Say you select all of the patterns on one half of the image.
Is it possible to mirror the selection, so that it selects the corresponding ares on the other half as well? Because it would cut down the workload by a fair bit.
I have a ball mask to design (like a masquerade mask). Since this image should be symmetrical, how do I design half of it and then mirror it in Gimp?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI decided to model an industrial iron caster wheel with polyurethane tread, and all went well. Tonight I added three ribs to one side of the caster wheel, which looks great, but I would rather not repeat the process on the other side because of all the fillets and such which would have to be repeated.
Is it possible to split the wheel down the middle and then mirror the side with the ribs? I saw that I can split the model with a plane, but I can't figure out how to remove the geometry on the left side of the plane.
In the image below I have an aerial photo of an Island. I need to make it so as water areas are black and land areas are white (not greyscale) almost like a silhouette. My first plan was to draw round the island with a black paint brush and then use the "bucket fill" with a suitable threshold to fill all of the areas up to the black outline with black, however this doesn't work as the bucket fill either breaks through the black line or when I reduce the threshold, doesn't color the water areas solidly.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI choose the Free Select Tool and painstakingly click around the border of something to remove the background. Typically it's a car and I do hundreds of tiny free select points tracing around the car's outline. I make my way around the entire car and double-click to connect the last point with the first one. Then all the selection points disappear, I have no selection around the car, and I'm unhappy.
Here's what happened. Before I started working I inadvertently had done a "Select All". The Free Select Tool was inadvertently left in "Add" mode. GIMP did what it was supposed to do, it added the car outline selection to the "Select All" selection - with the result equal to "Select All" - and there goes all my selection points around the car.
You can end up in the same bad place when "Select None" has been done and you inadvertently left the Free Select Tool in "subtract" mode.
The problem is that it's only loading the outline of my path as the selection. All the inner areas aren't included, and I want to chop them out as well
View 26 Replies View RelatedI have a gif image. It is a black and white outline of the state of New York. How do I select just the outside area to delete the background?
If I use the magic wand, It selects all the white. Then when I delete, it deletes the entire background and leaves only the black outline.
I want the black outline and the interior white area. How can I properly select this?
I have a polygon with my vertices and I want to select what's in front. When I highlight the front of the polygon, all vertices behind it is selected as well.
Is there a way to make the selection to select the first layer only?
I used the free select tool to free select an area of an image that is not a square (odd shape), how do I make that selection a perfect square if pasted to new image or new layer??? rectangular would be fine too...
View 14 Replies View RelatedI select the mirror command, but it will not select the lofted feature. All of the extruded features will select just fine.
View 5 Replies View RelatedLR3.4.I have a whole selection of photos that were taken at an event where there was 2 types of lighting, so the people in the back of the shots have a warm orangey glow and the people at the front have the day light. What would be ideal option to adjust the white balance on 2 separate areas, but I can't seem to find this in Lightroom? is it possible or will I need to export 2 versions and merge in photoshop etc?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIf you look closely in the attached picture, there is a spot of light blue on the player's helmet, that looks like a mistake (think it should look like the grass behind it)...though it actually may be part of his helmet.
Regardless, I'd like to take it out. My idea was to select the blue with the quick selection tool, then bring that selection out to the grass, select the grass with that size/shape of selection, copy/paste and then bring the grass selection into the blue part so it looks like grass in what was the blue part.
The problem is I don't seem to be able to move the selection without taking the blue with it (so it's not an empty selection and therefore can't select a piece of the grass.)
Is there some way I can leave select areas white and unaffected by transparency?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a really big gif with way more frames than it needs. How can I cut the frames in half or more?
edit: to clarify. Like removing every other frame.
when i open an image to work on onlyhalf of it is showing. It is as if i need to scroll down to see the whole page. I have the scroll bar visible, but it doenst move. When i try to move the image up the screen it moves out of its box, leaving a checkered background in its place.
I am using gimp 2.8 and run Ubuntu 13.04
Brand new GIMP user. I have been able to layer my pictures to create the effect I want. My problem is PRINTING. I can print but it is only printing half of the picture. Trying to print 4x6. If I flip the setup on my printer to landscape it only shows the bottom of the picture and it is not centered, the right size, and is on the top middle of my 4x6 photo paper. If I leave at portrait, it only hows the right side of the picture and, again, is the worng size and on the left side of the photo paper. Obviously I am missing something very basic?
View 1 Replies View RelatedUntitled-1 copy.jpg
When the modify dimensions box is open, the 'roundoff' menu gives me 1/16", 1/8" etc, even when DECIMAL is selected as the unit format.
This wasn't happening earlier, not sure what's going on. [in fact in a solved problem from earlier, a colleague found a drawing that had units set to millimeters, had its insertion scale set to inches! Different computer, so not related].
When I click on the new layer window, half of it opens off the screen (see screenshot). Attached File(s) Gimp Bug.png (59.06K) Number of downloads: 7
View 2 Replies View RelatedI want to mirror cut the models "selected" portion but it gives me result very far to it which is highlighted with red in the screenshot.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to edit a JPEG. It is one layer. My mode is Normal with 100% opacity, 100% fill. The layer is not locked.
I can use several tools including move, magic wand, paint bucket, crop. However, I cannot use the eraser, paintbrush, healing tool, clone stamp (which is the one I desperately need to use) or many others.
Alright, with out pictures, let me try to explain what I'm trying to do I'm trying to create a black and white (grayscale) top-down gradient of half a cone.
