Suddenly Images showed much shorter than from Camera.With Canon 50d , took some garments and it looks fine from camera.But when I see from Bridge and Photoshop, images look shorter.
View 8 Replieslike to make a head shorter vertically, and position it so that it is not on a tilt.
is there a way o make it shorter besides free transform?
i dont know how to use the ruler guideline to reposition the head.
i am using elements organizer 10 to organize my pictures, about 100.000.
All these pictures are in the location D:/pictures/privat pictures/2001/YYYYMMDD. Each year has a lot of folders oriented by date.
All this pictures are a second time at my backup drive Z:/backup pictures/private pictures/2001/................
After creating a new catalog and start importing all files from D: it takes time till all pictures are imported.
But then the failure happens if i click to any folder in D: i can not see any picture.
If i start import i.e. for one single folder again i get the message" pictures are already imported..."
If i click at a bar in the timeline the pictures are shown and the path tree shows it at location Z....with the path name from D:
I created more catalogs the last time to find a solution.
I use Windows 7 ultimate
Have you ever wanted to make a photo seem to have shorter depth of field? Prior to Photoshop CS6 this was no small feat to achieve digitally and end up with a pleasing and visually believable result.
Photographers know that setting the aperture wide can change the mood of a shot completely. Sometimes getting the DOF just right can make the difference between an "also ran snapshot" and an award winning photograph.
With today's smaller digital sensors - and even with big sensors if too small an aperture is available - sometimes we get an image that's exposed right, that's composed well, that's caught the moment. More of it is sharp than we'd like, and the background or foreground is simply distracting.
Enter the new Photoshop CS6 blur filters.With the Tilt-Shift variant, one can progressively blur pixels based on a definable gradient/mask, so that we get that familiar progressive front-to-back blur change.
Armed with this powerful new capability, and with the subject masking/separation facilities we've had for a couple of versions now, this becomes possible:
1. Separate subject from surroundings with a good mask - e.g., quick select, refine edge, make a new layer with just the parts you want to remain sharp showing on it. A good mask isn't difficult to make any more! Hide this layer when done.
2. Remove the subject, at least around the edges, from the background layer underneath, e.g., by selecting using the above mask, expanding the selection, and doing Content Aware Fill and/or Cloning. This is important because in the subsequent blur operation we don't want parts of the sharp subject blurring into the background. That just looks weird.
3. Use Photoshop CS6's Tilt-Shift Blur to visually shorten the DOF in the background layer, with the center point and unblurred region set to coincide with the position of the subject in the shot. Adjust the settings to taste, which isn't as much of a crap shoot any more since the blurs actually update in real time on screen.
4. Make the layer above visible, maybe do some things with the lighting (which is fairly easy, now that subject is separated from the background), and voila, a whole new feel to the photo.
I have a problem right now with the weight map visibility.
On PC one, everything is alright, I create a cube, add a weight map property, push ''W'' and start painting. A blue color now appear on my black cube..
On the second PC, I do all the same, but their is no blue color that is revealing under my brush. So I check in the Script Editor and their is a list of Array like it is suppose to create.
I suppose the problem is not the weight map but some visibility option that is turn off, but I can't find them.
I want to make one shorter animation loop within a longer one. Example would be a rotor of a plane spinning when the plane flies by, or a parameter of a material looping within lets say 15 frames (e.g. UV offset changing in cycles) while the whole walk cycle is 60 frames long. If it is a simple property that has to be changed I could simply key in a multiplied value (in the previous example I could offset the UV by 4.0 so it would loop 4 times) but this wont be a solution for more complex stuff.
View 1 Replies View Relatedwhen i try to copy drawing,''copyclip unkown command' showed up, what should i do
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have been working with Xara for two days now, and it's great! I am using the trial version of Xara Photo & Graphic Designer 9. I created a file with a couple of transparent shapes (love the transparency tool - so easy!), and it looked great. I exported to .pdf, and the transparent gradient was all gone. The shapes are there, but have no gradient whatsoever.
I also exported it as a .jpg and the gradients are present in the .jpg. In other words, the .xar file looks great and the .jpg looks great. Just the .pdf doesn't work.
Years ago someone at our firm created his own dimension tick block because he didn't like how thin AutoCAD's built-in tick was. I would agree with him, but I've found using our own tick block creates these really odd additional lines along the dimension line when at smaller dimensions -- I have a feeling the lines are inserted for some reason when the dimension text gets too close to the extension lines. In the following image and in the enclosed DWG, you can see what I mean:
At the bottom left is the tick block on its own. Above that a typical dimension, which looks fine. To the right of that you see the additional length added to the dimension line. And then the next 2 just show some more examples: the lines disappear when I go to 3'-2" but reappear at 2'-11" which is what led me to believe it was due to the proximity of the text to the lines.
Above all that I exploded a dimension and moved the components away from each other: there is a line added to the end of the block and that line does not show up at all in the 3'-3" dimension.
how to suppress these and why they are added in only when the text gets close to the linework?
Edit: the picture I originally attached was missing the exploded block -- replaced with a better image here. db
Is there any utilities that can select the entire drawing with the 2d polyline and erase all the polyline less than specify length (eg:10m,20m etc) ?
View 4 Replies View RelatedMy Nikon D3 is set to save each image as nef and jpg (fine, large). Why is the jpg image opened in camera raw different from the same image in nef?
