Photoshop :: Rich, Saturated Colors From Digital Camera
Nov 30, 2005
Wondering what techniques, or actions anyone uses to achieve the rich and saturated colors that I see in many images.
When I've messed around with saturation in my images I often wind up jacking up the skin tones, among other things. I know that on one or two images I can isolate the areas that I want to saturate but on many images this is not practical. I shoot with a 20D and a variety of Canon and Sigma lens, primarily a Canon 50 1.8, 85 1.8 and Sigma 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8.
I don't really understand digital -photography- that well---which is quite different I realize than film. I'm trying to get better colors from a pocket digital camera (Canon Elf 310) which (supposedly) has 12MP. The pictures I want to take for the job I have in mind involve clouds and landscapes and I gotta take a pocket came because we're camping/fishing.  Anyway, they -could- be very cool but the tests I've done show that the colors are going to be just -wrong-. And by 'wrong' I mean everything either seems -under- saturated or hyper-statured. For example... the subtle pinks in clouds are rendered as washed out or will be overly contrasty (hyper) yellow to orange.  The detail is quite sharp, however so does that mean there's something 'there' there which can be properly corrected? And if so, how?
whenever I pick a color and use a brush (any brush) and normally apply to a layer I never get that particular color. Instead it comes out slightly lighter and more saturated than the picked color. Which means when I'm trying to paint/blend with a particular skin tone I can't because the picked color comes out differently. I've come up with a quick workaround by painting on a layer above then adjusting with Hues/Saturation/Levels/etc and then merging but this is tedious!
I did notice when I checked my Color Settings my Color Working Space had been set/reset to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (which I don't recall doing or would do). I reset back to Adobe RGB (1998) but the saturated brushstrokes are still a problem ...
My Color Management seems to be all synced ...
I'm using CS2, WinXP Pro SP3 (which was a recent change, previously SP2)
question regarding the quality of a digital picture. If I take a picture in 2048 x 1536, when I open in Photoshop it says 72 dpi. This is my question:
I want to take this picture and use it in a graphic ad that is going to be printed in a final output of 300 dpi. Do I need to change the resolution to 300 dpi? Will this be a true 300dpi image?
I have a friend who is interested in purchasing a Digital Video Camera. They would like to keep the budget around $500 USD if possible. I, myself, would have offered her my advice, but in all honesty, I'm not too up to date on the latest happenings for that product line.
Since there are many great artists here, if anyone has delved into digital video, and can recommend to me a good camera, please let me know so I can tell her (they want this camera to take video of their first child!) They would like something that is simplistic to operate (she knows her way around computers though), and preferably something that converts to an easy-to-view media format.
I just got a new digital camera today (Canon Powershot Pro1). source that explains print resoultion?
My camera is 8 megapixel and I'd like to be able to print some of my images after doing some minor adjustments to the images. I have never had to print from photoshop and want the best quality possibe.
Is there a good technique to remove or prevent a moiré pattern from a digital camera capture? I work for a small real estate newspaper and lately the majority of images we have received from Agents have been unretouched jpeg files from digital cameras. In many of them we are seeing a distinct moiré pattern, usually where the repeated geometric patterns in the design of the house exist. Typically this is usually the roof tiles, or siding of the house. I have tried to remove the moiré in PhotoShop using the filter>noise>deskpeckle, the filter>blur>gaussian blur and the filter>noise>median, and Katrin Eismann's LAB method all with limited and unsatisfactory results.
I want to shoot RAW images on my digital camera but I'm at a loss when it comes to how to edit RAW files.
I don't really want to use the RAW software that came with my camera but have read somewhere that you can edit RAW files in Photoshop. I have Photoshop CS but can't figure out how to use the RAW plug in.
Would the Photoshop CS RAW plug in work in the same way as the RAW shooter software I got with my camera? I mean if I used the Photoshop RAW plug in it's not going to compress my images. The reason for shooting RAW is that they are like a digital negative.
Colours are being over saturated in shaded areas and less saturated in light areas when filled over an aeea. The colours need to remain the same saturation level when darkened or lightened. Is a setting affecting the saturation levels?
I cannot open new files from Photoshop CS6.  I have to go outside of the program and open them by dragging the file onto the dock icon. This means I cannot open any of my digital camera files (transferred into Nikon Transfer into "Pictures") from the program. So, I have to go 'outside' of PS, and then back in – and this eats up a good deal of time, and this latest version isn't as quick as it used to be.  Sometimes, it won't even let me open a file I'd worked on only a few hours before. Again, I can open them 'outside' PS, but I keep getting this error when I try to access them from via command-O:  "Could not complete your request because of a program error."  I've reset the defaults twice. Fresh operating system. Clean user account.
I have a G6 Canon digital camera that I primarily shoot JPG images with, and wanted to experiment with raw images.
I took about 15 RAW images the other day with this camera and tried to open up. I went to canon and downloaded their Zoombrowser 6.0, which I can view the RAW files, but it does not edit them. I'm looking for something similar to Adobe Camera raw to hopefully view and edit them.
opening the photo. I had to remove the photo for obvious reasons.
can anybody help with a suggestion for making a picture taken with a digital camera at 72dpi and changing it to 200 or 300dpi? I am trying to incorporate this photo in a logo that will be used for print.
I've taken a photo of a display frame, and I need to align it perfectly horizontal in order to not crop off parts of the frame when editing out the background. I know how to move images back and forth with the crop tool, but it's not very precise, and I definitely don't want the frame in the image partly chopped off because I can't get it angled just right.
