I'm retouching some old family photo's
I'm able get rid of most of the scars and boost the colours of the old image as below:-
old
New
there is quite a lot of green noise on the image. Particularly the sofa. See below:-
I've run noise filters which can fix it a bit but to be honest it mainly just blurs the green into the black and makes the image that bit less sharp.
On your face, there are about 20,000 pores, and if you don’t have perfect skin, it seems like half of them turn into some for of unwanted skin irritation, a blackhead, whitehead, rosecea, dry skin, flaking skin, and probably about 1 dozen other things that I have never heard of. Nobody likes these imperfections in skin, especially on photo day. This lesson is going to show you how to remove blemishes using gimp.
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View 1 Replies View RelatedI am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.
Their order is:
Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background.
Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print.
I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3.
In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi.
In step 3, I crop only to get the child
then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result.
What am I missing?
I would like to ask a question about architectural photography lighting and retouching techniques. You can see some sample sites below: URL.....
These photos are very impressive and possibly taken as HDR.The question is; this transformation can be possible just photoshop retouching even using light? It looks like 3D rendering or PS drawing but we don't sure. Is it Photoshop Plug-In or what kind of technique is it?
I often find I need to remove something from a broad gradated area of an image, such as a bill board from a dusk sky. I've always tried to clone the image out, but end up with a mottled area of the sky. If I get it smooth, it seems to have a different texture because I've used a lower opacity in the brush. I've tried replacing the sky with a gradation but blending that at the horizon is always a bit iffy.
View 5 Replies View RelatedWe all know the illustration in the glossy car brochure has been enhanced - before Pshop days it was done by film retouches. I admire that work and would like to achieve similar results - making my car photos more like 'glamor' shots or 'studio' shots, starting with pictures of my own vintage car a 1936 Ford.
So far I've struck out on searching the web for techniques specific to this task, probably because I'm not using the best search terms. Automobile glamor retouching, or vehicle retouching was no luck.
Is there a specific name for this kind of retouching/enhancing/studio look? If I had a clue as to whether it's a recognizable trade or specific job I might be able to follow that lead.
Understand, i'm not asking you to do the work, just point me in the right direction.OTOH, if you do know of a site devoted to this I'd be very interested. I do remember completing a lesson in Scott Kelby's earlier 7 point book, where an automobile shot was improved, and that's been useful.
I want to edit in a complete non destructive way, so i work with smart objects and separate blemish removal layers. However, when i double click on my smart object to edit it in camera RAW, after i save the changes, my blemish layer looks like this:
On this particular example, i brought down the exposure on the smart object in camera raw and the corresponding exposure adjustment was not applied to the retouching layer as well. This defeats the whole purpose of making a separate adjustment layer if i have to make a new one every time i make adjustments to to the smart object.
We've encountered a huge problem with some JPEGs we retouched for print.Either directly after opening them in PS or after saving and closing the image (mostly the case) it's getting some kind of horizontal stripes / artifacts. Problem is, sometimes they only appear after saving the image, so we'd have to reopen every one a few times to make sure this error does not occur. Also, the images look abolsutely fine in the preview AND wehen placed in InDesign. Sometimes they're visible in the exported PDF, sometimes they aren't and we eventually find out when the product is already printed.
We're running CS6 on OS X 10.7.5 with newest patches and Updates. All images are HQ stockphotos from familiar sites.
I am interested in building an automated retouching system for a specific form of photography. The system needs to be able to handle a large workflow of images and create a look that is desirable and state of the art. I can see that there are a lot of systems out there that deal with portraiture etc and feel that if we could develop a similar system with actions for the specific work that I shoot it would be great.
View 2 Replies View RelatedHow do I retouch in LR4 on a Mac on selected areas for example in the highlights. It is very easyly done in Aperture 3 but it seems more complicated in LR4. Yes I am new with LR and have installed the Helpfile....but still.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am getting the exact same results with my Lightroom 4, as I am with the Lightroom 3 software; in regards to the Spot Removal tool
View 9 Replies View RelatedThis is easily the best method I have found so far for retouching skin and textures in GIMP. Using wavelet decompose you can work on the different frequencies of features in an image independently and with unparalleled control.
Getting Around in GIMP: Skin Retouching (Wavelet Decompose)
When trying to place an image into a new document in photoshop elements 12, I select all-copy-paste the image (or even drag it) over to the new doc created. However, when I do this - the image does not paste in at the same size. It typically shrinks down in size. Do I have to save the file, close out and then open the new doc and PLACE it in the document in order for it to keep size? There must be a better way to do this. Basically, how can I drag a photo that is 4x6 over to a new doc while keeping the size at 4x6.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI want to enlarge an image on a digital photo and save the enlarged image as a seperate photo
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am trying to open a photo in camera raw and the image always has a lot of red and blue in the picture? What can I do to avoid this. When I first started learning photoshop this did not happen?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI would like to adjust old photo made on bromportrait photo paper. Is it possible remove texture of bromportrait photo paper? If yes, how it to do?
The image has such texture:
On Adobe Elements 11 can you rotate an insert to a photo without rotatine entire photo?
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View 1 Replies View Relatedin elements 11 how can I extract a person from one photo and insert that person into another photo? I'm totally new to this and my software booklet doesn't say and I'm lost.
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View 1 Replies View RelatedI have two photos, shooted probably the same day, by the same photograph in the same place !But the pose is a bit different. first one is in high resolution and in black & white nuance. second one is a small resolution and in full colors.
I wish re-color the black&white photo using exactly the same nuance from the colored one.
can i "copy" all the colors from the color-one to the b&w one ?
i hope there is a quick way to do that with adobe photoshop or with a commercial plugin. Something like : i load the first one (color), i load the second one (b&n), and i press Ok and magic appears !
here are the photos :
the black and white to recolor
[URL]..........
the source color to use
[URL].........
Does photoshop let you cut and paste from one pic to the next, like for example... cut out the head of a person on one photo and paste it on another photo?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI did use the scissors and eraser tool to cutout unwanted background, and now I have an image I want to save and copy to another photo. The problem is that Elements 11 won't let me open up another photo at the same time, or let me copy the selected image to clipboard to paste on a different photo.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have PSE 11 and I am creating a Christmas theme with various pictures. I have my main photo with 6 layers including a tree and figures which I can move independantly and the background is the checkerboard as the main layers are turned off with only my selections showing. I also have another photo where I have selected part of it and also turned off the main layers leaving a small part with checkered background. When I have the main photo loaded and drag the other one from the photo bin with the move tool, nothing appears on the main picture. I have already dragged the Christmas tree in the same way and that worked. By the way, all the files are .PSD.
View 6 Replies View Relatedtried several times to shift an object from Photo 1 to photo 2:
identified the object in photo 1, e.g by using the lasso
stored it by edit/copy (or strg/c)
opened photo 2
edit/insert (or strg/v)
object appears in photo 2, but without the frame it was supposed to come with - and by which I could enlarge / minimize / shift it....
made a mistake or software error?
I have Photoshop Elements 10 which I work with sparingly. I would like to outline a section of the photo (a face) and somehow select it to be the whole photo - in other words to get rid of all background elements. I can outline the area with lasso, but do not know how to just save that area. When I save, the whole original photo is saved. I also tried the magic extractor, which really worked to make just the face and crop everthing else out, but it has a white background the same size as the original photo, which means it is essentially a reactangle with a face in it. I am trying to just get the face so I can paste it into a document, sort of like when people put heads on fake bodies. This is for a church newsletter. I have done this with my old Picture It software, but that was on my old computer. I think I should be able to do this with all the gadgets Photo Shop has, but I must be missing something.
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