Lightroom :: 4 - Retouching On Selected Areas (in Highlights)
Nov 26, 2012
How do I retouch in LR4 on a Mac on selected areas for example in the highlights. It is very easyly done in Aperture 3 but it seems more complicated in LR4. Yes I am new with LR and have installed the Helpfile....but still.
I often find I need to remove something from a broad gradated area of an image, such as a bill board from a dusk sky. I've always tried to clone the image out, but end up with a mottled area of the sky. If I get it smooth, it seems to have a different texture because I've used a lower opacity in the brush. I've tried replacing the sky with a gradation but blending that at the horizon is always a bit iffy.
I'm manipulating the colors on the soles of these shoes and was able to change the colors on the men and baby shoes, now I'm working on the girls and women shoes. When I got through the process, like I did with the mens shoes I'm not able to change the white (on girls shoes) into any other color.
I have a layer mask on the hue/sat filter I have gone between the black and white to reveal and hide. When I start adjusting the colors the whole image starts to change not my selected area. I have also just selected the mask to effect the selected area and no luck.
I have an image with the main subject (a car) and the background which I wish to have set to a Antique Contrast type effect. I think this is what it was called as I placed this text 'AntiqueContrast' in the file name to remind me, but now I can not find anything what I may have done to get this effect.
I either selected the area I wanted to alter or the the area I wanted left alone.
I was developing the other day in LR my fingers hit a key on the keyboard that sent the marching ants around the blown sky on my image. I was able to bring back ALL the detal in the sky by sliding the highlight slider down and I can tfigure out how in the world I got that selected?
With the attached raw file, and the below settings already in place, why is it that when I move the Highlights slider to the right, the image darkens, and to the left, it lightens? Something rather odd is happening in the lower half of the histogram. The original file has very low contrast. I haven't seen this behavior with other files.I'm Using LR 5.3 in Windows.
I am using LR 4.1 on a Mac with OS 10.6.8, and my highlights are showing banding or steps in the highlights as they gradate from bright to pure white. Seems to happen no matter which camera was used. Also, tiffs and jpegs output from the raw file exhibit the same banding. I do not remember this being an issue in LR 3.6 which I just upgraded from, but when I just now opened the same image in LR 3.6 I see the same problem. I just upgraded the OS before installing LR 4.1. Is there a known issue with this in LR4? The only local adjustment I have made is spot removal.
This is happening in Lightroom 4 final and is possibly related to this issue: Re: Brightening shadows darkens highlightsBrightening shadows darkens highlights.
Start with a fresh imageSet Whites to a highish value, like 55-60 or better 100.Slowly move the Highlights or Shadows slider to the left
The image gets brighter even it is supposed to get darker. If you move Highlights to the positive side, the image gets darker.
I have somehow lost the option of adjusting highlight, shadows, and whites on my Develop:Basic panel. What happened to those adjustments and how do I get them back?
On LR 4 and now 5, the shades of grey used to distinguish the selected vs, not selected images in the filmstrip at the bottom of the workspace are too close together making it difficult to see what has been selected. Is there someway to control the color and/or the shade of grey used for each to make it easier to tell at a glance which image(s) is currently selected?
What is the difference between rooms and areas? Why create an area schedule off 'areas' as opposed to using 'room' areas? Can you create a schedule off room areas?
In the image below I have an aerial photo of an Island. I need to make it so as water areas are black and land areas are white (not greyscale) almost like a silhouette. My first plan was to draw round the island with a black paint brush and then use the "bucket fill" with a suitable threshold to fill all of the areas up to the black outline with black, however this doesn't work as the bucket fill either breaks through the black line or when I reduce the threshold, doesn't color the water areas solidly.
I have a drawing (autocad 2011) ,which i have to measure the areas of the many rooms and i arrange these areas in a table! is there any fast way to do so? avoiding the boaring typical area measurements room by room?
In LR 3.6 I worked with panoramas imported as 16bit TIFs from PTGui which, at their margin, are transparent. These transparent areas were initially marked white in LR 3.6. and, most importantly, it was readily possible to modify these areas with the brush or repair tools in LR. After updating to LR5 and importing my LR 3.6 libraries I realised that all of the retouche and modified transparent areas are white again and all the retouch I did is gone, where by e.g. the circles indicating where I used the repair tool are still in place.
How can I retrieve and retain the modifications I made in LR 3.6?
How can I turn transparent areas in TIFs within LR into areas I can modify?
LR3.4.I have a whole selection of photos that were taken at an event where there was 2 types of lighting, so the people in the back of the shots have a warm orangey glow and the people at the front have the day light. What would be ideal option to adjust the white balance on 2 separate areas, but I can't seem to find this in Lightroom? is it possible or will I need to export 2 versions and merge in photoshop etc?
