when I have a picture that just isn't right but I'm not sure exactly what it is I'll run it thru "Variations"...It gives me a quick color tint variation..
making it a little more obvouis which way to go in color correcting it.
Rarely use it for the final color correction but I do use it to see where I should go..
I tried following Scott Kelby's instructions for color correcting digital images in PSE 10. I was entering the values he gave for the R,G and Blue channels. I got off track and probably missed a step. Anyway, now when I try any of the auto correction features, my images look like film negatives and not like a regular digital image. How can I re-enable the auto correction features (levels, color correction, etc.) ?
Is it possible to just simply work with the highlights in a shot (for example boosting the gain), without having to work with selective, or masks, and without changing the color? Cause there is the 'wheel' for highlights, but as soon, as you turn it in one direction, you start to change the color.
Smoke 2012 SAP2 SP4 and Smoke 2013 SP2 (Smoke Classic Keyboard Shortcuts) Mac Pro 4,1 OS X 10.6.7 12 GB RAM NVIDIA Quadro 4000 14 TB RAID (Areca)
My director friend has seen me color correct images in LR with grace and skill, and wants me to start doing color correction for his films. I have never used Final Cut Pro before, and wondered if the controls in Final Cut were similar to LR, if you could export and import between the two, and generally what the difference was between working with color in each. He has one of the RED cameras, which shoots in RAW, so I assume the different can't be too great.
New to PSP and I took some night time photos of a car using long exposure, the pictures are clear and focused but they have that yellow-orange street light tint to them. Is there an easy way in PSP X6 to get rid of that color cast?
I'm shooting in RAW in Large with a Nikon D5100 if that matters for this. I'm not bothered how I output it as up to now I've just experimented on screen. No error codes yet!
I'm capturing television frames using a TV capture card, but the resulting images do not have the correct brightness/contrast and color values.
Instead of manually altering every image using trial and error, I'd like to take a "correct" source frame that I know is correctly balanced (such as a test pattern), and use it to correct my other captured images.
I've tried saving the source frame's levels and curves and then loading them into the captured frames, but this doesn't produce quite the effect I'm looking for.
on getting a certain color out of an older colored photo. It is about 18 years old and I am trying to correct it. On the babies hair the photo has gone a weird colour that is brighter than the rest of the photo.
After scanning a image that has a mostly white background, and opening it in Photoshop CC that portions of the edges had pinkish tones that was quite noticible. I tried to use the replace color from the "Image->adgustments" menu but found that affected small portions of the image as well.
How do I correct this so the background is white? Is there a correction filter for scanners like there is for cameras?
Well got some pics of my wedding, but some of them are blurry co'z of camera movement while he was taking those pics. And now I tried unsharp method + duplicate layer and set blending mode to overlay or soft light. It helps but not on very blurry pics.
I'm really hoping someone might have an answer for me on this one. For the past few months, Photoshop has been auto-adjusting my images. The colors/skin tones look absolutely awful. I have had to adjust every picture to get a non-alien look to them, but they still never look as good as what was in the camera. Has anyone experienced this? If so, were you able to find a fix? I'm a PC user - don't know if that helps. Here are a couple of examples:
When viewing them in bridge, the colors look normal (pics on left side)
Then when I click on the picture (not even opening it), the color automatically changes (pics on right)
I have tried pulling an image up just through Photoshop, but the same thing happens. I work in RAW, but have noticed it happening to the JPGS as well.
i just bought a new wide-angle camera, and there's this common issue that occurs in all wide-angle lens - whenever i take portrait/group shots, people who stand at the edges always have VERY "flat" faces.
I have multiple images. After correcting one image (master image with graycard) for correct color and exposure, how can I use that image to automatically adjust the other images?
In Photoshop 6, I knew how to correct red eyes pretty well. I just use the Circle Marquee tool to select the eyes and I just simply went to the Channels palette, select the Blue channel, CTRL - C to copy it, then went to the Red channel, then pasted it. And my red eyes were removed when I returned to the layers palette after clicking on the RGB channel.
