I've been using Photoshop for a while, and was recently bought CS5... My problem is, everytime I either import a photo from my files or I copy an image offline, open a new file and then paste in the image, they come out highly saturated.
I've searched the PS forums and have seen it might be something to do with my monitor settings but I'm not particularly good with technical talk so I haven'tgot a clue what I should be looking for or what I should be changing,
I recently imported about 1500 photos to light-room, and when I click on a photo, it comes up more saturated than the image I took. And it's automatic to all images.
So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me!
I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated.
I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.
I have an image in Photoshop (CS5, Windows 7) which I wanted to export to PDF in order to print it but then I noticed that the colors varied significantly making the result unusable.The image is composed in Adobe RGB and I'm working on a wide gamut monitor (Dell U2711) which I calibrated and profiled with a Spyder4.
In Photoshop the image contains a nice dull light brown but when I open the PSD in Illustrator or InDesign or when I export it to PDF and view it in Acrobat there is way too much red in it. Below I have attached an example of how colors look like in Photoshop (left) and the rest of the system (right):(note: this is an Adobe RGB JPEG, so viewing it on a normal gamut monitor might not show as much difference as there actually is)
I tried different profiles for my monitor (the one I created with the Spyder, the factory profile from Dell, the standard AdobeRGB profile, no profile at all etc.). While the color obviously changed a little the overall problem still persists: Photoshop shows the nice yellowish brown, all the other applications show a very reddish image. The difference is even noticeable quite extremely on my second monitor which is just a normal gamut monitor with a color range of about 73% of sRGB.I also tried exporting it to a flat JPEG with no embedded profiles which makes the result a little better but the colors are still not accurate at all.
Colours are being over saturated in shaded areas and less saturated in light areas when filled over an aeea. The colours need to remain the same saturation level when darkened or lightened. Is a setting affecting the saturation levels?
I always close/save any image(s) that I'm working on however when I later reopen PS, the last image(s) I was working automatically open in PS again.
when I quit PS, it often says "Photoshop Quit Unexpectedly". This happens whether I close by right clicking on the PS icon on the dock and selecting quit or if I select Photoshop from the top menu and choose "quit photoshop" from the drop down.Using an iMac w/OSX 10.7.3 and PS CS4 11.0.2
I have been away for a few months and now, when I go to open a RAW image in CS6, it tries to default to Photoshop, then opens in Camera RAW. This is something new. How do I get RAW images to open automatically in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw)? They did before (two months ago). They do not now. I can, of course, right click and go to the dropdown menu and tell it to open in RAW but that is an extra, unnecessary step. There's a saying..."It's not a bug, it's a feature." No, this seems to be a bug. What happened?
I have to make an animation for a game, and I have to put a large number of images exactly next to each other in a line. This takes a lot of time to do by hand. Is there a way (or software) to do this automatically?
There are 4 jpgs that launch automatically when I launch photoshop PS6. They are beinf stored somewhere else and have been renamed by the system. On a new MacPro 3.2 Quad, running 10.7.5.
if there is any way of automatically appending metadata into images when i save them in Photoshop, i have a metadata file saved in Bridge and want that to be automatically appended into any file i save with Photoshop. the metedata i want installed is my name and email address, just stuff that links the file to me, not Photoshop, although i dont want it to take anything out that it does allready when saving.
I have a very large PDF that I need to open in Photoshop (It is a template image). The size of the image is 125.9843" x 91.5354".
However, when I open in Photoshop the image is automatically resized to about 106" x 79". I have tried to manually input the dimensions upon opening the file, however, when I open the file and check "Image Size" the dimensions are 106" x 79" again.
I can open the image in Illustrator at the correct dimensions automatically, and the PDF file itself is at the correct dimensions.
I have just moved over to Photoshop CS6 from Elements 10. One thing I can't work out how to do is to have PS automatically convert opened files to RGB, exactly like PSE does.
For no reason that I can think of, When I click on a single image in Bridge to preview or to try and select multiple images to load as layers or merge to HDR, the first image clicked opens in ACR. How can i Stop this?
When opening an image in Photoshop CS6, in order to make the best use of the available screen area for viewing my photos, I have to either press the 'Fit Screen' option, at the top, or double-click the Hand Tool. Why doesn't the image fully fit in the available screen area automatically, when first opening? Is there a reason for images to open by default with empty space surrounding it, or is it an oversight by Adobe, in how the application works?
I have set of imagery in tiff format. For each of the images i have information such as coordinates where it was taken. This is in a text file.
The images are quite large. Like 800mb each.
What i am doing at this point is :
I open each image, copy the details from the text file and paste it inside the image and also I add my company logo. Then i resize it and reduce the size to a suitable one like 40 mb for printing.
What i was wondering if there is a possibility that this can be automated? Like a script or a program that will read from the text file the details, place them inside the image, put the logo in the appropriate place and resize.