I am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.
Their order is:
Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background.
Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print.
I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3.
In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi. In step 3, I crop only to get the child then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result.
I would like to ask a question about architectural photography lighting and retouching techniques. You can see some sample sites below: URL.....
These photos are very impressive and possibly taken as HDR.The question is; this transformation can be possible just photoshop retouching even using light? It looks like 3D rendering or PS drawing but we don't sure. Is it Photoshop Plug-In or what kind of technique is it?
We all know the illustration in the glossy car brochure has been enhanced - before Pshop days it was done by film retouches. I admire that work and would like to achieve similar results - making my car photos more like 'glamor' shots or 'studio' shots, starting with pictures of my own vintage car a 1936 Ford.
So far I've struck out on searching the web for techniques specific to this task, probably because I'm not using the best search terms. Automobile glamor retouching, or vehicle retouching was no luck.
Is there a specific name for this kind of retouching/enhancing/studio look? If I had a clue as to whether it's a recognizable trade or specific job I might be able to follow that lead.
Understand, i'm not asking you to do the work, just point me in the right direction.OTOH, if you do know of a site devoted to this I'd be very interested. I do remember completing a lesson in Scott Kelby's earlier 7 point book, where an automobile shot was improved, and that's been useful.
I want to edit in a complete non destructive way, so i work with smart objects and separate blemish removal layers. However, when i double click on my smart object to edit it in camera RAW, after i save the changes, my blemish layer looks like this:
On this particular example, i brought down the exposure on the smart object in camera raw and the corresponding exposure adjustment was not applied to the retouching layer as well. This defeats the whole purpose of making a separate adjustment layer if i have to make a new one every time i make adjustments to to the smart object.
On your face, there are about 20,000 pores, and if you don’t have perfect skin, it seems like half of them turn into some for of unwanted skin irritation, a blackhead, whitehead, rosecea, dry skin, flaking skin, and probably about 1 dozen other things that I have never heard of. Nobody likes these imperfections in skin, especially on photo day. This lesson is going to show you how to remove blemishes using gimp.
I have pretty strange behaviour on concert pictures I import from my D700. Usually I import with camera profile Vivid V4. The concert pictures have strong reds due to the flood lights.
My camera histogram shows a slight clipping of the reds (even though I underexpose 1-2 stops).
After import of the RAW files using Vivid V4, the histogram in Lightroom looks strange, and also the controls behave strange:
- a strong red spike in the histogram at about 1/5th away from clipping level (the picture in Lr shows blown out parts in red)
- hovering over different areas of the pictures and checking the percentage indicator underneath the histogram shows significant areas of 100 % red, even though there are still tonal differences in those areas
- moving exposure to the right: the histogram content left to the spike is shifting as expected, but the spike is growing and staying at 1/5th, nothing is appearing to the right of the spike (more areas in the picture are blown out)
- no other basic control can flatten out the spike, even not the highlight slider
- only the saturation control has some influence, and also with the tone curve I can fill the histogram, but picture is still looking blown out
The situation improves a lot by using Camera Neutral V4, the red is more spread out in the histogram, also beyond the 1/5th the highlight clipping level. Significant areas in the picture are still at 100 % but less blown out. Basic controls are behaving more normal, and it is possible to fill the histogram by increasing the exposure or other controls.
The question is.. is this unintended behaviour of Lightroom, or is is as good as we can get it with the strong red colors, and is it better not to use Vivid V4 in these cases?
Colours are being over saturated in shaded areas and less saturated in light areas when filled over an aeea. The colours need to remain the same saturation level when darkened or lightened. Is a setting affecting the saturation levels?
I'm trying to zoom a photo by right clicking but the zoom icon shows only in some areas of the picture (mostly on the left side). Everywhere else, right click takes me to the next photo?
We've encountered a huge problem with some JPEGs we retouched for print.Either directly after opening them in PS or after saving and closing the image (mostly the case) it's getting some kind of horizontal stripes / artifacts. Problem is, sometimes they only appear after saving the image, so we'd have to reopen every one a few times to make sure this error does not occur. Also, the images look abolsutely fine in the preview AND wehen placed in InDesign. Sometimes they're visible in the exported PDF, sometimes they aren't and we eventually find out when the product is already printed.
We're running CS6 on OS X 10.7.5 with newest patches and Updates. All images are HQ stockphotos from familiar sites.
I am interested in building an automated retouching system for a specific form of photography. The system needs to be able to handle a large workflow of images and create a look that is desirable and state of the art. I can see that there are a lot of systems out there that deal with portraiture etc and feel that if we could develop a similar system with actions for the specific work that I shoot it would be great.