how to fix the color on this photo. I have several more like it. They are scanned from photos that were developed from damaged film. On the photos where the entire image is yellowed I have no problem correcting the color, but I'm not quite sure how to make a selection on photos like these and then match the color to the other half..I am using cs5.
View 9 RepliesI am about to get a film scanner I have on order, to scan in 35mm negatives.
When scanning film frames, I like the idea of setting the scan area marquee, at the scanning stage, so that it scans slightly beyond the film frame edges, so that I can carefully crop to the edge of the film frame later, in Photoshop CS6, rather than setting it, at the scanning stage, and then later, when examining the film frame in CS6, maybe discovering that I have not scanned to the edge of the film frame quite enough, as I can easily zoom right into the image when in CS6, to carefully examine where the film frame edges are.
I may be reducing the resolution of the image. For example, say I scan a film frame in at 3600 ppi, and later crop the image slightly in CS6 in order to precisely trim off any slight amount of black around the film frame edges. By cropping the film frame like this in CS6, am I reducing the image resolution of the film frame to lower than 3600ppi? As I best understand it, I do not think post-cropping like this results in any reduction in image resolution.
I just started shooting film again. Having just received back my first few rolls back scanned as JPEGs on to CD, I wanted to import these into my Lightroom library (LR5), but have been unable to do so.
I am trying to import them the same way I import RAW digital files, but when I try that way, they won't import. The only way they import is when there is no destination file set and they are simply stuck in a general "New Folder". Even when I try to simply rename the "new folder" to something more specific I am unable to do so.
I tried following Scott Kelby's instructions for color correcting digital images in PSE 10. I was entering the values he gave for the R,G and Blue channels. I got off track and probably missed a step. Anyway, now when I try any of the auto correction features, my images look like film negatives and not like a regular digital image. How can I re-enable the auto correction features (levels, color correction, etc.) ?
View 2 Replies View Relatedimport again my photos with all the settings which i had already brought to my work. It happened that my cat walking on the keyboard changed the name of the disk where lightroom used to point. Working with Lightroom 3, mac osx 10.5.8.
View 8 Replies View Related'm working on a project to present some old photos scanned from a book that's more than 50 years old. The photos are in Black & White and the scan left them with noticable grid/dot patterns. Is there any way I can clean those up with GIMP?
View 3 Replies View RelatedAre there techniques available for repairing water damaged photos?
View 9 Replies View Relatedcaused by a flood in my location (Bavaria/Germany), I have many damaged photos, which where stored in cellar, which was flooded. The photos are dirty and wet, but they can be cleaned and dehumidified. Many photos have now areas with ruined colors and "fire blizzards" on it. can I prepare damaged photos with Photoshop elements (8, 9 or 11) in that way, that I get back a good picture?
View 5 Replies View Relatedhow to restore damaged photos and one of the most essential tools I need is the healing brush tool BUT it wont work!
I create a new layer by dragging the background image down to the icon in the bottom left hand corner.Then select the healing brush tool, set it to replace, proximity match, opacity to 30%, hardness to 100%, flow to 100% and have aligned ticked.
Because of the disability I used a track ball mouse with a sticky mouse button. So I start to paint with the healing brush, have it clicked down but nothing really happens? The spot healing tool works o.k.ish as does the clone stamp.
I"m running CS4 Extended on a Mac......
When I export jpegs which I changed to "black & white" in LR 4.4, and import these exported photos into a different LR 4.4 catalog, the treatment of the imported photos changes to "color".
What can I do to keep the correct treetment?
What's the best way to get its photos into my computer for PS editing?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a website with an image and film archive. I wanted to have a couple images for the entry pages that give the site a sort of archive-y, slightly cluttered and haphazard feel. I recently got Photoshop CS2 and have some experience using it and previous versions, though I'm not an expert designer by any means. The two things I'd like to do are:
1. Find a plugin/filter/process to make jpg photo images appear to be old photos sitting on the background. I.e. make them a little warped, give a sense of depth & slight shadow, maybe even a slightly tattered edge. Basically to give the viewer an impression of several photographs scattered on top of a surface (in this case, the white background), maybe some tossed partway on top of others.
