I'm printing to an Epson 9900 using Lightroom 3.6.
I want to print an array of 4 x 6 images. The prints come out 3.5 x 5.25. Attempting to print a 5 x 7 produces and image reduced by the same scaling.
I also tried with Photoshop CS5, printing just a single 4 x 6 and that also came out strangely.
This is on a Mac OS X 10.7 Lion.
I am a Pro Photographer, and have been printing via Photoshop for years, and am trying to print to my Epson 9900 through LR3.
Workflow is simple, Nikon .nef (Raw) files are imported into LR3 - all monitors are calibrated w/ pro-grade color management colorimeters/software ....
Everything looks great on screen, and the TIF files exported and picked up in Photoshop and then printed, look great.
However, my files printed directly from LR look horrible - as if color profiles are being applied twice somewhere, but I can't figure out where.
Images are shot in AdobeRGB color space.
Color management in the Epson 9900 print driver is turned OFF. (same as every other program I print from)
My LR3 screen for printing looks like this:
I've been trying to print full bleed images to 3880 epson printer from LR 4.1 and for some reason won't let me make 8.5 x11 borderless prints to printer. both the left and right side of image has white borders and top and bottom has none.
both page grids sides go as low as 1 and cell size reads properly of 11.00in x 8.50in. but when you look at image in print mode in LR- it shows white borders on both sides of picture.
been on phone for 3 hrs with adobe and 30 min with epson tech to no avail?
I cannot print photogrpaic images with my desktop MAC (OS X10.8.4) from Photoshop Elements 9.0 to my new Epson XP-800 printer. Printing is not a problem with Word text or images from iPhoto- it is only with PSE that there is a problem. The problem persists even if I try using a cabled connection rather than WiFi. I have ensured latest software from Epson has been downloaded. This problem did not occur when using the same system with the previous printer (Epson Photo Stylus 1290).
Any workaround of moving the edited PSE image back to iPhoto & printing from there (which admittedly does work but shouldn't be necessary).
Using PS Elements 10 on my Mac OS 10.6 I cannot import images from my Epson CX 7450 scanner. Have had no such problem with PS Elements 8. When I select file, import, the options are limited and the scanner is not listed.
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View 1 Replies View RelatedUsing LR 4 print module, 4x6 works fine, but changing to 8x10 still gives me a small print either in the middle of an 8.5x11 sheet or in the upper right corner.
I am using the 8x10 template so the cell shows 8x10, and in page settings I am using US letter (8.5x11) paper, zoom to fill. The image is cropped, but that shouldn't matter, right? It looks fine on screen.
It printed correctly when I printed with PS Elements, but I want to use LR.
Tried attaching a screen shot but that didn't work either.
I can't seem to figure out a problem I'm having trying to print using ABW mode on my Epson 3880 from LR5.3 - it is greyed out an inaccessible. I'm familiar with the safety net that precludes double color management when LR is set to print with a profile. But even when I have output set to "Managed By Printer" I still can't access ABW. It's grayed out. What am I missing here?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI want to print custom size photo with LR4 and my Epson R2880, Epson driver v8.27, on OS X 10.8.4. In LR4 Print Module I set the cell size slightly smaller than an 8x10 (same aspect ratio but smaller by about 0.5 inch on both sides) on a Letter size paper. In the Epson driver I have tried all sort of options but no matter what I try, the print always come out exactly 8x10.
View 4 Replies View Relatedhow to print A3 size borderless portriat using Epson R1500W. I've got this printer 2 days ago and still can not figure aout how to do it. I've got few mm blank in either side of lenght wise.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm using LR4 current version on a Lion machine (also current version) - IMAC 27" (also current version) with an Epson 9880 printer. Currently trying this with the Lion driver and version 6.1.2 Epson profiles. I've also tried this with the most recent Snow Leopard driver with the same results. The profiles are not showing up in the "other" dialog within LR4. They do show up in printer setup. I also have a 4800 here and that is working fine. I notice that the Color Sync utility is not displaying them. I've tried downloading and reinstalling, restarting, etc. - no change. I don't recall this being a problem with LR3.
I have been using the Snow Leopard profiles because of the problems associated with the shaded color/BW print dialog in the Lion printer dialogs, for what that's worth, and I thought everything was fine but now,
The subtitle should be "How do I choose the best profile without wasting a lot of time and paper?"
I have an Epson R3000 using Epson premium glossy paper. I am printing from Lightroom (and Photoshop). My understanding has been that the best color match would come from using the Epson appropriate paper profile and letting LR manage the color. However, my output, especially for skin tones had a distinct magenta color cast and really looked terrible. I spent a few hours rechecking settings and making test prints to confirm settings such as turning off color management in the printer. Finally, I called Adobe support. They were very useful and by changing the printer profile from Epson 'spr premium glossy' to my monitor (which is calibrated) profile, I actually get output that matches my screen pretty well. The bothersome part is that I came away with a new understanding that I now have to experiment with profiles when printing.
