I came across this very nice graphic a while back, and was wondering how they got the soft flat metal look. I'm told it's gradients and highlights, but I'm not sure exactly how they're done (my efforts didn't pan out).
View 9 Replieshow you add little blotches of color like these pictures here...
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to create a collage, will be my 10th high school anniversary soon and I really want to do this calmly before hand *ie. not in a rush as i do everything else*
the thing is i like this type of blending: photo blending type on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
but can't seem to replicate it with my own photos. I've tried reading up on various tutorials all over the net but most usually say to either use a soft eraser or vignette effect and i don't think the latter was used here and i tried the eraser and that just turned out ugly! Anyone with any suggestions on how to replicate this blending type ....
I should like the attached image to fade seamlessly into a black background. The image is actually to be put onto a DVD disc label which means (I guess) that the resultant image shape should be either circular or oval.
View 2 Replies View RelatedIm using the pen tool and stroking it with the brush tool and clicking the stimulate pressure setting but I still get hard edges at the end of the strokes.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm having with profiling my monitor/printer. I use an i1 Proof which includes the ability to profile my printer but my printer at the moment is a small Epson desktop printer - R220. "Near-as-damn_it" is my usual standard and suits me for general photography. At the moment I am photographing paintings with more exacting standards for reproduction.
I callibrate both monitor and printer. I have read and re-read instructions and use genuine paper/ink. My prints are appear a little darker than my monitor and in fact, the original painting. So can Soft proofing give an idea of the accuracy of the profile? (that's my main question).
Here are my settings
Device to simulate - myPrinterPaperProfile
Preserve RGB numbers - Not checked
REndering Intent - Perceptual
Black Point Compensation - checked
Simulate Paper - checked (which also auto checks the simulate black ink option)
Now, if that's my sofr proof setting and I toggle ctrl-y I am flipping between an impression of my printer profile and the actual display profile - is that correct? If I could put a screen shot of the two on the web,
Does anyone know the technique to apply a soft focus to an image using the actions palette? Some would refer to it as "the move"...
View 2 Replies View RelatedI made a video tutorial on cutting out soft shadows in Photoshop that many of you may find useful.
View 5 Replies View RelatedSoft Brushes are not appearing in Cs6
View 13 Replies View Relatedhow to do the stuff I was w/ the older version!
With the new photoshop how do I add the soft glow effect on portrait subjects?
I've got this .jpg picture which I derived from one japanese game.
It shows a character in color at the left and its borders at the right. It also have a nasty white background.
What I want to achieve is to get rid of background , making it transparent, while keeping the colored character AND not harming its soft edges. The final file should be .png
I wonder if it's possible and how. My previous attempts were fruitless, as everytime I ended bluring the edges manually.
how to get the following effects like the photos shown below...I've tried saturation, highlights, brightness/contrast and still can't seem to get this beautiful soft warm glow effect.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI came across this forum as I was browsing various techniques on how I can improve and I very much tried to duplicate the colors/tone/atmosphere of this photo:
I don't know how to quite explain it or if I am using the right terms, but you can notice that the overall tone and color of the photo is somewhat washed out? Like the colors are a bit muted and soft but not too extremely so. And yet none of the picture loses its crispness. The colors look soft? I don't know how to quite explain it articulately.
I first tried to make a duplicate layer and then blurred it, and then proceeded to reduce its opacity, but that just made everything look "glowy", like something from heaven.
Let's assume that I have an image, foo.psd, open in PSCS4. I softproof the image for a particular paper and printer. When I hit Ctrl-Y, the image is shown in softproof mode, and the softproofing info is appended to the image name in the PSCS4 window. Is there any way to save a copy of foo.psd with the soft proofing applied, i.e. foo-softproof.psd?
View 8 Replies View Relatedhow to create a soft glow/glare often found in glass surfaced objects?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI. Per the instructions of the printer who's printing my work, I've converted my image profiles to Dot Gain 20%. I would like to make sure that what I'm seeing on my screen will a) be a close match to what she (the woman printing the work) will see on her screen; and b) give me a sense of how the printer (Espson Stylist Pro 4800) will interpret and print the work.I should change my Proof Setup to Dot Gain 20%, no?
II. I also need to make a set of jpegs that will be seen on a variety of screens, each of a different make and calibration. These jpegs need to be as convincing a match to the print as possible, with allowances, of course being made for paper, ink, etc. The match has to be close. Is there a standard for softproofing that will allow me to see what's likely to appear on a given screen. A tall order, I know. Wondering if I should just inform the viewers to view the jpegs with their monitors set to a certain color profile--or if I should send them a monitor profile along with the jpegs.
Canvas rotation is a great tool, but something bugs me about it: As is commonly known, Photoshop offers pre-set zoom levels. By that I mean 25%, 33,3%, 50%, 66,7%, 100%, et. In other words: The zoom level Photoshop jumps to when using the + or - buttons on the keyboard. If an image is in it´s normal orientation on the screen, it appears sharp at all zoom levels. This changes however with canvas rotation.
Rotated at 90°, 180° and 270° the appearance of sharpness is maintained at all zoom levels. But with a rotation in between those values the appearance of sharpness is maintained only at 33,3% and 66,7% zoom. 25%, 50% and 100% make the image appear soft when combined with free canvas rotation.
