I have to photograph a huge wall with retangle objects mounted on it. The sizes and shapes of the objects vary. I need to create a very large image.
I will need to use photomerge. Am I better off shooting it in sections from one center perspective or shooting straight into each section and using photomerge.
I have been asked to produce a large text based image to be printed on a gym floor with a size of approx. 2m squared. I am using a Collegiate style font and then rasterising the text to allow different coloured parts and blending the letters in to each other. I have produced the image in small scale, but now need to redo the image suitable for printing at such a large size. I know I will have to start again from scratch but am concerned that it may be pixelated at such a large size.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm having a problem with Fcheck that no one seems to be able to solve - every time I import a large image it resizes it automatically to a fraction of its size. Notice in the image attached below that my image is 10000 x 10000 pixels but it imports and resizes to 25% of this original size.
According to the Autodesk Maya Online Help there is a command that will "Display images in full resolution preventing automatic rescaling of large images." ...that command is -F
My question to you is how and where do I enter that command? I'm using maya 2011 on Mac
Basically I just need to create a large scale depth map image...
I want to create a panoramic photo out of three shots , how do i merge them?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'd like to stitch together a panorama out of raw images in Photoshop CS5. The problem is, that I don't want the result to be a 8-bit jpeg. I want to have a raw image that keeps all the information the original raw images had so that I can modify contrast, white balance etc. later on.I can't figure out, how to use the Photomerge tool on raw images and have a 16-bit result. It seems to me like Photoshop automatically compresses the result into 8-bit and erases valuable information irreversibly.
I use Photoshop CS5 Extended (from the CS5 Production Premium) on a Windows 7 64-bit Desktop.
I've been trying to use photomerge to create a panoramic. However, it keeps trying to create a vertical panoramic out of horizontally oriented images and then reports an error about being "unable to align" the images. I'm using CS6 extended 64 bit with Windows 7. I've tried auto, reposition, perspective, and the other settings separately all with no luck.
View 10 Replies View Relatedhow to scan an old 1888, 10x12 photo in two halves (left and right), and used the Elements Photomerge to combine the two shots. It worked quite well - slightly askew at the top edge, but the rest of the image appears to be well-stitched - to the naked eye, at least.
After sharpening the image, I went to Guided Edit and began using the brush to "heal" a few of the old marks on the image at full size - that worked well!. Until I moved my brush into the area that had been the left side, that is.. The brush no longer worked. Then I noted that the about 1/3 of the left side was not sharpened like the right side was, either! To test it further, I changed it to a black & white photo. Only that larger right section changed to black & white, and the left part of the image stayed it's old sepia color. I saved the images, closed and re-opened Elements - but had the same results. The left side just can't be edited.
Isn't there a way to edit the entire merged image?
I've saved the image as a high-quality JPEG, and also as Adobe Elements format - but they still won't fully edit. The two are large files - I was thinking that I'd need to save it at high-quality in order to end up with a nice retouched & sharpened 8x10, suitable for framing.
Also, I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium, 64 bit on one laptop, and Windows 7 Professional, 64 bit on another..(I'm trying to get by with the Elements version I have, due to finances.)
When I try to crop a photomerge image all the layer boxes go blank, the box that should have the cropped image has a teeny paint brush overlaying a teeny canvas, no image.
View 1 Replies View RelatedAll of a sudden the information to the image started appearing on top left of image. It is disturbing when I'm trying to edit image. How do I get rid of this image information on that part of the screen?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have created a graphics file around 150 MB. When I try to open it in Photoshop, it gives an error message after trying to load...
"cannot open file because a disc error occured."
Some more info: I'm running on an iBook 2001 model (G3 processor, 600 Mhz, 384 MB RAM), the file is a psd (Photoshop) file.
I currently have around 2.85 GB left on my HD and I tried increasing the memory usage in prefs to around 300MB. I even tried using my HD as secondary scratch disc and purged cache in file browser. I figured this might free up some room. I also figure this might be a problem of space, so I tried backing up some files onto CD.
