On your face, there are about 20,000 pores, and if you don’t have perfect skin, it seems like half of them turn into some for of unwanted skin irritation, a blackhead, whitehead, rosecea, dry skin, flaking skin, and probably about 1 dozen other things that I have never heard of. Nobody likes these imperfections in skin, especially on photo day. This lesson is going to show you how to remove blemishes using gimp.
This is easily the best method I have found so far for retouching skin and textures in GIMP. Using wavelet decompose you can work on the different frequencies of features in an image independently and with unparalleled control.
Getting Around in GIMP: Skin Retouching (Wavelet Decompose)
Color print from 1972 with badly faded faces, fuzzy facial features, too. Would like the skin tones to look healthy, tried the wrming filter and got jaundice! I am a beginner with PS, need step by step instructions. You forum angels are the best!
I'm new to Gimp and Ive been told that Gimp has a function similar to Alien Skin Smart Fill. Is this correct and if so where do I find it and what is it called on Gimp
I am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.
Their order is:
Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background.
Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print.
I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3.
In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi. In step 3, I crop only to get the child then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result.
I would like to ask a question about architectural photography lighting and retouching techniques. You can see some sample sites below: URL.....
These photos are very impressive and possibly taken as HDR.The question is; this transformation can be possible just photoshop retouching even using light? It looks like 3D rendering or PS drawing but we don't sure. Is it Photoshop Plug-In or what kind of technique is it?
I often find I need to remove something from a broad gradated area of an image, such as a bill board from a dusk sky. I've always tried to clone the image out, but end up with a mottled area of the sky. If I get it smooth, it seems to have a different texture because I've used a lower opacity in the brush. I've tried replacing the sky with a gradation but blending that at the horizon is always a bit iffy.
We all know the illustration in the glossy car brochure has been enhanced - before Pshop days it was done by film retouches. I admire that work and would like to achieve similar results - making my car photos more like 'glamor' shots or 'studio' shots, starting with pictures of my own vintage car a 1936 Ford.
So far I've struck out on searching the web for techniques specific to this task, probably because I'm not using the best search terms. Automobile glamor retouching, or vehicle retouching was no luck.
Is there a specific name for this kind of retouching/enhancing/studio look? If I had a clue as to whether it's a recognizable trade or specific job I might be able to follow that lead.
Understand, i'm not asking you to do the work, just point me in the right direction.OTOH, if you do know of a site devoted to this I'd be very interested. I do remember completing a lesson in Scott Kelby's earlier 7 point book, where an automobile shot was improved, and that's been useful.
I want to edit in a complete non destructive way, so i work with smart objects and separate blemish removal layers. However, when i double click on my smart object to edit it in camera RAW, after i save the changes, my blemish layer looks like this:
On this particular example, i brought down the exposure on the smart object in camera raw and the corresponding exposure adjustment was not applied to the retouching layer as well. This defeats the whole purpose of making a separate adjustment layer if i have to make a new one every time i make adjustments to to the smart object.
How do I retouch in LR4 on a Mac on selected areas for example in the highlights. It is very easyly done in Aperture 3 but it seems more complicated in LR4. Yes I am new with LR and have installed the Helpfile....but still.
I want to import a photo, trace geometric shapes over the photo like circles and lines, and then remove the photo. I have a very basic understanding of LAYERS. I have viewed a few tutorials. But I don't know how to import a photo or how to get rid of it once I have drawn the geometric shapes over it.
We've encountered a huge problem with some JPEGs we retouched for print.Either directly after opening them in PS or after saving and closing the image (mostly the case) it's getting some kind of horizontal stripes / artifacts. Problem is, sometimes they only appear after saving the image, so we'd have to reopen every one a few times to make sure this error does not occur. Also, the images look abolsutely fine in the preview AND wehen placed in InDesign. Sometimes they're visible in the exported PDF, sometimes they aren't and we eventually find out when the product is already printed.
We're running CS6 on OS X 10.7.5 with newest patches and Updates. All images are HQ stockphotos from familiar sites.
I am interested in building an automated retouching system for a specific form of photography. The system needs to be able to handle a large workflow of images and create a look that is desirable and state of the art. I can see that there are a lot of systems out there that deal with portraiture etc and feel that if we could develop a similar system with actions for the specific work that I shoot it would be great.