This is contrary to my earlier understanding that Epson and LR do all the experimentation and that by using the Epson printer, paper and matching profiles I can get reliable color matched output from LR. There must be a reason that printer and paper manufacturers go to the trouble of developing profiles. how to choose the appropriate profile when printing? There is the further question of the best output to send to a professional printer. Should I just set to sRGB?
I'm using Lightroom 3.6 and an Epson Stylus Photo R800. This printer is capable of printing very high quality pictures, as I know by using it for almost 5 years. I have bought Lightroom about 6 month ago. I have tried anything I can think off to get those fabulus pictures out of my Epson printer. I alterd color managment settings, changed print resolutions, downloaded new printerdriver, ... Nothing works. Print quality when printing from Lightroom is very poor. Bad colors (dark), stripes over the whole image, it looks like nothing realy. One of the things that I noticed is that the maximum resolution for printing in LR is 720 ppi. My Epson is capable of 1550 ppi. I see a lot of discussion going about print quality with lightroom... I think however this is a more basic problem. My print qualiti is realy very very bad...
Note, When I export a picture to .jpg format (I shoot in RAW only), and print this directly from Windows, I do get the perfect picture a was used to... I cannot believe that Lightroom is unable to do the same.
Just got an epson 3880 printer. Printing on epson paper is fine. But printing on Ilford or Moab or other papers from lightroom and photoshop have a terrible magenta color cast. WHen I print the same image from Preview, with the same print driver settings, it looks fine. So somehow the adobe apps (or my settings) are messing up the color sync. I used to have an espon 2400 which worked just fine.
I have Mac OSX-10.9.1. Monitor is calibrated. (Prints to epson paper with their profiles look great...it's just other profiles that are really bad).
I am trying to print on photo paper from Ligthroom 4 with the Epson DX8400 printer, on Windows 8. Yet I can't change the paper type. Is it possible that Lightroom doesn't like Windows 8 or is more likely that my printer doesn't like Windows 8?The screenshot shows all that I am offered in the porperties section
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Since the printer works with every other program on my computer, including Elements, it must be a Lightroom problem.
Can I zoom more precisely than just by clicking with the zoom tool?
I have photographs of a medical patient. I want to accurately measure certain medical features, to see if they are getting larger or smaller over time. I figure that I can use guide lines to measure - but that would require me to have each photo starting out as the same scale, and that's why I need to be able to accurately zoom.
I suppose I could resize, but that would seem to take a very large amount of trail and error. If I can zoom arbitrarily, I believe I can use layers with top-layer alpha = 50% or so, and match any two photos to each other.
Or is there a better way altogether? It's not feasible for me to have each photo be natively as the same size/distance as every other, so I have to adjust the photos themselves.
I have a map and I;m trying to scale it accurately on an A1 sheet. I know Illustrator scales according to papper units or how the image appears on the paper. I know for instance that on A1 one line will be 8 mm long, but how to I scale the whole image according to that?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have an image with lots of colors. I was wondering how could I select all the greens in the image.
The problem is:
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I am trying to use film of actors to match the lips for the characters. I am struggling because rendering is taking a few hours (1050 frames in scene 1) and when I get the final product I am seeing things that I need to go back and change. Scrubbing the timeline does not seem to be very accurate..... and this brings me to question 2. I am using film, brought into 3ds max as an image sequence and put as a material onto a plane in the background (then I hide it for rendering).
I am using scanline renderer, but I would have thought that quicksilver or iray would have been faster, they seem to be taking forever...
There are two characters, both have bitmap skin images and are wearing shirts using a bitmap image. The background is Alpha and that is it, there is one spotlight (I would like more but I have read that lights take lots of rendering time)
So, Question 1- Is there a better way to preview a scene - I am trying to get natural looking movement for characters and failing (I only have film of faces for lips)
Question 2- Can I improve my rendering speed?
Question 3 - Am I using reference film correctly?
i can't accurately reposition lines at 1000% zoom. even in preview mode. I tried it in cs5 and it works fine. installed an update in cs6 but still the same.
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Snap to grid does not work and there is no coordinates available for setting or am I missing something again.
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Smoke 2012 SAP2 SP4
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Say I have an editable patch cube. Is there a way to accurately Fillet the edges of the cube while it's a patch?
I need to use patch modeling so I can convert to nurbs for IGES export. I really don't want to convert to an editable poly at any point in the process because it adds so many extra patches when I convert it back.
When I use the measure tool on a block I have (3rd party file) of a carpet, it measures 187.5 x 444 (units are cm).
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When I copy-and-paste the block and EXPLODE it a bunch of times, only THEN does it measure accurately (187.5 x 360).
How can I get it to measure accurately from the beginning?
After cropping a photo to 4x6 it displays as 3.5 x 7 This makes the photo distorted. How do I fix the display to be accurate? People look shorter and fatter?
View 8 Replies View RelatedA client has sent me files created in a version newer than CS5. When I import them and the PDF objects are re-interpreted I get an error message that, during "An unknown imaging construct was encountered." The resulting images have gradients that are extremely bandedb - though I do not know if this is atributable to the error.
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