I'm using Photoshop CS4 and am trying to cleanly select a flower. The flower has a white background that I'd like to remove; I've used the Select > Color Range. However, it still leaves rough edges around the flower's petals. This becomes apparent when I drop a black background behind the flower -- it has fuzzy edges that needed to have been selected and removed.
how to cleanly remove the background and not have the jagged edges?
I am trying to create a set of drawings to a standard and need to be able to create a border for them. I have tried creating a border in a layer, but it needs to be 5cm from the edge of the page.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have this assembly which includes a weldment and a derived / mirrored part where i need to identify the COG for lifting with a crane.
As you can see in the image (most components not visible), the COG is way off. The left half is the weldment, the right is the derived/mirrored part. Is there a way to get an accurate COG from Inventor 2010 short of creating a RH assembly instead of deriving the part?
I want to know if I can create a mask on a photo I have, basically Iwant to remove the background but I want to put some form of mask over the some of the photo so that no of the brush stokes etc alter that part of the image..
Can this be done at all with CS3?
I'm interested in making a Saturation Mask. Actually I want to extract the Saturation Channel.I know there's HSL / HSB Plug-In made by Adobe which is able to do so.Yet, I'm interested if there's an option creating it using the Blend Modes (Just like adding a Solid Black Layer in Color Mode creates a Luminosity Mask).
View 39 Replies View RelatedI have a problem with Photoshop automatically creating strange boxes on the layer mask when I'm sharpening the image, first with high pass, then unsharp mask. After I've already created a stamp visible layer on top of the layer mask.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have not created a document yet and would like some thought on how to do this: I want to use a continuous tone black and white image which is somewhat close to what would be a 'knockout' but with soft edges - so it gradates appropriately over the background image I want to use, making the black part of the image used as the mask become much of the effect of a gradient mask: the background image shows through whereever there is the 'black' and 'tone' of the image.
my first thought is to create a layer mask and then paste the black and white image onto that, but I'm not sure if that will work to accept the 'soft tones' of the image and work appropriately. What steps I should take to make this effect work?
I am struggling with clipping masks and after a few hours of scouring the internet and trying different techniques, I am left no closer to my end result than from when I started.
I am creating a banner. The banner contains 1 background image and some text. I'd also like to include 9 photos on top of the background image, all bound by a textured border. I have created the borders for all 9 images and have placed them on the background. Now, my questions is how I make these base layers of a clipping mask. I want the the mask to show the image, even through some of the textured border.
I know how to create the actual clipping mask of the image to be placed in the border. My question lies entirely within the base layer/border layer.
I'm following this tutorial to create an eye in Illustrator but am stuck creating the clipping mask in Step 5. I've got the irises and eyeballs on one layer with the eyeballs brought to front. However, when I select an eyeball and iris and create the clipping mask, the iris disappears.
View 3 Replies View RelatedAutoCAD LT 2013
For some reason my qleader settings will not retain as they once did. I have used them in the past with no issues, but can't seem to get AutoCAD to remember what I want. It's a real pain.
I've tried toying with mleaders. I like them for the most part, but I can't get my text to be background masked automatically (like I can with qleader). I also will need to change my text styles as my current style scales the text size. MLeader allows me to set the scale (MLEADERSCALE) for the different scales in my drawings which is nice, but without the background mask, I'd rather use QLeader.
Any way making the text with automatic background masking? I don't mind creating a text style with background mask.....if that is possible somehow.
I am trying to create a textured Mask from a photo of a floor & am having problems. I am following this tutorial: [URL] ...
I have performed the following steps but am unable to select&delete any of the white areas in the Live Trace and am thus unable to create my Mask:
Live Traced > Default
Select > Same > Fill Color
I was trying to create a clipping mask from an object that is made from two shapes, and one has appearances but I had to resort to expand appearance, then use the object as a clipping mask.
Is there really no way to keep the dynamic appearances and use a layer as a clipping mask?
So basically i have designed the top of a paper plane and have completed the top design which i now want to clip into the template using the clipping mask tool. I have used it exactly how it is supposed to'
1. firstly getting my shape that i want to use to clip exactly how i want it
2. then getting my image which i want to place under my first shape to use the clipping mask with
3. align it in place and bring my "shape" to the front and image to the back then using the selection tool i select all objects then click objects> clipping mask> make
and for some reason it clips it but the image that i wastring to clip just becomes a white fill...
How do I do this in CS4?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm having trouble getting my 3D lighting to look, well, believable in PS CS5 Ex. I've moved them around, tried different types of lights, and nothing seems to give me proper shadow contrast and glare and shine on my material. Here is a screen of a dining room setting I'm building (preliminary stage) by combining 2D and 3D elements.
The corner hutch on the right is the 3D piece and the two on the left are 2D. The walls, ceiling and floor are also all 3D as well.
My subject line pretty much sums up what I want to ask.
The thing is I've learned how to do both of them, but every textbook exercise I've done regarding one I found out that I can pull off with the other too.
Are they simply two different mechanisms for doing the same thing?
I use Photoshop CS5 12.1 for Mac.
When I set the opacity of a layer to, say, 50%, it will always go down one percent below, to 49% I'm not trying to be too picky here, but it's irritating when the opacity of the layer will always slide down one percent from what I set it as. So 68% becomes 67%, and so forth.
I have used Photoshop CS4 and and CS6 Beta and have never experienced this odd problem. When I set the exact opacity or fill, it will stay there. But with Photoshop CS5, it doesn't. I know it's not a huge problem, but like I said, it gets a bit annoying after a while, especially when I'm recording actions..
My neighbor brought a problem to me which I could not solve. He is running Photoshop CS3 10.0.1 on XPSP2. When he crops something at an angle, the resultant image is way off -- it is not what is within the crop mark. Any idea what is happening here?
I have CS2 and it works fine for me.
I'm using the Adobe Photoshop CS3 trial on a Windows Vista machine - I've been using it for a couple days and I've noticed a number of times that the image in the preview window doesn't match what I get (usually after using image adjustment tools like Layer, Contrast/Brightness, or Curves - haven't noticed it so much with Filters, but haven't been using those as much yet either).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a bunch of wooden colour samples which need scanning for a website, but have found the scan result are usually off from the real thing. Understand that it's not going to be possible to get a 100% match, would would like to have something which is quite close to how it looks in real life.
there are text labels on the wood in white, after scanning the text appears as colour #a2b5c2 (blueish-grey), the wood itself is a dark brown but appears much lighter. have managed to find a picture of how it should look, compared to the one I scanned.
I like to set lines for cropping on the canvas. The vertical ruler is perfectly accurate. The horizontal ruler is off by alot. This is on cs4. The canvas size is adjusted to be A2 (420x594mm) The crop marks are with the ruler in inches to 16x20.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a web page layout project on Adobe Photoshop CS and I was wondering:
What effects should I apply to get a look for my top like those ones (I've got the shape)
it asks to select a percentage of a color. Example (30% black, 45% gray)
I don't understand how to accurately get a percentage of color.
how to get percentages of color conveniently in Photoshop?
I use the histogram feature in PS to figure out how many square feet of yarn I will use in a rug that I am making (I work as a rug designer). I am running into a problem with this which is scary because my numbers have to be accurate.
As an example, I may have a 9x12 (inch--this is later blown up to feet using a transparency) drawing. In the drawing there may be 45 organic looking shapes that will be green. I use the magic wand tool and choose all of these green shapes. What I am noticing is that once I get to a certain number (not always consistent) in the histogram reading it will all of a sudden change to a different number and go to (for example) Cache 3. Because of this I have no idea if my histogram reading is accurate.
Is this some sort of memory issue? How do I prevent this from happening so that I can get an accurate heading?
I finding problems in trying to align my buttons in Photoshop with equal space between the buttons . Aligning web buttons in Photoshop.
In illustrator i have a method with the snap to point(snaps the object to nearest vertices i can then align the buttons with equal space, However the snap to layer. does not seem to be accurate in Photoshop.
Using PS CS5.1, converting a large space image to sRGB for web use does not give accurate render in actual browser. This is a common problem, but usually there are a couple of simple user errors that lead to this, and it usually means a less saturated image. This, however, seems unlikely to be user error, as I've tested it with a freshly created, sRGB image, with simple gradient, outputting it with embedded profile (non-embedded gives identical results in browser), and it becomes overly saturated.
The interesting, and probably all telling thing, is that viewing the optimized web version with Monitor Color selected in the preview gives what my browser actually shows me. Likewise, soft proofing using my Monitor RGB gives the same image as my browser.
I'm on WinXP x64. Browser is Firefox, and I've tried all three color management settings with no change, and also same results with Chrome browser.
This grad is in the ProPhoto space, converted during save for web. Color is a good match, with a slight shift, not unexpectedly. Note, preview is with Internet Standard RGB.
Same grad, this time with the preview set to Monitor Color. There is quite a saturation increase. This is what my browser actually shows me. I do not have desaturate colors selected in my color settings.
Take Raw photo - use adjustment layers to modify image - save as PSD - place saved image in indesign - scale to appropriate size - save PDF - Print at printers. Sometimes I get moiré patterns, sometimes I get speckled images like using a sharpening tool or filter far too excessively.
Should I be resizing in Photoshop to exact final dimensions?
hi which is your best soft brush for accurate masks? for example add blurr and mask the hairs in a headshot and the face or in short you fav brush to make accurate masks? i use the normal brush hardness 0% but i know there are many many brushes to download ,with different shapes have a nice day
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've been having trouble printing color prints with PSE 9. They appear kind of pale or less vivid (unacceptably so), the colors are just not as they appear on my monitor. I'm using an Epson R2880, iMac 10.6.8. It prints b&w beautifully. I've been through Epson tech support, checked nozzles and cleaned heads. While speaking with Espon they suggested I print from another application, so I tried using iPhoto, colors came out accurately there. I happen to still have PSE 8 still on my computer, so I attempted to print from there, the colors were also more accurate there (and that's without using the ICC profiles I have in PSE 9 ). It seems the issue is unique to PSE 9. I've tried changing my color setting, typically I have it set to AdobeRGB, but have tried "no color management". I have my monitor calibrated, use proper ICC profiles for any papers I use (and have tried multiple papers).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am basically wondering what are the best settings for the most accurate prints? I normally do web design so I don't really have to worry much, but I am doing some brochures and I am a bit lost.
The printing company requires:
500 DPI (More of a recommendation)
CMYK
A5 148mm x 210mm without bleed 152mm x 214mm with bleed
PDF file as the end file type (Preferred, not required)
Now, I have set my document to 500 DPI, CMYK and 152mm x 214mm but I'm not sure if I need to set my color library to something else? Also, I notice that some colors don't appear to be very strong, like red for example, it looks very washed out.
I find it so frustrating when I spend time editing a photograph in PSE 9 only to find when when I'm done, the finished product looks completely different everywhere else on my computer and online. The Photoshop display is too light and washes out the photos, giving an inaccurate image. Is there any way to set the display to be more accurate?
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