GIMP :: Darken Areas Without Affecting Any Other Parts Of Image
Dec 12, 2012
I've got a few pictures taken at night of buildings and the street lights and lights on the buildings have come out extremely bright and 'bleed' out of their point of origin (not sure how else to explain it).
All I want to do is to darken these areas without affecting any of the other parts of the image. Is this possible at all?
What would be ideal would be if there was a tool, plug-in or method where I could select a certain colour range or brightness threshold that I could then lower however much I want without affecting the already dark areas.
View 1 Replies
ADVERTISEMENT
Jan 29, 2013
In the image below I have an aerial photo of an Island. I need to make it so as water areas are black and land areas are white (not greyscale) almost like a silhouette. My first plan was to draw round the island with a black paint brush and then use the "bucket fill" with a suitable threshold to fill all of the areas up to the black outline with black, however this doesn't work as the bucket fill either breaks through the black line or when I reduce the threshold, doesn't color the water areas solidly.
View 3 Replies
View Related
Aug 19, 2013
I'm trying to rotate an image. Actually, I figured out how to rotate it. But I can't figure out how to fill in the "empty" triangular areas that represent the area between the edges of the original image and the horizontal and vertical edges of the canvas. I would like to fill these spaces so it is not obvious that the image was rotated. How can I do this?
What is the standard way to manipulate images in this manner?
I've attached a sample image that I rotated.
View 5 Replies
View Related
Aug 3, 2013
I have an assembly (A) that has a subassembly (B) that has a pattern of subassemblies (C's) that consist of many parts (D, E, F, G & H). The parts (DEFGH) are steel and have their own drawings. They do and should look like steel.
They are welded together as an assembly (C). This will be painted bright yellow. I wish to assign a yellow appearance to the subassembly, not affecting the parts. Last, when I open the upper assemblies (A or B), I expect C to have the painted color. I cannot make this work in Inventor 2013.
I can assign appearances to parts DEFGH. No error there. I can NOT assign appearances to assemblies (C). The only thing I see in the Appearance box is "Favourites" and "Inventor Material Library".
I can individuall select and highlight parts DEFGH inside the assembly C and assign an appearance to them. Sort of a work-around, but...
...this is not carried through to upper assemblies (A or B). If I just open them, all items are steel-colored, not yellow. If choose to edit one of the patterned C's inside B, only that instance is colored. None of the others in the pattern.
I must thus expand every instance in the pattern and highlight every part and set an appearance. But this is still not carried through to A. Or any of several other assemblies that also contain B.
Thus, if I want a persistent coloring, I either have to "paint" the individual parts, or I will have to scour up each and every assembly and "paint" every part inside them.
Is there really no way to assign an appearance to an assembly and have it carried through automatically to all assemblies that contain it? Like in every other solid modeler I have ever used?
View 3 Replies
View Related
Dec 21, 2011
The way I like to darken an image of a photo is that instead of using the burn tool, I create a new layer, set the opacity low (say 15) and then paint in the areas that I want to make darker. This gives me increased flexibility when I want to go back and fix what I did because I'm not altering the original layer.
Here's my problem though. One thing I like to do is to blur that layer using a gaussian blur to soften the edges of the area I am darkening. That works nicely but inevitably after applying the gaussian blur I want to come back and change something. That's a mess once the layer has already been blurred. So the work-around I've found is to save my darken layer and hide it from view (using the eye beside the layer) and then duplicate the layer and apply the gaussian blur. Then when I need to modify the area that I am darkening, I delete the visible blurred layer, change the invisible non-blurred version, then reduplicate and reblur. And that works.
What I think I want is some sort of "blurring" layer. Is there anything like that out there?
Lots of times I want to blur a mask a little and that gets to be a real pain. The steps I use to save my non-blurred version is to copy the mask to selection, then selection to path then change the path name to be Mask: (layer name). And then when I need to edit the non-blurred version, I delete the mask, change my path to a selection, then add mask from selection. then make my change, then reblur. Again it works but its difficult.
View 3 Replies
View Related
Oct 16, 2012
I'm planning to start using Gimp for editing my photos. However, I've been looking through the functions, and I've also read the online manual. But there are two things I can't find.
1. How can I darken the highlights in a photo?
2. Is it possible to enhance the contrast in more detail than on a general level, e.g. midtone contrast only?
View 3 Replies
View Related
Feb 13, 2013
My dodge / burn tool lightens great.
Is there a button to get it to darken instead?
View 3 Replies
View Related
May 17, 2013
I darken the edges of an ebook cover I'm working on. Can I do that in paint.net.
View 2 Replies
View Related
Aug 10, 2013
when I make an image transparent the brighter parts of the image are also made transparent which I obviously don't want.
I'm sure this probably involves fuzzy select maybe but I've spent ages trying to sort this out but can't make any sense at all of the tutorials.
View 2 Replies
View Related
Oct 10, 2012
I created a layer by duplicating an existing layer and found that I couldn't paint on the transparent parts of the new layer, regardless of the state of the layer's Lock alpha channel button. After much gnashing of teeth I finally got it to work by exiting Gimp and starting it again. Once I had done that the Lock alpha channel button had the expected effect.
