GIMP :: Image Won't Save As GBR After Changing Mode To Grayscale?
Oct 3, 2011
i'm using gimp 2.6.11 on a windows 7 enterprise machine. I made some brushes in rbg mode and saved as gbr, and also converted some ps brushes by exporting an abr as a png in rbg mode then saving as gbr. my goal is to get a gbr brush that i can change the color to the foreground color. I tried changing the mode from rgb to greyscale but when i try to re-save as gbr i get an error message that brushes can only be saved in greyscale or rgba (!).
i've tried saving the gbr as a png, changing the mode to greyscale and then saving as gbr but i get the same error message.
Any good skin texture brushes for gimp that can be used with foreground color? It's for a digital portrait of a male so I need an orangepeel texture and some other skin textures that aren't too airbrushed.
I use Photoshop LE 5.0, which has many of the BIG Photoshop features.
If I take a web page screenshot and turn it into greyscale and print that, I still get some colors coming thru on the printout, even though it looks b/w on the screen.
Is this a common problem? Photoshop or Printer or Windows?
I downloaded an image of the internet to edit [URL]......
Because I want to edit the base and put clothes on it and such. I opened the image in gimp and added the lines for the clothes on multiple layers. I went in to color it and the color showed up grey, any color i used turned out to be grey. Then I looked up at where they put the name of the image and it says: (greyscale, 6 layers) I assume that why i cant color it. is their any way to change this so i can add and edit color?
I need to transform a selection of ranges of grayscale image in colors. For example: using GSM of a gray scale image as a parameter I want to recode pixels from 0 to 20 in red, 21 to 40 in orange, 41 to 60 in yellow and so forth... until pixel valued 256 in GSM.
I'm new to GIMP. I've used Adobe Photoshop for years an years and no longer have access to the license. So I've been giving GIMP a test drive for a little while. I'm confused as to why when I apply a filter to my image or layer it changes the color to B/W or grayscale? I'm sure this is a relatively easy fix, but most filters I'm using don't have many options and I can't seem to apply the filter "as is". It always changes my whole graphic to grayscale. See "Before & After" attachments.
I've had gimp for quite awhile now and ive never come across this problem before. im trying to use the layer mask with greyscale and inverted image just as i always have. but when i go to edit my color i get grey! ive always been able to change colors this way! i know that the mode is set to rgb. im on the correct layer. ive closed it. ive restarted my laptop.
If i click on the transparency part i get a big blob of color as i should. but on the mask it does what its supposed to but in shades of grey. i dont understand whats wrong! it always worked perfectly. . .
newest Gimp windows 7
Only thing that i have changed is i have a new tablet but i still have the problem without the tablet
I have an image that has elements pasted in from PNG files, and those elements have some shades of green. I want printed output in gray scale only, so I did Image -> Mode->Grayscale. The image on screen went gray as I wanted. When I print it, however, I get an image in which *some* of the colored parts still are colored!
How do I quickly separate an image's channels into grayscale layers? I'll need to do this frequently, so is there an automated way? If there isn't, can it be done with python scripting? Would it take me a long time to learn how to write such a script assuming I know a bit of Python (as used in Blender), but haven't done any scripting with GIMP?
Have just bought Elements 12. When editing image in raw mode I cannot change size of image using ALT in combination with the mouse scroll button like I could in Elements 8. Clicking plus and minus signs is clumsy and slower
My image is in grayscale though it's recognised as RGB. It contains structures in white which I would like to fill with a colour. So basically, I'd like for all the white in the image to show up as e.g. red.
How do I do that? I'm guessing it must be possible to have a red layer and somehow this will then fill the white, but I'm getting confused with background and foreground filling options and I don't know which transparency options I have to choose.
I want to change the size of the image in Gimp to 3957x4429 px (67x75 cm) at a 150dpi (the image we have has a 300 dpi.) When i do this in image - print size it keeps changing the width.
The system is not allowing me to get the picture a few cm larger. Is there any way I can overwrite this?
I have a problem with this command : "Toggle composite and grayscale mask in Quick Mask mode"I know i have to press the tidle key " ~ " to activate it but i'm using an Azerty keyboard (belgium) and i have trouble with it.The only way i can use the tidle key on my keyboard is to press "Option + n" keys.
So in Photoshop, i load a channel selection, turn into "quick mask mode" and then press "Option + n", but nothing happens.If i try with "Command+Option+n", i open the window for a new document.I have tried ALL combination of keys but nothing worked.I have also tried to change the keyboard input to Britain, Usa, etc but it still doesn't work.
I'm using the english version of Photoshop CS6 (Subscription), and an Azerty Keyboard (Belgium) on a Mac Osx Snow leopard.How can i solve this problem ?
Is there a best setting for the mode, color settings, and color profiles when printing a grayscale vector illustration to a monochrome laser printer? I am making vector maps, and right now they are mostly black line and black text with only the K values in CMYK. There are some gray tones—for example water areas are 10% K, with no C, M or Y. Would it make any difference if I used RGB mode values at 100% (255,255,255), or a rich black in CMYK (such as 40C, 30M, 30Y, 100K)? I printed in K only at 1200dpi to a Generic Gray Gamma 2.2 profile, and it doesn't look too bad. There aren't many of the lines that are really jagged. I just wondered if there are better settings.
