When 4-color process printing (CMYK), how might one remove the black plate from the process, but maintain the same "shade", or very close to, of all process colors?
Top swatch is the original. Bottom is the closes I could get while keeping Black at 0%.
Illustrator CS6 (other users on 5)
Mac OS 10.6
I just need to go from K and tones of K to a spot color and tones of a spot color.
I'm using recolor artwork because I can't merge into K. The art comes in from our customers as K so we can't just design differently.
The rectangles on the right are k and tones of k. The rectangles on the left are the results after converting to a spot color with recolor artwork. Using recolor artwork. I just need a way to accurately move the tones from k to a spot.
I am saving a PDF from Illustrator CS4 that contains only 100% black text. My print provider is telling me that the text in the PDF has been converted to 4C, rich black. I have tried all different PDF creation settings (high quality, press quality, PDFX3, default) from Illustrator but nothing works. How can I create a PDF that maintains 100% black and prevents it from converting to process black?
View 12 Replies View RelatedHow the PMS color palettes "simulate" on screen how the color will print on different substrates (glossy vs matte vs uncoated paper). That's great for comps, but if you convert it to CMYK to print it, and the values are representing a "simulated" color it won't look correct (by that I mean come close to matching the spot color). For example, the uncoated palette simulates the color by making them appear a bit washed out on screen - pretty good visual simulation. But it might do so by adding black and cyan to orange for example, etc. - effectively dulling the original color.
So if I convert that to CMYK within the new Pantone + color palette, and then send it to the printer - it won't appear as it did on screen, it will dull the end color even more because it's converted the color to the dull simulated version - what a disaster! It's only doing half the job - showing us what it should look like on screen. In order to be truly efficient for design professionals the CMYK conversion might remove black and cyan completely to effectively brighten the color in the final output on uncoated paper. I would prefer it just stick to the standard conversion, which Pantone did have as a standard palette option (PMS to process), and then I can adjust if I think it's necessary.
Any corporate branding system will likely start with a PMS spot color palette for the identity. Then it will build into many different adaptations - full color brochures, large format banners and trade show graphics, website, advertising. So any corporate branding system will need to have PMS, CMYK and RGB versions of their main corporate color palette. There was a standard for these translations that was automatically consistent in the Adobe software and that is now all over the place, so it relies on individuals manually adapting the color mixes for final use - what a great way to screw things up.
I don't want a shade of the current color. I need a totally different color.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI would like to change the gradient on the attached to a darker yellow. How do I complete this change in color? I see that I can click on Color and an eyedropper appears but that doesn't get me to the existing colors so that I can change to bit darker yellow.
View 4 Replies View Relatedi have pictures due on the 7th this month. The only thing that bothers me in my picture is that I have a slight shadow out of my face (on my right). I have never used Ohotoshop so I dont know how to remove it. I have photoshop 7. I am attaching my pic and I would GREATLY appreciate if someone could list the steps i need to do to fix the picture. My girlfriend's picture is the same .. so Ill need to know the steps
Also if I could maybe lighten up the background ...
I'm attaching an image where the client has requested the dark background be made a bright color, #e48da8 for example, yet still have a believable edge from hair to background. I have made a couple of attempts which have fallen short. How can I replace that darkness with a brightish color and do it convincingly, given that the darkness comes into the hair quite a bit, and the edge is feathery?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have PS CS6 and like to do B & W prints. I print them on my Canon MX870 printer (4 color printer) ... they turn out quite nice. VERY Black & White. Recently, I started doing B & W with a small highlight of color... like a photo of my daughter and her friends with just her red shoes in color.
The Black and White is now not truly B & W... it is slightly tinted ... purplish. I have tried adjusting the levels and contrast but it only changes the tinting to other tints... bluish, redish, etc. I use cmyk 300dpi (typical of what commercial print shops would use). Still no success. Or am I stuck having to send my photos to a printshop for printing?
