I'm really hoping someone might have an answer for me on this one. For the past few months, Photoshop has been auto-adjusting my images. The colors/skin tones look absolutely awful. I have had to adjust every picture to get a non-alien look to them, but they still never look as good as what was in the camera. Has anyone experienced this? If so, were you able to find a fix? I'm a PC user - don't know if that helps. Here are a couple of examples:
When viewing them in bridge, the colors look normal (pics on left side)
Then when I click on the picture (not even opening it), the color automatically changes (pics on right)
I have tried pulling an image up just through Photoshop, but the same thing happens. I work in RAW, but have noticed it happening to the JPGS as well.
After scanning a image that has a mostly white background, and opening it in Photoshop CC that portions of the edges had pinkish tones that was quite noticible. I tried to use the replace color from the "Image->adgustments" menu but found that affected small portions of the image as well.
How do I correct this so the background is white? Is there a correction filter for scanners like there is for cameras?
Well got some pics of my wedding, but some of them are blurry co'z of camera movement while he was taking those pics. And now I tried unsharp method + duplicate layer and set blending mode to overlay or soft light. It helps but not on very blurry pics.
I have multiple images. After correcting one image (master image with graycard) for correct color and exposure, how can I use that image to automatically adjust the other images?
I'm capturing television frames using a TV capture card, but the resulting images do not have the correct brightness/contrast and color values.
Instead of manually altering every image using trial and error, I'd like to take a "correct" source frame that I know is correctly balanced (such as a test pattern), and use it to correct my other captured images.
I've tried saving the source frame's levels and curves and then loading them into the captured frames, but this doesn't produce quite the effect I'm looking for.
So I'm trying to do a face blend and I've repeated the process three times in order to make sure I'm not making any mistakes, but I still can't auto blend the two layers.
Any time I go Edit, auto-blend layers it's greyed out which is quite frustrating. I've taken a couple of screenshots to illustrate my problem. I am using CS6 on a new MacBook Pro.
Is there a way to auto number files with the file number (less .jpeg) and save without having to let my computer grind to a halt, as it does using Automate, contact sheet. The objective is to create a preview set for distribution to clients with the file number annotated at bottom centre. Also, is there any way of creating the text/font/colour/stroke of my choice?
i have used batch process to make a whole bunch of photos one size. I need to create a single 'photo wall' jpg out of them in which they're all tiled, the long way of doing this is to obv open them all and copy, paste into the psd, then flatten, but thats really, really time consuming. If photoshop had any type of auto import & tile feature? I may have to do this a 2nd time with 1000's of images.
I've been using Photoshop for my Photography for quite a long time and I have recently upgraded to Photoshop CS6. Whenever I resize my images in CS6, I get the feel (from looking at the images) that the application has autosharpened my images! I am quite sure about that effect because my resizing principles have remained the same since using CS5. And in CS5, whenever I resized to that same size I am resizing in CS6, I used to run the Unsharp Mask Filter to get my images look at their best! So there must be something going under the hood in CS6, or am I missing something obvious? Basically, I want to be in total control as to how much sharpness I want to apply to my resized images!
Photoshop and Bridge CS5 does not rotate SOME of my vertical images. Most other photos taken in the same time frame and with the same camera display perfectly. Orientation is checked for display under Preferences, Metadata, Camera Data.
There also seems to be a discrepancy how Orientation is described under Metadata for those images which DO auto rotate : sometimes it is -90 (which is how I hold the camera for verticals and which displays on most verticals) and sometimes it is "normal" even when it has auto rotated the image. I do not understand this difference."Normal" is also used to describe the orientation of those images which DO NOT auto rotate for viewing.
The photos in questions were taken using a Nikon D-300 which is programmed to indicate the orientation of the camera and has always been programmed to do so. I know I can manually change the orientation but we are talking about hundreds of images (I have over 10,000 photos in all; most of which display fine).What should I be looking for to explain and correct this issue?
I am receiving a bunch of raw scans and the first thing I need to to with it is cropping them into individual images. We are talking hundreds of photos, with 6+ images on each raw scan. Doing it manually takes time and might not be 100% accurate. One should think some kind of software was made able to do this automatically (PS plugins?)
I suspect I *might* have to resort to something other than Adobe * - but in desperation I am trying this forum anyway..! It would be GREAT to be able to just do this repetetive work in one batch.
Two images files I was working on are stuck in Auto import into iphoto. They will not import into iphoto nor can I delete them. Everytime I try to use Adobe or iphoto it try's to import.