I have tried to insert a mp4 video file into the timeline and it just does not see the file and if I navigate to it and try open it does nothing
I have download all patches This videostudio pro x3 came loaded on the laptop the mp4 file is from a olympus sp-800 us - I took it from the sd card and put it in a folder on the hard drive
I read all the things people have written I am not at the point of trying to create file I can not import the file at all
I am trying to alter or create a colorspace preset/profile that would allow me to open a digital image in Lightroom or Photoshop that ultamately changes the colorspace to one that simulates the view of a dog. All I really have to go on is the two spctrums shown in the image below.
Trying to get an 8x10 print from a digital camera photo on a letter size paper. Reguardless of what we do, the print job only comes up to 8x6.5. How do we get an 8x10???
The caption field of Metadata automatically fills with OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA. How can I prevent this? How can I get rid of this on my 3000 pictures of Turkey without manually deleting each caption? I am new to Lightroom, and have version 4.1. I use an iMAC, OSX10.6.8.
When opening a photo with some bright yellows in the foreground, the yellows all become "hot", and show up like it's some sort of a filter being applied. This is making it impossible to work with the photo & make adjustments in the Camera RAW lab. The same thing does not happen when the photo is opened to "edit" directly (versus working with it in Camera RAW lab).Â
A client has asked a question that seems strange to me regarding rich blacks in images. They want to be able to change blacks in an image that might be 80 80 80 100 to 30 30 30 100. My thought would be that they would just change the ink limit to what the printer has recommended. They could also reduce the black value in curves, but to get their limits would look strange. Before I go back and state my opinion, I would love to hear from some printers to see if they have any other opinions. They are not trying to mix colours to put them into InDesign.
My problem is that I am converting RGB native images to CMYK and my Key (Black) comes out rich, contains equal levels of CMY and K, instead of true black, only k.
Currently my way around this is to do the standard convert to profile CMYK and with my path selected to the section I would like to be true black simply turn off all CM and Y channels and re-save the image but this is a little labor intensive.
Is there a way that I can go straight from RGB to CMYK and achieve true black without alteration?
When I export an image the colors are alot more saturated in the files, I made a screenshot to show you. Notice how saturated the image export is than the photoshop. Do you need to see my color settings? I would like to get this fixed,
when exporting a PDF with hyperlinked slices from Illustrator, i choose the Rich Content PDF option. but when i open the PDF with Acrobat or Preview (i'm on a Mac), the hyperlinks are gone.
I am having a bumper sticker printed in mass quantities. The sticker is black with with large white text. My problem started when I exported my ai file to a PDF and the black came out gray. I then exported as a jpeg and found the same grey result. After searching online I found that pure black is not 100K, and it seems to be a mixture of all the CMYK colors. Well I adjusted the colors to make a rich black blend and when I saved it as a jpeg the black displayed as intended. However when i exported the same ai file as a PDF the black still looks grey. Will the pdf print pure black even though it doesnt display that way on screen?
I have been using Photoshop for years and I have never had this problem before. Just recently after finishing up a private commission I proceeded to "Save to Web" with convert to sRGB selected. This was always the way I did it before. However the result was different, for if I viewed the file (PNG, JPEG or gif didn't matter) it looked super saturated on my computer when I viewed it with windows photo viewer or I uploaded it to Facebook.
However, it looks fine if I look at it with quicktime, dropping it in a browser, or other viewers. I even opened the saved file (the oversaturated one) inside Photoshop and it looked just like my PSD file. When I uploaded it on Facebook, I went to a different computer and it looked the way it was suppose to.
My concern is two fold, first I like using windows photoviewer because I can cycle through draft files quickly to make decisions and second if some of my viewers are seeing it incorrectly then that may be true of other people. I am currently using photoshop CS5 and I and my OS is Win7.  My color settings are  RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1 CMYK: US Web Coated (SWOP) v2 Gray: Dot Gain 20% Spot: Dot Gain 20%  Color Management Policies: All are set tro Preserve Embedded Profiles.
i have just upgraded from Mac OS 10.5 and CS5 to Mac OS 10.8.4 and CS6 printing on Epson 9880. Struggling to get calibrated prints - before it was excellent. Now printed images are WAY contrasty and saturated compared to the monitor, a LA Cie 324, which I calibrate with la Cie Eye One puck. If I use settings "Let Printer" manage color, the print is much less saturated and contrasty than if I use the settings "Let PS" manage color; all this relates to using icc profiles for Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, or other papers, Ilford Galerie Prestige Smooth Pearl, for example. The overall color is ok, it is an issue of contrast and saturation at the moment.
When i look at my photos in Ulead Instant Viewer or Breeze Browser Pro they look similar to what they did on the back of my camera.But when i view them in my newly purchased CS6 the saturation is increased by around 25 to 30 units.When i scanned some 35mm colour negatives and viewed them in photoshop they had exactly the same saturation as when viewed in Ulead Instant Viewer and Breeze Browser Pro.
I've been using Photoshop for a while, and was recently bought CS5... My problem is, everytime I either import a photo from my files or I copy an image offline, open a new file and then paste in the image, they come out highly saturated.  I've searched the PS forums and have seen it might be something to do with my monitor settings but I'm not particularly good with technical talk so I haven'tgot a clue what I should be looking for or what I should be changing,
So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me! Â I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated.Â
I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.  Here are my color settings:
