hi which is your best soft brush for accurate masks? for example add blurr and mask the hairs in a headshot and the face or in short you fav brush to make accurate masks? i use the normal brush hardness 0% but i know there are many many brushes to download ,with different shapes have a nice day
View 2 RepliesI am having trouble with using my layer masks. I can use the masks that are hidden (shown with black screen) and apply them with the white brush, but I cant get white or shown masks to be taken off with the black brush. Sometimes, not always I have trouble adjusting the opacity of white masks. I was playing around with actions I downloaded and after applying three actions to a photo, elements froze on me. I read about trashing preferences, I dont know what that does or means but I tried to hit cntrol alt shift when photoshop was opening and nothing happened. When it first opens it shows I can install the new inspiration browser ( i dont know what that is either) thinking it was a required update I tried to update and it gave me an error message, something about the installer has been mis-configured.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhen i pick my brush tool and try to get a soft brush from the drop down menu they all look white, i don't see a soft brush from a non soft brush.
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow you add little blotches of color like these pictures here...
View 4 Replies View RelatedI used the magnetic lasso tool and need to soften the edges of the picture. My tutorials and book tell me that under the selection brush tool I will find the option for a soft-edge brush. Well when I click on the selection brush tool nothing comes up.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have been searching for a brush, preferably a soft round, that will grow in circumference as I paint a straight line.
i.e. : a brush that starts at say 15px then changes to (e.g.) 18px then 21px, 24px, 27px so on and so forth (And I mean one that will do this without having to stop and change the px size manually).
I tried the brush settings where one can change the angle, roundness, px size etc. but there doesn't seem to be a setting that'll provide what I'm trying to achieve.
I've been Google'n for the last 45+ minutes without any luck. Founds lots of other really nice brushes & btw, if a brush says that it's for Photoshop Cs4 do you know if that means I cannot use it for Cs6? Just wondering.
So, if you already have such a brush would you be willing and/or able to share, or if you know how I can make one myself, that would (also) be great.
PS. If making a brush is difficult to explain just tell me and I will find a tutorial online. I don't mean to ask you to do my homework.
I've never had this problem before. I'm using the standard soft round brush to blend colors, which has always given a smooth effect, but now it suddenly looks all pixelated. The brush strokes also appears in rings instead of a smooth gradient. It looks as if the picture has been sharpened too much or saved in bad quality. I've already tried things like changing the brush settings, deleting Photoshop preferences, increasing the RAM assigned to Photoshop, but nothing works.
View 98 Replies View Relatedi have been using PS cs6 for the last 1 month n have never encountered any problems or errors, but today when i started to paint a problem for Soft Brushes is appearing..it works fine for hard brushes, but when i switch to soft brush the edge of the soft brush appears grainy.. i have reinstalled the software, but doesn't work...i m using the same setting for CS5 and it works fine in PS cs5, don't know why suddenly this problem occured. (sys. config.: Win7 64bit, 1gb NVIDIA graphics card, 6GB ram, core i3 processor)
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've been using adjustment layers (curves) and creating a dark / light layer, and then using a brush with opacity of say 30-50% to paint onto the mask to show dark / light in selected areas of an image.
Until yesterday this was working fine. Now however, my brush is appearing pixelated, and scattered about like an airbrush or spray paint. Rather than all the brush being smooth. Even at 100% opacity, not all of the pixels are altered, instead there are clearly visible (when zoomed in) pixels which are lightened / darkened, and some which have been totally unaffected, which leads to a horrible pixelated effect.
this worked until yesterday. I didn't install any software on the pc or change any settings that I can think of. I'm using photoshop cs2. I've rebooted the computer several times and I've quit/restarted photoshop several times.
when I create an adjustment layer, I cannot paint black in the mask area. I can fill with black and paint white. if, after filling black and painting white, I press D (to swap foreground/background colors), I can paint, a paintbrush thing shows up in the history, but it won't change. if I press D again, and paint some more white, it shows up in white. likewise, if I choose black another way (eyedropper, setting rgb to 0,0,0), it behaves the same. likewise, if I don't start out by filling black, and I just try to paint black on the white mask, it behaves the same (doesn't work).
if I create a new layer, I can paint black on it. If I switch to the pencil tool rather than the brush tool, I can pencil black into my adjustment layer masks.
any suggestions?
or what info can I get for you so you have a good place to start?
