrong.
I am trying to iterate through objects in a layer and if the object satisfy a condition, I want to remove it.
Problem is that from what I suspect, if I use a "for loop" then when I remove an element, the initial length of the loop becomes invalid by removing the element. So what I would need is to iterate through objects in another matter and I am clueless.
I have several hundred drawings that I needed to update the Title Block on. I used Toolpac to Redefine the blocks, then Scriptpro to run a simple script to ATTSYNC the blocks. This was all done in AutoCAD Map 3D 2012. Now, when my users open the drawings with AutoCAD LT 2012, they get a proxy graphics warning. I opened a drawing in AutoCAD 2012 as well and the proxy warning came up there too so I know it's not just LT. I assume it has to do with AutoCAD Map, however when I've run the same sort of processes (updating title block) from the command line in Map 3D, the proxy graphics aren't introduced.
I am unsure how to determine what proxy graphic was introduced. I've tried a lsp to delete the proxy but it says none was found.
Is it possible to bind a drawing and have only the objects visible in the viewport to remain in model space after binding. I'm working with some pretty big models and am trying to reduce file sizes after binding.
I'm trying to make some book covers and get a decent emboss effect. I'm only using Photoshop Elements 7 but it does have an Emboss facility in the Stylise part of the Filters menu.
The problem is that whatever I do the embossing always comes out in white/silver when I'm trying to get black. Why the hell is that and why can't it be changed? Does anyone know how?
