I`m using photoshop 6 and recently i installed nik collection software, but now i have a problem. When i open a picture with the plug-in there are a lot of blue spots on it... i was told that the problem is not in the plug in .... i tried different versions of that plug in and nothing worked.
View 1 RepliesI have a ~8.1MP image that I want to get printed on a pretty large scale. However, there are a few spots on the image that I am going to need to remove.
(Picture file here.)
There are 4 large black spots (circled) that I am sure should not be there. I am pretty sure they were smudges on the camera lens, because I have the entire set of images that was shot in this same jump, and those 4 spots are in the same place in all of them.
However, there are also a lot of white-ish spots scattered about the upper half of the image that seem to be mainly near the ends of the "sun-star effect" (which is one of the coolest parts of this picture, IMO). They don't seem to be present in the other pictures from the set, but perhaps they are also lens smudges and only show up in this one because there is such bright light hitting the lens, making them noticeable.
Are the white spots part of the attractive sun-star and should stay?
Are they smudges on the lens and should go?
Are they part of the sun-star but should go regardless because they don't look good?
Does the sun-star even look good or am I crazy?
Bonus question #1 - Are the red, yellow, and blue "hexagons" (noob terminology here) attractive? I kind of like them, but what do photo pros think of these things? Lens flares, they're called, right?
Bonus question #2 - Should I make the image brighter, so more color in the jumpers and their suits can be seen? Or should it remain this dark, since it is in fact a silhouette?
Before I spend the $25 to make a poster-sized print for my wall, I want to make sure I get the image looking good. The 4 black spots, I think I could probably remove without too much hassle (limited Photoshop skills here). But the white spots would be harder I think... for one thing there are many of them, and for another they occupy the same space as the sun-star, which I don't want to screw up.
I do it all the time in illustrator but how do you repeat something in photoshop to create a pattern. Here is a mockup of an example. How would you create this in Photoshop?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI mistakenly created a collection when only one file was highlighted. I made another collection with all the other files I wanted in it, but I can't drag that one file from the filmstrip..
View 4 Replies View RelatedIf I specify a smart collection rule that says the source must be a collection matching some pattern, does this only apply to actual collections and exclude collection sets?
I was hoping fo a way to build a rule based on the collection set ... is this possible?
I also tried matching Any Searchable Text set to the collection set name, but that doesn't seem to work...wouldn't all photos in the collection set be associated with that string? Looks like no.
There used to be a way I thought that you could submit a new thread after doing a question search. That seems to be gone.
Is there a way to convert a collection to a smart collection?
I am using NextGEN to export images to WordPress. NextGEN created Publishing collections in Lightroom to match those in my WordPress blog. My problem is that they are not Smart Collections.
i have 1000 eps files to work with and i dont have the time to go to each one and change the color from blue to black! all are different shapes so i need a batch command that will keep the white, white and change any other color to black!
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm using PSE 11 on a MacBook Pro. My Blue Skies have too much green in them for my preference. I'm sure there is a way to change this, but how? Also, can I change the default 'blue skies' to something more to my liking for a long-lasting remedy?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to create a new collection but I find that I do not have a "Set collection as target" (or whatever the correct phrase is, since I don't have it.) I have right clicked and examined all menu options.
View 6 Replies View RelatedWhat are the rules for how elements (specifically, collections and other collection sets) are ordered within a collection set?
I was trying to get a collection to appear at the top of the list of items in a collection set, but it seems to get stuffed below all the other collection sets regardless of the name given to the collection.
Ok so i have this image (Attached) im trying to remove the blue rectangle and the white rectangle leaving the blue swirl on the white back ground, iv tried using content aware but it comes out really bad, maybe im doing it wrong will some one be able to look at this for me, maybe it came out wrong because i have the blue swirl and content aware doesn't work correctly with it .
View 7 Replies View RelatedI'm running Windows 7 64Bit running Adobe CS5 Master Collection. But ever since I allowed CS5 Photoshop to control my printer (HP Photosmart Prem 310-C) to do a test print of a graphic that I created all of my Blues print a violet/blue color, no matter what color blue. It has even affected MS Word & MS Project when I try to print blue colored font or Gantt Chart blues will no longer print blue, but will print the same blue/violet color. I've even tried a brilliant blue which will all view great, but prints the same shade of violet blue! All my colors and Blues will view great! I've calibrated my monitor and I've reset my printer several times and still the same thing! I never had this problem before I downloaded Adobe CS5! A strange thing is that I can run check printer test and the data & image that is stored in the printer will print blues perfect, including running a copy direct from the scanner bed and it will produce perfect blues. I almost feel as though Adobe CS5 has possessed my PC and printer, how do I get it back to printing like it did before installing CS5 Master Suite?
