Photoshop :: How To Remove Spine Showing On Scans Of Old Book
Mar 14, 2013
I'm currently working on a project that's about a book printed in 1631. This book contains some illustrations that are on a spread. Because the book is old and rather special, the scans of the spreads show the distinct spine. Is there a simple way in Photoshop to mask this issue?
Using the Large Square Blurb format, text placed in the book spine does not rotate vertically; it is printed horizontally all scrunched up. Spine text is rotated properly in the Standard Landscape format, but I did not test other formats.
I am making a small square book in the book module. The book only has 40 pages and therefore the spine is pretty narrow. In the cover template, the spine does show up but I am unable to click into it, where normally on other books, a yellow box appears to input the text.
I wonder if this is not happening because the spine may be too small for text. Although I did make the text in Photoshop and added it to the cover as a Background graphic. The two issues with that is that it takes much too long to tweak it, and since it's JPEG file, I am sure it won't be as sharp as text typed into LR directly. I will be making several books this size and I would prefer having it be simple and just within LightRoom
I am doing a project for school that requires me to "scan" some old books by shooting the pages with a DSLR-type camera. The setup is kind of like a poor-man's planetary scanner, but unlike a real PS, it doesn't have fancy proprietary software to "flatten out" the curves in the pages (near the binding and in the middle) that distort the text. Since part of my project involves processing the images with OCR into ebooks, I need the lines to be as straight as possible for accuracy's sake. I figure photoshop has GOT to be able to handle distortion correction like this, but I am clueless on how to do it. So far, I have tried to get close by cropping the pictures with a perspective correction, but the pages are still unreadable near the binding and in the middle.
How to simply edit the text in the spine of hard cover, 40 page book in the book module? I can click into any other text window and edit and change attributes but I am locked out of editing text when it comes to the spine of the book.
I use the vanilla app and do vanilla things. Lately I have been interested in using some turn of the century public domain line illustrations, but often they are found with yellow backgrounds from the old paper.
I can knock the blotchy yellow out with levels and such, but I think there is probably a way to remove it instead of washing it out. I see that there are a few plug ins out there that might do the job, but I don't know if they are updated to work with the newest program on a 64 bit Win 7 machine.
Bonus question: Since some of the drawings are not the best quality, so vectorizing them has potential. I have played around with the trace bitmap tool on Inkscape and it is cool, but is it the best way? Is there a way to clean up a raster image without manually doing cleanup, or a plug in that lets it scale up?
I'm having trouble with the book mode. When I arrange two images horizontically on a page there will appear a ugly white seam between the images. When I arrange them vertically this seam do not appear.
I have a template (.psd) that looks like this..Now I can see the image height and width by going to IMAGE, then IMAGE SIZE. But what I need to do is see the template measurements (where the blue lines are) so I can adjust thing like spine width. I am so completely lost here. I have no clue how to do that or where in the menu to look.
This template was created for me by someone I knew, but he has since moved out of town and I cannot get ahol of him. A bindery has given me dimensions as follows: Spine width = 1-15/16" , Front cover = 6-15/16" , Back cover = 6-15/16" , Height = 10-1/4"
I need to adjust my template accordingly. God only knows how. Or maybe I can create a new template, but I'm lost there too. Yes, I have read numerous web pages and even watched some videos, but none have covered my actual issue.
I am in the process of making a photobook using Lightroom and discovered when I reached page 240 that I couldn't add any additional pages, much to my surprise. I was surprised because I knew from Blurb's website that the limit for standard paper is 440 pages and mistakenly assumed that this limit would also apply within Lightroom. I did more research online and found many others being surprised by this limitation after spending hours and days on a photo book. I will likely work around this by exporting from Lightroom to .jpg and uploading to Blurb, but that will take extra time and effort and reduces the appeal of using Lightroom to create a Blurb book. I had also tried exporting from Lightroom to .pdf only to find that the .pdf format exported by Lightroom is not compatible with the requirements of Blurb.
When my image opens in Photoshop CS 5.5 I can only see my image when I move it with the move tool and when I let go of left click the checkerboard reappears and hides my image! Can't merge 2 halves of a drafted house plan precisely if I can't see it....?
I am trying to up load a 40 page 12" x 12" photo book to Blurb from the book module in Lightroom 4.2. It renders the pages and then having rendered the cover gets stuck, about 50% to 60% through the process. None of the photographs are starred or colour coded. I have uploaded successfully from this iMac in the last few weeks.
is there a reason that, no matter how I position my arms and spine. the spine joints orientation is always in world space (pointing in x y and z) but my arm through finger joints orient perfectly the way I want them...?
does the orientation of the spine even matter as long as it rotates properly? I can just do a orient Joint command after the spine is made and live with any joint orientation.
