I have a map and I;m trying to scale it accurately on an A1 sheet. I know Illustrator scales according to papper units or how the image appears on the paper. I know for instance that on A1 one line will be 8 mm long, but how to I scale the whole image according to that?
View 1 Repliesi can't accurately reposition lines at 1000% zoom. even in preview mode. I tried it in cs5 and it works fine. installed an update in cs6 but still the same.
View 2 Replies View RelatedIf I draw a box in illustrator and fill it with pms 180 it's bright orange. When I do the same thing in photoshop it's red (which is much closer to the actual color). I've synched all of my color settings in bridge but that doesn't make any difference. When I copy the image from illustrator and paste it into photoshop it's still orange. And when I save it as a pdf or export it as a jpeg, it's still orange. I can make it look red in illustrator by switching to overprint preview, but that doesn't do my any good. When I send this file to my client.
View 4 Replies View RelatedA client has sent me files created in a version newer than CS5. When I import them and the PDF objects are re-interpreted I get an error message that, during "An unknown imaging construct was encountered." The resulting images have gradients that are extremely bandedb - though I do not know if this is atributable to the error.
The client insists that he is a highly-experienced Illustrator guru, his files are perfect and he will not change them in any way. He has also delcared that it is quite impossible (for him) to convert his artwork to TIFF files. I am able to do this with the files he has provided quite easily, and do not understand what his issue(s) might be.
Assuming that I am the weak link in the chain, what can I do to improve the quality of his images with the software - CS5 - I have?
Im working for a geological firm that use timescales to describe their work (depths at times etc). I need to compress the time bar but not alter the text but cant find way to do it. Im only scaling in 1 direction.
View 4 Replies View RelatedCan I zoom more precisely than just by clicking with the zoom tool?
I have photographs of a medical patient. I want to accurately measure certain medical features, to see if they are getting larger or smaller over time. I figure that I can use guide lines to measure - but that would require me to have each photo starting out as the same scale, and that's why I need to be able to accurately zoom.
I suppose I could resize, but that would seem to take a very large amount of trail and error. If I can zoom arbitrarily, I believe I can use layers with top-layer alpha = 50% or so, and match any two photos to each other.
Or is there a better way altogether? It's not feasible for me to have each photo be natively as the same size/distance as every other, so I have to adjust the photos themselves.
I have an image with lots of colors. I was wondering how could I select all the greens in the image.
The problem is:
- by "all the greens" I mean even those colors that have in their RGB values, Green as little as 1, even those need to be caught in the selection.
I am trying to use film of actors to match the lips for the characters. I am struggling because rendering is taking a few hours (1050 frames in scene 1) and when I get the final product I am seeing things that I need to go back and change. Scrubbing the timeline does not seem to be very accurate..... and this brings me to question 2. I am using film, brought into 3ds max as an image sequence and put as a material onto a plane in the background (then I hide it for rendering).
I am using scanline renderer, but I would have thought that quicksilver or iray would have been faster, they seem to be taking forever...
There are two characters, both have bitmap skin images and are wearing shirts using a bitmap image. The background is Alpha and that is it, there is one spotlight (I would like more but I have read that lights take lots of rendering time)
So, Question 1- Is there a better way to preview a scene - I am trying to get natural looking movement for characters and failing (I only have film of faces for lips)
Question 2- Can I improve my rendering speed?
Question 3 - Am I using reference film correctly?
How does one set the text column width accurately?
Snap to grid does not work and there is no coordinates available for setting or am I missing something again.
I tried different things, like pixel spread, shrink, etc but I don't seem to get a better key than in my screenshot...."I know there is a way in Autodesk Smoke that you can use to paint the hue underneath your faded image. Its called the wash paint if I'm correct."
I don't know how that should work though.... how to get rid off the white edges but keep the blur?
