I've been drawing with Autocad for many years now, I've just upgraded to LT2012.
My problem is with the object snaps. They don't seem accurate enough. For e.g. I'll use end point to snap to a line or a corner and it will seem to work, but when I zoom in the object or the lines are not one on top of each other as they should be.
I'm doing drawings right now and the problem is just compounding as I continue. Nothing is perpendicular or parallel as they should be.
We recently had a draftsman that drew with snap on (he no longer works here), and now all the drawings he worked on have this setting turned on. I thought it would be as simple as opening up the drawings and either hitting F9 or clicking on the toggle to turn off snap. That doesn't seem to be the case. Snap mode seems to be tied to individual sheets, and every viewport. I have multiple sheets in a drawing and each sheet has multiple viewports. The last thing I want to do is open every drawing, click in every viewport on every sheet to turn off snap.
I have snapmode set to 0, but it will only turn it of in whatever sheet or viewport is active. I have to write a lisp routine that will go through every viewport on every sheet to set snapmode to 0?
Object Snap.jpg I want to pick the point where the circle hits the edge of the box but there seems to be no Intersection there. But they are on the same plane!
Snap commands in X6? I can not get the snap to grid to turn off. The button is off and the setting is set to off in options. Objects seem to snap all over not just to the grid. And the grid snap seems to be out of alignment-I cant seem to get objects to snap exactly to the grid.
The same files reopened in X5 are fine. This started with yesterdays install of 6.2. leaving X2 completely unusable.
I'm trying to snap one object to the other with vert snap.
It's trying to snap from the center of my object rather then the vert I am hovering over. In the Snap settings I have only "vertex" checked so it should snap to whatever vertex I hover over but no...This keeps up I'm going back to 2008 when all this worked fine.
If I have a long column (100) of blocks on, say, 1" centers. I want to select block numbers 1 through 98 and copy them to another location. I enter CO, left click and hold to create a selection fence starting at the #1 end, then zoom in (using the wheel) to the last 4 blocks to accurately place the end of the fence between #98 & 99. I'm expecting to have selected #1 - 98 but find that I have only copied 97 and 98. Blocks that were no longer visible on the screen are not copied.
The diametric dimension on the right, dia. 244.9 isn't resembling the real dimension in the weldment.You see in the sketch of extrusion 2 that i gave an internal diameter of 245.
I am trying to create a set of drawings to a standard and need to be able to create a border for them. I have tried creating a border in a layer, but it needs to be 5cm from the edge of the page.
The main question I have is when should I delete lines in my surface, so if there is literature on how to manipulate surfaces created from survey data that would be perfect.
I have a polyline which consists of straight lines and curves in 2D enviroment.
I want to extract some coordinates. I usually use block refferences and "dataextraction" command. However, the problem is as follows:
I need to mark many things along the polyline's way at no constant intervals (not possible to "measure" it) If I have "osnap" on, I can't hit the spots I like for obvious reasons. If I have "osnap" off, I can't place the object accurately on polyline's way.
So, what I need is: how to allign multiple blocks to a said polyline. Allignment needs to be done as accurate as possible, prefferably perpendicularly to closest tangent of polyline.
I have this assembly which includes a weldment and a derived / mirrored part where i need to identify the COG for lifting with a crane.
As you can see in the image (most components not visible), the COG is way off. The left half is the weldment, the right is the derived/mirrored part. Is there a way to get an accurate COG from Inventor 2010 short of creating a RH assembly instead of deriving the part?
When I drag around vector points of paths they are not constrained to the pixel grid, when the option "Snap Vector Tools and Transform to Pixel Grid" is off. This is the behavior I expect.BUT: When I drag whole paths, they snap to the pixel grid, no matter what. I even have snapping completely disabled.
This is particularly annoying when eg. creating a path for a zipper. I first make a path for the inside of the jacket or whatever, then I make one notch for the zipper and copy it over and over again for all the notches. It's very troubling when these elements snap to the pixel grid, because it's very unprecise then.
I work with ANGTOS and ANGTOF quite a bit. I'm working with latitude and longitude conversions in MAP 3D for an application where accuracy is top priority. Most of the time ANGTOS (and RTOS, for that matter) return an accurate result for the number if decimal places requested, but then I run into a situation like this:
I'm having trouble getting my 3D lighting to look, well, believable in PS CS5 Ex. I've moved them around, tried different types of lights, and nothing seems to give me proper shadow contrast and glare and shine on my material. Here is a screen of a dining room setting I'm building (preliminary stage) by combining 2D and 3D elements.
The corner hutch on the right is the 3D piece and the two on the left are 2D. The walls, ceiling and floor are also all 3D as well.
I've created a design for a flowing graphic "wave" across an office window 20 ft wide. The only colour is Pantone #301 (blue), and there are gradients from 10% to 80%. The sign supplier wants a high res PDF to print on a flexible vinyl material. When I export to PDF, the colors change on my screen and go from blue to a grayish-blue tone.
1) If I don't do anything, but send the file, will the final output be close to what I see on my screen, or what the InDesign color palette specifies?
