I have an image with a black background and an image in various shades of grey. I would like to, i guess, "invert it" in such a way that black becomes white, and the various shades of gray become transparent. Basically I want to have the following:
Black -> White with 100% opacity - totally white
Grey with 10% black -> White with 90% opacity - white with a bit of transparency
Grey with 70% black -> White with 30% opacity - white with a lot of transparency
White -> White with 0% opacity - completely transparent
Id like to know if its possible to make own hue/saturaiton colour. What I mean by this is we get an option for red,yellow,greens etc etc.
But lets say we have an image over clusted with brown, and we would like to have that option to reduce the browness in an image. so Is there a way
we can make our custom colour? Like the example below this guys face has a brownish colour to it, and with the colour picker I get a #b56b3e which seems related to the brown colour family.so Id like to make that #b56b3e into a colour of my Hue / Saturation. so I have the option in the drop down menu.
I'm in class and the teacher just showed us Selective Color. I usually use Hue Saturation to enhance colors or color correction. Is there a diffence between the two tools?
I have a full colour photo that i want to use on my website...but i dont want all the colurs in there... i only really want blueish colours....
How do i edit the existing colours OR apply a kinda blue wash to the image while still maintaining all the lighting/shading aspecst of the original image?
I'd like know how can I discover a color saturation in an image? For example, I open an image in photoshop CS6 and I'd like to know what a color is more saturated for after to do a treatment with color balance. I tried to use a Color Sample Tool in Photoshop but without success.
For the Replace Color Command (not the Replace Color Tool), the meaning of the Saturation slider is clear only when the slider value is negative (reducing saturation). In that case the slider reading is the percent by which the (H-L) gap is to be reduced, where H and L are the highest and lowest RGB channel values. A reading of -100 means the gap is to be completely closed. Whatever the percentage closure, it is effected by decreasing H and increasing L in equal increments proportional to the slider setting.
When the saturation slider is set to a positive number (increasing saturation), however, the meaning is not easily unearthed. The incremental changes in H and L, although still equal and opposite in algebraic sign, are now a non-linear function of the slider and the initial H and L values, but I have not been able to nail it.
The middle RGB channel plays no role in either case. With H and L set, it is adjusted to keep hue constant.
[URL] would like to know if i can create an saturation mask action based on a range of colors that i can select with hue/saturation or color range / can i do it? and how?
ps cs 6 win 7 64 dual monitor setup  preferences -> perfomance as follows: use graphics processor: ticked advanced settings: drawing mode: advanced everything else in advanced is also ticked  problem:if i drag an image on my secondary (image editing) monitor the images saturation/color changes while i drag it. on mouse release it goes back to normal.this doesnt happen on my primary (system etc) monitor.yes i could probably workaround making my editing monitor my primary monitor, but i don't want to, because i want it free of windows bars and similar rubbish.
There's a section of my video that needs a bit more saturation, especially with an effect, but applying it just "jumps" it in. Is it possible to keyframe the saturation? Or is there an effect that has a saturation control so I can add it as an effect and keyframe it's levels from there?
I use my Ligthroom 3 for over 2 yeasr now and I had never such problem before. During exportin my pictures to HD I loose saturaion for orange. Whatever format I use problem remains the same. Both my monitors I use are calibrated so there is no colors distortion, especialy that it happen to orange only.
I've been working in Lightroom 4 on a photo that I took and I have everything the way I want it (these adjustments include increasing the saturation on some colors under the HSL tab). Now I am trying to make the top half of the picture just black and white, but when I chose the Adjustment Brush and sturn the Saturation down on it to -100 and start going over the top half of the picutre, some of the colors (the ones I turned the Saturation up on under the HSL tab) dull a little but do not go completely Black & White.
Using Lightroom 4.1 final, I see greatly different color saturation between the Library (very saturated) and the Develop (seems OK) module if I start the program on my sRGB monitor and drag the window to the wide gamut screen. It seems like the Library preview is rendered as if the monitor was sRGB. Â This seems very similar to the problem that was fixed from 4.1 RC2 to 4.1 final, but more specific to particular circumstances. And the problem does not exist if LR starts on the wide gamut monitor. Â I'm using LR 4.1 final 64 bit on Windows 7 64 bit and I always use LR with a single window despite having two monitors.