Smoke 2012 SAP2 SP4
and
Smoke 2013 SP2 (Smoke Classic Keyboard Shortcuts)
Mac Pro 4,1
OS X 10.6.7
12 GB RAM
NVIDIA Quadro 4000
14 TB RAID (Areca)
Say I have an editable patch cube. Is there a way to accurately Fillet the edges of the cube while it's a patch?
I need to use patch modeling so I can convert to nurbs for IGES export. I really don't want to convert to an editable poly at any point in the process because it adds so many extra patches when I convert it back.
When I use the measure tool on a block I have (3rd party file) of a carpet, it measures 187.5 x 444 (units are cm).
However, we know that's not the real measurement! On our printed sets it measures differently.
When I copy-and-paste the block and EXPLODE it a bunch of times, only THEN does it measure accurately (187.5 x 360).
How can I get it to measure accurately from the beginning?
After cropping a photo to 4x6 it displays as 3.5 x 7 This makes the photo distorted. How do I fix the display to be accurate? People look shorter and fatter?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI'm printing to an Epson 9900 using Lightroom 3.6.
I want to print an array of 4 x 6 images. The prints come out 3.5 x 5.25. Attempting to print a 5 x 7 produces and image reduced by the same scaling.
I also tried with Photoshop CS5, printing just a single 4 x 6 and that also came out strangely.
This is on a Mac OS X 10.7 Lion.
For some reason when I make a selection using CTRL+Click it never fully matches the cutout of the layer I am mimicking. There is always trim. I've posted a picture to best describe what is happening.
Fig A.
I've made a cutout using the background eraser. Because of this you can see how the cutout appears to be somewhat transparent around the edge.
Fig B.
When placed on 50% gray the hair trim is as detailed as I wanted. It's a satisfying result.
Fig C.
I now make a selected of this semi transparent cutout by cimply CTRL+Clicking the layer.
Fig D.
I now duplicate the original (not cutout) and use this selection to cutout again (don't ask why) but the cutout doesn't match 100%. It's close, but it simply doesn't match. I've also tried using this selection to make a mask on the non cutout image and the edge is exactly the same.
I thought some auto anti-alias may be turned on but I can't seem to find anything. I really need a duplicate of this cutout to match precisely.
Since recent upgrade to win 8 from 7 HP printer will not accurately print from Photosmart 7.0.1
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen creating a tile to make a seamless pattern, how I can accurately place an ornament in the four corners so that when the pattern is applied as a fill everything matches together perfectly.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am working with a client who works in CATIA V5 and I am in Autocad 2012. Is there any software out there that can accurately convert, in both directions, both 2D and 3D drawings?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to import an excel table into AC as an AC entity with a datalink so I can update the excel file. However the AC entities import looks like a disaster! (see picture)
How can I import it in a way that will more accurately maintain more of the formatting of Excel? I'd rather not use the MS spreadsheet import because then it looks distractingly unnatural...
I imagine there isn't really a solid answer for what I'm trying to do, just looking for some tips and tricks to make it slip in a bit better
Untitled.jpg
Been working on my bands logo that has 2 layers on it. One has layer effects on it (inner and outer glow). When I flatten the image, it changed the way that it looked. Found out that it just "looks" like it changes because my canvas wasn't at 100%. I have to zoom out to about 25% to be able to see the whole image and work on it.
Is there any way to accurately see my whole image on the canvas and what the layer effects will actually look like? The way it works now, how the image will change once I flatten it. Being zoomed out makes what I'm actually viewing on the screen to be wrong it seems.
I attached 2 images, (Both are at 25%) the first one is what I'm looking at on screen BEFORE I flatten the image. This is what I want my actual image to look like. The second is AFTER I flatten the image. Notice the inner/outer glow gets smaller. I tried to just increase the size of the glows to compensate once I flatten it since I noticed that they were basically just shrinking. This doesn't really work though and I lose the noise effect on the white outer glow.
How am I supposed to work on the image and see what it looks like as a whole if zooming out doesn't show what the image will ACTUALLY look like?
