i have multiple gang scans, some of them containing 15 images or more. they are scanned at 400dpi and are extremely large files i want to break the component images into their own unique files and save them as tiffs in exactly the same format that they are in now. i want to make sure i dont compress them or change the info in any way except for file size.
View 1 RepliesI have this object (shape path) that is like a continous loop or ribbon. see below:
I would like to break it into two seperate shapes: a top half, and bottom half. I need to remove some between them though.
Unfortunately, I cannot make the scissor tool, knife tool or cut path tool work correctly. It just doesn't seem to work, no matter whether I have anchor points selected or not.
I have also tried duplicating the object and trying to delete anchor points until I'm left with one of the shapes. However, because of the ordering of anchor points, I end up with a blue line connecting one end of the object to the other.
I am receiving a bunch of raw scans and the first thing I need to to with it is cropping them into individual images. We are talking hundreds of photos, with 6+ images on each raw scan. Doing it manually takes time and might not be 100% accurate. One should think some kind of software was made able to do this automatically (PS plugins?)
I suspect I *might* have to resort to something other than Adobe * - but in desperation I am trying this forum anyway..! It would be GREAT to be able to just do this repetetive work in one batch.
I’m using Photoshop Elements 12 on OSX 10.9.1. When using several layers with pics on it, the pics break apart when i move them around on the layer… I get a mosaic of ’broken’ pics. It looks like a memory problem but it isn’t.
View 1 Replies View Relatedi've got a strange problem: when zooming images in the GIMP (2.8.2, installed from archlinux [extra]), viewing them larger than the size they are being automatically zoomed to by default, they break up into unconnected, rectangular tiles.
moving (panning) them around with the mouse so that they partially leave the screen brings those parts back to be displayed properly. means i have to 'swivel' the image across all borders to get it to display properly.
in addition, applying scissors or path tool leaves artefacts on the image that can be removed the same way.
i've noticed this first with the development version of GIMP (2.9, compiled from GIT) and thought those were the new GIMP's growing pains -- but then i noticed the same happening with the stable version (2.8).
i've tried switching to an earlier version of xf86-video-ati and to an earlier kernel, but neither rectifies the problem. i also tried different options in /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/ 20-radeon.conf, whith the same result, i.e., none.
seems to have something to do with the image being refreshed, or not being refreshed, but which part of the system is at fault baffles me.
i'm using arch +testing, and here are my system's details:
System: Host: laptop Kernel: 3.7.3-1-ARCH x86_64 (64 bit) Desktop: KDE 4.9.98 Distro: Arch Linux
Machine: Mobo: ASUSTeK model: K53SK version: 1.0 serial: BSN12345678901234567
Bios: American Megatrends version: K53SK.203 date: 10/11/2011CPU: Quad core Intel Core i7-2670QM CPU (HT-MCP) clocked at 800.00 MHzGraphics: Card-1: Intel 2nd Generation Core Processor Family Integrated Graphics Controller
Card-2: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] nee ATI Whistler LE [AMD Radeon HD 6625M Graphics]
X.org: 1.13.1 drivers: ati,radeon,intel tty size: 114x37
I'm getting a color shift only on small images (150x150px or smaller) when I save for web in Photoshop CC and CS6. That's very weird as it doesn't happen to images larger than 150x150px! That issue happens with images with different measurements as well (e.g. rectangle), the small looks dull and the larger display the right color.
My Color Settings are set to "Monitor Color". Under save for web I have the following options not ticked: Embed Color Profile and Convert to sRGB. (viget.com/inspire/the-mysterious-save-for-web-color-shift)
I'm running the OS X 10.8.4 on a macbook pro, I tested that on both, Safari 6.0.5 and FF.
The squares in the screenshot were saved exatly the same way. The largerer displays the right color #FFCB32, but the smaller displays the color wrong.
Why is Photoshop CC displaying images 25% smaller than my other applications? If I open a 72 ppi square pixel aspect image in Photoshop, I have to zoom to 125% for it to be the same size on screen as in my browser or any other image viewer. Photoshop reads the correct pixel sizes, but displays it smaller.
I design and build websites and have been using Photoshop for over 15 years and haven't noticed this until CC. If I save the images and build out the site, or even just drag the image into a browser and then overlay that browser window above the Photoshop window to see both images side by side, I can clearly see a 25% difference in size.
If I zoom in Photoshop to 125%, then the sizes match. So, the problem is when designing a website, everything looks smaller in photoshop. Then when I build it out, everything is way too big.
