I am having trouble colorizing a greyscale image. I actually did manage to do it earlier but can't remember how I did it. See attached the greyscale original image and the colorized pink image that I had created earlier. I tried inverting and colorizing but I can't seem to find the right setting. I also tried to create a pink layer and change the blend mode to color.
View 4 RepliesI am having trouble colorizing a greyscale image. I actually did manage to do it earlier but can't remember how I did it. See attached the greyscale original image and the colorized pink image that I had created earlier. I tried inverting and colorizing but I can't seem to find the right setting. I also tried to create a pink layer and change the blend mode to color.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to use colorize on an image, but it gets a strange color when the colorize window pops up and I cannot add lightness to it.
Without the colorize window.
I am starting a decal business and i have jpg's of all the decal designs in black on a white background. I need to batch colorize a bunch of images, i figured out how to do it individually and save but i need to colorize all the images in a folder and save with a different name. i found a great script to batch convert jpgs to pngs, and am trying to edit it to work.
i think just the line in red needs to be written correctly.
(define (colorize it DirectoryName)
(let*
(
(fileExtension ".jpg") ; we are looking for .jpg files
(varFileList (cadr (file-glob (string-append DirectoryName DIR-SEPARATOR "*" fileExtension) 1) ) ) ; find them all
[code]........
i have this black and white graphic below.
And I would like to change the white background to a particular shade of colour, say pink. Now because I'm not 100% sure how to do this I've just been using the paint bucket fill tool to change the colour. But as you can see below, that is not 100% correct as the shades of black that make up the graphic do not "add" to make up pink shades.
I would like the result to be this:
I know I have to use something under the "Colors" menu but am not sure where to begin.
Somebody want me to edit their picture where an orange tank top has to be changed for a dark blue color. That person did provide the specific HTML code # for the color wanted. Once the tank top is selected, how do you manage to colorize it to that very specific HTML color. Unless I'm wrong, "colorize" is the only function that add color to something without losing the detail of the original picture. All other thing you can use to change the color only add a solid opaque color. You can desaturate the tank top,open a new layer and add the specific HTML color to that layer and then reduce the opacity but...even thought the details that were lost are now visible, the color has changed.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a greyscale image that i would like to make different version of and i need to know how to set Colorize to have a certain part end up a given color.
as an example i have a spot that is HSV 0 0 51 and i would like it to land up as 24 60 82 (with the other colors in the image moving in similar fashion) what do i set the Colorize dialog at to do this??
part of my problem is the values in the dialog do not match hsv values (V runs from -50? to +50 i think)
is there a way I can colorize just the image inside an image box and *not* the box itself?
said image is PNG with transparency..so, lets say it's a photo of a zipper..I'd like to be able to colorize just the zipper.
I've been printing out a lot of black and white photos on photopaper on a HP Photosmart 7510e.
The printouts are very dark so I've had to boost the brightness levelsin GIMP prior to printing. The problem is that this takes extra timeand I also don't want to save these levels in the XCF file. I would say that (going by the Gamma Display Filter) the printouts are around40% of the brightness they ought to be.
I'm starting with a colour image which I can transform into greyscale ok, but I want to retain a portion of the image as colour........
View 3 Replies View RelatedSo... what I want to do is give every player a yellow-red shirt. What I did with the palyer on the right: I just re-brushed the red and yellow on a new layer above the shirt and set the layer-style on "color" and the opacity around 80%. So far so good...
Then I wanted to do the same for the other players... But I just can't get it right. Ofcourse the problem is that the greyscale-values behind the color-layer are different every time.
I had edited an image in a layer. It is a full color image. When I dragged & droped it into a totally different photo, suddenly it appeared in greyscale. The original image in its original layer is still full color. This has never happened to me before.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am desiging labels for a vinyl record.
I had a rough deisgn to i converted ot greyscale but then no option for dutone was available.
So I made a new greyscale file...import the layers i want into a new psd file made to be the right size i require.
then convert to greyscale and save
but i still have no option to make duotone...
With other files not included the layeres i have imported in it works but not with these.
Any method or, perhaps, a macro to prepare a greyscale image for 2.5D laser engraving?
The foremost items are lightest and the background are darkest. I've had a look at MacroMonster but couldn't see anything.
X5
I'm trying to print colour to my epsom inkjet but for some reason Illustrator keeps converting my colour image to greyscale.
Now I've been using Illustrator for years and this is a new problem I've not come across before. Is there something I can do to stop it doing it - maybe there's a setting that has accidentally switched on that converts all to greyscale.
If not then I suppose I'll have to revert to "turning it on and off again"!
Occasionally I select part of an image, apply a hue/sat adj layer, check colorize and attempt to re-create an RGB color on that selection....but it all seems to be trial and error, hunt and peck method of moving HSL sliders or entering numbers.
