i have used batch process to make a whole bunch of photos one size. I need to create a single 'photo wall' jpg out of them in which they're all tiled, the long way of doing this is to obv open them all and copy, paste into the psd, then flatten, but thats really, really time consuming. If photoshop had any type of auto import & tile feature? I may have to do this a 2nd time with 1000's of images.
View 10 RepliesI have been using Gimp for a lot of "tile based" images, which feature layers composed of several "tiles" pasted into those layers. However, I just recently started creating transparent tiles, and pasting them.
One of the strangest things I have run into here is that I don't seem to be able to move my selection ( Floating Layer? ) if the opacity on the source pixels is 0.25 or less. Specifically, I do not get the usual "drag box" when I hover over the transparent pixels. Instead, I get the "anchor box" ( which seems to crop the pasted area before anchoring ). I tried this on a composite image with some more transparent pixels ( 0.25 ) and some more opaque pixels ( 0.26 ), and the "drag box" appears only over the more opaque pixels.
Why this might be happening? It could be that this is just context-sensitive cursor behavior which varies on transparency, and if so, is there another way to move the pasted selection?
Is it possible to ask Photoshop to save TIFF images using tile internal storage rather than strip storage? A little-known setting, a registry patch perhaps?
View 2 Replies View RelatedSo I'm trying to do a face blend and I've repeated the process three times in order to make sure I'm not making any mistakes, but I still can't auto blend the two layers.
Any time I go Edit, auto-blend layers it's greyed out which is quite frustrating. I've taken a couple of screenshots to illustrate my problem. I am using CS6 on a new MacBook Pro.
Is there a way to auto number files with the file number (less .jpeg) and save without having to let my computer grind to a halt, as it does using Automate, contact sheet. The objective is to create a preview set for distribution to clients with the file number annotated at bottom centre. Also, is there any way of creating the text/font/colour/stroke of my choice?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI'm really hoping someone might have an answer for me on this one. For the past few months, Photoshop has been auto-adjusting my images. The colors/skin tones look absolutely awful. I have had to adjust every picture to get a non-alien look to them, but they still never look as good as what was in the camera. Has anyone experienced this? If so, were you able to find a fix? I'm a PC user - don't know if that helps. Here are a couple of examples:
When viewing them in bridge, the colors look normal (pics on left side)
Then when I click on the picture (not even opening it), the color automatically changes (pics on right)
I have tried pulling an image up just through Photoshop, but the same thing happens. I work in RAW, but have noticed it happening to the JPGS as well.
I've been using Photoshop for my Photography for quite a long time and I have recently upgraded to Photoshop CS6. Whenever I resize my images in CS6, I get the feel (from looking at the images) that the application has autosharpened my images! I am quite sure about that effect because my resizing principles have remained the same since using CS5. And in CS5, whenever I resized to that same size I am resizing in CS6, I used to run the Unsharp Mask Filter to get my images look at their best! So there must be something going under the hood in CS6, or am I missing something obvious? Basically, I want to be in total control as to how much sharpness I want to apply to my resized images!
View 4 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop and Bridge CS5 does not rotate SOME of my vertical images. Most other photos taken in the same time frame and with the same camera display perfectly. Orientation is checked for display under Preferences, Metadata, Camera Data.
There also seems to be a discrepancy how Orientation is described under Metadata for those images which DO auto rotate : sometimes it is -90 (which is how I hold the camera for verticals and which displays on most verticals) and sometimes it is "normal" even when it has auto rotated the image. I do not understand this difference."Normal" is also used to describe the orientation of those images which DO NOT auto rotate for viewing.
The photos in questions were taken using a Nikon D-300 which is programmed to indicate the orientation of the camera and has always been programmed to do so. I know I can manually change the orientation but we are talking about hundreds of images (I have over 10,000 photos in all; most of which display fine).What should I be looking for to explain and correct this issue?
I am receiving a bunch of raw scans and the first thing I need to to with it is cropping them into individual images. We are talking hundreds of photos, with 6+ images on each raw scan. Doing it manually takes time and might not be 100% accurate. One should think some kind of software was made able to do this automatically (PS plugins?)
I suspect I *might* have to resort to something other than Adobe * - but in desperation I am trying this forum anyway..! It would be GREAT to be able to just do this repetetive work in one batch.
Two images files I was working on are stuck in Auto import into iphoto. They will not import into iphoto nor can I delete them. Everytime I try to use Adobe or iphoto it try's to import.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI want to remove color from images to prepare them for being autotraced in AI.
Is there an advantage to using Image > Mode > Grayscale vs. Image>Adjustments>desaturate vs. Image>Adjustments>hue saturation and dropping down the saturation vs.
Image>Adjustments>Threshold for this purpose?
Do these all generally do the same thing, or would one of these result in a better job of turning my image to black and white with higher contrast?
I have hundreds of photographs to print ranging from 2x3" up to 8x10" and I want to print them all off on a 44" roll and cut them out individually.
All I want to do is point Photoshop to the folder and have it arrange the images in the most efficient configuration for printing automatically, allowing me to set the color management on the document and the dpi of the 44" wide picture before I print it.
I used to have CS5 on my computer, after which I used the CS6 trial, and I never had any problems when stacking images using Auto-Blend Layers -> Stack Images. However, I recently purchased a subscription to Adobe Creative Cloud and after uninstalling the old PS versions and installing Cloud, Photoshop freezes every time I try to stack images.