2. For the film content, I wanted an image of a 16mm film strip with screen captures from the films displayed as if they were each frame. I can do this with an image of flat 16mm movie film with the screen caps sized to fit the frames, but I'd *really* like to make that film sort of wavy and/or looped. Is there a way to warp a flat image like that into something that looks convincingly wavy, as if the film was just taken out of the canister?
I use the vanilla app and do vanilla things. Lately I have been interested in using some turn of the century public domain line illustrations, but often they are found with yellow backgrounds from the old paper.
I can knock the blotchy yellow out with levels and such, but I think there is probably a way to remove it instead of washing it out. I see that there are a few plug ins out there that might do the job, but I don't know if they are updated to work with the newest program on a 64 bit Win 7 machine.
Bonus question: Since some of the drawings are not the best quality, so vectorizing them has potential. I have played around with the trace bitmap tool on Inkscape and it is cool, but is it the best way? Is there a way to clean up a raster image without manually doing cleanup, or a plug in that lets it scale up?
Using ver. 4.3 with Win7.
I'm trying to get Lightroom to display only the photos I select in Grid View in the film strip but
On LR 3.6 I cannot view my photos on the film strip in the LIBRARY setting. On DEVELOP I can view on photo at a time on the film strip (the rest of the photos are not viewable). This is a new problem which has only occured on the last two imports.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIs there any way to use the "old film" effect, but keep the original colors. I really enjoy the look of the scratches and dust, but I do not want a grey movie.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen my image opens in Photoshop CS 5.5 I can only see my image when I move it with the move tool and when I let go of left click the checkerboard reappears and hides my image! Can't merge 2 halves of a drafted house plan precisely if I can't see it....?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am starting a project and doing research about having the possible chance of making either a UV or X-ray scanner with the ability of scanning numerous 2d drawings onto a photoshop like software all at one time. While going to SJSU it took me a longer time to shoot single shots of my 136 page animation project than it took me to draw it out frame by frame... so I told my teacher David Chai one day-" why not build a cube with an x-ray beam and shoot my whole project all at one time?
" It has been a long time since Art23 and I still have the same dream of doing a full length animation- if it were to ever happen I would need a software with the capability of running a composite that would hold multiple frames scanned(30 perhaps) through a front and side x-ray or UV ray that can harness the depth of each individual frame being scanned at the same time. If I had software that could hold data from each frame... I believe I can work out my schools animation team ad well as move towards making numerous 5 page "final D" animation in a way make a full length film with my old crew Studio.
I scanned an image (settings: B/W adaptive, 600 dpi ) and came up with a .tiff file of 1474 kb.
When opened with Photoshop CS3, and saved, the file size jumps to 38 mb.
How can I edit the file and keep the file size from changing?
Windows Xp
Scanner: Contex HD3630, Using WIDEimage scanning software
CS3
I am receiving a bunch of raw scans and the first thing I need to to with it is cropping them into individual images. We are talking hundreds of photos, with 6+ images on each raw scan. Doing it manually takes time and might not be 100% accurate. One should think some kind of software was made able to do this automatically (PS plugins?)
I suspect I *might* have to resort to something other than Adobe * - but in desperation I am trying this forum anyway..! It would be GREAT to be able to just do this repetetive work in one batch.
I'm currently working on a project that's about a book printed in 1631. This book contains some illustrations that are on a spread. Because the book is old and rather special, the scans of the spreads show the distinct spine. Is there a simple way in Photoshop to mask this issue?
View 12 Replies View Relatedi have multiple gang scans, some of them containing 15 images or more. they are scanned at 400dpi and are extremely large files i want to break the component images into their own unique files and save them as tiffs in exactly the same format that they are in now. i want to make sure i dont compress them or change the info in any way except for file size.