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
I want to remove color from images to prepare them for being autotraced in AI.
Is there an advantage to using Image > Mode > Grayscale vs. Image>Adjustments>desaturate vs. Image>Adjustments>hue saturation and dropping down the saturation vs.
Image>Adjustments>Threshold for this purpose?
Do these all generally do the same thing, or would one of these result in a better job of turning my image to black and white with higher contrast?
I have hundreds of photographs to print ranging from 2x3" up to 8x10" and I want to print them all off on a 44" roll and cut them out individually.
All I want to do is point Photoshop to the folder and have it arrange the images in the most efficient configuration for printing automatically, allowing me to set the color management on the document and the dpi of the 44" wide picture before I print it.
I used to have CS5 on my computer, after which I used the CS6 trial, and I never had any problems when stacking images using Auto-Blend Layers -> Stack Images. However, I recently purchased a subscription to Adobe Creative Cloud and after uninstalling the old PS versions and installing Cloud, Photoshop freezes every time I try to stack images.
My computer has very good specs, runs Windows 7, and both the OS and PS are up to date.
I have 30 dirs, each of them with 4 thumbs in it. I want to make one big thumb of every 4 smaller ones, by resizing and fitting them together into square. Like
Thumb1 right next to Thumb2 below Thumb3 right next to Thumb4
and then save that image.
Would you give me any direction how to do that? I'm with CS3. I did explore the auto and script options in the File menu, but still unable to get idea how to do that, if possible at all
IN Lightroom 5. I am in the Library Module, in grid view. If I select an image, after a short pause a second image is selected with no input from me and the sync setting buttons become live. I don't think that I have changed my settings anywhere.
A few days ago I updated Lightroom to version 4.3. Since then, the "auto save to xmp" doesn't work. It is checked, but I keep finding files that "have been changed recently". So not only that it's not auto-saving them, but it is also finding "new images" that "have been recently changed" even though I didn't open or edited them in the past several months..
I have a working "watched folder", established through Lightroom's auto-import settings. When I place an image into that folder, it is imported into my lightroom catalog.
However, if I put a folder of images into that watched folder (i.e. "James and Stephanie" is put into a "wedding" folder), nothing happens. I do not want all of my images in one single folder; that's why I have Lightroom, so they can be organized in folders but collected in a database.
I also do not understand why Lightroom wants to move auto-imported images into a destination folder.
I would like to drop a folder into the "watched folder" and have Lightroom import (without moving the image) into my catalog.
I was surprised to not find this issue in Internet searches; is it dreadfully obvious, or is there a better way that I'm not familar with?
on getting a certain color out of an older colored photo. It is about 18 years old and I am trying to correct it. On the babies hair the photo has gone a weird colour that is brighter than the rest of the photo.
when I have a picture that just isn't right but I'm not sure exactly what it is I'll run it thru "Variations"...It gives me a quick color tint variation.. making it a little more obvouis which way to go in color correcting it.
Rarely use it for the final color correction but I do use it to see where I should go..
i just bought a new wide-angle camera, and there's this common issue that occurs in all wide-angle lens - whenever i take portrait/group shots, people who stand at the edges always have VERY "flat" faces.
In Photoshop 6, I knew how to correct red eyes pretty well. I just use the Circle Marquee tool to select the eyes and I just simply went to the Channels palette, select the Blue channel, CTRL - C to copy it, then went to the Red channel, then pasted it. And my red eyes were removed when I returned to the layers palette after clicking on the RGB channel.
I tried the same method in PS 7 and it doesn't seem to work that way anymore. Can anyone tell me a way to remove red eyes in photos with PS 7?
I was getting a photo ready to print yesterday and checked the out-of-gamut colors and almost the entire pic turned gray. :-) There was a lot of grass in the scene and the greens were too saturated I guess. So I unchecked OoG and did a soft-proof, and sure enough the greens dulled down a bit.
So my question is: Why fix out of gamut colors if they'll get "fixed" when they print anyway? I mean, there's not much I can do if the printer can't print such a bright green, right?
Also, what's usually the best way to fix them before I send it to print? Just lower saturation? Is there a way to select the OoG colors so I can lower saturation on just those?
I shot some photos (jpg's) outdoors with the white balance set on tungsten. I have access to PS CS and can navigate it pretty easily, but have little photographic experience and don't have a particularly good eye for color adjustments.
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.
If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?