My computer has very good specs, runs Windows 7, and both the OS and PS are up to date.
I have 30 dirs, each of them with 4 thumbs in it. I want to make one big thumb of every 4 smaller ones, by resizing and fitting them together into square. Like
Thumb1 right next to Thumb2
below
Thumb3 right next to Thumb4
and then save that image.
Would you give me any direction how to do that? I'm with CS3. I did explore the auto and script options in the File menu, but still unable to get idea how to do that, if possible at all
IN Lightroom 5. I am in the Library Module, in grid view. If I select an image, after a short pause a second image is selected with no input from me and the sync setting buttons become live. I don't think that I have changed my settings anywhere.
View 1 Replies View RelatedA few days ago I updated Lightroom to version 4.3. Since then, the "auto save to xmp" doesn't work. It is checked, but I keep finding files that "have been changed recently". So not only that it's not auto-saving them, but it is also finding "new images" that "have been recently changed" even though I didn't open or edited them in the past several months..
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have a working "watched folder", established through Lightroom's auto-import settings. When I place an image into that folder, it is imported into my lightroom catalog.
However, if I put a folder of images into that watched folder (i.e. "James and Stephanie" is put into a "wedding" folder), nothing happens. I do not want all of my images in one single folder; that's why I have Lightroom, so they can be organized in folders but collected in a database.
I also do not understand why Lightroom wants to move auto-imported images into a destination folder.
I would like to drop a folder into the "watched folder" and have Lightroom import (without moving the image) into my catalog.
I was surprised to not find this issue in Internet searches; is it dreadfully obvious, or is there a better way that I'm not familar with?
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.
If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?
I have just moved from 7.0 to CS3 (and PC to Mac) and am currently trying to get to grips with the new features! Once which I love is the auto-align and auto-blend feature(s). My question is, is there any way to control how these features work? I have seen on some web sites people talk about 'fuzziness' sliders where you can control that if an object (pixels) appear in X% of the photos they should/shouldn't be included in the final image but I cannot find these.
My intention is to use these features to take photos of monuments and have the people who are moving about removed from the final image (I guess it's the auto-align that would do this.) I tried a test and took a number of photos at home but I kept moving one object around (a pen.) The pen appears in all the images but in a different location so it always appears in the final image. When I tried auto-align with a stack that included one image without the pen, the pen was removed from the final image. Given the first scenario (i.e. the object is in all the images but in a different location) is there any way of automatically removing it using auto-align or would this have to be a manual process? In the real world, it would be possible to take a photo of a monument with people in different locations but it would be much harder (or take a long time) to take one where at least one person was not in all the photos (there's always someone loitering.)
I have Photoshop 6.0 and all I want to learn right now is how do I take an image and make a tiled background with it? Please answer in the easiest way possible, I have trouble even finding the tools in photoshop. I can use Picture it and tile very slowly myself piece by piece, but I am sure that there is a simple way to push a button and have it done for me with photoshop.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI want to tile this as a pattern, if I follow the traditional off-set routine I will destroy the clean pattern as so commonly found on pages such as; this.
View 19 Replies View RelatedI've noticed that this background texture is used quite a bit as html background tile. I can't for the life of me figure out how to create it. Is it a filter or a technique?
View 3 Replies View RelatedDoes Photoshop have the ability to preview a texture that will be tiled?
For Example:
I am modifying a brick picture I took to use in SketchUp and want it to tile seamlessly. I can keep going back and modifying, then placing it in SketchUp, modify more, place it... until I get it right. However it would be nice to be able to see it in Photoshop.
the final image is in flash, but this effect was pasted from 19 different images rendered by some kind of "tile flip" effect in Photoshop.
View 4 Replies View Relatedi'm trying to get a bathroom tile effect. just a wall of tiles with beveled edges, texture and lighting. is there a logical or simple way to achieve this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have just got my web page backgrounds from various sites across the net. Now I need to make my own as the background I need cannot be found.
how to make tilable images that are seamless? A very long time ago, I had a program that would paint on one side as I paited on the other (making the image tile seamlessly). However I do not remember the name of the program and was hoping that PS will do it.
I followed the directions, went to the "window" tab in the top tool bar, went down to "images" then over to the next submenu. The word "tile" appears but it is grayed out and I can't access it no matter what I do.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a procedurally generated image (a bird's eye terrain map). The edges wrap-around (I can tile the image without seams) I applied the Sponge artistic filter on it, but the edges don't match anymore.
Is there any way to get a Photoshop filter to recognize the opposite edge's pixels so that it maintains my tile effect?
I'm using photoshop cs6 to create textile designs, and occassionally, (it hasnt happened with every tile) when i change the image size of my tile e.g. from 15cm sq to 10cm sq, then try to repeat the tile it forms thin lines between the tiles?
heres the tile repeated after ive changed the image size and you can see the thin lines...when i zoom in on the tile edges where the line has formed it looks like this....almost as if theres empty pixels that can then be coloured in.
i dont think its a problem when creating the tile because before i changed the image size it repeated fine with no lines, its something thats happeneing when the image size is altered.
I use tile on 95% of my jobs. It is a waste of space when I tile all vertical pictures because I do not have the choice of Tile Vertically or Tile Horizontally as on previous version of Photoshop.
I tried the different choices offered on "arrange document" and there is non with the vertical choice, unless you choose one that displays my photos some on one size and the remaining or two or three remaining, a different size to fill up the screen.