I'm on an old laptop, PS 5.5. I have a properly exposed iso 1800 D600 jpgcaptured in adobe rgb color space.I use camera raw to open this picture in photopro space and 16 bits to avoid banding and yet if I lift the curve a tiny bit or any other brightening trickimmediately there is banding. What?
Using CS6, I created a sky gradient on a new layer, then imported some photos to other layers for a composite. Then I noticed horizontal banding of varying widths in the sky area of the gradient. When I use the Move Tool to move the gradient layer around, the bands move along in a fixed position, so it's not my monitor. When I Option-click on the gradient layer eyeball icon to make just that layer visible, there is no banding on the screen, just a smooth gradient as it should be.
I have never noticed this happening before. What causes it and what can I do about it?
I have a problem with color banding in Photoshop CS6 while zoomed out, even though I am working in 16 bit. Here is a crop of the same area of a .psd while open in Photoshop CS6 (left) and in Illustrator CS5 (right).
The banding is quite apparent in PS while not present in Illustrator. At 100% zoom there is little banding in PS, and converting to 8 bit makes it look markedly worse. However at 25% zoom (which these crops were taken at) converting to 8 bit makes no visible difference, making me think that Photoshop's zoom is working at 8 bit for some reason.
Since the image looks fine in Illustrator I'm pretty sure it's not a problem with my display, or graphics card/driver. I've tried changing the color profile (currently set to Adobe RGB) in Photoshop without effect. I've also tried changing the 'Graphics Processor' level in Photoshop, including disabling it entirely, as well as reducing the cache level to '1' without effect either. I'm not quite sure why Illustrator is able to handle the image so nicely at all zoom levels while Photoshop introduces all this banding.
When I export RAW files, specifying that I want the output to be in sRGB color space the resulting files have the Adobe RGB color space. The same is true if I specify I want them in ProPhoto. Is this a bug? I have done it successfully in other versions of Lightroom, but not in 4.3.
Gradient and color banding are very apparent and exaggerated until I zoom in to 66.6%. It even hangs for a split second as if it is solving a new render at a higher quality. This is getting frustrating as I've found myself manually trying to clean up issues that actually aren't there when I zoom in close enough. These issues are expecially obvious when working with skin using several degrunge techniques and dodge and burn on a softlight layer. It does not seem to matter what display I use.
If I commit all adjustments to a new layer the problem goes away. I'm working on a Eurocom Panther 3 running Windows 7 64 Ultimate. I have a hex core Intel processor and 2 Nvidia 580m in SLI, though I am aware that is not used in Photoshop.
Recently, I updated my LR3 to LR4.3 and my camera from Olympus EP2 to OMD. So, I am not sure if any of these factors play a role but, I started having severe banding on photos taken in vivid sunny day with a blue sky. I am not an advanced LR user and, my process of developing photos in LR has always been pretty simple. First, I export RAW format pictures from a card to a hard drive. Then, I do some adjustments and make two jpeg copies from each RAW file.
One copy I in Export dialog box File Settings as a JPEG, Color Space sRGB, 100% quality and another copy I export for web so, I limit to some minimum size without setting any quality reductions.
Again, in the Export dialog box -> File Setting -> check (checkbox) Limit File Size to 300KB to 1MB. In this sample case, file was farely large so, LR did not allow me to save this file in less than 950KB. URL....
I'm trying to determine a way of color banding my point files so that different ranges of elevations are visually represented by different colors. See example below that I believe was done with a different software program.
I often find I need to remove something from a broad gradated area of an image, such as a bill board from a dusk sky. I've always tried to clone the image out, but end up with a mottled area of the sky. If I get it smooth, it seems to have a different texture because I've used a lower opacity in the brush. I've tried replacing the sky with a gradation but blending that at the horizon is always a bit iffy.
I have applied a 3D>Extrude and Bevel on my text. Now problem is that when doing it, my border(part that is extruded) causes a color banding, since it rasterizes the gradients. See my image below.