View 1 Replies View RelatedBy default, PSE uses the Windows preferred location for this user. I have a folder that is easier to access, simply D:Scans, and I have to enter this manually, as well as removing the default to set up a folder with "today's date" every time I do a scan. I would like to modify these default settings. Surely those locations must be held in an installed file somewhere, and so if I can just edit that file I'd be very happy.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am using Building Design Suite 2012 and trying to open a file that was emailed to me, when I try to open it I get an error that says "This DWG file was saved by an application that was not developed or licensed by Autodesk. What do you want to do?" When I choose continue opening DWG file it will open the file but it seems as if things are everywhere and outside the limits of the title sheet. I would think that possibly this was the intent of the drawing and they control the items outside of the title block with clipping or layer control, but here is where the weird part comes in, when I saved the file to my computer and try opening it from there (as opposed to directly from the email) when I click on it and it gives me the preview before opening the preview looks correct like the drawing is supposed to be. I have tried opening the file in Architecture 2012 and in TrueView 2012 and get the same results.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI loaded some folders with my pictures. In Lightroom I developed some of it, others I did not. Now I want to export only those pictures which I developed. I know, I can manually select at the bottom line all pictures showing a +/- sign and the export them. This is quite a lot of work with my 800 pictures. Is it possible to tell Lightroom that it just selects and exports the developed pictures?
View 2 Replies View RelatedLightroom 4.1 will not export a deleloped image. I have the metadata to new file set to automatic and I get no error mesage. All my new exported files are the same as the original. I need a detailed discription of what boxes need to be checked or unchecked and where to find them. Something as simple as saving changes so that I might use them in another app should not be so difficult- version 2.7 worked fine so what's up with 4.1?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm new to lightroom and heres what happened.
I edited a batch of photos, exported them and .xmp files were created in Lightroom Export folder.
Later copied the .xmp files out of the Export and and pasted them into the main folder of the cr2 files.
When I opened LR again, there was a prompt and I messed with it. The result now is that the developed settings are the defaults instead of the unedited/tweaked photos.
I recently moved all my pictures developped with LR from my D DRive to an external one. But I guess I did it the wrong way (just searchimng for the files and moving them away). Then I imported again all my catalogs, but most of the pictures are "seen" AS DUPLICATE by LR and do not allow me any action on them. How can I fix it within deleting all the lrcat (libraries where all the changes done in the pictures are kept)?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have something like 1,850 photos, taken in RAW and later converted to DNG, to create a stop motion. All the photos were taken with the same camera (Canon 5D Mk II) and most of them with a 24-70L. All were taken in the same lighting conditions (in an interior, with the house lighting from flourescent lights) and the same day, in a period of maybe 2 or 3 hours. Each "take" was with the exact same camera and exposure parameters.
When processing the photos in Lightroom (using the LR4 beta) I can see some minor but very noticeable differences between color an exposure in the photos of the same "take". The exposure can be more or less automatically corrected by the Matching total exposures (although I think this doesn't work when the exposures are really similar, but there are some subtle differences like in this case, say, something along ~1/5 stop or so), but I haven't found how to try to match the white balance. All of the photos have already been set to a specific WB (I took a ColorChecker Passport at the beginning of the session), but there are still some differences between some of the shots. Some of them look a tad more greener. I blame the flourescent bulbs, but I'm not sure of the real cause.
So, the question is: is there a way to match the color balance of a series of photos to a target one? I really don't want to go photo by photo setting the white balance manually. Is there a tool like the Match total exposures, but for color balance? I have already tried with the automatic white balance, but the problem is that the decided WB for the photos is not the one I need, and I need to have the same WB for all the session, and this could change from different takes. The difference between shots is usually around 4 or 5 "points" in the Tint scale, some are with Tint +11, some with +15.
Or any other tool that could process this after? At the end I'll use JPGs to create the stop motion, so if there is a tool that could process the exported jpgs it could work too.
I am doing a project for school that requires me to "scan" some old books by shooting the pages with a DSLR-type camera. The setup is kind of like a poor-man's planetary scanner, but unlike a real PS, it doesn't have fancy proprietary software to "flatten out" the curves in the pages (near the binding and in the middle) that distort the text. Since part of my project involves processing the images with OCR into ebooks, I need the lines to be as straight as possible for accuracy's sake. I figure photoshop has GOT to be able to handle distortion correction like this, but I am clueless on how to do it. So far, I have tried to get close by cropping the pictures with a perspective correction, but the pages are still unreadable near the binding and in the middle.
View 5 Replies View RelatedEvery time I go to save a scan it defaults to Bitmap and I have to then scroll down and select jpeg. How can I make jpeg the default setting?
View 5 Replies View Related