View 2 Replies View Relatedtrying to get CS4 Design Premium to install. I finally managed, with the considerable help of a tier three Support Engineer. Since then I've had about a week's exposure to Photoshop CS4. Here's a list of things I don't like and/or those that don't work:
1) Program always crashes when I try to save a GIF file or try to use any of the new 3D tools.
2) I like two-across tool palette. When I drag workspace to left, it covers up this palette.
3) I like to leave three palettes open on the right, History, Characters and Layers. For no earthly reason that I can fathom the Layers palette has gotten considerably wider, and it cannot be reduced horizontally. Oh yes, I could reduce these three to icons, but then I'd be constantly clicking to open them and clicking to close them.
4) Open palettes have foreground precedence. This means that when I try to enlarge my workspace to the right, the workspace scroll bar disappears underneath the palettes.
5) The essentials button is destructive. I found this out the hard way when I clicked it and it wiped out a newly customized workspace. Now I know to save my customized workspace immediately upon completion.
6) Why did Adobe add the Adjustments button. It just creates an extra step when making adjustments. CS3 was smart enough to pop up the correct controls when adjustments were being made. Example: create New Adjustment Layer > Threshold. On my copy of CS4, I have to click Adjustments before the control shows up.
7) The new toolbar (at top of screen) wastes considerable space and is not deselectable. Hint courtesy of Support: Save your custom workspace with a very short name 2-3 characters; then this toolbar will combine with the menu bar.
8) Scrolling through highly magnified images is abysmally slow - much slower than it was on CS3.
9) The clone brush is less accurate in CS4, and it doesn't always turn off when one is finished cloning.
10) None of my CS4 files installed with responsive, indexed Help files. Now, every Help request sends me to a sluggish web site where there are no indices, poorly organized information, and in some cases just a message that Help area is under development.
11) I haven't been able to get the Patch tool to work correctly.
12) When program crashes (not always while attempting to save GIFs or 3D), it does so with generic, uninformative error message. In one week, I have had more Photoshop CS4 crashes than I ever experienced during the lifetime of CS3.
13) Why did the installer leave 34 superfluous language items (ones in anything other than US English in my case) in both the Legal and Lmresources folders? The product is bloated enough without oversights like that.
How many more will I find during the next week? I don't know, but I'm sure there are more to be found. How many of those that I did notice are due to the dreadful suite installer? I don't know the answer to that one either, but I suspect the installer may well have played a role.
I'm sure many will disagree, but IMHO Photoshop CS4's user interface is godawful compared to its predecessors. I can't find a single thing that can be accomplished with less mouse activity or keystrokes than earlier versions, but I have found quite a few things that demand more.
I was fortunate enough to have my installation issues addressed by one of Adobe's top support engineers. Had it not been for that, I'm reasonably certain I'd still be trying to install CS4. I've been using Photoshop since version 3, and the Creative Suites going back to the first one. This is the first time I've ever felt that quality assurance was completely ignored for the sake of meeting a self-imposed release schedule.
As I remarked in one of my earlier email exchanges with Adobe support, "I wish that every software Product Manager would study the reasons why Vista and Office 2007 have gotten such lukewarm receptions." I'm afraid the CS4 team didn't learn from Microsoft's mistakes.
why i have billions little light spots all over my picture ( render ) ? I also notice when put only one material ( vraymat) i dont have little light spots.
I used vray.vraylight ( sun ). vrayphysical camera.
Running LR5 on Win7, I can't see "Visualize Spots." I select the Spot Removal tool, but the Visualize Spots option does not appear below the preview. I can turn it on with the "A" keyboard shortcut, and the display does change to show the tool in action, but I still don't see the tool displayed below the preview (therefore, I can't adjust the strength). I do have the "Tool Overlay" option selected to show, and I don't see any other view setting or preference option that appears to affect it.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've got a hatching problem...whenever I try to use a "dot" hatching...at a scale of 50.000....I tend to get this wierd white spots on different areas...and it seems to flush with the MLeaders...(See Attached Image).
View 4 Replies View RelatedSpot syncing with "no" spots is not working in Lr5.3 (did not work in 5.2 either)
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and sync the "NON" spotting to a target photo that has spotting, the spotting is not cleared as it should be on the target photo.
If I reset the spotting on a source photo and put ONE new spot in the source photo and sync this ONE spot to a target photo that has spotting, all the spotting is removed from the target photo and the ONE spot is the only one in the target photo as expected.
Shouldn't the sync of spotting always work the same, with or without spotting in the source photo?
I think this should be considered a bug or at least a design flaw. OSX 10.8.5 LR5.3
Since today i've gotten some problems with CS6..When i import an NEF file into photoshop some photo's suddenly get some black area's.On bridge or Gimp the photo's are how they should be... but in photoshop i'm getting this:
If i change the channel mode from 8bit to 32bit it looks just fine... but i cant edit anything..It will probably be an setting i've missed or something.. but i'm really stuck, i cant finish my pictures in photoshop!