When I export an image the colors are alot more saturated in the files, I made a screenshot to show you. Notice how saturated the image export is than the photoshop. Do you need to see my color settings? I would like to get this fixed,
I have been using Photoshop for years and I have never had this problem before. Just recently after finishing up a private commission I proceeded to "Save to Web" with convert to sRGB selected. This was always the way I did it before. However the result was different, for if I viewed the file (PNG, JPEG or gif didn't matter) it looked super saturated on my computer when I viewed it with windows photo viewer or I uploaded it to Facebook.
However, it looks fine if I look at it with quicktime, dropping it in a browser, or other viewers. I even opened the saved file (the oversaturated one) inside Photoshop and it looked just like my PSD file. When I uploaded it on Facebook, I went to a different computer and it looked the way it was suppose to.
My concern is two fold, first I like using windows photoviewer because I can cycle through draft files quickly to make decisions and second if some of my viewers are seeing it incorrectly then that may be true of other people. I am currently using photoshop CS5 and I and my OS is Win7.
My color settings are
RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1 CMYK: US Web Coated (SWOP) v2 Gray: Dot Gain 20% Spot: Dot Gain 20%
Color Management Policies: All are set tro Preserve Embedded Profiles.
i have just upgraded from Mac OS 10.5 and CS5 to Mac OS 10.8.4 and CS6 printing on Epson 9880. Struggling to get calibrated prints - before it was excellent. Now printed images are WAY contrasty and saturated compared to the monitor, a LA Cie 324, which I calibrate with la Cie Eye One puck. If I use settings "Let Printer" manage color, the print is much less saturated and contrasty than if I use the settings "Let PS" manage color; all this relates to using icc profiles for Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, or other papers, Ilford Galerie Prestige Smooth Pearl, for example. The overall color is ok, it is an issue of contrast and saturation at the moment.
When i look at my photos in Ulead Instant Viewer or Breeze Browser Pro they look similar to what they did on the back of my camera.But when i view them in my newly purchased CS6 the saturation is increased by around 25 to 30 units.When i scanned some 35mm colour negatives and viewed them in photoshop they had exactly the same saturation as when viewed in Ulead Instant Viewer and Breeze Browser Pro.
whenever I pick a color and use a brush (any brush) and normally apply to a layer I never get that particular color. Instead it comes out slightly lighter and more saturated than the picked color. Which means when I'm trying to paint/blend with a particular skin tone I can't because the picked color comes out differently. I've come up with a quick workaround by painting on a layer above then adjusting with Hues/Saturation/Levels/etc and then merging but this is tedious!
I did notice when I checked my Color Settings my Color Working Space had been set/reset to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (which I don't recall doing or would do). I reset back to Adobe RGB (1998) but the saturated brushstrokes are still a problem ...
My Color Management seems to be all synced ...
I'm using CS2, WinXP Pro SP3 (which was a recent change, previously SP2)
When I view them with ACDsee viewer or Canon software they both look the same. But when I use photoshop the images look too saturated. It's not easy to edit my photos, as the out put does not look the same as when I am editing.
The files started in LR, output PS adobe rgb space, worked in adobe rgb space, saved, and imported back with no settings.I've never had this before so.?
When I try to create a document, Gimp finds my web cam, but not the twain driver. The scanner is a perfection 636U. When I click on "create>scanner/camera", it gives me a Twain.exe system error - error message that reads:
"The program can't start because PMDD32F3.dll is missing from your computer. Try reinstalling the program to fix this problem."
Some more info that might be useful:
If I go into epsonscan directly, it finds the scanner and scans just fine. I can export the image and open in Gimp just fine.
The laptop is a win7 machine. There are no Win7 drivers for the scanner. I am using some Win2000 drivers that I used to use in XP with no issue.
The PMDD32F3.dll file is in the Windows>System32 file
I'm at a loss on why epsonscan works itself perfectly, but not in Gimp like it does on my XP machine.
I had to re download PDN a little while back, when i did, i made it my default image viewer. as soon as i set this, now every time i download an image, it automatically opens PDN, slowing down my download time, and just generally difficult. How to turn this off?
I have more than 2,000 QR codes that I need to insert into this template for printing. I am hoping that there is an automated way to do this so I don't need to resize and place each QR code image by hand.
Is there a batch command or action of some kind that can perform this task for me?
I'm just starting to use lightroom, and one of the features I'm looking for is the option to automatically delete the images from my flash card after they have been imported. Is there a hidden option to do such a thing?
Wondering what techniques, or actions anyone uses to achieve the rich and saturated colors that I see in many images.
When I've messed around with saturation in my images I often wind up jacking up the skin tones, among other things. I know that on one or two images I can isolate the areas that I want to saturate but on many images this is not practical. I shoot with a 20D and a variety of Canon and Sigma lens, primarily a Canon 50 1.8, 85 1.8 and Sigma 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8.
