Colours are being over saturated in shaded areas and less saturated in light areas when filled over an aeea. The colours need to remain the same saturation level when darkened or lightened. Is a setting affecting the saturation levels?
View 12 RepliesI'll make the important parts bold.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have been trying to print to my local windows printer (monochrome laser) and to a pdf file but cannot seem to get all of my lines black. Different colors, by layers, produce a greyscale arrangement of linework. I have tried changing the plotstyles to the various available plotstyles: Monochrome.stb, Monochrome.ctb and Autodesk-MONO.stb, but have not had any success. All are printing the same.
Ideally I would like to set most linework to black and be able to have shaded areas and some linework in a grey tone when needed.
What is the difference between rooms and areas? Why create an area schedule off 'areas' as opposed to using 'room' areas? Can you create a schedule off room areas?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIn the image below I have an aerial photo of an Island. I need to make it so as water areas are black and land areas are white (not greyscale) almost like a silhouette. My first plan was to draw round the island with a black paint brush and then use the "bucket fill" with a suitable threshold to fill all of the areas up to the black outline with black, however this doesn't work as the bucket fill either breaks through the black line or when I reduce the threshold, doesn't color the water areas solidly.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a drawing (autocad 2011) ,which i have to measure the areas of the many rooms and i arrange these areas in a table! is there any fast way to do so? avoiding the boaring typical area measurements room by room?
View 9 Replies View Relatedhow to change the blue to red (using a brush in Color mode), but the problem is I want to make the whole ribbon solid red (the same look as the right-most stripe). Cloning the red part over the rest? tried painting with Multiply in the middle stripe and Color in the lefthand stripe, but that still gives me obvious distinctions where the stripes were.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I export an image the colors are alot more saturated in the files, I made a screenshot to show you. Notice how saturated the image export is than the photoshop. Do you need to see my color settings? I would like to get this fixed,
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have been using Photoshop for years and I have never had this problem before. Just recently after finishing up a private commission I proceeded to "Save to Web" with convert to sRGB selected. This was always the way I did it before. However the result was different, for if I viewed the file (PNG, JPEG or gif didn't matter) it looked super saturated on my computer when I viewed it with windows photo viewer or I uploaded it to Facebook.
However, it looks fine if I look at it with quicktime, dropping it in a browser, or other viewers. I even opened the saved file (the oversaturated one) inside Photoshop and it looked just like my PSD file. When I uploaded it on Facebook, I went to a different computer and it looked the way it was suppose to.
My concern is two fold, first I like using windows photoviewer because I can cycle through draft files quickly to make decisions and second if some of my viewers are seeing it incorrectly then that may be true of other people. I am currently using photoshop CS5 and I and my OS is Win7.
My color settings are
RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1
CMYK: US Web Coated (SWOP) v2
Gray: Dot Gain 20%
Spot: Dot Gain 20%
Color Management Policies: All are set tro Preserve Embedded Profiles.
i have just upgraded from Mac OS 10.5 and CS5 to Mac OS 10.8.4 and CS6 printing on Epson 9880. Struggling to get calibrated prints - before it was excellent. Now printed images are WAY contrasty and saturated compared to the monitor, a LA Cie 324, which I calibrate with la Cie Eye One puck. If I use settings "Let Printer" manage color, the print is much less saturated and contrasty than if I use the settings "Let PS" manage color; all this relates to using icc profiles for Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, or other papers, Ilford Galerie Prestige Smooth Pearl, for example. The overall color is ok, it is an issue of contrast and saturation at the moment.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen i look at my photos in Ulead Instant Viewer or Breeze Browser Pro they look similar to what they did on the back of my camera.But when i view them in my newly purchased CS6 the saturation is increased by around 25 to 30 units.When i scanned some 35mm colour negatives and viewed them in photoshop they had exactly the same saturation as when viewed in Ulead Instant Viewer and Breeze Browser Pro.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI've been using Photoshop for a while, and was recently bought CS5... My problem is, everytime I either import a photo from my files or I copy an image offline, open a new file and then paste in the image, they come out highly saturated.
I've searched the PS forums and have seen it might be something to do with my monitor settings but I'm not particularly good with technical talk so I haven'tgot a clue what I should be looking for or what I should be changing,
So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me!
I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated.
I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.
Here are my color settings:
whenever I pick a color and use a brush (any brush) and normally apply to a layer I never get that particular color. Instead it comes out slightly lighter and more saturated than the picked color. Which means when I'm trying to paint/blend with a particular skin tone I can't because the picked color comes out differently. I've come up with a quick workaround by painting on a layer above then adjusting with Hues/Saturation/Levels/etc and then merging but this is tedious!
I did notice when I checked my Color Settings my Color Working Space had been set/reset to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (which I don't recall doing or would do). I reset back to Adobe RGB (1998) but the saturated brushstrokes are still a problem ...
My Color Management seems to be all synced ...
