I often find I need to remove something from a broad gradated area of an image, such as a bill board from a dusk sky. I've always tried to clone the image out, but end up with a mottled area of the sky. If I get it smooth, it seems to have a different texture because I've used a lower opacity in the brush. I've tried replacing the sky with a gradation but blending that at the horizon is always a bit iffy.
How do I retouch in LR4 on a Mac on selected areas for example in the highlights. It is very easyly done in Aperture 3 but it seems more complicated in LR4. Yes I am new with LR and have installed the Helpfile....but still.
I'm on an old laptop, PS 5.5. I have a properly exposed iso 1800 D600 jpgcaptured in adobe rgb color space.I use camera raw to open this picture in photopro space and 16 bits to avoid banding and yet if I lift the curve a tiny bit or any other brightening trickimmediately there is banding. What?
I've made some lines/paths using a broad 20pt stroke which tapers to a point (using variable width profile). Â is it possible to turn these paths into filled shapes so the paths would become the outer edges of the current stroke? Â using CC
What is the difference between rooms and areas? Why create an area schedule off 'areas' as opposed to using 'room' areas? Can you create a schedule off room areas?
In the image below I have an aerial photo of an Island. I need to make it so as water areas are black and land areas are white (not greyscale) almost like a silhouette. My first plan was to draw round the island with a black paint brush and then use the "bucket fill" with a suitable threshold to fill all of the areas up to the black outline with black, however this doesn't work as the bucket fill either breaks through the black line or when I reduce the threshold, doesn't color the water areas solidly.
I have a drawing (autocad 2011) ,which i have to measure the areas of the many rooms and i arrange these areas in a table! is there any fast way to do so? avoiding the boaring typical area measurements room by room?
I am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.  Their order is:  Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.Â
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background. Â Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print. Â I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3. Â In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi. In step 3, I crop only to get the child then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result. Â What am I missing?
I would like to ask a question about architectural photography lighting and retouching techniques. You can see some sample sites below: URL..... Â These photos are very impressive and possibly taken as HDR.The question is; this transformation can be possible just photoshop retouching even using light? It looks like 3D rendering or PS drawing but we don't sure. Is it Photoshop Plug-In or what kind of technique is it?
We all know the illustration in the glossy car brochure has been enhanced - before Pshop days it was done by film retouches. I admire that work and would like to achieve similar results - making my car photos more like 'glamor' shots or 'studio' shots, starting with pictures of my own vintage car a 1936 Ford.  So far I've struck out on searching the web for techniques specific to this task, probably because I'm not using the best search terms. Automobile glamor retouching, or vehicle retouching was no luck.  Is there a specific name for this kind of retouching/enhancing/studio look? If I had a clue as to whether it's a recognizable trade or specific job I might be able to follow that lead.  Understand, i'm not asking you to do the work, just point me in the right direction.OTOH, if you do know of a site devoted to this I'd be very interested. I do remember completing a lesson in Scott Kelby's earlier 7 point book, where an automobile shot was improved, and that's been useful.
I want to edit in a complete non destructive way, so i work with smart objects and separate blemish removal layers. However, when i double click on my smart object to edit it in camera RAW, after i save the changes, my blemish layer looks like this: Â Â On this particular example, i brought down the exposure on the smart object in camera raw and the corresponding exposure adjustment was not applied to the retouching layer as well. This defeats the whole purpose of making a separate adjustment layer if i have to make a new one every time i make adjustments to to the smart object.
We've encountered a huge problem with some JPEGs we retouched for print.Either directly after opening them in PS or after saving and closing the image (mostly the case) it's getting some kind of horizontal stripes / artifacts. Problem is, sometimes they only appear after saving the image, so we'd have to reopen every one a few times to make sure this error does not occur. Also, the images look abolsutely fine in the preview AND wehen placed in InDesign. Sometimes they're visible in the exported PDF, sometimes they aren't and we eventually find out when the product is already printed. Â We're running CS6 on OS X 10.7.5 with newest patches and Updates. All images are HQ stockphotos from familiar sites.
I am interested in building an automated retouching system for a specific form of photography. The system needs to be able to handle a large workflow of images and create a look that is desirable and state of the art. I can see that there are a lot of systems out there that deal with portraiture etc and feel that if we could develop a similar system with actions for the specific work that I shoot it would be great.
Colours are being over saturated in shaded areas and less saturated in light areas when filled over an aeea. The colours need to remain the same saturation level when darkened or lightened. Is a setting affecting the saturation levels?
On your face, there are about 20,000 pores, and if you don’t have perfect skin, it seems like half of them turn into some for of unwanted skin irritation, a blackhead, whitehead, rosecea, dry skin, flaking skin, and probably about 1 dozen other things that I have never heard of. Nobody likes these imperfections in skin, especially on photo day. This lesson is going to show you how to remove blemishes using gimp.
This is easily the best method I have found so far for retouching skin and textures in GIMP. Using wavelet decompose you can work on the different frequencies of features in an image independently and with unparalleled control.
Getting Around in GIMP: Skin Retouching (Wavelet Decompose)
I'm using CS6 and I can't figure how to Intersect Shape Areas. The website I'm using is saying to use the pathfinder panel which I can't seem to find either.
When I open photos from Lightroom, areas of transparency are showing up at random within the photo. If I convert the Background to a Layer, the problem disappears. Â What is causing this, and how can I prevent it? Win 7 16 gig Ram NVIDIA GT 220 .
What I want to be able to check is the areas of clipping in the shadows and highlights. Now I know Lightroom is very easy in the histogram, having a little warning button that will display when an area is off. What I've come up with so far for Photoshop is that there are only two tools, in the camera raw and in levels. Camera Raw is pretty self-explanitory, but I want to be able to check this in photoshop after I've done some work on the image. So I see that the levels tool you can click and hold on the triangle, and if you press the "Alt" key it will show you what areas are clipped. I'm not sure if I really understand it though, as it shows areas that aren't really clipped, e.g. a slightly darker area of sky is showing as light blue, but not a solid color, as being clipped. What is that? Â I think that from the example above that say the reason the sky is showing a little cyan is that the red channel is being clipped in the dark sky only, and not the other channels. Do I need to be concerned about this for a good quality print? For best display on the web?
I have a document with some quite large areas of colour. This looks nice, but as it needs to be faxed, I'd like to just replace the colour with an outline of the shapes. I know this is probably a really simple question, but how can I just get a line to represent the edge of the shape?
I've got an image with a lot of contiguous areas of a similar colour, but not disimilar enough from the background to use the colour picker. Is there a way to get Photoshop CS4 to select these contiguous areas, in the same way that the Paint Bucket does?