Illustrator :: CS6 - Preparing A Logo For Printing On Black T-shirt?
Oct 10, 2012
I'm pretty familiar with preparing files for print in Illustrator and am currently using CS6. However, I'm not at all familiar with preparing files for printing on non-white fabrics (a black t-shirt in this case). I've had a hunt on Google but haven't yet found a simple answer to my question which is this:
The logo is red and black on a white background (shown below). How do I make sure that the white area prints as white and not "no ink" as would happen when printing on white stock?
There will be a small run initially, so will probably use a heat transfer method rather than screen printing at this point.
I've done quite a bit of research in the forums for a similar problem but not quite got any suitable answer. I'm running LR3.6 on WinXP SP3 with 4Gb RAM (3Gb useable). I'm trying to print 140 images setup on 7 pages each 16" x 24" JPEG size files (settings as below). Surely that should be a doodle? 2 hr+ later, I just have the "Preparing Print Job" progress bar doing nothing like it's expecting further input from me. No error messages, nothing, until I quit. Is there anything I should be watching out for? It's the first time I've tried to convert such a large collection to file and it's rather worrisome that I have these problems. case of "user error"
I want to get some designs I've done printed, the design are pretty simple block colors and shapes, Xara Xtreme 5 is brilliant for doing these designs. However the T-Shirt printers (spreadshirt) want to files a vectors graphics. This is what they say on the site
Transforming objects into curves Transform all design elements and text into curves.
This is possible with Corel Draw: highlight the part of the design you want to convert. Click on 'set up' - 'transform into curves'.; You may run into a few problems when converting complex pixel graphics into curves. Try to convert as few individual objects and colors as possible. Note: vector graphics for plot printing can have up to three colors per design.
Check the minimum size of the object After you've converted to curves, you'll have to check every element of the design to make sure that it has a minimum size of 1.5 mm. One trick for checking this: create a small circle with a diameter of 1.5 mm and lay it over the smallest parts of the design. If the area is smaller than the circle, it's too small for plot printing.
Save image as vector graphic Unfortunately, you cannot just open a pixel graphic into a vector program and save it in a vector format (.eps.) This is not enough. You have to manually make sure the pixel graphic has been converted into curves.
Can I just export as an .eps and it'll work, or do I need to convert to editable shapes then export?
I have a 3 color logo: black, PMS 200U, and PMS 1955U. The logo was built in Illustrator and I have placed grayscale tiff ontop of it. The grayscale tiff is a stipple (dots) effect that I colorized to PMS 1955U in Illustrator, masked it out on top of the logo, and set it to multiply. Within Illustrator, the separations look good and it prints fine when printing directly out of illustrator.
The problem is when I export it to a PDF/x1a and try to print it, it doesn't print properly. Printing from acrobat, it only previews and prints the PMS 1955U stipple and black. The flat PMS 200U under the tiff doesn't print. I've tried bitmapping the photoshop file and making the stipple monochromatic and still doesn't seem to work when exporting to a PDF and printing.
Funny thing is, when I do the whole process for the CMYK logo (not PMS), it all prints out fine as a PDF/x1a.
Here is what my artboard looks like. What I'm trying to do is just get the black shapes as one solid logo without the white showing. For example, if I were to place this in another Illustrator project, it would still have the white rectangles with full transperency. I tried a tut online, but when I place the AI file into another project, the WHOLE image is invisible.
If I were to open this AI file in Photoshop, I could use the Magic Wand to delete the white parts and leave just the black shape. I want to be able to resize the black shape and use it on banners, avatars, etc.
Background notes: I am using this for my gaming website and I would like to be able to use this for my logo. (Crossfire)
Computer is Windows 7 x64 running adobe CS6. The printer is a HP laserjet 3800dn the driver for the printer is PCL5 but it does the same thing printing with the Postscript driver. We have a navy blue color that prints out black for some reason. In the print options right before releasing the job we changed the use Illustrator colors to use Post script colors and it still does the same thing....Prints black where blue is supposed to go on the document. Doesn't matter if it is a .jpeg or plain text. Sending the job to a different printer works which is a Xerox work centre.
I just need to go from K and tones of K to a spot color and tones of a spot color.
I'm using recolor artwork because I can't merge into K. The art comes in from our customers as K so we can't just design differently.