My browsers are definitely at 100% zoom and I can open the image in any other image viewer at 100% and the affect is the same. Is there a setting that can be adjusted in Photoshop to correct this?
I have bunch of images (starting usually from 50 to 300MB with layers)
I'm flattening and making sure 8 bit. Most are ending up about 48MB. but some are ending up 80 MB and others 15 MB. what determines these oddballs being so large or small after being flattened?
I am working on the logo for my company's website. Heres my prob. at 100% this image is fine, but every time I resize (smaller) I end up with pixelation / fuzz on a couple letters (Particularly the P).
This is my original, click it because otherwise the "dot" is pixelated.
This is my resize:
How can I go about sharpening up the smaller images so the text entities look as good as the big image? Is there some trick to resizing that I dont know? I feel stupid asking about this it seems like I know how already and just can't remember.
I have a design that is A3 size (i.e. 297 × 420mm) and 300dpi. I'd like to save out various versions of the image: one at full size, one at 150 dpi, one at A4 (i.e. 210 × 297mm) 150 dpi, and one at A4 72dpi. At the moment I'm doing this by saving different versions of the Photoshop PSD file and then doing a 'Save As' jpg from each of those.
What's the best way to save multiple sized versions of a design?
If I resize an image in Photoshop to be smaller and/or fewer DPI is that destructive or can I go back without loss of clarity? (I'm guessing not as the PSD file sizes are so different.)
MacBookPro
OSX 6.8
Photoshop 5.5
I have over 100 image files set at 1200 dpi and 44,000 dpi. How can I batch process all of them so I end up with a new set of images that are all 200 dpi?
Every time I open an image in Illustrator, it is 3-times smaller than the original image started out. For example:
An image starting out with the dimensions:
Width: 5.35 inches / 1070 px / 385.2 pt
Height: 5.24 inches / 1048 px / 377.3 pt
Once it is opened up in Illustrator the dimensions are contorted to:
Width: 1.93 inches / 386 px / 139 pt
Height: 1.89 inches / 378 px / 136.1 pt
And this is just from opening the image. I have not done anything as of yet. All I have to look at is a distorted pixelated mess. Why Illustrator is doing this to my image files and how do I get it to open image files with the proper dimensions?
I am making an image smaller (from 1200 pixels wide to 700), and no matter what I try it always turns out pixelated. I hate it! I just want the size of the image to get smaller without compromising the quality of said image. Here's what I've tried:
- Saving to different formats before resizing (TIF, PNG, etc)
- Changing the X and Y resolution from 150, to 300, even 900 before resizing. It seems to have no effect.
- Changing the interpolation from cubic to the others (the others ones all look worse)
I am at a loss! I am using "image/scale image" to resize, by the way. And the original image was a 1200-wide TIF. I don't see why I'm not able to increase the number of pixels while making the image smaller to maintain the integrity of the original image.
I can't seem to get source clips to Gang with the timeline in the record area, did we lose this? I always gang up my reference with my conform so I really hope we havn't lost this!
View 1 Replies View RelatedObjective: to show in an electrical plan view a 2 and 5 gang light switch box.
Problem; I have both a 2 and 5 gang light switch plates in separate locations. I need to show in an electrical plan that there are both a 2 and 5 gang switches in these particular location without crowding the wall with switch symbols.
When i open file with paint.net and click save sometimes it make it larger and sometimes it make it smaller. When the bith depth is selected as auto are there any chance that paint.net will loose quality ? I check that generally bith depth is not changing it is 32 bit but it is able to reduce size of image which have been yahoo smushed or pgnoutwin processed. How is this possible ?
Are there any plugin which will batch read images and save them if the new size is smaller without quality loss ?
"Contact page" when images get transported on to page they reduce in size.I have also tried dragging the pictures onto the page but they still reduce in size.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen my image opens in Photoshop CS 5.5 I can only see my image when I move it with the move tool and when I let go of left click the checkerboard reappears and hides my image! Can't merge 2 halves of a drafted house plan precisely if I can't see it....?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am starting a project and doing research about having the possible chance of making either a UV or X-ray scanner with the ability of scanning numerous 2d drawings onto a photoshop like software all at one time. While going to SJSU it took me a longer time to shoot single shots of my 136 page animation project than it took me to draw it out frame by frame... so I told my teacher David Chai one day-" why not build a cube with an x-ray beam and shoot my whole project all at one time?