I was going down the list of a few thousand web photos that we use on the company site, resetting levels via the Tone Curve in Paint X3 to make them more legible and uniform, when I noticed something odd.
The filesize that Paint indicates will result from a particular jpg compression level does not match what the Windows XP file folder indicates. Usually the discrepancy is only a couple K, but it can be much more and there seems to be no rhyme or reason to it.
I will load a jpg that is shown in windows as 12K, adjust the tone curve to match other product photos, then go to save, adjusting the compression while watching the Paint claim for resulting file size. Let's say that Paint is claiming 6.7K at compression of 14. When I actually do the save, it shows up as several K different, usually bigger - say 10K. How is it that Paint is so consistently off in this?
Is there a quick 'n easy way to scale a whole document in CS6?Right now, I select all, use the scale tool, option-click, type in a percentage, then resize the artboard. Just wondering if I'm missing something to do it all in fewer steps?
Also, any way to scale by other unit besides percentage? So I have a shape that's 374 pixels across. I want to scale it proportionally to 800 pixels across. (traditionally, I just whip out the ol' proportional alegbra equation to convert to percentage)
I have a ready drawing but I just noticed that it is a bit to small: is there a way to scale everything (objects, grid, artboard) except the thickness of the strocks and arrowhead if any?
I can do all this separately (objects, then grid, then artboard) but it would be nicer to scale everything at once.
I used the live trace object on a graphic, expanded it to select objects and change the color. Every time I make a selection it goes into gray scale. I will switch the color settings back to cmyk and as soon as I make a selection again its back in gray scale.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI do not know if this is something weird with Creative Cloud, but I use Illustrator A LOT to do art. Recently, I noticed that if I take a complex shape with angles and curves that I make with the pen tool, and I Ctrl+C, and Ctrl+F it will, like normal, stack the items directly on top of one another, or I can edit copy, and edit paste in place/ in front, etc. So, I have two of the same shape exactly on top of one another. For my example we change the bottom shape to a different color to make it show up when we scale it, and go up and transform the bottom shape bigger, by clicking transform, scale- lets say to 110%. My problem is now the items seem to be touching and overlapping in places on the edge. They seem to no longer have the same center spot aligned with one another, and I never moved either shape. i just scaled one. I just noticed this the other day, and like I said, I make pattern art in illustrator all the time. It doesn't happen if you do this with a circle or a square or a star, just strange shapes you create with the pen tool with lots of points.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhen I scale my artwork I have scale strokes and effects checked but the effects dont appear to be scaling. They look as though they arent even there at all after the scale. Am i missing something?
View 35 Replies View RelatedI'd like to scale a brush stroke. How do I do this?
Left is original stroke Right is resized by pressing shift then pulling box to upper right.
I found on the forum to tick preferences - scale strokes & effects but still not working?
I am current CC subscriber and love all the different programs and the capabilities that come along with it. How to scale my artwork. For example, I have designed my business logo at 220 x 220 pixels. When I export it as a jpeg file to upload into my SharePoint team site and resize it, the quality diminishes considerably. Sharepoint recommends uploading a picture that is approximately 60 x 60 pixels. how do I take my 220 x 220 artwork and make it so that when I export it, it is 60 x 60 pixels?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIm having problem with scale in an action im making, it just wont apply
I cant work it out, here is my code
For this demo i have set to 50x50% scale to
/version 3
/name [ 10
43617365204d616b6572
]
[Code]....
I am trying to add text to my scanned watercolor illustrations for a childrens book I wrote. I am using Illustrator and I just loaded a jpeg image into illustrator, and it is HUGE! I tried to use the scale tool and I can't figure out how to get the jpeg image to shrink down to fit in the box! All I get is a blue snowflake and also a menu w/ choice of uniform or nonuniform for the scale.
View 2 Replies View RelatedScale tool in my illustrator is not worrking.
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