The rectangles on the right are k and tones of k. The rectangles on the left are the results after converting to a spot color with recolor artwork. Using recolor artwork. I just need a way to accurately move the tones from k to a spot.
When 4-color process printing (CMYK), how might one remove the black plate from the process, but maintain the same "shade", or very close to, of all process colors?
Top swatch is the original. Bottom is the closes I could get while keeping Black at 0%.
For my business card design I have white text overlapping an area of very white grey- causing readability issues (insufficient contrast). It looks great apart from this one problem, so I still want to keep my white text and light background and fix it by separating the text and background with a darker drop shadow..
First, I added a black drop shadow to the text- but this was not enough to increase readability (text still looked faded on background as drop shadow was too subtle at 85% opacity, 0.04" blur) so I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow (100% opacity, 0.02" blur + 18% opacity, 0.02" blur). This produced a heavier drop shadow effect for my text as desired but, for some reason, the text came out slightly grey in print (offset run). It seems the drop shadow somehow got printed over the text itself to some extent- turning the white text somewhat grey (and so not looking as clean as intended).
How could this dropshadow bleed into the text happen? Is it to do with the fact I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow? I would have thought that, even then, the text should entirely overlap all of the drop shadow as the text is the top layer in the group.
What can I do to ensure that drop shadow does not print over text in any way in future? Do I have to stick to only one layer of dropshadow-or is there something else I'm missing?
A client has asked for an advert to be reset for magazine publication. For various reasons I am preparing it in Illustrator CC (mainly that I am more comfortable with Illustrator and it contains some reasonably complex effects and blending options). Anyway the time has come to send it to the printers and I have that heavy feeling that all is not well! The Publisher is asking for a PDF
There are two gradients within the artwork, the entire background is a photograph blending into a Black gradient (the body text sits in white over the black). To get the right effect the black gradient overlay has blending option - Multiply on it and being concerned it may not print propery or have transparency issues I chickened out and justt created one whole background image in PS (photo, gradient and all) and just imported it as a single jpeg back into Illustrator (ensuring I was working in CMYK).
But there is also an outer glow and drop shadow on some white text that sits over the Photograph. Do I need to flatten the image manually before creating the PDF? Or does the creation of the PDF do this for you? When I manually do this it displays correctly providing I tick Preserve Alpha transparency.
I work in Illustrator CC, the publisher has asked for Pass4Press Ver 9, but this preset is for Illustrator CS3. Are there no updates? and indeed does it really matter?
Using Acad LT 2014, Win8. Using stb plot style. I also tried printing from my Win7 laptop, same result. Does not appear to be a Windows8 issue.
I am having something odd happening, I think it is new with 2014.
I noticed that my lines are not actually printing as black, but rather a very dark brown or almost black.
I have a stb style (Bk 1.00), Color = black, screening 100, and for some reason it's not really printing full black.
One layer (A-Elev-Maj) is set for color 132, but the plot style is Bk 1.00. It prints on my Canon Pixma and on pdf as very dark brown.
I have another layer (A-Fill-Bk) set to color 0,0,0, and also plot style Bk 1.00, and it prints dead black.
I tried making the A-Elev-Maj layer 0,0,0 and it still prints an "almost" black.
I checked in the stb file, it is really set to black. I tried 250, as well as 0,0,0 and go the same result.
Attached pdf. You can look at the fence railing or the triangle chimney cap to see the comparison of the A-Fill-Bk which is printing actual black and surronding lines which are "almost" black. Zoom in and you can see it.
I have a simple JPG file that is a black and white logo, which I want to change the colour properties of in Gimp. But the colour range isn't true black and white, so using all sort of different methods such as magic wand selection, colour to alpha etc results in either really messy looking images or a lot of faffing around to correct the final image.
I have finally finished my logo for my friends small business, and want to save the document to a disk for the printer. I am using photoshop cs2. Should I save the document as an eps file for the print shop? I am completely clueless as to how to save my logo to a disk for the printer, so I apologize if this is a completely stupid question. I would also like to save it for a black and white application.
I have created a logo however it is only 400x400 and I need it to be 2 feet by 2 feet. How do I make it so that I can enlarge the logo without having to completely recreate it?
I like to do some freelance Photoshop projects once in a while. Lasts months has been more . Now i made a logo for a restaurant which they want to print as a vinyl sticker for on their windows. I send this logo to the printing company, but they asked me for a seperate outline-file, because the sticker will be contoured cut around the logo. But in Photoshop i cannot seem to find a method to make a outline file.