I select a circle, and using the cone gradient, start from the middle and go outward to the edges. Great so far, I have a top-down cone, but what I really need is only half of that, as if I was creating a top-down volcano with the top half sliced off and a flat rounded middle.
This is becoming a bump-map so the RGB value must match perfectly the highest point of the gradient with the sliced off part.
i just started using gimp on ubuntu 13.10 . almost half of the menu items are greyed out. most of the filters work or ar not greyed out, g'mic is greyed out and so is most of the stuff in the file menu (export, save, save as, etc.) . i already tried re-installing gimp from the software center with no prevail. this is how it was the first time i installed it on this new ubuntu 13.10 .
is there something that i can do to maybe refresh the entire gimp folder maybe? maybe delete it then re-install gimp. i really dont know if this would fix anything though.
this is really irritating. and no its not the "image RGB/indexed mode" problem.
im pretty sure i dont have anything installed (like some weird ubuntu restricted access fake file) that could interfere with the interface at all as this is a pretty fresh installation. the most i have installed that might even be close to interfering with the interface is "pipelight" which is for flash and silverlight, not gimp.
i even tried different color profiles and none of them work. i even downloaded the brand new color profiles from adobe. none of those work either.
the only way i got ALL of the menu options back, including g'mic, was opening gimp through raw therapee (basically adobe lightroom for ubuntu) which might be of some use in finding an answer to this?
i already have everything i need installed including the ubuntu restricted access extras and such.i just would like gimp to open normally with all the normal file menu options enabled like everyone elses and not be all greyed out ..
I've got a problem editing an image with a dotted background in it. By 'dotted', I mean an array of small evenly spaced black dots on a white background.
I've tried the fuzzy select tool which kind of works. It fills in the white space with the color I want but leaves the dots untouched. I want to get rid of the dots.
The image has a lot of rectangles containing text (these are not dotted) on this dotted background so using the select tool would be a real chore.
I know how to use the scissor tool to cut out patches but since they're difficult to place i like to define areas like with the wand tool. Did i by chance miss a important function?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI've used GIMP to great effect for quite a while now but I know I'm taking the long way around on a lot of things because I'm not very savvy on CG stuff, so I thought I'd ask here. I actually was registered with Gimptalk but it appears to be gone? Anyway...
I am currently making my own 'original artwork' by using usually open source/public domain photos and such, and using transparent layers to "draw" lines over them, making my own lineart. My problem is that I can't seen to find a "turn antialising off" checkbox in GIMP.
Even if I did, I do some postprocessing in Inkscape to turn the lineart into something more smooth, and then it re-antialiases (is that even a word) the picture, and when I try to use the paintbucket to fill in the lineart to get simple color pictures, I get lots of white specks and dots from the antialiased edges of the smooth lines.
What do I need to do to a picture to make sure I can fill spaces with a color right up to the lines, AFTER it has been antialiased, in my example? I can't use duotone or index to 2bit color or whatever, because that bites chunks out of the black lines and also destroys the smoothness of the Inkscape processing, but even if I haven't used that, it still reduces the lines spottily.
I've tried turning the tolerance way up and filling the areas with white first, hoping the white and the near-white specks will be close enough to "bleed" together so I have one color, and then paint with the desired color, but it still has specks.
Also, how to do lineart to achieve the same results I'm trying to achieve. I'm hand-tracing over the lines by eye, which, though I'm good at it and it doesn't take long, is more time consuming than it probably should be, and tedious.
Not sure if GIMP can actual do this.
I am looking to create text words that have a silver/bright mirror effect. The effect might look like silver liquid (water) effect. Or do you know what software it could be designed on.
What is the difference between rooms and areas? Why create an area schedule off 'areas' as opposed to using 'room' areas? Can you create a schedule off room areas?
View 2 Replies View RelatedRight after one makes a selection, say by using the Rectangle SelectTool, is presented with handles that allow altering the selection.
If one then selects another tool without deselecting is being deprivedof these handles while the selection remains active thus rendering himunable to alter the selection in that fashion.
Thus forming my question: is there a way to make these handles to(re-)appear on a non-freshly created selection?
I've got a few pictures taken at night of buildings and the street lights and lights on the buildings have come out extremely bright and 'bleed' out of their point of origin (not sure how else to explain it).
All I want to do is to darken these areas without affecting any of the other parts of the image. Is this possible at all?
What would be ideal would be if there was a tool, plug-in or method where I could select a certain colour range or brightness threshold that I could then lower however much I want without affecting the already dark areas.
I am in the process of adding lighting effects to one of my images. I'm trying to get a lightning effect, and decided to use Supernova off of the image's frame. This worked for full-frame layers, but on smaller layers, not so well.
What's happening is that I'm trying to get single objects in layers to have a lighting effect, but it's lighting up the transparent space around them, making a distinctly brighter area... well, it's better if I show you:
Base:
Adding the Effect:
The Unsatisfactory Result:
How to merge two or more specific layers together, that'd be fantastic.
I'm trying to rotate an image. Actually, I figured out how to rotate it. But I can't figure out how to fill in the "empty" triangular areas that represent the area between the edges of the original image and the horizontal and vertical edges of the canvas. I would like to fill these spaces so it is not obvious that the image was rotated. How can I do this?
What is the standard way to manipulate images in this manner?
I've attached a sample image that I rotated.