I'm working on making a really awesome pic but I'm stuck. The style I use in all of my pics is by making a new layer, changing it to color mode, then making rainbow colors with a really soft brush. Everything was going fine until I threw some text in there. Now when I paint, the text stays the same color!
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to re-edit some of my birding photos (CR2 raw images). I have difficult masks that were created in LR3 and took alot of time due to feathers on a complicated background. I do not want to have to re-mask everything in LR4. When I have imported my files to LR4 the original LR3 mask is still present. However, the sliders for Temp, Tint, Hightlights, Shadows, Saturation, Noise, Moire and Defringe are missing. I want to do localized noise control to keep feather sharpness so I need the Noise slider.
If I work on a photo that had no LR3 mask all sliders are available. If a mask from LR3 exists I am missing sliders. URL...
I'm having trouble getting my 3D lighting to look, well, believable in PS CS5 Ex. I've moved them around, tried different types of lights, and nothing seems to give me proper shadow contrast and glare and shine on my material. Here is a screen of a dining room setting I'm building (preliminary stage) by combining 2D and 3D elements.
The corner hutch on the right is the 3D piece and the two on the left are 2D. The walls, ceiling and floor are also all 3D as well.
I use Photoshop CS5 12.1 for Mac.
When I set the opacity of a layer to, say, 50%, it will always go down one percent below, to 49% I'm not trying to be too picky here, but it's irritating when the opacity of the layer will always slide down one percent from what I set it as. So 68% becomes 67%, and so forth.
I have used Photoshop CS4 and and CS6 Beta and have never experienced this odd problem. When I set the exact opacity or fill, it will stay there. But with Photoshop CS5, it doesn't. I know it's not a huge problem, but like I said, it gets a bit annoying after a while, especially when I'm recording actions..
My neighbor brought a problem to me which I could not solve. He is running Photoshop CS3 10.0.1 on XPSP2. When he crops something at an angle, the resultant image is way off -- it is not what is within the crop mark. Any idea what is happening here?
I have CS2 and it works fine for me.
I'm using the Adobe Photoshop CS3 trial on a Windows Vista machine - I've been using it for a couple days and I've noticed a number of times that the image in the preview window doesn't match what I get (usually after using image adjustment tools like Layer, Contrast/Brightness, or Curves - haven't noticed it so much with Filters, but haven't been using those as much yet either).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a bunch of wooden colour samples which need scanning for a website, but have found the scan result are usually off from the real thing. Understand that it's not going to be possible to get a 100% match, would would like to have something which is quite close to how it looks in real life.
there are text labels on the wood in white, after scanning the text appears as colour #a2b5c2 (blueish-grey), the wood itself is a dark brown but appears much lighter. have managed to find a picture of how it should look, compared to the one I scanned.
I like to set lines for cropping on the canvas. The vertical ruler is perfectly accurate. The horizontal ruler is off by alot. This is on cs4. The canvas size is adjusted to be A2 (420x594mm) The crop marks are with the ruler in inches to 16x20.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a web page layout project on Adobe Photoshop CS and I was wondering:
What effects should I apply to get a look for my top like those ones (I've got the shape)
I'm using Photoshop CS4 and am trying to cleanly select a flower. The flower has a white background that I'd like to remove; I've used the Select > Color Range. However, it still leaves rough edges around the flower's petals. This becomes apparent when I drop a black background behind the flower -- it has fuzzy edges that needed to have been selected and removed.
how to cleanly remove the background and not have the jagged edges?
it asks to select a percentage of a color. Example (30% black, 45% gray)
I don't understand how to accurately get a percentage of color.
how to get percentages of color conveniently in Photoshop?
I use the histogram feature in PS to figure out how many square feet of yarn I will use in a rug that I am making (I work as a rug designer). I am running into a problem with this which is scary because my numbers have to be accurate.
As an example, I may have a 9x12 (inch--this is later blown up to feet using a transparency) drawing. In the drawing there may be 45 organic looking shapes that will be green. I use the magic wand tool and choose all of these green shapes. What I am noticing is that once I get to a certain number (not always consistent) in the histogram reading it will all of a sudden change to a different number and go to (for example) Cache 3. Because of this I have no idea if my histogram reading is accurate.