I am starting a project and doing research about having the possible chance of making either a UV or X-ray scanner with the ability of scanning numerous 2d drawings onto a photoshop like software all at one time. While going to SJSU it took me a longer time to shoot single shots of my 136 page animation project than it took me to draw it out frame by frame... so I told my teacher David Chai one day-" why not build a cube with an x-ray beam and shoot my whole project all at one time?
" It has been a long time since Art23 and I still have the same dream of doing a full length animation- if it were to ever happen I would need a software with the capability of running a composite that would hold multiple frames scanned(30 perhaps) through a front and side x-ray or UV ray that can harness the depth of each individual frame being scanned at the same time. If I had software that could hold data from each frame... I believe I can work out my schools animation team ad well as move towards making numerous 5 page "final D" animation in a way make a full length film with my old crew Studio.
I scanned an image (settings: B/W adaptive, 600 dpi ) and came up with a .tiff file of 1474 kb. When opened with Photoshop CS3, and saved, the file size jumps to 38 mb.
How can I edit the file and keep the file size from changing?
Windows Xp Scanner: Contex HD3630, Using WIDEimage scanning software CS3
I am about to get a film scanner I have on order, to scan in 35mm negatives.
When scanning film frames, I like the idea of setting the scan area marquee, at the scanning stage, so that it scans slightly beyond the film frame edges, so that I can carefully crop to the edge of the film frame later, in Photoshop CS6, rather than setting it, at the scanning stage, and then later, when examining the film frame in CS6, maybe discovering that I have not scanned to the edge of the film frame quite enough, as I can easily zoom right into the image when in CS6, to carefully examine where the film frame edges are.
I may be reducing the resolution of the image. For example, say I scan a film frame in at 3600 ppi, and later crop the image slightly in CS6 in order to precisely trim off any slight amount of black around the film frame edges. By cropping the film frame like this in CS6, am I reducing the image resolution of the film frame to lower than 3600ppi? As I best understand it, I do not think post-cropping like this results in any reduction in image resolution.
I am receiving a bunch of raw scans and the first thing I need to to with it is cropping them into individual images. We are talking hundreds of photos, with 6+ images on each raw scan. Doing it manually takes time and might not be 100% accurate. One should think some kind of software was made able to do this automatically (PS plugins?)
I suspect I *might* have to resort to something other than Adobe * - but in desperation I am trying this forum anyway..! It would be GREAT to be able to just do this repetetive work in one batch.
i have multiple gang scans, some of them containing 15 images or more. they are scanned at 400dpi and are extremely large files i want to break the component images into their own unique files and save them as tiffs in exactly the same format that they are in now. i want to make sure i dont compress them or change the info in any way except for file size.
By default, PSE uses the Windows preferred location for this user. I have a folder that is easier to access, simply D:Scans, and I have to enter this manually, as well as removing the default to set up a folder with "today's date" every time I do a scan. I would like to modify these default settings. Surely those locations must be held in an installed file somewhere, and so if I can just edit that file I'd be very happy.
I purchased Lightroom 5 and am creating a photo book through Blurb. I accidently erased 38 pages, so after I re-created them, I clicked on Create Saved Book, which put it in Collections. Now I am trying to work on the book again, and can open it, but when I go to the Library of photos, Lightroom automatically repopulates a new book with all the photos in that file and won't let me put them in the book I saved. How can I get this partially finished book so that I can use it?
I am working on a rig right now and I'm trying to do the Isner Spine from the Body Language Advanced 3D Rigging Book.
I did the Spline IK with the spine and I have everything stretching fine but when I made the CVs into clusters and parented them to the controls, when I got to translate the rig, whether I use the Root CTRL, Main CTRL, or whatever, the spine translates twice as fast as everything else. The clusters and everything in the lower body moves normal and everything about the head is moving normal..
I know in other situations with curves you have delete history but I can't delete history on the joints and I can't come up with any solution. I can attach a file.. not all the controls are done right now and I haven't reparented the wings correctly so just ignore that.
how to fix the color on this photo. I have several more like it. They are scanned from photos that were developed from damaged film. On the photos where the entire image is yellowed I have no problem correcting the color, but I'm not quite sure how to make a selection on photos like these and then match the color to the other half..I am using cs5.