In camera RAW, to save a JPG you click on the 'Save image...' dialogue and another window opens with the JPG options. To skip this window and directly save the image, you hold down the ALT key and click on the 'Save image'. Is it possible to reverse these settings, so that if you want the JPG dialogue to open you have to hold down the ALT key and to save without the dialogue, you just click on the save button?
View 3 RepliesI have opened a jpeg as Camera Raw (7.3) and adjusted it and wanted to save it as jpeg, but the only option is *.dng?
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow do I set Camera Raw preference to: Save image settings in: Sidecar ".xmp" files?
View 11 Replies View RelatedI have Photoshop 10.0 (Windows XP) and use it to edit my photos from my new Nikon D300 camera. I create and maintain my images in JPG format as a preference and have no plans of saving in RAW. My D300 includes 40 to 50 camera info/metadata elements including the camera and lens settings at the time the photo is taken. When I do a simple "Save As" in Photoshop 10 to a new JPG file (whether image adjustments are done to the source image or not), the new JPG file is stripped of about half or more of the original camera-specific metadata elements. Is there a Photoshop setting or Nikon/Photoshop plug-in that will force the software to preserve/retain the original metadata? (The Capture NX2 solution is not an option as the one key feature I use is Auto Levels - The Auto Levels feature in Capture NX2 washes out my photos to an undesireable state). Therefore, I need to continue using Adobe for the benefit of their better Auto Levels feature and I also use their automation heavily as I process 100's of photos at a time. The only drawback of Adobe right now is they discard most of the camera specific shooting data at the time of save. RAW is not an option as the file sizes are too large for my storage, sharing and usage needs.
View 1 Replies View RelatedOnce i apply my presets on raw images in camera raw i click to save all of the photos as JPGs. At the begining the saving takes 1.5-4 seconds per image. After saving for a while computer slows down and it takes almost 10 seconds to save one image.
It took more than 10 hours to save 4000 raw images as JPGs.
Tech Specs:
Photoshop CS6 x64
Windows 7
ACPI x64 based PC
Intel i7 3.40GHz
Sata AHCI controller
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti
Samsung SSD 840 Pro 256GB
In CS5 Bridge I want to see the exposure speed immediately for any chosen picture. So I choose exposure plus exposure correction in Bridge presets.
But after starting my PC the next time, this setting is automatically brought back to "exposure mode" plus "exposure index", which has the effect, that Bridge once again doesn't show the exposure speed (1/30 or 1/100) for the photos. What to do???
Camera Raw takes almost 2 seconds to save 103MB tiff file. (I use Photoshop CS6)When i save a bunch of tiff files, camera raw uses only half of my CPU and half of my RAM. In addition, I use SSD that writes 530MB/s outside Photoshop. According to these specifications it should save 5 images within one second. But it doesnt.
View 12 Replies View RelatedAfter designing, i try to save the image by clicking save as, but it does not trigger any thing. even if i click save alone. it's still the same thing. Until i try to close the interface, then it will pop-up a dialog message that do i want to save before i close or not, then i click yes but it does not display png,jpeg and the likes as file extension. it only displays psd and some uncommon extensions.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI cannot save images from Photoshop CC as a dialogue box opens with "cannot save image.....as you do not have write access
View 2 Replies View RelatedMy Nikon D3 is set to save each image as nef and jpg (fine, large). Why is the jpg image opened in camera raw different from the same image in nef?
CS5 with Windows Vista.
I created a 3d object in AutoCAD 2012. Set a camera at desired location.
Then switch to paper space, created an mview and set the camera view, then added some mtext and dimensions. Locked the display view, save my work and close AutoCAD. Now here's the exciting part. i re-launch AutoCAD and open the drawing. The drawing was messed up. It does not display the correct camera view that was previously saved. It sounds strange but I do it over and over and same thing happens.
Is there any way Lightroom 5 can save the information from my Nikon Cameras RAW file.
When I open my RAW files in Lightroom 5 all my camera settings are not saved.
Is there some way around this.
is there a way to open an image in camera raw within photoshop cs6 (on a PC)? or do I have to use bridge to do this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat happens to a camera raw image when it is opened in Photoshop? I have PS12 and receive raw images from our photographer and I'd like to know what type of manipulation, if any, occurs to an image as it is being read into Photoshop.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have been using Bridge for years and when in "Filmstrip," the file name and rating ( 1star, 2 star...) were underneath the thumbnail. But all of a sudden the words "Camera Raw image" began appearing underneath the thumbnail. So now beneath the thumbnail it says:
203A91/CR2
**** (4 stars)
Camera Raw Image
Camera Raw Image
I don't know what I did to cause this but what can I do to get rid of the two "Camera Raw image" label.
I have cs5.1 and when I convert an image to cmyk and save to tiff the saved image grays-out.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have an action in which it will place an image onto an image like a watermark, when i place the image, it is not center by center so i drag it or use keyboard arrows to center and then press enter, then i saw its on the center, but when i save it, the saved image is not on the center, how was that?
you can see that the right side of border it is not centered because the left side border is thicker than right side, here is the part of the action
you can see that i move the image after i place it because its not on the center so adjusting it makes it at the center but the Translate part is not equal.