Is this some sort of memory issue? How do I prevent this from happening so that I can get an accurate heading?
I finding problems in trying to align my buttons in Photoshop with equal space between the buttons . Aligning web buttons in Photoshop.
In illustrator i have a method with the snap to point(snaps the object to nearest vertices i can then align the buttons with equal space, However the snap to layer. does not seem to be accurate in Photoshop.
Using PS CS5.1, converting a large space image to sRGB for web use does not give accurate render in actual browser. This is a common problem, but usually there are a couple of simple user errors that lead to this, and it usually means a less saturated image. This, however, seems unlikely to be user error, as I've tested it with a freshly created, sRGB image, with simple gradient, outputting it with embedded profile (non-embedded gives identical results in browser), and it becomes overly saturated.
The interesting, and probably all telling thing, is that viewing the optimized web version with Monitor Color selected in the preview gives what my browser actually shows me. Likewise, soft proofing using my Monitor RGB gives the same image as my browser.
I'm on WinXP x64. Browser is Firefox, and I've tried all three color management settings with no change, and also same results with Chrome browser.
This grad is in the ProPhoto space, converted during save for web. Color is a good match, with a slight shift, not unexpectedly. Note, preview is with Internet Standard RGB.
Same grad, this time with the preview set to Monitor Color. There is quite a saturation increase. This is what my browser actually shows me. I do not have desaturate colors selected in my color settings.
Take Raw photo - use adjustment layers to modify image - save as PSD - place saved image in indesign - scale to appropriate size - save PDF - Print at printers. Sometimes I get moiré patterns, sometimes I get speckled images like using a sharpening tool or filter far too excessively.
Should I be resizing in Photoshop to exact final dimensions?
I've been having trouble printing color prints with PSE 9. They appear kind of pale or less vivid (unacceptably so), the colors are just not as they appear on my monitor. I'm using an Epson R2880, iMac 10.6.8. It prints b&w beautifully. I've been through Epson tech support, checked nozzles and cleaned heads. While speaking with Espon they suggested I print from another application, so I tried using iPhoto, colors came out accurately there. I happen to still have PSE 8 still on my computer, so I attempted to print from there, the colors were also more accurate there (and that's without using the ICC profiles I have in PSE 9 ). It seems the issue is unique to PSE 9. I've tried changing my color setting, typically I have it set to AdobeRGB, but have tried "no color management". I have my monitor calibrated, use proper ICC profiles for any papers I use (and have tried multiple papers).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am basically wondering what are the best settings for the most accurate prints? I normally do web design so I don't really have to worry much, but I am doing some brochures and I am a bit lost.
The printing company requires:
500 DPI (More of a recommendation)
CMYK
A5 148mm x 210mm without bleed 152mm x 214mm with bleed
PDF file as the end file type (Preferred, not required)
Now, I have set my document to 500 DPI, CMYK and 152mm x 214mm but I'm not sure if I need to set my color library to something else? Also, I notice that some colors don't appear to be very strong, like red for example, it looks very washed out.
I find it so frustrating when I spend time editing a photograph in PSE 9 only to find when when I'm done, the finished product looks completely different everywhere else on my computer and online. The Photoshop display is too light and washes out the photos, giving an inaccurate image. Is there any way to set the display to be more accurate?
View 6 Replies View RelatedLooking for an accurate duplicate images / photos program finder. I tried quite few but none of them were accurate.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am trying to print from Photoshop CS6 to an Epson PictureMate color printer and an Epson PictureMate 225 printer. In both cases I want to let Photoshop manage color. I am finding no color profile for Epson in the list of profiles provided by Photoshop. The best I can do is choose “display” as my profile. Still my color prints do not match what I see on my screen in Photoshop. They are flat and washed out. How can I obtain print profiles for my Epson Printers to be used with Photoshop 6?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to create a collage, will be my 10th high school anniversary soon and I really want to do this calmly before hand *ie. not in a rush as i do everything else*
the thing is i like this type of blending: photo blending type on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
but can't seem to replicate it with my own photos. I've tried reading up on various tutorials all over the net but most usually say to either use a soft eraser or vignette effect and i don't think the latter was used here and i tried the eraser and that just turned out ugly! Anyone with any suggestions on how to replicate this blending type ....