Right now I am working on a Win 7 64 computer and have a Canon MP810 printer. I read the materials on color management and set my color management in "Print" in Lightroom 4 to "managed by printer". My printer color management in advanced settings is set all to defaults. When I print a photo from Lightroom 4, there is a distinct magenta cast to the entire photo, but it's most observable in midtone neutrals. A burnt out section of a lightbulb goes white, for instance, but greys seem to go pinkish, greens to a rust, etc. I also printed the same photo from a windows file, using Windows 7 print mode. That photo seemed to go slightly magenta in the neutrals but not nearly to the same degree. what I might try or test to see if I can get my print colors more accurate?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI've been trying now for about 3 months to print black onto a 30mm circle on transparency paper to go on an overhead projector, every time i print, it comes out a mucky grey color, there MUST be a way of printing a BLACK black?
View 8 Replies View Relatedi noticed that when i try to print anything that has a black in it it comes out looking greyish but when i print the test page from my printer the black comes out looking black.
on the bottom of the design page i see some thing saying
(Document color profiles: RGB: sRGB IEC61966-2.1; CMYK: U.S. Web Coated(SWOP) v2; Grayscale: Dot Gain 20%)
I'm trying to change a template from black, to a shade of blue. Rather than just filling everything in and having it look choppy, I'm selecting each pixel with the global Magic Wand and matching the exact transparency. Is there a more efficient way to do this? A plugin, maybe?
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhat is the best way to convert a color photo to black and white for commercial printing.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI am having some difficulties when printing via dwg to pdf a rendered shade plot viewport in a layout. However, there is no problem using realistic shade plot. I am using the following materials: Metal | Alumininum (Anodized Blue, Anodized Blue-Gray), Plastic and Glass and the result is not good as all. I am also looking on a tutorial on strategic place to place light for even more realistic rendering.
Examples.dwg
Example Rendered.pdf
Example Realistic.pdf
I have a problem with CorelDraw X6.
When printing 100% black on laser printer the Black is all in raster. Very strange because the same file printed from X4 /same PC and same printer/ is OK and is not in raster.
Probably the problem is somewere in X6.
I don't belive that the problem is in the color management because it's the same as my X5 and there all is OK too.
Computer is Windows 7 x64 running adobe CS6. The printer is a HP laserjet 3800dn the driver for the printer is PCL5 but it does the same thing printing with the Postscript driver. We have a navy blue color that prints out black for some reason. In the print options right before releasing the job we changed the use Illustrator colors to use Post script colors and it still does the same thing....Prints black where blue is supposed to go on the document. Doesn't matter if it is a .jpeg or plain text. Sending the job to a different printer works which is a Xerox work centre.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI'm pretty familiar with preparing files for print in Illustrator and am currently using CS6. However, I'm not at all familiar with preparing files for printing on non-white fabrics (a black t-shirt in this case). I've had a hunt on Google but haven't yet found a simple answer to my question which is this:
The logo is red and black on a white background (shown below). How do I make sure that the white area prints as white and not "no ink" as would happen when printing on white stock?
There will be a small run initially, so will probably use a heat transfer method rather than screen printing at this point.
I am using CS6. I have created some text with a gradient fill. I have converted it to shapes before addin the Fill. I appear to get a slight black shadow arround the letters. This appears to get worse when I Export it to png with a transparent background. This black shadow is not a stoke that I have added.
How can I remove this black effect?
parrot green shade of cmyk or rgb or any pantone shade.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI increased my document from 8.5"x11" to 22"x34" and a black line of the original document remains. It is not selectable - the word "x page" appears when my cursor hovers on it. I'm working in C6.
View 4 Replies View RelatedSomehow I've turned off the color selection so that I don't have a color when I select a part of a drawing on a layer. The drawing area stays black whether I have selected it or not and I don't know how to turn back on the color.
how I can turn on the color again so that when I select a line it changes from black to red or magenta or whatever?
For my business card design I have white text overlapping an area of very white grey- causing readability issues (insufficient contrast). It looks great apart from this one problem, so I still want to keep my white text and light background and fix it by separating the text and background with a darker drop shadow..
First, I added a black drop shadow to the text- but this was not enough to increase readability (text still looked faded on background as drop shadow was too subtle at 85% opacity, 0.04" blur) so I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow (100% opacity, 0.02" blur + 18% opacity, 0.02" blur). This produced a heavier drop shadow effect for my text as desired but, for some reason, the text came out slightly grey in print (offset run). It seems the drop shadow somehow got printed over the text itself to some extent- turning the white text somewhat grey (and so not looking as clean as intended).