I'm using Lightroom 4..i've been importing my RAW images from my external harddrive. Some show up in the catalog as ruined with a blank white section and color bands. I've checked the actual image on the external hard drive and it is fine. I've deleted the ruined files from the LR catalog, then re-imported those problem ones... still come in as white with banding. I've even tried deleting them from the catalog, then from the hard drive... then back onto the HD from the camera, then back into lightroom. Some look ok until I look at then in loupe view and the same problem happens. Mean while the images on the HD and on the camera's CF card are fine.
I've noticed that if I convert the same image to multiple color spaces and apply a 3D LUT with the new Color Lookup adjustment, the result is noticeably different. From experimenting, it seems that the lookup tables operate on whatever RGB value is given to them no matter what color space.
Is there a certain color space these were optimized for? For instance, would a certain color space give me a more authentic 2-strip look than another because of the space they were sampled in? And if I create my own 3D LUTs, would I have to create a separate one for each color space in order to get a consistent look in all spaces?
I've just got a new monitor and i have downloaded an ICC profile to use as i don't have calibration hardware yet. I've loaded it in Windows using color management. My question now is what color 'working space' i should set in Photoshop.
I must say that learning about color has been a steep learning curve for me so I have tried to avoid it as much as i can!!! If a total novice guide on color has been covered in another thread just point me there!
I'm exporting Tiff Prophoto files from Lightroom into PSPX4 for further processing. The images are 1 to 2 stops under exposed when compared to Lightroom's image.I have selected PSPX4 color profile to match LR export color space.
I have tried exporting the Tiffs as sRGB and adode1998 and still the images are under exposed. I have little knowledge about color management and have searched around the web for possible answers, but no luck.
I got my monitor calibrated/profiled already and I am ready to work on some pictures. Do I need to fiddle with color settings in Photoshop? I bring them in from RAW to photoshop as ProPhoto. Do I need to do anything else?
my 20d is set to sRGB. My woring space in photoshop is set to sRGB. When I take a photo and bring it in, the exif just say "RGB" - not sRGB and not Adobe. So I'm no sure what "RGB" is. But anyway, I'm trying to avoid having to "Image/Mode/Convert to sRGB" and no matter what I do, unless I MANUALLY do that option from the menu, my images always look crummy grey.
Ok so I thought, "I'll create a batch process" so I created an action with a file/open/image/mode/convert and selected sRGB, did a close on the file, stopped the action. I tried applying it to each image in a directory. They STILL came out grey. But when I manually selected the option, they looked great.
What's going on here? I don't want to have to manually convert each image like that. Why can't I seem to get my photoshop environment to ONLY work with sRGB?
A lot of the time, I wil create an image in photoshop (and in mind, all of the work that I do is 100% for the web) and somewhere in that image will be a nice blue color but when i export that image, it will be purple, not the blue that i had made.
Somehow, at this point, I think i have everything all goofed up between my monitor, adobe gamma and photoshops color profiles.
For instance, i was looking in a book of color and found this nice yellow tone (y30, 0 0 0) that looked wonderful on paper, similar to colors i see online.. I transalted that to #FFFAB2 in photoshop, looked right.. I then went to my web editor, made the BG of a table that color.. and it now appears to be a murky maize color, not the light grey/yellow at all i had aimed for.
the color spaces in photoshop and its relationship to adobe gamma and maybe some pointers on how to set this all up so that it fits the right bill? I know this is a terrbily vague question, but my understanding of this is also vague and i would love some blanks filled in. My monitor is a sony trinitron MultiScan E540, 21", 2 years old.
This is an InDesign/Photoshop error but the problem itself is coming from Photoshop.
I made a silhouette pic in Photoshop CS6 after rasterizing some layers and what I have is a black background with a white figure in the foreground. I could not convert it to a JPEG, but I opened it up in Bridge and I wanted to import it into InDesign, but then I got an error message that said:
"This file uses an unsupported color space. Only RGB, CMYK, L*a*b*, grayscale, indexed and bitmap formats are supported by the Photoshop filter"
I tried to fix it in Photoshop but there's no way to unlock the Background layer in order to edit it.