" It has been a long time since Art23 and I still have the same dream of doing a full length animation- if it were to ever happen I would need a software with the capability of running a composite that would hold multiple frames scanned(30 perhaps) through a front and side x-ray or UV ray that can harness the depth of each individual frame being scanned at the same time. If I had software that could hold data from each frame... I believe I can work out my schools animation team ad well as move towards making numerous 5 page "final D" animation in a way make a full length film with my old crew Studio.
I scanned an image (settings: B/W adaptive, 600 dpi ) and came up with a .tiff file of 1474 kb.
When opened with Photoshop CS3, and saved, the file size jumps to 38 mb.
How can I edit the file and keep the file size from changing?
Windows Xp
Scanner: Contex HD3630, Using WIDEimage scanning software
CS3
I am about to get a film scanner I have on order, to scan in 35mm negatives.
When scanning film frames, I like the idea of setting the scan area marquee, at the scanning stage, so that it scans slightly beyond the film frame edges, so that I can carefully crop to the edge of the film frame later, in Photoshop CS6, rather than setting it, at the scanning stage, and then later, when examining the film frame in CS6, maybe discovering that I have not scanned to the edge of the film frame quite enough, as I can easily zoom right into the image when in CS6, to carefully examine where the film frame edges are.
I may be reducing the resolution of the image. For example, say I scan a film frame in at 3600 ppi, and later crop the image slightly in CS6 in order to precisely trim off any slight amount of black around the film frame edges. By cropping the film frame like this in CS6, am I reducing the image resolution of the film frame to lower than 3600ppi? As I best understand it, I do not think post-cropping like this results in any reduction in image resolution.
I'm currently working on a project that's about a book printed in 1631. This book contains some illustrations that are on a spread. Because the book is old and rather special, the scans of the spreads show the distinct spine. Is there a simple way in Photoshop to mask this issue?
View 12 Replies View RelatedBy default, PSE uses the Windows preferred location for this user. I have a folder that is easier to access, simply D:Scans, and I have to enter this manually, as well as removing the default to set up a folder with "today's date" every time I do a scan. I would like to modify these default settings. Surely those locations must be held in an installed file somewhere, and so if I can just edit that file I'd be very happy.
View 3 Replies View Relatedhow to fix the color on this photo. I have several more like it. They are scanned from photos that were developed from damaged film. On the photos where the entire image is yellowed I have no problem correcting the color, but I'm not quite sure how to make a selection on photos like these and then match the color to the other half..I am using cs5.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI am sure that this is something obvious, but I can't find the answer so I thought I would ask the experts.
I have a large selection of text, that automatically breaks half way through some words (adding a hyphen) at the end of the line, where I would rather it just start that word on a new line.
I have created a ribbon in Photoshop and now I need to have the ribbon break into small squares at the end of the ribbon. I am looking for someway that will take a part of the ribbon and break it apart. Does anyone know how to achieve this? I hope this makes sense!
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am doing a project for school that requires me to "scan" some old books by shooting the pages with a DSLR-type camera. The setup is kind of like a poor-man's planetary scanner, but unlike a real PS, it doesn't have fancy proprietary software to "flatten out" the curves in the pages (near the binding and in the middle) that distort the text. Since part of my project involves processing the images with OCR into ebooks, I need the lines to be as straight as possible for accuracy's sake. I figure photoshop has GOT to be able to handle distortion correction like this, but I am clueless on how to do it. So far, I have tried to get close by cropping the pictures with a perspective correction, but the pages are still unreadable near the binding and in the middle.
View 5 Replies View RelatedEvery time I go to save a scan it defaults to Bitmap and I have to then scroll down and select jpeg. How can I make jpeg the default setting?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI want to use photoshop elements to alter drawings so they look like quilts. I want to import fabric scans as fill colors and patterns. Is this possible?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am in the business of 3d design, and have recently been learning a lot about the software I use. It works best with square textures (512x512 and maybe 1024x1024). Some of the textures i create for my models are tall and narrow, or short and skinny. For example, on a 600 foot skyscraper, my texture may be 1024x4096. What I normally do is manually cut this image into 4 textures that are 1024x1024, and apply them to their respective places on the face so the exporter doesn't diminish the quality as much. (The exporter I use takes the longest dimension of the face in the 3d model and reduces it to 512px wide, and so in this example the short dimension would become 128px, which is very low res, imo).
Is there a script that would better serve my purposes here, that would breakwhatever image i am editing in Photoshop into square chunks?
In the most extreme case, I had to take an image that was 1024x24576, and chop it into 8 different images, and i remember this process being difficult to accomplish seemlessly.
I can scan a photo and save it on the desktop.If I go to LR3 to import the photos they don't show up on the desktop in LR.
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