I'm using Mac OS 10.6, Illustrator CS6, and a Brother HL-5470DW monochrome laser printer.
I created a new palette in gimp using my original RGB image (containing shades of yellow and black) which gave me about ~200 colors (with interval=2 in Import dialog). Then I changed the mode from RGB to Indexed using the palette I created above, but the resulting image contains only 2 colors - black and yellow. All the dark-greys, light-greys and different yellows are absent.
I want my indexed image to resemble the RGB as much as possible but the result looks disastrous.
I have an image and all I want to do is change it to a different color. So if the image is mostly red, I want to shade it blue but still keep its quality, meaning the light-red pixels will turn light-blue, and the dark-red pixels will turn dark-blue.
I prefer an option that automatically changes all the colors for the entire image, but if there is a shader tool where I have to manually shade the image, that'll work too.
I input the image, then I went to Image > Mode > RGB, and from there I went to Colors > Colorize and used the sliders to change the image to the color I want.
So I am making digital color prints at 24x30. the photography work is about color fields and gradients, so I need super high res files. I have set the size to 24000x30000 pix at 1000 dpi..now my problem, when i go to save the gimp file as a jpeg i get this error message "JPEG image plug-in could not save image"
I am trying to produce a new logo for our business that has a solid Blue cloud image on a transparent background. I need to add text over this but ideally it will show as white over the cloud background but blue when its over the transparent background.
Cant simply change the color of text as its a curved edge its going over. I assume I will need to do some form of punch out but not sure how to start this.
I have a few images that I have saved from online that have an alpha layer in them. When I open them in GIMP, the checkerboard pattern makes it far too difficult to edit the image. When I try any of the obvious options for removing the alpha layer, the result looks awful.
How do I remove an alpha layer without changing the way that an image looks when it's viewed in an image viewer (or GIMP)?
I want to change the color to hex #00aced (0, 172, 237). I tried the colorfy, but the image comes out purple. Another way that has worked for me in the past, with white images, is by clicking on the channel dialog and dragging the red down. Clicking on the eye, next delete the original image and than add a new foreground color based on what color I selected from the palette. Of course this isn't working either since the image is so dark.
Now in channel mixer it could work if the RGB would go higher than 200, but since my blue is 237 this is where I am stuck. It has worked with other colors, as long as the RGB is less than 200. This is by selecting each output individually, for example, starting with red and entering a value in red and leaving green and blue at 0. Next selecting Green, entering a value in green and leaving red and blue at 0, and so on... Is there some type of mathematical solution for using the channel mixer, or simple yet, is there a way of making my image more white, without losing my shadows?
So I am trying to work with a web page template in dreamweaver. I am attempting to open the background image in this template with gimp, then paste over top of the Original image with a new image. Every time I paste the new image in it takes the color style of the original.
I.E. The original image is in shades of brown while the new image is in many different colors. Whenever I paste the new image (the image with many colors) it changes to shades of brown like the original image.
The same thing happens if I open the new image as a new layer or just simply copy and paste the new image in.
How do I bring the new image in without it changing colors?
First time using GIMP. Following the directions here: [URL] ......
Using, "Color to Alpha," I tried to select the background of my .jpg image. The background is white, the picture (logo) portion is silver. Because of the closeness in color, when I select white, the software selects the entire image to become alpha (transparent).
When I select the color of the picture, silver, I am able to select just the logo portion. How can I take the logo portion, which is now converted to transparent, and give it a black or transparent background, and then return the logo back to its former color silver. The logo is perfect, it is just that I recently switched my site from a white header to a black header and the image has a white background, so that does not look good.
The project is a photo montage. It was 4-color, now must become 2 colors. So I've changed each of the original 4-color photos (jpg and eps) into separate psd files (as grayscale/duotone/montage-and assigned it One pantone color)
In a new psd "montage" file, I plan to place each photo on its own layer, adjust tints, transparency, etc, to create one new montage/flattened.I'm not sure which color mode is best when setting up this new file, CMYK or grayscale?
Once the PS doc is done, the job will be saved as a PDF for 2-color printing.I want to insure the 2 pantone colors separate properly at press.
I don't know if I'm encountering trouble with gimp or pdf complete. I have 2.6 and I'm trying to save a 5x7 image as a 5x7 pdf. As far as I can tell in doing everything correct. However the pdf always saves scaled as 8.5x11 page with a 5x7 image so when it prints on the 5x7 paper it's tiny!
I have two questions about saving an image as a C source file.
1) In what orientation is the image saved in the C source (row-by-row or column-by-column)?
2) Why does GIMP only export to C source but not import? And as a follow on, any program that will read in C source images and display them?
Just to make sure we are all on the same page about which format I am referring to, here is an excerpt from one of the images I exported as a C source file.
I'm always cropping pieces of a large composition, then saving, then undoing and repeating. I noticed that GIMP has an understanding of layer size. If I could only save the image based on the layer size, I wouldn't need to crop every time, then undo. It would just know!
Aside from the redundancy, sometimes changes are made after cropping and saving and I am unable to return back to my original document size after exhausting undo's. Which means that everything else in the image is gone.