How could this dropshadow bleed into the text happen? Is it to do with the fact I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow? I would have thought that, even then, the text should entirely overlap all of the drop shadow as the text is the top layer in the group.
What can I do to ensure that drop shadow does not print over text in any way in future? Do I have to stick to only one layer of dropshadow-or is there something else I'm missing?
With the burn tool one can use it several ways. The direct way is to just click on the tool and select whether you want highlights, mid-tones, or shadows. Each option changes the burn shade slightly. Also there are a host of blend modes which again changes the burn shade.
One can also create a burn layer and change blend modes, all with different effects. Then you can also use the brush tool and select color burn or color dodge, with the foreground color changing the shade of the burn.So all of these options give a great deal of control, but frankly I am just burned out on the process.
All I want is to have the burn deepen the color to more closely match the color in the shadows of the picture. It seems to work better on flesh and soft colors than on bright colors. In those cases I give up and resort to a brush in normal mode with color selected by eyedropper. But that can make the image more muddy as it covers up rather than intensify.
So wilh all the man-years of experience out there is there a more simple way to get the correct burn shade than going though 49 different variations? Or should I just stick with the brush and use a different blend mode?
Using Acad LT 2014, Win8. Using stb plot style. I also tried printing from my Win7 laptop, same result. Does not appear to be a Windows8 issue.
I am having something odd happening, I think it is new with 2014.
I noticed that my lines are not actually printing as black, but rather a very dark brown or almost black.
I have a stb style (Bk 1.00), Color = black, screening 100, and for some reason it's not really printing full black.
One layer (A-Elev-Maj) is set for color 132, but the plot style is Bk 1.00. It prints on my Canon Pixma and on pdf as very dark brown.
I have another layer (A-Fill-Bk) set to color 0,0,0, and also plot style Bk 1.00, and it prints dead black.
I tried making the A-Elev-Maj layer 0,0,0 and it still prints an "almost" black.
I checked in the stb file, it is really set to black. I tried 250, as well as 0,0,0 and go the same result.
Attached pdf. You can look at the fence railing or the triangle chimney cap to see the comparison of the A-Fill-Bk which is printing actual black and surronding lines which are "almost" black. Zoom in and you can see it.
When I print RGB documents from AI CS6 (and earlier ai versions as well) to an Epson Photo 2200, the color is wrong. In order to print decent color, I must copy the ai files to Photoshop (at 300+ dpi) and print from there. Only then is the color good (as expected). I am using Adobe RGB (1998) as my document color space, and being very careful to allow ai/ps to manage color, matching the driver with the proper print speed, stock, etc, using Epson's paper-specific ICC profiles for each print.
What is it about the way ai sends color to a printer that is so "wrong?"
MacPro 2008 3,1; Mac OS 10.6.8; 18 BG Ram
I have a group of several objects – text box; rule line and some colored rectangles that act as jigs for someone to develop a layout. I do not want the jigs to print. Is there a way to suppress printing for just certain objects or make certain colors non-printing? Note: Non-printing layers will not work because the grouped objects puts everything on the same layer and I need the text and rule lines to print.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI would like to be able to shade certain rooms on a floor plan but still be able to read the text underneath.
Just a pale pastel shade on say the bathroom would be grand.
My problem is Adobe Illustrator will not print certain parts of a flyer I created in color. The Left side picture prints ok but the text "Art Department" prints in b&w.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm using Ai CS6 64bit now on windows 8, and I have a problem with the black and grey colors, because they look like brown variations...In the past I hadn't similar problems, but recently I changed my notebook to an Asus KB56, from Acer.
I attached the 1st picture to show exactly what is the problem, the colors should to be all black, but they are brown...The second picture shows them in paint, which works perfect...
I work in a studio where we use a DNG workflow - delivering DNG files to prepress. We are currently upgrading to LR4 to support some new cameras. Long story short, our prepress provider is using PSCS5 (and ACR 6.7) which means we'll need to keep our work in process 2010 for the forseeable future.
Given that I'll be sticking with process 2010 for a while, is there a way to turn off/disable the little exclamation point version warning?