Could it be the graphics card/driver having a problem with the image represantion while canvas rotation is used? And if so, what kind of graphic processor/driver would be able to maintain the appearance of sharpness at all zoom levels, while canvas rotation is being used?
Before I come across as being nitpicky: I´m mainly using Photoshop for illustration, which means a lot of freehand sketching. Being able to rotate the image area is therefore very important for me, and at some point this soft appearance of an image started to slightly annoy me because it´s slightly blurring detail. I guess it´s the same with seamlessly zooming in and out: At odd zoom levels the image becomes kinda soft as well, even without canvas rotation.
A little excursion into the past, to clarify this issue further: Let´s wind the clocks back to pre-creative suite days. Back then I noticed something strange with those pre set zoom levels in Photoshop. The image appeared perfectly fine at 25%, 50% and 100%, but had jagged edges at 33,3% and 66,7% (as if overly sharpened), which basiclly forced me to work only with the zoom levels mentioned first. Now this problem is gone, which I guess is mainly due to improved graphic drivers (if not: Let me know, I´m always willing to learn).
having problems getting consistent archival inkjet prints from the places I have tried. I am now looking at 'soft proofing' which I suspect is not without its pearls. The problems I experienced before where the images were not converted to the correct profile was that sometimes they would print out,
at great cost correctly and sometime they would not, again at great cost. If the image is converted to the correct colour profile, in this case Hahnemule, will the embedded profile that the image will be printed out consistently and 2 different days?
What is this effect called? I'd like to do some research into it so I can master the technique but I don't know where to startlooking.
View 5 Replies View Relatedhow this 'soft' effect can be created for photos using Photoshop?I have tried searching on Google with little luck but hoping a PS expert.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI used the magnetic lasso tool and need to soften the edges of the picture. My tutorials and book tell me that under the selection brush tool I will find the option for a soft-edge brush. Well when I click on the selection brush tool nothing comes up.
View 3 Replies View Relatedhi which is your best soft brush for accurate masks? for example add blurr and mask the hairs in a headshot and the face or in short you fav brush to make accurate masks? i use the normal brush hardness 0% but i know there are many many brushes to download ,with different shapes have a nice day
View 2 Replies View Relatednot sure if it's a filter of they're using the gausion blur filter. I tried the blur filter but I dom't like the results.
on the main image of this poster. Certain areas of the picture have a soft focus.
an old box of Crane Museo paper to make some prints on my Epson 3800. I downloaded and installed the Museo profile from Crane almost a year ago, and it shows up in the Windows/sys32/spool/drivers/color directory, along with all my other profiles.
But when I tried to soft proof the image in CS3, the Museo profile did not appear in the list in the Soft Proof dialog. On closer look, there were a few other profiles that also failed to appear.
Is there any way to manually add these profiles to the Soft Proof list? I always thought that the Soft Proof drop down list just picked up the entire "...../color" directory?
how to achieve this kind of look, normally used in wedding photography.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've recently upgraded to CS3 from CS1,
When using the text tool in CS1, shift+enter would give you a new line within the existing paragraph (I believe it's called a soft return?), so it keeps the leading but doesn't add the "space after paragraph". In CS3 this doesn't work and it's really screwing with my ability to create decent web page mockups.
I'm trying to create a border for several pictures that is amorphous and just has the picture fading off to black in a nondescript shape. This is my attempt, but I'd like to not have the blur, but rather a fade from the color of the picture to black.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI used to be able to do a "soft" line break in photoshop by hitting "shift + enter." it's not working anymore-- it's only giving me a "hard return".
are we no longer able to do soft breaks in photoshop anymore?
I have been searching for a brush, preferably a soft round, that will grow in circumference as I paint a straight line.
i.e. : a brush that starts at say 15px then changes to (e.g.) 18px then 21px, 24px, 27px so on and so forth (And I mean one that will do this without having to stop and change the px size manually).
I tried the brush settings where one can change the angle, roundness, px size etc. but there doesn't seem to be a setting that'll provide what I'm trying to achieve.
I've been Google'n for the last 45+ minutes without any luck. Founds lots of other really nice brushes & btw, if a brush says that it's for Photoshop Cs4 do you know if that means I cannot use it for Cs6? Just wondering.
So, if you already have such a brush would you be willing and/or able to share, or if you know how I can make one myself, that would (also) be great.
PS. If making a brush is difficult to explain just tell me and I will find a tutorial online. I don't mean to ask you to do my homework.
I've never had this problem before. I'm using the standard soft round brush to blend colors, which has always given a smooth effect, but now it suddenly looks all pixelated. The brush strokes also appears in rings instead of a smooth gradient. It looks as if the picture has been sharpened too much or saved in bad quality. I've already tried things like changing the brush settings, deleting Photoshop preferences, increasing the RAM assigned to Photoshop, but nothing works.
View 98 Replies View RelatedI am wondering if it is necessary to fill an empty soft light layer with 50% neutral grey before dodging or burning with a black or white brush? Other than making the brush strokes more visible when viewing the layer by itself does filling the layer first with 50% neutral grey do anything else? If one was to have painted the same black and white brush strokes on an empty layer set to soft light would there be any difference?
View 2 Replies View Related