I'm trying to restore a photo of my mother's sister that was taken on the day of her high school graduation. It's a group photo but here's the piece showing my aunt's face:
This whole photo had a lot of water (and probably mold) damage but the big problem with this section was that it was stuck to the glass. I managed to soak it off but it tore there, and of course that's exactly the part where my aunt's face was. Fortunately I also have a newspaper clipping showing the same photo:
so I do have a reference to go by. Here's what I'm mainly having trouble with:
1) the figure's left eye (on the right side of the face) - I tried the Clone and Heal tools but it just didn't look good so next I tried copying and pasting the other eye, flipping it horizontally, and rotating it a bit to try to get the angle right (I had to hold a ruler to the screen for that; does GIMP have a way to draw a slanted guide line that could be deleted later?). It's not bad, but it's not great either. That was when I remembered the newspaper clipping. I was going to copy from that, and amazingly they are almost exactly the same size (I measured the height of the face in each one) but being a printed piece it of course has dots and it looks awful when copied and pasted.
2) the skin tones - actually this is a problem with the whole photo; the skin tones range from almost white to very gray (actually all the grays range that way ; it's something I've been working on). But my aunt's face is the worst because it's not consistent, probably because of the tear. I've tried doing a free selection around the face and neck and experimenting with some of the color corrections - Auto Normalize and Equalize, Levels, Curves, Brightness/Contrast - but so far it hasn't worked much.
I can include more pieces, or even the entire photo. I just didn't want to take up any more space; I knew this would be a long post. Just let me know.
i have taken a photo of a car mirror which has the camera in the shot, I want to keep the shape of the wing mirror but replace the reflection with clouds. After scrolling through many you tube videos I can only find cutting selected image and pasting onto a different background, all I need is a white background the shape of the mirrors edge and clouds as reflection within the mirrors edge, can this be done.
I like to put a border on the photo I upload online.These pictures are usually 600 X 400 pixels.A 2 pixels line is just perfect for my use but...it's impossible to have a 2 pixels pencil.You can create a 1 pixels pencil or a 3 pixels pencil but not a 2 pixels one. Why?
At one point, what I was doing is, select all,then shrink the selection by 5 pixels(yes,I like to add the border inside the image)and then use the marching ants as a guide and trace a 3 pixels wide solid line and then erase a 1 pixel line using the eraser but...it's extremely tricky(and time consuming)because there's no real 1 pixel eraser...it's a cross made of 5 pixels and if you're not just at the right spot it erases the thing just bad.
Also,I use to do it by: selecting all, then shrink the selection by 5 pixels and then strike the selection with my chosen pencil but...the damn line is 5 pixels away from the border of the picture on the left side and on top but on the right side and at the bottom,the damn line is only "4 pixels" away.Sure 1 pixel off seems not that much but on a small picture 600 X 400, it shows a lot. How come the selection can't be stricken with an even result?
I am trying to remove the person in the background of the attached image. I believe I have finally installed the resynthesizer plug-in but am not successful in removing the person behind the couple shown.
I want to make a Christmas present spelling out the last name using individual photos of letters (see below). I would like the finished image to be 16x20, and I am going to upload it and have it printed at a photo developing shop. I'm not sure how to set this up in GIMP.
When I set up my new file, how many pixels should I make the new image, if my desired size is 16x20. I'm not sure how many dpi to use when I convert the inches to pixels. I read that 300 dpi is desired.
I was thinking about making image boxes for each letter in one layer and cutting and pasting each letter into the boxes. Is this possible or do I need to make a new layer for each photo?
I have a photo that includes the date the picture was taken on the front of it. The text is in yellow and part of the date covers my suited arm. My question is how can I remove the date, and have the area where the date was reflective of the colors that are in the background (i.e., my suit is gray, so I want the area that the yellow date originally covered, now to appear the same color as my suit.
I have been using GIMP to count the number of birds in a colony by putting a round spot on each bird using the airbrush tool. This works fine as I can size the spot to suit and alter the opacity to leave some detail. But I need to be able to count the number of spots! This should only count the spots and not every time I adjust the viewable part of the photo to keep spotting! An addon to the GIMP program would be wonderful.