I tried matching the "numbers" to an HSL equivalent of the desired RGB color but not much better/faster desired results.
I realize the image has a range of tonal values so hitting the exact number overall is not do-able using this method, nor is it the goal (otherwise a simple paint bucket fill would work). But at least somewhere in the selection image I'd want to be sure my color is very close.
I tried using eye dropper color sample spots (up to 4), which works, but the process is slow and fiddly.
My goal is to be able to re-color/colorize part of an image to match an RGB sample color, yet leave the tonal range in the image still looking like it is part of the scene; including shadows and highlights and midtones.
Tried a search in the help file in Paint Shop Pro X3, but could not come up with anything. Is that an option/tool it has?
View 3 Replies View Relatedhow the shading/blending/colouring is done?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have an old black and white photo of a family member I would like to colorize. how is this done? ? I am new to photoshop.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have been tasked with making a feature/hole chart for a complex cast & machined part.
What the quality engineers want is color-coding of the actual features to denote which machining operation they are cut in. It's intended to be a quick reference for the machine operators to identify if there has been a missed operation, broken tool, etc...
What I have done in the past with simpler parts is import the .stp file, then FLATSHOT each of the views. I HATCH (solid) the boundary of the machined feature, then add the hatch pattern to a layer for the appropriate OP number. Callouts are added to the layout in paper space, and it's released for issue.
The problem with the new parts that I am working with is that they are MUCH more complex than the others I have done (50-60 machined features, complex compound shapes and curves, etc...), so using FLATSHOT results in many, many broken boundaries and edges. This has made editing them to get HATCH to work exponentially more tedious and time consuming.
I've tried to hatch by picking internal points rather than by manually selecting boundaries, but it takes 5-10 minutes for my machine to finish "analyzing the selected data" and almost universally fails to generate a hatch. When it does work, the hatch is incomplete, due to curves and angles in the machined surface.
The above method does work, but it's causing me to neglect other projects due to the time required. Any (comparatively) simple/easy way to accomplish this directly on the 3d solid of the part to speed things up.
I am using Inventor suite 2008, but I am not well versed with Inventor or the 3d capabilities of AutoCAD. I use Mechanical Desktop 2008 for the majority of my CAD work.
I am converting a photoshop doc to greyscale and saving it as an eps. when I place that eps into illustrator and try to print separation the eps is coming out in 4 color instead of just black. if I save that same file as a tiff and place it in illustrator it prints in just black. if someone else in my office opens the eps in photoshop and saves it again then it will print in only black. is there a setting somewhere in photoshop that i am missing that will fix this and allow me to save the greyscale eps correctly.
I am running photoshop cs.
is it possible to adjust the greyscale so there is a little color in the photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIs there a tool in Draw or Paint to invert a greyscale; in other words to make a photo 'negative' from a positive image (and vice-versa)? I seem to remember using such a tool some years ago but can't find it anywhere - if indeed it ever existed!
I've got a bunch of very old negatives and need to convert them.
Paint Shop Pro X2. How do I convert from RGB 8 bit to Grayscale 8 bit?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have several greyscale masks that I've downloaded. The only way I know to get the greyscale mask into a photoshop document is a method I found on about.com:
1. Open mask, select all, copy
2. Activate Photoshop document, Q for quick mask mode, paste from step 1, Q to exit quick mask mode, then click the layer mask mode icon in the layers palette.
This works fine, but is there ANY other way to get a save greyscale mask into a Photoshop document?
I convert a color jpg to Greyscale in Photoshop CS2 and it looks great on the monitor. Yet when I print it I get a lot of green tinting. I am using Windows XP service pack 2 and an Epson Photo Stylus 260 printer.
View 2 Replies View RelatedAnyone know how I can convert the above images into a
black and white/greyscale image?
Sometimes when I have an object selected and I go to select a fill color for it, the object turns a corresponding shade of grey, even though I'm selecting a color from the color picker.
Other objects on the artboard have color, so it doesn't seem to be a global setting....
Every time I convert an image/psd/tif to greyscale inside photoshop or in ACR my levels sliders and curves are inverted such that whites are on the left and blacks are on the right and everything is upside down (raising the curve on the black side lowers the blacks, lowering curve on white side raises the whites etc). This never happened to me before but happens every time now, I'm not sure what button I've hit to make photoshop do this.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhenever I use this to convert a colour image (or even a black and white one) to greyscale, the image takes a leap in brightness (gamma?), despite the Preview showing otherwise. I've used the default (set at 15% dot gain), even taken the sliders down to -200%, it makes no difference. How do I maintain the brightness when converting?
PPX6 (64-bit)
difference between lowering the saturation and greyscale.I've tried to remove some banding on a layer and the two versions give different results.
Original:Reducing saturation in 'Hue/Satuation/Lightness' to '-100':