I'm trying to create a collage, will be my 10th high school anniversary soon and I really want to do this calmly before hand *ie. not in a rush as i do everything else*
the thing is i like this type of blending: photo blending type on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
but can't seem to replicate it with my own photos. I've tried reading up on various tutorials all over the net but most usually say to either use a soft eraser or vignette effect and i don't think the latter was used here and i tried the eraser and that just turned out ugly! Anyone with any suggestions on how to replicate this blending type ....
I've got this .jpg picture which I derived from one japanese game.
It shows a character in color at the left and its borders at the right. It also have a nasty white background. What I want to achieve is to get rid of background , making it transparent, while keeping the colored character AND not harming its soft edges. The final file should be .png I wonder if it's possible and how. My previous attempts were fruitless, as everytime I ended bluring the edges manually.
I've got a very annoying problem. When drawing rectangles with grid / guidelines showing using 960 Grid System (although it happens with other documents as well), the edges of the rectangle are not sharp, e.g. http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6232/blurred.png - note top and right side is blurred. There are no styles applied.
When I switch off grids / guidelines, the rectangles are always sharp.
Also, resizing rectangles causes loss of sharpness to edges.
So basically, I created coloured text inside Adobe Illustrator and however much I zoom into the text, the text always appears to have smooth edges. Once I click on 'Save For Web', the edge all around the text becomes rough and aliased. I chose GIF and PNG, but it still happens. The text is on a transparency background. The same problem applies to images when I am creating a logo.
I thought this was going to be a piece of cake in the new Illustrator CC but I am having a few unanticipated issues:)I need to create some vector tire images with different edges, such as the top one in the image below.So I thought this would be SO easy by simply creating a pattern brush in Illustrator and then using that for the outside. So I created the shape you see in the middle image below and created a pattern brush with this shape.I then created an ellipse and used the new brush for the outline.
All of those are open paths...it has taken the shape and applied it to the outline but has kept each shape separate, so I am not able to fill the circle in black. I could of course go in and manually join each little corner separately where the little shapes meet but this will take FOREVER with all the images I have to do.
I'm trying to snap a head with it's neck with the merge edge tool, but somewhere along the way, the edges lost there border edge characteristics and now I can't merge the edges. Is there a way to make the edges back to the way they were?
I should like the attached image to fade seamlessly into a black background. The image is actually to be put onto a DVD disc label which means (I guess) that the resultant image shape should be either circular or oval.
Im using the pen tool and stroking it with the brush tool and clicking the stimulate pressure setting but I still get hard edges at the end of the strokes.
I'm having with profiling my monitor/printer. I use an i1 Proof which includes the ability to profile my printer but my printer at the moment is a small Epson desktop printer - R220. "Near-as-damn_it" is my usual standard and suits me for general photography. At the moment I am photographing paintings with more exacting standards for reproduction.
I callibrate both monitor and printer. I have read and re-read instructions and use genuine paper/ink. My prints are appear a little darker than my monitor and in fact, the original painting. So can Soft proofing give an idea of the accuracy of the profile? (that's my main question).
Here are my settings
Device to simulate - myPrinterPaperProfile Preserve RGB numbers - Not checked REndering Intent - Perceptual Black Point Compensation - checked Simulate Paper - checked (which also auto checks the simulate black ink option)
Now, if that's my sofr proof setting and I toggle ctrl-y I am flipping between an impression of my printer profile and the actual display profile - is that correct? If I could put a screen shot of the two on the web,
I came across this very nice graphic a while back, and was wondering how they got the soft flat metal look. I'm told it's gradients and highlights, but I'm not sure exactly how they're done (my efforts didn't pan out).
how to get the following effects like the photos shown below...I've tried saturation, highlights, brightness/contrast and still can't seem to get this beautiful soft warm glow effect.
I came across this forum as I was browsing various techniques on how I can improve and I very much tried to duplicate the colors/tone/atmosphere of this photo:
I don't know how to quite explain it or if I am using the right terms, but you can notice that the overall tone and color of the photo is somewhat washed out? Like the colors are a bit muted and soft but not too extremely so. And yet none of the picture loses its crispness. The colors look soft? I don't know how to quite explain it articulately.
I first tried to make a duplicate layer and then blurred it, and then proceeded to reduce its opacity, but that just made everything look "glowy", like something from heaven.
