My neighbor brought a problem to me which I could not solve. He is running Photoshop CS3 10.0.1 on XPSP2. When he crops something at an angle, the resultant image is way off -- it is not what is within the crop mark. Any idea what is happening here?
I have CS2 and it works fine for me.
Is there a shortcut to draw a 45 or 90 degree angle from a drawn line on an angle using the pen tool? ie. Rather than just from the x and y axis.
I trace a lot of maps and site plans.
Im drawing in isometric view and want to change the default drawing angle from 30 degrees to another angle.
View 9 Replies View RelatedIs there a quick way to rotate an object to match an angle without knowing what the angle is? I am using AutoCAD 2011 now. I was using 2007 and I had an add on command the would rotate an object using a base point and picking the two lines that make up the angle, and it would match the angle you wanted. I can not get that command to load in 2011.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a property line that is N 36d19'52" E but needs to be N 12d52'18" E. The obvious and calculated rotation angle would be 23d27'34" but when I rotate the line by the calculated angle it doesn't rotate to the right angle. It's off by 0d11'10"!? When I draw a line by bearing at N12d52'18" E and inquiry the angle between the property line and the drawn line the angle difference is in fact 23d27'34".
View 1 Replies View RelatedLet's say I am inserting a square block into a dwg and want to get it parallel to an existing angled line. Do I have to read the angle of the line and insert the block to that angle or is there a quicker way?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have used a driven contraint in a sketch.
Can that also be done in an assembly?
In one assembly I want to make one angle half of a driven angle.
how to convert "real world" angles of elliptical arcs into those shown in a dxf file?
Say that I have drawn an elliptical arc with its start angle on 210 degrees and an end angle of 324 degrees. The values in a DXF file, for an elliptical arc, have something to do with the contant "PI" (3.14159). I know that a full circle is 2*Pi but how to do this with elliptical arcs!!
I'm having trouble getting my 3D lighting to look, well, believable in PS CS5 Ex. I've moved them around, tried different types of lights, and nothing seems to give me proper shadow contrast and glare and shine on my material. Here is a screen of a dining room setting I'm building (preliminary stage) by combining 2D and 3D elements.
The corner hutch on the right is the 3D piece and the two on the left are 2D. The walls, ceiling and floor are also all 3D as well.
I use Photoshop CS5 12.1 for Mac.
When I set the opacity of a layer to, say, 50%, it will always go down one percent below, to 49% I'm not trying to be too picky here, but it's irritating when the opacity of the layer will always slide down one percent from what I set it as. So 68% becomes 67%, and so forth.
I have used Photoshop CS4 and and CS6 Beta and have never experienced this odd problem. When I set the exact opacity or fill, it will stay there. But with Photoshop CS5, it doesn't. I know it's not a huge problem, but like I said, it gets a bit annoying after a while, especially when I'm recording actions..
I'm using the Adobe Photoshop CS3 trial on a Windows Vista machine - I've been using it for a couple days and I've noticed a number of times that the image in the preview window doesn't match what I get (usually after using image adjustment tools like Layer, Contrast/Brightness, or Curves - haven't noticed it so much with Filters, but haven't been using those as much yet either).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a bunch of wooden colour samples which need scanning for a website, but have found the scan result are usually off from the real thing. Understand that it's not going to be possible to get a 100% match, would would like to have something which is quite close to how it looks in real life.
there are text labels on the wood in white, after scanning the text appears as colour #a2b5c2 (blueish-grey), the wood itself is a dark brown but appears much lighter. have managed to find a picture of how it should look, compared to the one I scanned.