Video drivers are up to date.
Mode =rgb color - 8bit
What would be the best way to get rid of the white spots on the attached photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need to turn a B&W photo into screen print art without using a line screen (just block colours) - essentially I'm creating a 3 colour black and white images using:
- PANTONE 4625 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 6 C
- PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C
Using a bunch of techniques (unsharp mask, tritone and posterize) I have line art that looks great with a posterize level of 4. But I've noticed that Photoshop is using my Tritone colours to mix itself an extra tone - and if I switch to a level of 3, Photoshop chooses to remove the level that PANTONE Warm Gray 1 C uses which deletes all the highlight detail.
Is there a way I can specify colours that Posterize uses?Or is there a different approch I can use to split the tones into the ones in the Tritone?
I've tried playing with the curves in the Tritone window to try and influence the colours photoshop uses (so no colour mixing) but maybe I need to somehow save the Tritone layers into the channels pallate?
I took some pictures outside recently and when I looked at them later realized there were sun spots on them. I have Coral Paint Shop Pro x2 and how to remove this sun spots so I can salvage the pictures. Some of the spots are yellowish color and some are white. They are all on peoples legs so I have not been able to find a way to remove them. I have tried the cloning but it looks funny. I have also tried creating a new layer and removing the color yellow from the picture but that doesnt seem to work either.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have thousands scans of text (greyscale TIFFs on white background) that need cleaning up. Each scan has tiny black spots throughout the page, which cause unacceptably "dirty" prints. The only method I know is to select areas between text manually and hit the delete key - which takes about 30 mins per page! There must be a way to select an entire page and remove black spots of a certain size in one hit.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI had a picture of a 10 year old, I want to use photoshop to make the 10 year old in the photo look 60... i want to add wrinkles, age spots, yellow the teeth, thin the lips... etc...
View 2 Replies View RelatedI just got a freelance job cleaning/sharpening and generally making beautimous, about 100 deep sea photos...all was going according to plan, when I came upon a large group that, as soon as I brought the levels up, along came these horrific sprays of water spotting, that I have no idea how to deal with. I don't think there's a way to make it look real if I use a tool like the clone or bandaid, and I tried working in LAB mode, to see if there was any way I could make a difference with the gaussian blur, but that did nothing, and that may just have been hopefull. I can't remove the guys background, and I know there are some extra softwear programs that work with spotting etc. but in this case I can't see how they would work and still keep the picture sharp..?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI guess one way to do it would be to capture the color of my facial skin, then paintbrush the area over with that color. But how do i do that? or do you have a better method?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm new to Gimp - I've had it installed on my computer for a while now but haven't tried to use it because it's got so many features it was just - well, intimidating. But now I've started a big scanning project involving a lot of old family photos, and as you can imagine they're not all in good shape. So I have some repairs to do.
The first one I scanned turned out pretty nice, but the second one is challenging me. It dates from about the 1920s and looks kind of sepia-toned but I had to scan it in gray shades because of a kind of moire pattern at the bottom (it's mounted on a piece of thick cardboard which is bowed and I had trouble getting it to lay flat on the scanner bed, so maybe that's why). The black-and-white image that resulted actually looks better than the sepia, but there are a lot of water spots in the upper left corner. Some of them are really large and in many different shades of gray, which is making it almost impossible for me to fix them using the cloning tool. I thought about just copying and pasting from a better section, but all those different gray shades mean that didn't work very well either. I can crop some of them out, but not all, and besides, the cropping changes the composition of the photo, and not in a good way.
Obviously I don't have great skills with this software (although I'm thinking that might be different by the time I get this project finished ). FYI, the version I have is 2.6.11, which is probably old; I could update if necessary. And it's running in Windows XP SP3.
See the image.
remove dust spots out of a shot? Is there any easy way to do it?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have installed lightroom 5.3 on my desktop at home (upgrading from 5.2 and previous versions all the way back to V1). I do not get the menu showing visualize spots which is VERY frustrating since it will be a very useful tool. I ahve also installed 5.2 on my laptop and here I do get the tool.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat could be the reason that the dialog "visualize spots", which usually appears under the images after clicking the healing brush option, does not show up in LR5?? I have re-installed LR5 on my iMac but that did not work. After installing LR5 on my MacBook Air the dialog was there! How can this be? Are there any special settings which I have not considered yet?I know the shortcut is "A" and this one works, but then I have no slider.
View 1 Replies View RelatedAfter downloading the 5.3 LR upgrade I expected to have "visualize spots" below my image when using the spot remove tool. It is not there. Is there a menu option to bring it into view, or is there something wrong. (Mac mavericks 10.9 on MacBook Pro Retina)
View 4 Replies View RelatedI was happily using the Visualize Spots option, but now it's vanished! I can't find it anywhere.
View 3 Replies View Related