A while back I took a Photoshop class and remember a lesson on where you could select a region of an image and save it for the web with a high quality and select another region of the same image and save it for the web with a low quality, so that the focal point was saved with a high quality and the background was saved with a low quality. I have no idea where my notes are from this class and can not remember at all how to do this. Can anyone direct me to a tutorial about this?
View 2 Replies View Related! would assume that something like this has been made but i cant for the life of me find it when shall i find a plugin or default way of doing this i have about 50 layers that need saving as an image each and the idea of doing it by hand scares me.
View 6 Replies View RelatedSuddenly Images showed much shorter than from Camera.With Canon 50d , took some garments and it looks fine from camera.But when I see from Bridge and Photoshop, images look shorter.
View 8 Replies View RelatedWhen I go to open a CRW Image in CS5,Bridge It will not open.It says Could not complete your request because it is not the right kind of document.
PS How do I tell what version of Camera Raw I have.By the way I have a Canon EOS 10D camera.
My images look fine previewed in my digital camera (Leica Digilux1) but when I import them to Photoshop they are much darker. I import using a Dazzle card reader as my son shares it and his camera has a different chip.
View 5 Replies View Relatedhow to open image in camera raw in element11
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have PSE7 from before and recently purchased CS6. I want to keep using PSE as an organizer and edit in CS6. When opening a raw file (CR2) from the organizer to CS using Ctrl-h the image opens directly in CS without opening in Camera Raw first. If I open an image directly in CS it goes through CR first. How do I send the image directly to Camera Raw and then to CS from the organizer? I am running on Windows 7 64 bit. The Camera Raw for PSE7 if 5.6 and 7.3 for CS6.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhy does the image quality seem to get worse in Elements 11 once the image is opened up after editing from Camera RAW? The image looks great in the RAW screen, then once opened in Photo editor it seems pixelated, smooth lines look jagged. Is it something I am doing wrong?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am editing .CR2 files using camera raw, and when I save the edited version as a .tiff, my changes are being applied to my original .CR2 as well. I am losing the original .CR2 files.
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow can I have PS Elements 10 accepting the -.raf image files from my Fujifilm X10 camera? I guess there is an update for it somewhere but I cannot find it.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a still image of a view looking up at a complicated building (no ground in shot). There are lots of square features so I know where the right angles are but I have absolutely no information on any distances/dimensions at all and no info on the camera (focal length etc…).
I can get close by eyeballing it in 3D Max, tweaking cam position and focal length and proxy geometry but I’m sure there is a way to do this more automatically in Matchmover (which now ships with Max).
In Matchmover 2011 I created 4 track points on my image in 2D mode, 1 on a vertical corner as the origin, 1 directly above as Z, and 2 either side of the origin using the mortar lines to keep them level (all are as far away from each other as possible to increase track accuracy). I then make a new coordinate system and snap the origin, then Z and finally the X,Y nodes to the corresponding track points.
The last node I snap whichever one it happens to be, wont snap like the others. It just pings back.When I “solve for camera” it complains that it needs at least 2 images with 7 points in common or 4 points with known 3D coordinates.
There is visible lens distortion and I think this needs correcting somehow, other than the distortion parameter for the camera but this feels like stabbing in the dark as I have no way to know what distortion to apply.
So I am making digital color prints at 24x30. the photography work is about color fields and gradients, so I need super high res files. I have set the size to 24000x30000 pix at 1000 dpi..now my problem, when i go to save the gimp file as a jpeg i get this error message "JPEG image plug-in could not save image"
View 3 Replies View RelatedAny plugin or something that gathers all the colors within a given image and allows you to save the pallete in another image...If you seen a sprite sheet thats pretty much what Im asking for.It'd be cool if the colors were sorted by how dark it was and by RGB.
View 2 Replies View RelatedIf I load a large image (say 5400 px sq.) in Paint.net (or similar) & choose a zoom level where I like the look / size of individual elements, in ONE area. Image is still no where near 100%.
I select a rectangle so the ACTUAL size of rectangle_AND the way the selection looks AT THAT ZOOM level, is what I want. Say, to use as Fx header background.
Problem I've had: Because the image I initially cropped wasn't at 100%, when crop it - the PHYSICAL size of the rectangle may be 1920 x 180 px, but the prgm still thinks / knows it's really 3500 x 450 (or such), at 40% zoom. I can't just save the image - as it looks on screen - & it be that size when reopen it.
I DON'T want to resize / resample it, because (sometimes) that changes the current look (size of certain elements in the image). The only way I've found (gotta be another way) is take a screen shot of the cropped image, at it's CURRENT zoom level. Then it will save as a 1920 x 180 px image, NOT as a 3500 x 450 px image that was at reduced zoom.
If I resize & save at a REDUCED %, it can change the look & size of elements. Every thing I've tried to save the image - at it's PHYSICAL size on screen - say 18.5 in. x 1.75 in. (when image is NOT @ 100% zoom), results in saving a much larger image. I understand this, but looking for a way around it. Used various settings & tried to trick the apps many ways - cropping in one app, copying to another - you name it.