CS5 with Windows Vista.
is there a way to open an image in camera raw within photoshop cs6 (on a PC)? or do I have to use bridge to do this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat happens to a camera raw image when it is opened in Photoshop? I have PS12 and receive raw images from our photographer and I'd like to know what type of manipulation, if any, occurs to an image as it is being read into Photoshop.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have been using Bridge for years and when in "Filmstrip," the file name and rating ( 1star, 2 star...) were underneath the thumbnail. But all of a sudden the words "Camera Raw image" began appearing underneath the thumbnail. So now beneath the thumbnail it says:
203A91/CR2
**** (4 stars)
Camera Raw Image
Camera Raw Image
I don't know what I did to cause this but what can I do to get rid of the two "Camera Raw image" label.
In camera RAW, to save a JPG you click on the 'Save image...' dialogue and another window opens with the JPG options. To skip this window and directly save the image, you hold down the ALT key and click on the 'Save image'. Is it possible to reverse these settings, so that if you want the JPG dialogue to open you have to hold down the ALT key and to save without the dialogue, you just click on the save button?
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhen I go to open a CRW Image in CS5,Bridge It will not open.It says Could not complete your request because it is not the right kind of document.
PS How do I tell what version of Camera Raw I have.By the way I have a Canon EOS 10D camera.
My images look fine previewed in my digital camera (Leica Digilux1) but when I import them to Photoshop they are much darker. I import using a Dazzle card reader as my son shares it and his camera has a different chip.
View 5 Replies View Relatedhow to open image in camera raw in element11
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have PSE7 from before and recently purchased CS6. I want to keep using PSE as an organizer and edit in CS6. When opening a raw file (CR2) from the organizer to CS using Ctrl-h the image opens directly in CS without opening in Camera Raw first. If I open an image directly in CS it goes through CR first. How do I send the image directly to Camera Raw and then to CS from the organizer? I am running on Windows 7 64 bit. The Camera Raw for PSE7 if 5.6 and 7.3 for CS6.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhy does the image quality seem to get worse in Elements 11 once the image is opened up after editing from Camera RAW? The image looks great in the RAW screen, then once opened in Photo editor it seems pixelated, smooth lines look jagged. Is it something I am doing wrong?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have opened a jpeg as Camera Raw (7.3) and adjusted it and wanted to save it as jpeg, but the only option is *.dng?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am editing .CR2 files using camera raw, and when I save the edited version as a .tiff, my changes are being applied to my original .CR2 as well. I am losing the original .CR2 files.
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow can I have PS Elements 10 accepting the -.raf image files from my Fujifilm X10 camera? I guess there is an update for it somewhere but I cannot find it.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a still image of a view looking up at a complicated building (no ground in shot). There are lots of square features so I know where the right angles are but I have absolutely no information on any distances/dimensions at all and no info on the camera (focal length etc…).
I can get close by eyeballing it in 3D Max, tweaking cam position and focal length and proxy geometry but I’m sure there is a way to do this more automatically in Matchmover (which now ships with Max).
In Matchmover 2011 I created 4 track points on my image in 2D mode, 1 on a vertical corner as the origin, 1 directly above as Z, and 2 either side of the origin using the mortar lines to keep them level (all are as far away from each other as possible to increase track accuracy). I then make a new coordinate system and snap the origin, then Z and finally the X,Y nodes to the corresponding track points.
The last node I snap whichever one it happens to be, wont snap like the others. It just pings back.When I “solve for camera” it complains that it needs at least 2 images with 7 points in common or 4 points with known 3D coordinates.
There is visible lens distortion and I think this needs correcting somehow, other than the distortion parameter for the camera but this feels like stabbing in the dark as I have no way to know what distortion to apply.
I have added an image plane to an existing newsroom set. I would like to 'lock' the image plane to the camera so that it doesn't 'slide' when panning/moving the camera. Like a corner pin per se.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI;m hooked on Infrared and have a Canon XT and a couple of older Canon Point & Shoot converted to IR, I would love to see th same cumtom WB image that I see on the back of the camera. I've started capturing in both RAW +JPG in hopes the jpg will show the settings. I'm importing to show as separate files.
Is there a way to keep LR from changing the bluish tone of a 590 nm supercolor IR sensor image to magenta?
Is there a filter or preset or develop setting I can use to just maintain the original color quality of the JPG?
Can't open file from Nikon D7100 in Camera RAW Plug-In,i have Photoshop CS5 and plugin is upgraded.Format NEF from Nikon D 7100 is not in this plug-in photoshop.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am using Photoshop Elements 11, using WIndows 7 Operating System. I have a new camera Canon Rebel T5i, and having problem viewing images in raw format (cr2).Message in PE11, states, "Camera model not supported by installed version of Camera raw."
Canon software views images. Suspect my minimum camera raw plug in version does not support this new camera..I am unable to locate in the software any menu item that allows me to view the camera raw plug in version.
I am having a problem with camera mapping...I get everything setup and looking good, but when I render it, the image looks really washed out. This happens with both scanline and mental ray rendering. I have done this in the past using max 2009 without any issues.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIs it possible to read raw image data into Gimp? By raw, I mean image data without a header or compression, i.e., RGB, 16-bit unsigned, or 32-bit floating point grayscale, etc.
I see "Raw image data" under "Open > Select File Type", but grayscale isn't listed. Is the only option? Are there any add-ons for grayscale?
I'm using Lightroom 4.1 and Photoshop Camera RAW from CS5 version 6.6
In Lightroom I'm getting some brown splotches on the faces of the groomsmen to the right. These splotches while less noticeable also appear on the bride and groom.
Process the same RAW file in Camera RAW and there are no brown splotches anywhere on the photos.
how I can get rid of this anomaly in Lightroom?
See attached photo. Lightroom file on top and camera raw file on the bottom.