I am converting a photoshop doc to greyscale and saving it as an eps. when I place that eps into illustrator and try to print separation the eps is coming out in 4 color instead of just black. if I save that same file as a tiff and place it in illustrator it prints in just black. if someone else in my office opens the eps in photoshop and saves it again then it will print in only black. is there a setting somewhere in photoshop that i am missing that will fix this and allow me to save the greyscale eps correctly.
I have a very large number of 4-color TIFFs that I need converted to 2-color PSD or DCS files. Before I do a whole lot of banging my head against the wall — or heavens forbid trying to write my own script from scratch — I'd like to know if it's feasible.
First, I'm not new to this. I don't need instructions on how to create 2-color DCS files from 3- or 4-color art. I do it quite often. Only I do it manually (using different methods, depending on the art).
What I have are hand-drawn illustrations, mostly black line with blue tints. The problem is they're 4-color. The colors are consistent — I have the same 4 tints or shades of blue plus black (or 3 tints of blue and one blue/black mix + black). I have no issues using grayscale + levels to generate the spot color channels, or Select Color Range and different percentage fills in those channels.
What I have is about a thousand of them — yes, literally 1,000 images — and I need them done as soon as possible. I don't relish the idea of going through all of them with the same operation, not when it can be automated.
So that's my question — can it be automated? What I understand is this is primarily a process that requires human intervention — a human brain that can decide "this, not that." Can I create an Action that says (for example):
set theColorRange to 67, 32, 23, 6 select theColorRange fill channel Pantone Black 4 U 40% fill channel Pantone Process Blue 100%
I have a b&w photo that I have added a spot of red to. I have done this in PS CS3. When I save the photo (as a psd) and import to Illustrator, and I try to print separations, the entire photo separates as cmyk.
Ok, I am modifying a graphic using photoshop CS, and I am creating a spot color/alpha channel on a greyscale image which I am then placing in Quark 4.0.
The problem is that I can't get the image to separate out just my cyan plate when I distill the Quark document.
Is there a way that I can save my channels so I just get cyan and black, or do I need to switch to a CMYK image mode?
I have several greyscale masks that I've downloaded. The only way I know to get the greyscale mask into a photoshop document is a method I found on about.com:
1. Open mask, select all, copy
2. Activate Photoshop document, Q for quick mask mode, paste from step 1, Q to exit quick mask mode, then click the layer mask mode icon in the layers palette.
This works fine, but is there ANY other way to get a save greyscale mask into a Photoshop document?
I convert a color jpg to Greyscale in Photoshop CS2 and it looks great on the monitor. Yet when I print it I get a lot of green tinting. I am using Windows XP service pack 2 and an Epson Photo Stylus 260 printer.
When printing separations, you're having issues printing more than three plates. I've got the OPPOSITE issue: When I'm trying to print only one or two colors of a graphic, it prints all of them.Example:I have black, PMS-A, and PMS-B in my graphic, but I only want to print PMS-A and PMS-B.I deselect black in the separations window, and that should be it, right?Hit print, and all of them print...black included.
I've tested it on multiple printers, and get the same results.This only started happening after my X6 upgrade.
P.S. I should add that when I take the same steps, and then print to file, it still saves all of the plates, not just those selected.
I just installed Update 4 for Corel X6 and now I can't print separations from the HP5000 printer. I can composites. When I go to print, the error message says "Nothing is selected to be printed. Check your page range and/or separations settings". It shows current document to print and separations to be printed. It will not advance to the print preview page. It printed perfectly before Update 4.
I need to print separations. I can export out and PDF and print from Illustrator, but what a pain. Should I just do a system restore and forget Update 4 for now?
I have tried unsuccessfully to export colour separations from Illustrator (CS5.1 MacOSX). I need the separations in an editable file format, but it seems like I am only able to print separations.
I have tried to print to a file with Output set to host-based separations but even that seems to be impossible. I get an error message "The save as PDF options in the Printer dialog are not supported".
The software is clever enough to do the separations, but somehow it can only print, not export them. Is there any additional software that would pose as a printer but instead of printing would create a file?
I've used this function forever in CS4. I switch to the newer and allegedly better CS6 Cloud. @@#$ @!#$ Why does print to PDF not work for color separations work anymore? I installed on 2 different mac computers with mountain lion. I need to get these color seps out for screen print. There's thousands of screen print designers out there doing seps in illustrator, how do I fix?
Every time I convert an image/psd/tif to greyscale inside photoshop or in ACR my levels sliders and curves are inverted such that whites are on the left and blacks are on the right and everything is upside down (raising the curve on the black side lowers the blacks, lowering curve on white side raises the whites etc). This never happened to me before but happens every time now, I'm not sure what button I've hit to make photoshop do this.
So... what I want to do is give every player a yellow-red shirt. What I did with the palyer on the right: I just re-brushed the red and yellow on a new layer above the shirt and set the layer-style on "color" and the opacity around 80%. So far so good...
Then I wanted to do the same for the other players... But I just can't get it right. Ofcourse the problem is that the greyscale-values behind the color-layer are different every time.