I like to set lines for cropping on the canvas. The vertical ruler is perfectly accurate. The horizontal ruler is off by alot. This is on cs4. The canvas size is adjusted to be A2 (420x594mm) The crop marks are with the ruler in inches to 16x20.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a web page layout project on Adobe Photoshop CS and I was wondering:
What effects should I apply to get a look for my top like those ones (I've got the shape)
I'm using Photoshop CS4 and am trying to cleanly select a flower. The flower has a white background that I'd like to remove; I've used the Select > Color Range. However, it still leaves rough edges around the flower's petals. This becomes apparent when I drop a black background behind the flower -- it has fuzzy edges that needed to have been selected and removed.
how to cleanly remove the background and not have the jagged edges?
it asks to select a percentage of a color. Example (30% black, 45% gray)
I don't understand how to accurately get a percentage of color.
how to get percentages of color conveniently in Photoshop?
I use the histogram feature in PS to figure out how many square feet of yarn I will use in a rug that I am making (I work as a rug designer). I am running into a problem with this which is scary because my numbers have to be accurate.
As an example, I may have a 9x12 (inch--this is later blown up to feet using a transparency) drawing. In the drawing there may be 45 organic looking shapes that will be green. I use the magic wand tool and choose all of these green shapes. What I am noticing is that once I get to a certain number (not always consistent) in the histogram reading it will all of a sudden change to a different number and go to (for example) Cache 3. Because of this I have no idea if my histogram reading is accurate.
Is this some sort of memory issue? How do I prevent this from happening so that I can get an accurate heading?
I finding problems in trying to align my buttons in Photoshop with equal space between the buttons . Aligning web buttons in Photoshop.
In illustrator i have a method with the snap to point(snaps the object to nearest vertices i can then align the buttons with equal space, However the snap to layer. does not seem to be accurate in Photoshop.
Using PS CS5.1, converting a large space image to sRGB for web use does not give accurate render in actual browser. This is a common problem, but usually there are a couple of simple user errors that lead to this, and it usually means a less saturated image. This, however, seems unlikely to be user error, as I've tested it with a freshly created, sRGB image, with simple gradient, outputting it with embedded profile (non-embedded gives identical results in browser), and it becomes overly saturated.
The interesting, and probably all telling thing, is that viewing the optimized web version with Monitor Color selected in the preview gives what my browser actually shows me. Likewise, soft proofing using my Monitor RGB gives the same image as my browser.
I'm on WinXP x64. Browser is Firefox, and I've tried all three color management settings with no change, and also same results with Chrome browser.
This grad is in the ProPhoto space, converted during save for web. Color is a good match, with a slight shift, not unexpectedly. Note, preview is with Internet Standard RGB.
Same grad, this time with the preview set to Monitor Color. There is quite a saturation increase. This is what my browser actually shows me. I do not have desaturate colors selected in my color settings.
Take Raw photo - use adjustment layers to modify image - save as PSD - place saved image in indesign - scale to appropriate size - save PDF - Print at printers. Sometimes I get moiré patterns, sometimes I get speckled images like using a sharpening tool or filter far too excessively.
Should I be resizing in Photoshop to exact final dimensions?
hi which is your best soft brush for accurate masks? for example add blurr and mask the hairs in a headshot and the face or in short you fav brush to make accurate masks? i use the normal brush hardness 0% but i know there are many many brushes to download ,with different shapes have a nice day
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've been having trouble printing color prints with PSE 9. They appear kind of pale or less vivid (unacceptably so), the colors are just not as they appear on my monitor. I'm using an Epson R2880, iMac 10.6.8. It prints b&w beautifully. I've been through Epson tech support, checked nozzles and cleaned heads. While speaking with Espon they suggested I print from another application, so I tried using iPhoto, colors came out accurately there. I happen to still have PSE 8 still on my computer, so I attempted to print from there, the colors were also more accurate there (and that's without using the ICC profiles I have in PSE 9 ). It seems the issue is unique to PSE 9. I've tried changing my color setting, typically I have it set to AdobeRGB, but have tried "no color management". I have my monitor calibrated, use proper ICC profiles for any papers I use (and have tried multiple papers).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am basically wondering what are the best settings for the most accurate prints? I normally do web design so I don't really have to worry much, but I am doing some brochures and I am a bit lost.