I've set up a customized color space, named it and saved it. The one pref I always change is that I work in Adobe 1998. So I'll be working in PS and then see that when I go to save an image, the box checked at the bottom of the Open/Save dialog is sRGB. I go the the color space dialog and low and behold it says North American General Purpose. How did it get switched?
The color space I use as a default throughout CS6 for RGB is Adobe RGB 1998. This is because I do not want all my RGB work to be in sRGB. Here is a simple workflow I am having problems with:
1. I set up a new web project and use the sRGB color space 2. I export the file as a flat PNG via 'Save To Web'. In the settings, 'convert to sRGB' is selected. 3. I open the file and color is off. I do not get a color space dialog when opening the file. 4. I need to then go into Assign Profile and assign the sRGB color profile, then... 5. Convert profile to convert to sRGB.
If I do the above but save out a JPEG...
1. When opening the jpeg, again no color warning dialog. 2. When I go to Assign Profile, the default is set to 'Do not color manage this document'.
The above also happens outside of Save to Web, as when I save Layer Comps to PNG files.But...if I save a JPEG file via Save As, the sRGB color space is correctly tagged when I open the file. Odd.Why are not Save to Web's save sRGB color space actually saving the color space in either PNG or JPEG formats?
Why do I get much different results between going from Assign Profile to Convert Profile? I thought Assign was assigning that color profile without converting the actual document, where Convert actually changes the image. I played with the advanced options in convert, but still cannot get anything super close to the original file.
I shoot Nikon and use Capture NX2 as my RAW converter. I then save my conversion as a TIFF and move into Photoshop CS6 for all of my editing and processing.
Here is my question: I have an Epson 3880 printer and i really like it. Ive started making my own prints and ive found that the ability to tweak the images is really an advantage vs. having a lab print them for me. Ive read quite a bit and seem to get conflicting positions.
Its seems as if sRGB is best for internet whereas Adobe RGB (1998) is best for prints. However, im a bit confused by all of the articles ive read. If i want the best of both worlds would the following be a good workflow?
1. Shoot in RAW 2. Convert RAW image to a TIFF in Capture NX2 with the Adobe RGB (1998) color space (I use Capture NX2 as my RAW converter) 3. Move the file to Photoshop CS6 and fully edit 4. Print the image 5. Convert the image to the sRGB color space and save as a JPEG 6. Post to web (i.e. Flickr)
Does that sound like a good plan or would you recommend starting and ending in the sRGB color space. Ive heard that changing the color space in an image slightly denigrates it ?
lately I;ve been reading some cs3 books and am a bit confused about color spaces. The book says to keep your color space the same throughout your entire work flow.
My camera is set to SRGB
Lightroom is SRgb..but default is pro photo rgb
And I have cs3 set to RGB.
Is this a good way to do it? I never print really all my work just goes straight to the web, and I nearly always shoot raw.
Also If I was wanting to print, at what stage would I change the color space of a photo?
1. First in ProPhoto, passing it to PS CS3, accepting ProPhoto (against the working color space), and then I convert it in sRGB in Edit.
2. Next, converting it in ProPhoto, but when CS3 receives it, I ask for immediate conversion in sRGB, the working space.
3. Third, I change the color sapace in ACR to sRGB and pass the image to CS3.
Of course, the ACR adjustment parameters are identical in the three processes.
1 and 3 are almost identical (a difference layer does show differences, but I don't see them on the results without huge boosting, and that shows quite random, noise-like difference).
However, 1 and 2 are *vastly* different. The difference, boosted by 2 EV clearly shows the original texture, which is determined by a pecularity in the blue channel.
What is the explanation for the difference between the two conversion from ProPhoto to sRGB?
The conversion engine is Adobe (the conversion immediately at receiving the image does not ask me for the engine).
the TIFF output from our large office printer cannot be opened with photoshop? im just told its unsupported. how can a £2000 design suite (dont even get me started on why the english have to pay more than double the US pay for the same product) not open basic TIFF files? the basic windows one can open them fine and i have to print them to pdf to import into photoshop
this is ridiculous - is there a work around or do i just not use TIFF from that printer/scanner any more?