I use my Ligthroom 3 for over 2 yeasr now and I had never such problem before. During exportin my pictures to HD I loose saturaion for orange. Whatever format I use problem remains the same. Both my monitors I use are calibrated so there is no colors distortion, especialy that it happen to orange only.
View 2 RepliesI was doing it before, but now it keeps losing saturation when I use the dodge/burn tool. I must have changed a setting or something.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI've been working in Lightroom 4 on a photo that I took and I have everything the way I want it (these adjustments include increasing the saturation on some colors under the HSL tab). Now I am trying to make the top half of the picture just black and white, but when I chose the Adjustment Brush and sturn the Saturation down on it to -100 and start going over the top half of the picutre, some of the colors (the ones I turned the Saturation up on under the HSL tab) dull a little but do not go completely Black & White.
View 6 Replies View RelatedUsing Lightroom 4.1 final, I see greatly different color saturation between the Library (very saturated) and the Develop (seems OK) module if I start the program on my sRGB monitor and drag the window to the wide gamut screen.
It seems like the Library preview is rendered as if the monitor was sRGB.
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This seems very similar to the problem that was fixed from 4.1 RC2 to 4.1 final, but more specific to particular circumstances. And the problem does not exist if LR starts on the wide gamut monitor.
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I'm using LR 4.1 final 64 bit on Windows 7 64 bit and I always use LR with a single window despite having two monitors.
Question #1.
Were can I change the "color saturation" to use for my "color changer"?
Question #2.
When using "point-to-point" or "edge seeker", is there a way to go back one or two steps, without having to start all over again?
I recently just got the X5 version of Corel. I have been having problems holding the brightness of my colors when I export to web in a png format. All of my colors look dingy compared to my original drawing. I found a good black on my 256 shades of gray palette that looks the same after you export. Is there a color palette that will hold the brightness of the colors better than the rest when exporting for png? Or is there a better way to get my drawing as a transparent background and keep my colors bright?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to export a bunch of photos that I have tweaked the color on and a few other settings. Lowered saturation, sharpened, etc...
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When I put the lightroom and the jpg in any other viewer side by side, the export looks like the original before it was tweaked. Too much red, too much saturation. Not sure what I am doing wrong. I have tried exporting a single image as well as a bunch and no different. In Lightroonm, they look amazing. Exported, they don't.
when exporting a photo, does Lightroom convert to a profile or assign a profile? Because there is no way to choose. I tried to export a photo with 3 different color spaces (sRGB, AdobeRGB and ICC profile from laboratory where I print my photos). After exporting them to JPEG it turned out that all of them look differently on my monitor - does it mean that Lightroom assigns a profile? If it was converting, shouldn't they have the same colours? What is more, after printing them in laboratory, results were completely different than I expected - the photo which had closest colours to what I saw in Lightroom was that in sRGB, but that with ICC of Lab was very different (much colder colours).
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Where is the problem, or what aspect do I seem to misunderstand? Do I have wrong settings, should I use DNG to work with photos, should I export to TIFF, or I just have too weak monitor or wrongly calibrated one? Should I calibrate when viewing a picture in Lightroom or with the use of a photo exported to the ICC profile of Lab?
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I would like to have a little bit of control over what I'm working on, depending on whether I want to publish it on a website or print. I know that my monitor can be a problem (I have an iiyama with IPS), but surely there has to be any way to make results of my work a bit closer to my expectations.
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Just for information, my workflow doesn't require Photoshop, as I rather prefer to use only tools from Lightroom. I hope that my problem doesn't require the use of Photoshop.
I just spent 30+ hours editing a set of 123 wedding photos in RAW file format. When I export to JPEG, the colors change on just about every photo. I understand that if I would have correctly set up the camer calibration prior to editing, this would have possibly solved my problem. However, the photos are already edited. When I export the files in TIFF, they look fine. It's just the JPEG file format that changes the look of my images. I'm using Lightroom 2.3. My last brainstorm involved importing the already edited TIFF files and then trying to export those into JPEG, the color format was still off.