2) When I export to PDF, I see several options. I've tried several variations, and it does not bring the image closer to Pantone #301. What else can I do to assure I get the Pantone color?...
Here are the process and options:
- Pantone #301 is only color specified in InDesign. - EXPORT to PDF. - QUALITY - Press - COMPATIBILITY - options from PDF 1.4 to 1.7. Which is the best to use? - OUTPUT - COLOR - Conversion to Destination? or Not? Destination - many, many choices! Profile Inclusion? Not sure what that does. Ink Manager - It gives an option for "Spot to Process". Should I chose that?
When I set the opacity of a layer to, say, 50%, it will always go down one percent below, to 49% I'm not trying to be too picky here, but it's irritating when the opacity of the layer will always slide down one percent from what I set it as. So 68% becomes 67%, and so forth.
I have used Photoshop CS4 and and CS6 Beta and have never experienced this odd problem. When I set the exact opacity or fill, it will stay there. But with Photoshop CS5, it doesn't. I know it's not a huge problem, but like I said, it gets a bit annoying after a while, especially when I'm recording actions..
My neighbor brought a problem to me which I could not solve. He is running Photoshop CS3 10.0.1 on XPSP2. When he crops something at an angle, the resultant image is way off -- it is not what is within the crop mark. Any idea what is happening here?
I'm using the Adobe Photoshop CS3 trial on a Windows Vista machine - I've been using it for a couple days and I've noticed a number of times that the image in the preview window doesn't match what I get (usually after using image adjustment tools like Layer, Contrast/Brightness, or Curves - haven't noticed it so much with Filters, but haven't been using those as much yet either).
I have a bunch of wooden colour samples which need scanning for a website, but have found the scan result are usually off from the real thing. Understand that it's not going to be possible to get a 100% match, would would like to have something which is quite close to how it looks in real life.
there are text labels on the wood in white, after scanning the text appears as colour #a2b5c2 (blueish-grey), the wood itself is a dark brown but appears much lighter. have managed to find a picture of how it should look, compared to the one I scanned.
I like to set lines for cropping on the canvas. The vertical ruler is perfectly accurate. The horizontal ruler is off by alot. This is on cs4. The canvas size is adjusted to be A2 (420x594mm) The crop marks are with the ruler in inches to 16x20.
I'm working on a web page layout project on Adobe Photoshop CS and I was wondering: What effects should I apply to get a look for my top like those ones (I've got the shape)
I'm using Photoshop CS4 and am trying to cleanly select a flower. The flower has a white background that I'd like to remove; I've used the Select > Color Range. However, it still leaves rough edges around the flower's petals. This becomes apparent when I drop a black background behind the flower -- it has fuzzy edges that needed to have been selected and removed.
how to cleanly remove the background and not have the jagged edges?
Usually, I chamfer a simple box by creating it, converting it to an editable poly, selecting the edges, and adding a chamfer in the 'Modify' tab. Now, my problem:
The Lego fan community has developed digital Lego parts [URL]..., which use the correct dimensions, but have unreastic chamfering and geometries (eg, an octagon is used to depict a circle. LDview, a program for viewing LDraw files is able to export these parts into .3ds (and .stl) files - links below. However, I am unable to chamfer or modify these parts using my usual method.
I've been screwing around with beams in Revit for years and still have issues with the gaps at the connections. There is a shape handle and a structural component end. Either way, the beam decides where it wants to end. If I put two precast beams end to end, resting on an inverted tee girder that needs to have the 9" tee portion extend between the two joists, Revit doesn't like that and does its own thing. I move one, the other follows. I move both far enough away from eachother, then drag one end to where it needs to be, cool, then when I drag the other...boom...they snap together. Yes, I'm aware of the "start and end extension" in the properties window, this is incredibly time consuming and if one of the beams are switched around, I need to remember if this end was the start or end. In addition, the structural component end will go initially where it wants to, so there's no guarantee that if the parameters are correct, the beam/joist will be.
Can I remove all "rules" that beams have so I can place these correctly?
I made a typographic poster in Photoshop CS6 Extended (because I'm more familiar with it) and am wanting it to print in the highest quality possible. The size of the poster is 24'' x 36 '' at 300 dpi. I wanted to convert it into a vector so there would be no pixels. I've done this before with posters but none of them had any text and they turned out perfect. ou So my problem is when I did the image trace (high fidelity photo) it didn't turn out well.
Example of it before image trace:
After image trace:
The word "LIKE" doesn't look too bad but smaller words like "INSTRUMENTS" are the ones messing up. Is there any way to fix this? This poster took me a long time to make and I would hate to have to start over.
In the print Module. I tell it to Print ie: a 5x7 on a 8x10 piece of paper it prints out, again ie: 5.125 x 10.125. and the cell size I tell it should be as stated. but it isnt.
Just got a Epson 3880 printer and learning to use Lightroom 3 with it. I am trying to print a 8x10 image on 8.5x11 paper. I set the cell size to 8x10. While the print looks great it is not 8x10 (larger). Is there some interaction between the margin settings and the cell size that I need to understand?
Using a keyword search "contains all" brought up photos of pictures in which that keyword was not applied to them. I selected these photos and the keyword was not associated with the photos.