I tried the same method in PS 7 and it doesn't seem to work that way anymore. Can anyone tell me a way to remove red eyes in photos with PS 7?
I was getting a photo ready to print yesterday and checked the out-of-gamut colors and almost the entire pic turned gray. :-) There was a lot of grass in the scene and the greens were too saturated I guess. So I unchecked OoG and did a soft-proof, and sure enough the greens dulled down a bit.
So my question is: Why fix out of gamut colors if they'll get "fixed" when they print anyway? I mean, there's not much I can do if the printer can't print such a bright green, right?
Also, what's usually the best way to fix them before I send it to print? Just lower saturation? Is there a way to select the OoG colors so I can lower saturation on just those?
I shot some photos (jpg's) outdoors with the white balance set on tungsten. I have access to PS CS and can navigate it pretty easily, but have little photographic experience and don't have a particularly good eye for color adjustments.
I came across a new tool in PS CS6, which has been introduced in this new version that can be used to correct converging verticals. I used it a couple of times in the past and now forgot its name and how to access it.
Basically it allows me to place lines on my picture that are supposed to be parallel and the tool them straightens out the picture intelligently without distorting it too much. It is ideal to correct edges of buildings that seem to converge.
I am familiar with Free Transform and basic Lens Correction filter, so I am pretty sure it was not one of these.
I don't really understand digital -photography- that well---which is quite different I realize than film. I'm trying to get better colors from a pocket digital camera (Canon Elf 310) which (supposedly) has 12MP. The pictures I want to take for the job I have in mind involve clouds and landscapes and I gotta take a pocket came because we're camping/fishing.
Anyway, they -could- be very cool but the tests I've done show that the colors are going to be just -wrong-. And by 'wrong' I mean everything either seems -under- saturated or hyper-statured. For example... the subtle pinks in clouds are rendered as washed out or will be overly contrasty (hyper) yellow to orange.
The detail is quite sharp, however so does that mean there's something 'there' there which can be properly corrected? And if so, how?
I am very new to Photoshop and I have a photo that has been in a frame therefore the middle of the picture has discolored leaving a circle which is a different colour. I am using Elements 9.
My lasso and marquee tools are automatically correcting themselves. When I try to use them and select and area they change (usually into ovals) or they will tell me I do not have enough pixels selected (when I've tried it with entire photos).
I am doing a project for school that requires me to "scan" some old books by shooting the pages with a DSLR-type camera. The setup is kind of like a poor-man's planetary scanner, but unlike a real PS, it doesn't have fancy proprietary software to "flatten out" the curves in the pages (near the binding and in the middle) that distort the text. Since part of my project involves processing the images with OCR into ebooks, I need the lines to be as straight as possible for accuracy's sake. I figure photoshop has GOT to be able to handle distortion correction like this, but I am clueless on how to do it. So far, I have tried to get close by cropping the pictures with a perspective correction, but the pages are still unreadable near the binding and in the middle.
I currently have my preflight set up to detect Overprint errors. When they pop up, I'm usually able to either fix it directly in InDesign from the Attributes panel or modify the source eps in Illustrator. However, I am running into a situation on this particular file in which I am getting Overprint errors on linked TIF files. It's not letting me change it from within the Attributes panel of InDesign or from Illustrator. What can I do to get rid of these Overprinting errors?
Im working in Civil 09. I need to adjust the surface I created in order for the contours to be correct. Right now I'm interpolating point elevations to adjust the contours. I find myself adding lines and adding and deleting points. It's tedious. I tried changing the grid spacing to smaller one. It didn't seem to work.
I'm trying to create a new family - a window with sill and lintel. In the attached file, I'm fine until I add the reference planes to create the fixed window frame. Prior to that point, all geometry perofrm as intended when I change the width or height of the window. Once the frame reference planes are added, the height change draws an error message. I've tried individually eliminating the possible causes with no success. What I'm doing incorrectly and specifically the steps necessary to fix it?