My question: Is this a known bug, or am I doing something accidentally to put it in a mode where it ignores the state of the Lock alpha channel button?
View 1 Replies
View Related
Apr 26, 2013
When I am in the develop mode, and I want to darken, or lighten the background, or the fore ground, or anything in the picture. Do I use the Radial Filter, or the adjustment Brush? How to use both of these tools?
View 6 Replies
View Related
Mar 1, 2013
I have to show paint coverage/masking areas on certain parts, and to obtain the look I am after, I thought about using the split command and changing the face colors as necessary to show this. I have never used this command before, and was wondering what the pro's and con's are to using it, and also if this is even the best way to go about this?
View 6 Replies
View Related
Nov 18, 2011
An image of a tree with fine branches in winter against a sky I want to darken. My goal is to create a duplicate layer of the image to darken but where the tree is transparent so I can put the darkened layer on top of the orignal image with an undarkened tree. Before my computer crashed, I used a plugin for this called, I thought, Alpha Mask. In this example, by selecting a spot on the tree I could make either everything the color of the tree or everything not disappear into transparency. But I can't seem to find the plugin now. I did look at the index of plugins and found some listings under Alpha, but none are described as the tool I need here (best I can tell).
View 4 Replies
View Related
Feb 28, 2012
I've got a problem editing an image with a dotted background in it. By 'dotted', I mean an array of small evenly spaced black dots on a white background.
I've tried the fuzzy select tool which kind of works. It fills in the white space with the color I want but leaves the dots untouched. I want to get rid of the dots.
The image has a lot of rectangles containing text (these are not dotted) on this dotted background so using the select tool would be a real chore.
View 8 Replies
View Related
Jul 29, 2012
I know how to use the scissor tool to cut out patches but since they're difficult to place i like to define areas like with the wand tool. Did i by chance miss a important function?
View 6 Replies
View Related
Oct 26, 2010
I've used GIMP to great effect for quite a while now but I know I'm taking the long way around on a lot of things because I'm not very savvy on CG stuff, so I thought I'd ask here. I actually was registered with Gimptalk but it appears to be gone? Anyway...
I am currently making my own 'original artwork' by using usually open source/public domain photos and such, and using transparent layers to "draw" lines over them, making my own lineart. My problem is that I can't seen to find a "turn antialising off" checkbox in GIMP.
Even if I did, I do some postprocessing in Inkscape to turn the lineart into something more smooth, and then it re-antialiases (is that even a word) the picture, and when I try to use the paintbucket to fill in the lineart to get simple color pictures, I get lots of white specks and dots from the antialiased edges of the smooth lines.
What do I need to do to a picture to make sure I can fill spaces with a color right up to the lines, AFTER it has been antialiased, in my example? I can't use duotone or index to 2bit color or whatever, because that bites chunks out of the black lines and also destroys the smoothness of the Inkscape processing, but even if I haven't used that, it still reduces the lines spottily.
I've tried turning the tolerance way up and filling the areas with white first, hoping the white and the near-white specks will be close enough to "bleed" together so I have one color, and then paint with the desired color, but it still has specks.
Also, how to do lineart to achieve the same results I'm trying to achieve. I'm hand-tracing over the lines by eye, which, though I'm good at it and it doesn't take long, is more time consuming than it probably should be, and tedious.
View 6 Replies
View Related
Sep 22, 2011
What is the difference between rooms and areas? Why create an area schedule off 'areas' as opposed to using 'room' areas? Can you create a schedule off room areas?
View 2 Replies
View Related
Jan 12, 2012
Say you select all of the patterns on one half of the image.
Is it possible to mirror the selection, so that it selects the corresponding ares on the other half as well? Because it would cut down the workload by a fair bit.
View 4 Replies
View Related
May 11, 2012
I am in the process of adding lighting effects to one of my images. I'm trying to get a lightning effect, and decided to use Supernova off of the image's frame. This worked for full-frame layers, but on smaller layers, not so well.
What's happening is that I'm trying to get single objects in layers to have a lighting effect, but it's lighting up the transparent space around them, making a distinctly brighter area... well, it's better if I show you:
Base:
Adding the Effect:
The Unsatisfactory Result:
How to merge two or more specific layers together, that'd be fantastic.
View 2 Replies
View Related
Jun 6, 2009
I'll make the important parts bold.
View 3 Replies
View Related
Aug 15, 2011
I have a drawing (autocad 2011) ,which i have to measure the areas of the many rooms and i arrange these areas in a table! is there any fast way to do so? avoiding the boaring typical area measurements room by room?
View 9 Replies
View Related
Feb 21, 2007
trying to move my image around freely but the image keeps locking in certain areas, like its snapping or something,
View 2 Replies
View Related
Apr 19, 2012
I downloaded an image of a web template to look at the colours more closely before possibly purchasing it and when I opened the image in CS4 it had a bunch of triangular blocked out areas - kind of like a mask of some sort I think. I then tried creating a new document and opening an existing, unrelated PSD file and now they have the same triangular blocked out areas.