View 1 Replies View RelatedId like to know if its possible to make own hue/saturaiton colour. What I mean by this is we get an option for red,yellow,greens etc etc.
But lets say we have an image over clusted with brown, and we would like to have that option to reduce the browness in an image. so Is there a way
we can make our custom colour? Like the example below this guys face has a brownish colour to it, and with the colour picker I get a #b56b3e which seems related to the brown colour family.so Id like to make that #b56b3e into a colour of my Hue / Saturation. so I have the option in the drop down menu.
I'm in class and the teacher just showed us Selective Color. I usually use Hue Saturation to enhance colors or color correction. Is there a diffence between the two tools?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a full colour photo that i want to use on my website...but i dont want all the colurs in there... i only really want blueish colours....
How do i edit the existing colours OR apply a kinda blue wash to the image while still maintaining all the lighting/shading aspecst of the original image?
I see images like this from time to time and I like the color and contrast, yet I’ve not been able to reproduce this effect.
I don’t think the image has been manipulated, however I’d like to be able to reproduce this effect, how I might go about reproducing this effect?
I have 2 x pictures - pictures A & B.
I have figured out how to use the HUE SATURATION to change the colour of PIC B.
I want pic B to be the SAME colour as PIC A.
Is there a tutorial on how to use the color picker & clic on PIC A, and then tell picture B to be the SAME colour as Pic A ?
PS - I also want PIC B (words) to have a transparent background.
When I export as a jpeg the images obviously are compressed, however, they also get darker and more saturated. Is there anyway to compensate for this without having to overcorrect the image before exporting?
View 4 Replies View RelatedAfter I've exported through LR 3 I am getting different tone qualities only with two different image viewing windows. The picture attached shows the example of the image on the left opened with Windows Photo Viewer is brighter red tie and bluer suit while the one on the right is opened with Microsoft Photo Editor is more darker red and purple suit. The one on the left is the correct image.
This is also happening when the photo is sent through an inventory management system we have. I am exporting with 600 x 1200 jpeg resize 72 dpi at sRGB, 100 quality, and jPeg mode in File settings.
We would like to export RAW files in their original RAW format AND retain their color correction and stars labels. We would then like to import these exported RAW + XMP files into other Lightroom Catalogs. Sometimes when we do this, however, the color correction and stars ratings from the last catalog are not visible.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'd like know how can I discover a color saturation in an image? For example, I open an image in photoshop CS6 and I'd like to know what a color is more saturated for after to do a treatment with color balance. I tried to use a Color Sample Tool in Photoshop but without success.
View 1 Replies View RelatedThere's a section of my video that needs a bit more saturation, especially with an effect, but applying it just "jumps" it in. Is it possible to keyframe the saturation? Or is there an effect that has a saturation control so I can add it as an effect and keyframe it's levels from there?
View 2 Replies View RelatedFor the Replace Color Command (not the Replace Color Tool), the meaning of the Saturation slider is clear only when the slider value is negative (reducing saturation). In that case the slider reading is the percent by which the (H-L) gap is to be reduced, where H and L are the highest and lowest RGB channel values. A reading of -100 means the gap is to be completely closed. Whatever the percentage closure, it is effected by decreasing H and increasing L in equal increments proportional to the slider setting.
When the saturation slider is set to a positive number (increasing saturation), however, the meaning is not easily unearthed. The incremental changes in H and L, although still equal and opposite in algebraic sign, are now a non-linear function of the slider and the initial H and L values, but I have not been able to nail it.
The middle RGB channel plays no role in either case. With H and L set, it is adjusted to keep hue constant.
[URL] would like to know if i can create an saturation mask action based on a range of colors that i can select with hue/saturation or color range / can i do it? and how?
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-------setup:
ps cs 6
win 7 64
dual monitor setup
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preferences -> perfomance as follows:
use graphics processor: ticked
advanced settings:
drawing mode: advanced
everything else in advanced is also ticked
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problem:if i drag an image on my secondary (image editing) monitor the images saturation/color changes while i drag it. on mouse release it goes back to normal.this doesnt happen on my primary (system etc) monitor.yes i could probably workaround making my editing monitor my primary monitor, but i don't want to, because i want it free of windows bars and similar rubbish.