I'm using CS2, WinXP Pro SP3 (which was a recent change, previously SP2)
When I view them with ACDsee viewer or Canon software they both look the same. But when I use photoshop the images look too saturated. It's not easy to edit my photos, as the out put does not look the same as when I am editing.
View 3 Replies View RelatedThe files started in LR, output PS adobe rgb space, worked in adobe rgb space, saved, and imported back with no settings.I've never had this before so.?
View 17 Replies View RelatedMy colors and value are a lot darker and saturated in my navigator window.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have an image in Photoshop (CS5, Windows 7) which I wanted to export to PDF in order to print it but then I noticed that the colors varied significantly making the result unusable.The image is composed in Adobe RGB and I'm working on a wide gamut monitor (Dell U2711) which I calibrated and profiled with a Spyder4.
In Photoshop the image contains a nice dull light brown but when I open the PSD in Illustrator or InDesign or when I export it to PDF and view it in Acrobat there is way too much red in it. Below I have attached an example of how colors look like in Photoshop (left) and the rest of the system (right):(note: this is an Adobe RGB JPEG, so viewing it on a normal gamut monitor might not show as much difference as there actually is)
I tried different profiles for my monitor (the one I created with the Spyder, the factory profile from Dell, the standard AdobeRGB profile, no profile at all etc.). While the color obviously changed a little the overall problem still persists: Photoshop shows the nice yellowish brown, all the other applications show a very reddish image. The difference is even noticeable quite extremely on my second monitor which is just a normal gamut monitor with a color range of about 73% of sRGB.I also tried exporting it to a flat JPEG with no embedded profiles which makes the result a little better but the colors are still not accurate at all.
Wondering what techniques, or actions anyone uses to achieve the rich and saturated colors that I see in many images.
When I've messed around with saturation in my images I often wind up jacking up the skin tones, among other things. I know that on one or two images I can isolate the areas that I want to saturate but on many images this is not practical. I shoot with a 20D and a variety of Canon and Sigma lens, primarily a Canon 50 1.8, 85 1.8 and Sigma 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8.
i'm experimenting with texture baking / render to texture. I've setup a simple scene with a box and a sphere and a omni light, no exposure, mental ray. I've rendered to texture the "complete map" for both. Then i've switched to default scanline renderer, put the baked materials to 100 self illumination, but the result (on the right) is more saturated and darker of the original render (on the left).
I've tried with different setups, but the result is the same.
I am using lightroom 5.3 and am exporting a jpg from a file with a lot of pinks and whites. I "toned down" the pinks in the develop module and it loogs good on my calibrated monitor. When I export however, the colors (especiall the pinks) are much more saturated (as viewed in windows exporer) or printed by an on-line service. The image also looks good via soft proffing in the sRGB space in both perceptual and relative.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen opening a photograph in recently installed version of PSE11 they all appear oversaturated. I have checked all images in Canon DPP and Serif Photoplus 5 and they are fine.
PSE 11 was OK initially. The only changes I have made were to install a printer profile for my Canon Pixma IP4200 and calibrate my screen. However, printed images are fine.
Running in Vista.
I recently imported about 1500 photos to light-room, and when I click on a photo, it comes up more saturated than the image I took. And it's automatic to all images.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI have LR5.3. I've only just noticed this. Not sure if it's been this way for a while or not. When I export from LR and make JPGs as sRGB they are more saturated. Also, when I view in the Web panel the images are more saturated. Is this normal?
View 22 Replies View RelatedAfter a computer crash, Lightroom 3.6 is showing all my pictures, all cameras (7D, T1i, G12) with an oversaturated orange colours (to fix this I have to reduce red saturation by -15 and increase red hue by +68 ) . I do not see this in CS5 not in Canon's DPP. I could create a new rpofile to revert this issue, I am afraid this will cause issues when I upgrade to newer versions.What can I do to restore my old settings without messing my updates?
View 4 Replies View RelatedIf I open my .rw2 files in Windows Explorer, the blue color is very saturated and also if I had import my .rw2 photos into Lightroom 4.2. This has occurred when I had upgrade Lightroom 4 to 4.2
I'm using Windows 7 Pro - 64 bit and photo's are taken with my Panasonic Lumix LX-5
When importing images to the catalog, both the preview and import image is highly contrasted and saturated.When I use edit in the photo opens as the original image without updates. My import preswet options show none.I am using Windows7 32 bit.
View 6 Replies View RelatedHow to Lighten areas?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a gif image. It is a black and white outline of the state of New York. How do I select just the outside area to delete the background?
If I use the magic wand, It selects all the white. Then when I delete, it deletes the entire background and leaves only the black outline.
I want the black outline and the interior white area. How can I properly select this?
I'm using CS6 and I can't figure how to Intersect Shape Areas. The website I'm using is saying to use the pathfinder panel which I can't seem to find either.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I open photos from Lightroom, areas of transparency are showing up at random within the photo. If I convert the Background to a Layer, the problem disappears.
What is causing this, and how can I prevent it? Win 7 16 gig Ram NVIDIA GT 220 .