I am new to the forum and new to CorelDRAW X5. I use CorelDRAW to laser engrave text and logos through an engraving machine. Most basic logos are easy to convert right through CorelDRAW, but today I ran into a serious issue.
I received a logo that was very detailed in color and also had numerous different shadows in it. When automatically switching to black and white, the colors get very warped and the shadows take over the entire logo.
How do you go about switching a logo like this to black and white?
I am saving a PDF from Illustrator CS4 that contains only 100% black text. My print provider is telling me that the text in the PDF has been converted to 4C, rich black. I have tried all different PDF creation settings (high quality, press quality, PDFX3, default) from Illustrator but nothing works. How can I create a PDF that maintains 100% black and prevents it from converting to process black?
I created an ad in color but might possibly be required to provide it in black and white also. However, The file contains an image that's in color. So I need to know if there is an option to print the file to PDF in black and white? I tried changed the settings many times to no avail. I'm using DP7.
CS6 on imac and canon MG6150 printer.When I print a photo with areas of black the result looks like the black has been solarized and it prints out as a dirty grey with black edges.
I have PS CS6 and like to do B & W prints. I print them on my Canon MX870 printer (4 color printer) ... they turn out quite nice. VERY Black & White. Recently, I started doing B & W with a small highlight of color... like a photo of my daughter and her friends with just her red shoes in color.
The Black and White is now not truly B & W... it is slightly tinted ... purplish. I have tried adjusting the levels and contrast but it only changes the tinting to other tints... bluish, redish, etc. I use cmyk 300dpi (typical of what commercial print shops would use). Still no success. Or am I stuck having to send my photos to a printshop for printing?
I'm having a problem printing out a black and white photo. This is the first time I'm tring to print from PSP 3. When the photo is printed out, instead of looking like what I did in PSP 3, it looks like it was imbossed and black pencil. I have done a search and played around with PSP 3 with no luck..Even reinstalled PSP 3. If I go to the photo file, both the saved and the original, and print it directly, they comes out near perfect, except for a purple tint in both. You do not see the purple tint in the photo when in PSP 3 or the saved file untill it is priinted out.
JPG 102 KB 773x1000 pixels original size 72 dpi 8 bit depth Resolution 2 EXIF 0220 Off the internet Canon PM 620 printer Kodak paper No error codes PSP 13.00
I finally found a halftone printing solution to my HP 5100 tn, My problem is that if I set an lpi (any), I cannot get 100 percent black no matter what color pallete I use. Everything that should be solid prints at about 90% halftone.
using Windows 7 64 bit, corel X3 with Ghostscript 9.05
I recently upgraded my computer, and use the same AutoCADLT 2012 software I used on the old system. However, now when I print drawings or make pdfs, they are in color instead of black and white. And the pdfs in color now copy in such a way that some of the layers appear faded, are very light, and are difficult to read. How do I get the prints and pdfs back to black and white, with no color?
I have a drawing file of AutoCAD 2012 with different coloured lines. When I take a print using "monochrome" option also, I get my yellow lines as light black which I don't want. I want all the elements to appear as black of same brightness. What should I do?
Alright, I have a grunge vector I'm using in an opacity mask over my shapes. I need to convert my .eps grunge vector to full black, if I dont then the end result looks fine in illustrator...but when brought into PS you can still see light pieces of the object that the grunge was supposed to mask out.
When I click the eps file and use %100 black: instead of filling the grunge bits to black, it fills the entire selection black so I end up with a big black box, and if I use the stroke, it outlines the box itself. I tried making a compound path and also expanding the grunge, then retrying but no dice. Does AI recognize this eps file as one big square selection?
How do I get my .eps grunge vector %100 black rather than the CMYK black?
I've been trying now for about 3 months to print black onto a 30mm circle on transparency paper to go on an overhead projector, every time i print, it comes out a mucky grey color, there MUST be a way of printing a BLACK black?
i noticed that when i try to print anything that has a black in it it comes out looking greyish but when i print the test page from my printer the black comes out looking black.
on the bottom of the design page i see some thing saying
(Document color profiles: RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1; CMYK: U.S. Web Coated(SWOP) v2; Grayscale: Dot Gain 20%)