I have got a picture of beautiful woman. And? How to make a part of picture in greyscale? For exemple - arm. I selected this part and clicked on greyscale. And? The whole picture is in greyscale. Wh? I tried make a quickmask but the greyscale mode is not active.
Newbie question but couldn't seem to find the answer using the search fxn.
With the pic below, I want to have a greyscale background but have a colourful blue colour for the bunch of grapes. I am able to create the greyscale background by using:
Image > Mode > Greyscale
but I don't know how to add realistic colour to the grapes. The colour I add seem to look cartoon-like.
I had edited an image in a layer. It is a full color image. When I dragged & droped it into a totally different photo, suddenly it appeared in greyscale. The original image in its original layer is still full color. This has never happened to me before.
I remember using it once for my commercial job in older version. I think it was ver. 11 or 12. Today when I tried HC separations, black appeared in all plates and a change I noticed is that all the colors are changed to Pantone HC process. I remember it well, it used to be CMYK + Pantone orange + Pantone Green.
I don't remember about the black color if it was separated on each plate or not.
The prepping process should be really simple right? Separate colour layers, using Illustrator, then print each layer onto transparency sheets. Well I'm about to loose my mind.
The image is CMYK, its a single spot colour (I think) which is red and the outlines are black. Printer is a Canon ix6500.
I can't seem to separate the colours in Illustrator CS3?! Why?! When selecting Print > Output > Mode > it won't allow me to select Colour Separations.
I've tried to overcome this by selecting Printer > Adobe Postscript and PPD > Canon ix6500 series. This allows me to select Colour Separations, but then it won't print, it only saves it as a PDF, and prints it as is.
Is it possible to make spot color separations from blended shapes.
I blended a red spot colored irregular shape with a spot colored yellow shape and now want to output 2 film positives from my postscript printer. Unfortunately the blended pathes became process colors. I am using illustrator cs 6 on a Mac.
I am working with 16bit (Tiff) greyscale Heightmaps, images that displace geometry to create terrains.When I want to adjust the images I do it in one of several applications that return the Heightmaps with an altogether different range of levels (value of blacks and whites). However I have no way of matching the levels of the updated image to the original except to eyeball it using Levels. This is time consuming and hard to get right.
I tried changing the images to RGB and color matching them, which is kind of what I want to do, but it leaves me with stepping (similar to an 8bit image) because the range it is trying to match is so subtle I think. how to better use Levels to perfectly match (greyscale) images?
All other controls work fine until i use the grey scale tool. All other options/controls become inactive including close and minimize. I have to use ctrl+alt+delete to exit.
The main reason I use grey scale is to be able to use the arbitrary rotation tool. Is there away to use arbitrary without using grey scale?
I am having a problem creating smooth 3D images.I have been taking a 16-bit greyscale image with a various domes and other shapes with systematic gradations of greyness 'impressed' onto it. From this, I use the "create 3D mesh from greyscale" to create a surface whose depth is based on the values in the 16-bit greyscale image: this greyscale image becomes the "Background Depth" layer in the 3D image. I then add a Background layer (that exactly matches the greyscale image) to the 3D image, which will determine how the 3D shape will be coloured.
I then force ray tracing using the "Quality: " "Ray Trace Draft" or "Ray Trace Final" and the result is a 3D surface with some shadows. Okay so far, BUT the surface is a bit pitted, a bit ragged, not smooth, the shadows have jagged bit in - it's just not very good, in fact, it's unusably poor. Even if I apply some filtering to the greyscale image to smooth out any nasty discontinuities there may be in it, the final 3D surface is still pitted, with jagged shadows etc.
If I look at a wireframe version of a 3D image, it is clear that the resolution of the starting image is better than that of the wireframe image: there are several points in the original image to each point on the wireframe image (that is to say, each vertex in the triangles that make up the wire frame image is several points away from each other vertex).
When I look at the sample images in tutorials etc they look incredibly smooth and appealing. Why cannot I produce the same quality of image? Are there some settings in the Edit->Preferences->3D panel that I need to reset? Some way of increasing the number of triangles in the wireframe model?
I have posted a sample of the grayscale image, and a sample of the 3D image that this greyscale image produces when converted into a mesh. (I've saved them as JPG files, which forces the 16-bit greyscale into 8-bit mode. But the original conversion to a mesh was performed using a 16-bit greyscale image).
I am using windows 7 on an HP Pavilion Laptop, using OpenGL to draw the graphics.
Having problems getting the advance key to highlight in this area. I have repeated these instructions and problem still is not resolved.
This is the area that I am having problems with. To customize a halftone screen.
1. Click File Print. 2. Click the Color tab. 3. Enable the Print separations option. 4.Click the Separations tab. 5. In the Options area, enable the Use advanced settings check box. 6. Click Advanced. 7. Change any of the following settings:
•Screening technology •Resolution •Basic screen •Halftone type
You can set the screen frequency, screen angle, and overprint opt. ions for spot colors as well as process colors. For example, if you have a fountain fill made up of two spot colors, you can set one to print at 45 degrees and the other at 90 degrees.
