I guess one way to do it would be to capture the color of my facial skin, then paintbrush the area over with that color. But how do i do that? or do you have a better method?
View 1 RepliesIs there a way to remove marks / pimples/etc without "corrupting" the rest of the image?( I mean without being obvious that the image was altered/processed.
View 3 Replies View Relatedwhat would be the best way to eliminate shiny spots on a face?
View 2 Replies View Relatedwhen I anchor the layer face over the background face the floating selection disappears which means I cannot work on the layer face and therfore am unable to erase the layer face into the background face,this is on gimp 2.6
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
I'm new to Gimp - I've had it installed on my computer for a while now but haven't tried to use it because it's got so many features it was just - well, intimidating. But now I've started a big scanning project involving a lot of old family photos, and as you can imagine they're not all in good shape. So I have some repairs to do.
The first one I scanned turned out pretty nice, but the second one is challenging me. It dates from about the 1920s and looks kind of sepia-toned but I had to scan it in gray shades because of a kind of moire pattern at the bottom (it's mounted on a piece of thick cardboard which is bowed and I had trouble getting it to lay flat on the scanner bed, so maybe that's why). The black-and-white image that resulted actually looks better than the sepia, but there are a lot of water spots in the upper left corner. Some of them are really large and in many different shades of gray, which is making it almost impossible for me to fix them using the cloning tool. I thought about just copying and pasting from a better section, but all those different gray shades mean that didn't work very well either. I can crop some of them out, but not all, and besides, the cropping changes the composition of the photo, and not in a good way.
Obviously I don't have great skills with this software (although I'm thinking that might be different by the time I get this project finished ). FYI, the version I have is 2.6.11, which is probably old; I could update if necessary. And it's running in Windows XP SP3.
See the image.
I'm a total newbie to Gimp. I want to remove a couple spots on a jpg picture of mine. I've read and watched videos that say to open the picture, click on the healing tool, then press ctrl and click at the same time and pick a good area on the picture. Then after that, you can click on the spots to remove them. I try to do all this and it won't work. I get a plus sign and/or a circle with a line through it.
What does that mean? How on earth would I know how to fix this? I got it once yesterday but I don't know what I did. It seem to change when I changed the size of the brush but it was probably something else that changed it. It's probably something so simple.
I'm completing an ad for a bakery and the image of a cupcake that I'm trying to use wasn't done in a whitebox, hence alot of glare on the lefthand part of the image. It's washed out the pink frosting into an almost white color and the strawberries are not saturated in color. Is there something I can do to get rid of the white spot and make the image look as if it was shot professionally in a white box?
(in the image, it's the front most chocolate cupcake)
I have a nice .jpg, but the subject has stubble on his face. How can I make him look clean-shaven? Can I do that with GIMP?
View 2 Replies View RelatedBest way to get the colours to be the same when I replace a face onto another face esp if you can lightly dust the colours in so the finished picture looks natural
View 1 Replies View Relatedhow can I select a face from a pic and then export it to another program?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI would like to know the quickest way to create face in hole type photo templates. I was at Universal studios and was impressed by the speed they could create face on body images.
I am thinking it has to do with lasso select tool with a feather on edges > invert selection.
Also what is the quickest way to make the photo face match the original face color. (is there some kind of color select to do this?)
How to remove a watermark from a pic when it`s crossing a persons face? Found a picture of a friend of mine, so this is just for private use.
View 1 Replies View Relatedi'm trying to plend a face (happens to be Justin Timberlake) into the face of a snake, I have the selection matched up and have the layer mask so i could erase the extra. The main problem I am having is the difficulty of getting the colors and textures right, the actual blending the face in part.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI forgot how to remove the highlight (border) around this face. I try to change background color black to white .
[URL].......
Basically I have 2 images, 1 is a texture background and the other is a face. I wanna create the effect that the face is blended into the photo just like in this one:
[URL]........
I am working on an image of Elvis and using layers and blending techniques to put the music to one of his songs over his face. But I want the musical overlay to mold to the curves of his face. Is there a way to do this? The blend mode I'm currently using is Multiply. I have tried other layer modes but it still does not give me the effect that I'm looking for.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI recently lost a pet and want to use a photo of her as a tribute. What I'd like to do is to crop a heart shape of her face and layer that into a white background. The question I have is: how on earth do you draw a perfect heart using the lasso?
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow to edit a solid with opening a hole only one face and deleting an another face..
I added a drawing file which has a coloured face solid,I put a circle on blue face and making a hole on this face,and I want to delete red face without exploding solid,after all this I want to mesh this solid with maximum 25 units.
There is any option to merge bottom face of pad eye and pipe curved face... Something like
1. Extrude face to a surface or
2. like notch option available in frame generator ?
N:B - pad eye is made by extrusion and pipe made by frame generator.
All I need to do is merge a circular face to a flat face, so both faces become one continuous face. Is this possible at all?
I have a attached a screenshot to show what I mean. Face 1 needs to be merged with face 2. This is so if I constrain anything to that face it will constrain to the entire face and not either the circular face OR the flat face.
Is there a way to use PRESSPULL on a face that's behind or underneath another face. When I use PRESSPULL it always selects the face on top and sometimes I want a face that is behind or underneath that face.
View 3 Replies View Relatedhow to put someones face onto another persons face.
View 3 Replies View Relatedcreat roof with same line on top roof face & roof vertical side face?
View 2 Replies View Relatedtrying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
why i have billions little light spots all over my picture ( render ) ? I also notice when put only one material ( vraymat) i dont have little light spots.
I used vray.vraylight ( sun ). vrayphysical camera.
Running LR5 on Win7, I can't see "Visualize Spots." I select the Spot Removal tool, but the Visualize Spots option does not appear below the preview. I can turn it on with the "A" keyboard shortcut, and the display does change to show the tool in action, but I still don't see the tool displayed below the preview (therefore, I can't adjust the strength). I do have the "Tool Overlay" option selected to show, and I don't see any other view setting or preference option that appears to affect it.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've got a hatching problem...whenever I try to use a "dot" hatching...at a scale of 50.000....I tend to get this wierd white spots on different areas...and it seems to flush with the MLeaders...(See Attached Image).
View 4 Replies View RelatedSpot syncing with "no" spots is not working in Lr5.3 (did not work in 5.2 either)
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and sync the "NON" spotting to a target photo that has spotting, the spotting is not cleared as it should be on the target photo.
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and put ONE new spot in the source photo and sync this ONE spot to a target photo that has spotting, all the spotting is removed from the target photo and the ONE spot is the only one in the target photo as expected.
Shouldn't the sync of spotting always work the same, with or without spotting in the source photo?
I think this should be considered a bug or at least a design flaw. OSX 10.8.5 LR5.3
Since today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
Video drivers are up to date.
Mode =rgb color - 8bit
What would be the best way to get rid of the white spots on the attached photo?
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