I am having issues with the color warper in Autodesk Smoke Prerelease 6. As soon as you change any values (ie changing the saturation to 99.9%) in the color warper the image glitches out and you see weird inverted colours and other artifacts. It is completely unusable.
The workstation I am currently using is a 12 Core Mac Pro 5,1, 16GB Ram, GTX285.
I do not have the issue with the latest version Smoke 2012.
I have 750 gif scanned images of maps. The problem is that I need to turn a border of 75 pixels right round each image either black or white. The image has to stay the same the same size, just the first 75 pixels all around have to be either black or white.
So how do I:
A make the border black or white?
B automate it so I don't have to do them all by hand?
I want to become really good at it, but don't know where to start! Everytime i try something, i try to blend different parts together via cut and paste. I try to smooth it in to make it look like the original photo, and no matter what strategy i use (Smudge tool, pencil tool and manually put in the colors, etc.) the area turns out rough or too blurry?
Back in Photoshop CS3 (I skipped from CS3 to CS6, so no idea if you could do this in any other versions) if you CTRL clicked on a vector path between two anchor points, you could change the 'guidelines' extending from the anchor point either side of the line, and it would keep the lines at the same angle. However in CS6, when you do this it changes the angle of both of the lines. Is there a way to do it as it was done in CS3 ?
How do you get the text to conform to the oval on the bottom of the text but remain straight across the top - see attached image for example of what I'm going on about.
I had a go with the warp text but couldn't get it. Is this effect done by creating one letter at a time and adjusting the height?
I want to create a series of photomanipulated images that I would title "Be Extraordinary." Basically, I want every picture to be a picture of me doing some sort of extraordinary thing, leaning more towards sci-fi stuff. I already have an idea for one of me wielding a lightsaber, but after that, I've run out of ideas for anything I know how to do in Photoshop. I had an idea for me creating some sort of energy shield, but I simply don't know how to really create that effect in Photoshop.
Although many of these look like they are made in Maya or 3DS they are in fact real people. This is a 2 part question, first is where does one find larger format high res backgrounds like those in the links below and most importantly how can I make my subjects look like they are on a poster. If anyone knows how this is done that would be great! I am at a loss! What programs were likely used?
I just upgraded to a new computer setup and installed Photoshop CC and well..... I can't figure out how to manipulate paths like in CS6. Â On the left is a what path manipulation with anchor points looks like in CS6 on my old slow iMac, and on the right is the new CC with direction selection on, but instead I can't manipulate paths. How can I get it to work like CS6? Also, I know about the isolating layers thing, but that still doesn't let me manipulate certain anchor points. Â why Command + . isn't allowed in CC as a hotkey?
ok a while ago i saw a cool tut and made this but i tried to remake it today and couldnt quite get it so does anyone know either how this was done or where i could find that tut for it again? oh ya, i remember i used like 3 lens flares and wave but i can't remember the exact steps,
i've got a photo with a unique human skin and texture, i think this is a manipulation of a photo by photoshop. i can't understand, what is the most significant differences between this photo and the original photo.( sorry, i don't have the original image..i'm just imaging a general digital photo ).and i think this is not similar to Dragan style, because the skin looks wraped and painted..
resolution and printing. I know some of these questions are not specifically adobe Photoshop related,I understand the theory of dpi vs ppi and resolution vs print. However, I am not sure how to print compositions with mulitple images such as a photo maniupulation. Â So here are my questions: Â 1) If I make a document set for 300 ppi and all my other layers and photos be 300 ppi? What if my photo is at 600 ppi (which it wouldn't be but for instance.) Â 2) I want to maintain print quality, but need to resize a photo to fit on the composition. For instance I want to keep my photo at 300 ppi but need to shrink it to fit on the smaller background composition I can resample or not. Â Â Â Â - Not resampling does not allow me to digitally view the size, but maintains original photo quality. It also adds ppi which makes a huge file size to work on. Â Â Â Â - Resampling allows me to keep the same dpi but hinders the quality. Â If I am combining two images together that need to be high resolution for print and then need to be resized what is the best option? How can I view them digitally? Here is an example: Â I have a document set at 300 ppi and the calculated pixels needed for whatever print size document I will use. The 'background' will say be white.I then want to add a photo at 300 ppi but it needs to shrink to fit on the 'background.'How can I shrink that photo and still maintain a quality print AND see it on screen?Â
i'm attempting to photoshop this so the foam in the beer separates in the form of the supplied black shape. like it looks like its been stamped in the foam.