View 4 Replies
View Related
Jul 24, 2013
Here are the instructions in the manual:
To cut out an image area
Edit workspace
1 On the Layers palette, click the layer that contains the image area that you want to cut out.
2 Choose Image * Object Extractor.
The Object Extractor dialog box appears, with the Brush tool activated by default.
3 Adjust the brush size by moving the Brush size slider.
4 In the preview area, draw a line along the edges of the image area that you want to cut out.
Ensure that the selection outline slightly overlaps the surrounding background and completely surrounds the area in a closed ring.
5 Choose the Fill tool , and click inside the area you want to cut out.
An overlay covers the image area that you clicked.
Note: If the selection outline is not closed, the fill covers the entire image. If this is the case, click the Eraser tool to clear the fill, and then complete the selection outline with the Brush tool.
6 Click Process to preview the result.
If you are not happy with the result, click Edit Mask to return to the previous view and touch up the cutout.
- - -
I get down to No. 6 but I'll be darned if I know where/how to "Click process to preview the result."
View 4 Replies
View Related
Apr 26, 2013
I have a problem with a drawing, containing aerial images.
If I try to plot it as PDF, using "Adobe PDF" or "PDF-Creator" as printer, I see green areas in my PDF. Here the result:
If I use the AutoCAD Printer "DWG to PDF.pc3", there is no problem. Here the result:
For the creating of PDF files I can use the AutoCAD printer, that is no problem, but I have the same Problem if i try to plot a drawing with aerial images on a Plotter (HP 1050C) or any other printer in our office.
View 6 Replies
View Related
May 19, 2008
I have a question about selecting sections of an image to copy or edit, and the best/easiest way to do it. I've been using the Pen to draw a line around the edge of the section(s) I want to edit, than tidy up the lines, convert it to a selection, and go from there. But this can often take a very long time.
if there was a better, faster and/or easier way to do this, or if using the Pen tool is probably the best way?
I'll use
this image
as an example (for lack of a better example image). Perhaps I want to take the dark blue area of the skirt, chest and feet and edit them to a different color (maybe I want to turn them red, for instance). Obviously the image has shading so not all of the colors are exactly the same, so the Magic Wand wouldn't help much.
To edit these sections, would using the Pen tool to drag a line around the edges and convert it to a selection be the best way, or is there another better way to do this?
It may be a stupid question, but I just thought I'd ask just in case there was a simpler way for me to go about editing my images.
And if it makes any difference, I have Photoshop CS2.
View 4 Replies
View Related
Apr 28, 2011
If there is a tool or plug in, or effective technique for copying the translucent areas of an image?
This is an original image [URL]......
[URL].......
This is the image I cut out, then added blurs by using color selection and then brushes, and the blur and motion blur tool, but its not an exact copy of the translucent areas.
View 1 Replies
View Related
Feb 19, 2013
My primary graphics task is working with application screencaps... mainly masking out private customer information, and sometimes overlaying 'dummy' data in its place. With a drawing program, the process goes like this:Draw a box somewhere near the field I'm masking.Use the color-matching tool to ensure that the box matches the field.Resize and reposition the box to exactly cover the field.(Optional) Repeat this process with a text box to present the 'dummy' data on top. However, my workplace requires us to use Paint, which doesn't support drawing actions like this (moving and resizing objects). Is there some other way to accomplish this task with the tools Paint does have?
View 8 Replies
View Related
Dec 29, 2013
Each are can be individually selected in AI. I can change colors, strokes add images pretty much anything except what i can do in ps. In ps i can have the background as a specific layer. Then select the areas of the jersey then invert and delete the remaining portion of the background from the background layer. I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO DO IT IN AI cs6. I have to do this in AI because there are certain images and backgrounds i need to image trace to blow up to size of jersey. I make it work by importing after editing as much as possible in PS.
View 13 Replies
View Related
Feb 10, 2013
I need to cut out an image from a transparent background. Is there a way to do that with Photoshop Elements 10?
In other words, I have an image (say a face) that is on a rectangular background that is transparent. I need to cut away all the transparent area so there is NO background, just the face, and an irregular shaped image. Is that possible with Photoshop?
This is for inserting the image in another program (Sketch Up) which does not always allow transparency.
View 4 Replies
View Related
May 9, 2012
I have a logo file, saved as PNG, that is black on transparent. Very simple file, just stylized black lettering on a transparent background. In Illustrator CS5, I can place that file, do a "Live Trace" in "Lettering" mode, and Illustrator will correctly ignore the transparent areas when I expand the trace. After expanding, I'm left with scalable paths and an easy way to change the fill color to have the logo work with my background.
Fast forward to Illustrator CS6. I try to do the same thing but a) there is no "lettering" preset for Image Trace and b) there is no setting I have yet found to cause Illustrator to ignore the transparent areas when I expand. If I then fill, everything inside the bounds of the placed image (the square containing the logo) is filled with that color. The only way I've found to get similar results is to go through the layers panel after the Expand and deselect each piece of the image that should not be filled. I have a hard time believing this is the desired approach.
View 18 Replies
View Related