Let's assume that I have an image, foo.psd, open in PSCS4. I softproof the image for a particular paper and printer. When I hit Ctrl-Y, the image is shown in softproof mode, and the softproofing info is appended to the image name in the PSCS4 window. Is there any way to save a copy of foo.psd with the soft proofing applied, i.e. foo-softproof.psd?
I. Per the instructions of the printer who's printing my work, I've converted my image profiles to Dot Gain 20%. I would like to make sure that what I'm seeing on my screen will a) be a close match to what she (the woman printing the work) will see on her screen; and b) give me a sense of how the printer (Espson Stylist Pro 4800) will interpret and print the work.I should change my Proof Setup to Dot Gain 20%, no?
II. I also need to make a set of jpegs that will be seen on a variety of screens, each of a different make and calibration. These jpegs need to be as convincing a match to the print as possible, with allowances, of course being made for paper, ink, etc. The match has to be close. Is there a standard for softproofing that will allow me to see what's likely to appear on a given screen. A tall order, I know. Wondering if I should just inform the viewers to view the jpegs with their monitors set to a certain color profile--or if I should send them a monitor profile along with the jpegs.
Canvas rotation is a great tool, but something bugs me about it: As is commonly known, Photoshop offers pre-set zoom levels. By that I mean 25%, 33,3%, 50%, 66,7%, 100%, et. In other words: The zoom level Photoshop jumps to when using the + or - buttons on the keyboard. If an image is in it´s normal orientation on the screen, it appears sharp at all zoom levels. This changes however with canvas rotation.
Rotated at 90°, 180° and 270° the appearance of sharpness is maintained at all zoom levels. But with a rotation in between those values the appearance of sharpness is maintained only at 33,3% and 66,7% zoom. 25%, 50% and 100% make the image appear soft when combined with free canvas rotation.
Could it be the graphics card/driver having a problem with the image represantion while canvas rotation is used? And if so, what kind of graphic processor/driver would be able to maintain the appearance of sharpness at all zoom levels, while canvas rotation is being used?
Before I come across as being nitpicky: I´m mainly using Photoshop for illustration, which means a lot of freehand sketching. Being able to rotate the image area is therefore very important for me, and at some point this soft appearance of an image started to slightly annoy me because it´s slightly blurring detail. I guess it´s the same with seamlessly zooming in and out: At odd zoom levels the image becomes kinda soft as well, even without canvas rotation.
A little excursion into the past, to clarify this issue further: Let´s wind the clocks back to pre-creative suite days. Back then I noticed something strange with those pre set zoom levels in Photoshop. The image appeared perfectly fine at 25%, 50% and 100%, but had jagged edges at 33,3% and 66,7% (as if overly sharpened), which basiclly forced me to work only with the zoom levels mentioned first. Now this problem is gone, which I guess is mainly due to improved graphic drivers (if not: Let me know, I´m always willing to learn).
having problems getting consistent archival inkjet prints from the places I have tried. I am now looking at 'soft proofing' which I suspect is not without its pearls. The problems I experienced before where the images were not converted to the correct profile was that sometimes they would print out,
at great cost correctly and sometime they would not, again at great cost. If the image is converted to the correct colour profile, in this case Hahnemule, will the embedded profile that the image will be printed out consistently and 2 different days?
I used the magnetic lasso tool and need to soften the edges of the picture. My tutorials and book tell me that under the selection brush tool I will find the option for a soft-edge brush. Well when I click on the selection brush tool nothing comes up.
hi which is your best soft brush for accurate masks? for example add blurr and mask the hairs in a headshot and the face or in short you fav brush to make accurate masks? i use the normal brush hardness 0% but i know there are many many brushes to download ,with different shapes have a nice day
an old box of Crane Museo paper to make some prints on my Epson 3800. I downloaded and installed the Museo profile from Crane almost a year ago, and it shows up in the Windows/sys32/spool/drivers/color directory, along with all my other profiles.
But when I tried to soft proof the image in CS3, the Museo profile did not appear in the list in the Soft Proof dialog. On closer look, there were a few other profiles that also failed to appear.
Is there any way to manually add these profiles to the Soft Proof list? I always thought that the Soft Proof drop down list just picked up the entire "...../color" directory?
When using the text tool in CS1, shift+enter would give you a new line within the existing paragraph (I believe it's called a soft return?), so it keeps the leading but doesn't add the "space after paragraph". In CS3 this doesn't work and it's really screwing with my ability to create decent web page mockups.