When exporting my edited pictures to a folder in m Pictures it goes as a blank soft color but no photo. It looks like a tiny dot and when you open it, it is a soft color..
View 10 Replies View RelatedI am having issues with the color warper in Autodesk Smoke Prerelease 6. As soon as you change any values (ie changing the saturation to 99.9%) in the color warper the image glitches out and you see weird inverted colours and other artifacts. It is completely unusable.
The workstation I am currently using is a 12 Core Mac Pro 5,1, 16GB Ram, GTX285.
I do not have the issue with the latest version Smoke 2012.
I am trying to provide an image to an ad company for printing. When I change the color mode from RGB to CMYK, I lose the beautiful intense blue of the sky. I have tried to get this intensity back through photo filters, curves, levels, saturation, variations, color balance, selective color, and the channel mixer to no avail. Can anyone give me some tips on this? (I freely admit that my solution will probably be found in some combination of the above!)
I am using PS CS2 on WXP xp2.
How do I convert my cr2 image from camera into a jepeg to send online without losing the color and quality of the cr2 image? Mine gets really bad when I convert to jpeg. Can I size a cr2 also?
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhy am I losing the effect/color when going from duotone, tritone, etc. to rgb? Not using spot color, just using the picker to select the colors.
The when I try to change modes to RGB so I can save as a jpg it goes all b&w. Never had this issue before. This seems to happen only when I use the artistic filter graphic pen. I go to graphic pen use it, then grayscale, then duotone, then rgb.
I have a diamond image, which obviously has different shades in it, it actually has dark, like dark brown shades, which i want to change to lighter smth like light yellow, i tried replace color, hue/sat//light but the effect is not realistic like an actual diamond looks, it is loosing its luminosity. i even tried with magic wand tool, by selecting each darker part and changing color, but it does'nt look realistic either.
I m using Photoshop 7.0
I'm using Photo & Graphic Designer 2013. I notice that the buttons are now under the Page Elements menu. I'm trying to figure out how to change the button color without losing the 3D effect. The Help says:
�Change the color by clicking on the appropriate colors on the left end of the Color Line and choosing 'edit'
if I just highlight the button and change the color, it turns the button into a flat color.
I'm not sure I understand how LR4 combines values from the global saturation slider and local adjustments. Two questions in bold at the bottom. I made the following experiments:
1) start with a color raw image, process version 2012, untouched.
2) bring down global saturation to -100
3) add a graduated filter with saturation +100 (I added, say, sharpness -100 to see precisely to which side the filter is being applied)
I would expect half of the picture to be colored and half b&w. Instead the filter is totally ineffective (i.e. it produces absolutely no effect, you can see this rotating it). So I conjecture that the total saturation is not "additive" (i.e. -100+100) but maybe "compound" (i.e. the product of 1+p/100). if this were true, then any slider equal to -100 would bring saturation to the minimum. let's see if this holds true:
4) set global saturation to -100. any value of the filter saturation is ineffective
5) set filter saturation to -100 and global saturation to 0. now (say) in my photo the sky is blue on the left and grey on the right.
6) slowly move global saturation from -50 to +100: the grey sky changes! from a... less saturated grey to a sort of... super-saturated grey (more brilliant and slightly yellow?).
So the conjecture is false and it looks like the filter is applied first, and the global value is applied last, IGNORING what the filter possibly did (so if the filter turned blue into grey, then "saturate" the grey).
In particular, if I want to desaturate everything, except for a very small area, I have to paint the complement of the area with saturation -100 which feels quite unnatural (I'd like to do it painting something only on the small area).
I have corrected my saturation on a photo in the Develop module and would like to copy that saturation to other photos. I click 'copy' in the lower left and get the dialog to select my choice of settings, so I only check saturation. I then move to my desired recipient image and click 'paste' and nothing happens. Same result in Library module when I use Photo > Develop Settings > Copy Settings and Paste Settings.
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I am using LR 5.3 on Windows Pro 7