The printing company requires:
500 DPI (More of a recommendation)
CMYK
A5 148mm x 210mm without bleed 152mm x 214mm with bleed
PDF file as the end file type (Preferred, not required)
Now, I have set my document to 500 DPI, CMYK and 152mm x 214mm but I'm not sure if I need to set my color library to something else? Also, I notice that some colors don't appear to be very strong, like red for example, it looks very washed out.
I find it so frustrating when I spend time editing a photograph in PSE 9 only to find when when I'm done, the finished product looks completely different everywhere else on my computer and online. The Photoshop display is too light and washes out the photos, giving an inaccurate image. Is there any way to set the display to be more accurate?
View 6 Replies View RelatedLooking for an accurate duplicate images / photos program finder. I tried quite few but none of them were accurate.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am trying to print from Photoshop CS6 to an Epson PictureMate color printer and an Epson PictureMate 225 printer. In both cases I want to let Photoshop manage color. I am finding no color profile for Epson in the list of profiles provided by Photoshop. The best I can do is choose “display” as my profile. Still my color prints do not match what I see on my screen in Photoshop. They are flat and washed out. How can I obtain print profiles for my Epson Printers to be used with Photoshop 6?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've been drawing with Autocad for many years now, I've just upgraded to LT2012.
My problem is with the object snaps. They don't seem accurate enough. For e.g. I'll use end point to snap to a line or a corner and it will seem to work, but when I zoom in the object or the lines are not one on top of each other as they should be.
I'm doing drawings right now and the problem is just compounding as I continue. Nothing is perpendicular or parallel as they should be.
Mac OSX10.6.8 InDesign CS6.
I've created a design for a flowing graphic "wave" across an office window 20 ft wide. The only colour is Pantone #301 (blue), and there are gradients from 10% to 80%. The sign supplier wants a high res PDF to print on a flexible vinyl material. When I export to PDF, the colors change on my screen and go from blue to a grayish-blue tone.
1) If I don't do anything, but send the file, will the final output be close to what I see on my screen, or what the InDesign color palette specifies?
2) When I export to PDF, I see several options. I've tried several variations, and it does not bring the image closer to Pantone #301. What else can I do to assure I get the Pantone color?...
Here are the process and options:
- Pantone #301 is only color specified in InDesign.
- EXPORT to PDF.
- QUALITY - Press
- COMPATIBILITY - options from PDF 1.4 to 1.7. Which is the best to use?
- OUTPUT - COLOR -
Conversion to Destination? or Not?
Destination - many, many choices!
Profile Inclusion? Not sure what that does.
Ink Manager - It gives an option for "Spot to Process". Should I chose that?
I would like to draw a smiple line using the transparent command 'AD (angle-distance).
My distance is not horz., so I want to enter the Vertial angle and the slope-distance, in LLD the command was AD VD.
So how do you do this in Civil 3D 2012.
Usually, I chamfer a simple box by creating it, converting it to an editable poly, selecting the edges, and adding a chamfer in the 'Modify' tab. Now, my problem:
The Lego fan community has developed digital Lego parts [URL]..., which use the correct dimensions, but have unreastic chamfering and geometries (eg, an octagon is used to depict a circle. LDview, a program for viewing LDraw files is able to export these parts into .3ds (and .stl) files - links below. However, I am unable to chamfer or modify these parts using my usual method.
[URL]
I've been screwing around with beams in Revit for years and still have issues with the gaps at the connections. There is a shape handle and a structural component end. Either way, the beam decides where it wants to end. If I put two precast beams end to end, resting on an inverted tee girder that needs to have the 9" tee portion extend between the two joists, Revit doesn't like that and does its own thing. I move one, the other follows. I move both far enough away from eachother, then drag one end to where it needs to be, cool, then when I drag the other...boom...they snap together. Yes, I'm aware of the "start and end extension" in the properties window, this is incredibly time consuming and if one of the beams are switched around, I need to remember if this end was the start or end. In addition, the structural component end will go initially where it wants to, so there's no guarantee that if the parameters are correct, the beam/joist will be.
Can I remove all "rules" that beams have so I can place these correctly?