I want to create a flat image of the tattoo around my wrist. It seems as soon as i place a photo in Photoshop I cant do anything like that with it. I tried using different layers to place the different photos in, but when I crop one, it crops the entire image.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm wondering how to create huge arrays in the best way. I have a circle and want it thousands of columns and tens of thousands of rows. Anytime I start to make this AutoCAD gets extremely slow and I was told that turning some into blocks would be best.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a Mac OS X Lion 10.7.4 and Photoshop CS5.1 and have just hooked up my Epson RX580. On the window platform in another software program the multiple pages and/or poster options appear in the print window. But not in Photoshop on my mac. I have made sure to download the newest drivers etc.
View 7 Replies View RelatedHow will I split the image into multiple pages of letter size paper easily. Then I will put it on either PDF or MS Word for print.Then I merge it once it is printed.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have 72dpi image at 18in. I need to go to print. Should I resize to 300dpi at around 4in or just scale down the image? It will go on a business card so I really have enough pixels because it's not very big, just not sure best resize method.
View 9 Replies View RelatedIf I have 4 or 5 images I need to merge with each other (not on top of each other, but alongside each other) to form one larger image..how do I do it?
I want to desaturate the images and then merge them and add a colour wash over the top of them.
I want to create a large sheet of metal, like 1600x1600.
But I don't want it to look too uniform, just too plain. And I want it to look more realistic than a simple grayscale gradient.
This is what I got from fooling around for a bit:
How do i assemble an extremely large format image to be used in a convention display?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to make an image 879X593 px into a banner about 950 x 130 px. Is this possible to do this in Photoshop without causing the image to stretch or distort the items inside it? Are there other options even in Fireworks?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am working on a project that is a large print of about 30 inches wide and 20 inches in height.
(I just wrote a big post but for some reason when I tried posting it the forum logged me off and it didnt post so I wont get too detailed here.)
Basically I need to print the image for example using 9 piece of normal paper and stick it together with transperant tape to make a large image.
Is there a way to do this without the need to cut the borders on each page, I really would like to print borderless pages and not cut them.
I am looking to create a collage made from 100 photos (all taken high res) to be printed large, approx 120cm x 50cm. To be able to print this size I need to keep the high resolution and hence looking for a large file output.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to create a localized existing surface from a very large topo. I promoted the existing surface shortcut into my drawing, then created a cropped surface to be put in a new drawing. After creating the cropped surface the new file shows that a surface has been created, however, the surface contains no data. I am using c3d 2012.
View 1 Replies View Relatedhow to get 2013 C3D to create a large watershed with a big elevation drop? Arcview can do it, but I bought the new version of AutoCad, which meant a new computer, instead of the Arcview extension and I don't see it happening.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI have a lot of engineering data, dimensions, etc, to enter into an existing IDCS6 Table. I need whole numbers to display full size, but fractions to be small size. I know I can use Open Type and select the Fractions option for each individual fraction, but that would take forever.
How do I create a style (or whatever) that will allow me to just type in the numbers and have them automatically apply small formatting to the fraction portion of the number whenever it sees a "/"?
Along a similar line, I was trying to copy table data from a PDF document from Acrobat X Pro and paste that into an IDCS6 table, so each cell is populated by the appropriate cell data from the PDF file, but didn't have any success. That would really save me a lot of time, because I have many complete tables in PDF format. The data is not protected in the PDF, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to bring it over to IDCS6.
On a Mac, OSX 10.8.5.
Whenever I drag an image off the web into Photoshop it seems like some colors gets pixels, large black areas inside the image. This only occurs in 8-bit mode, when I turn the image to 32-bit it show all colors correctly. But in 32-bit mode I cannot save to web. If I finish the image in 32-bit and then downgrade it to 8-bit, the black parts return.
What I see in 8-bit mode:
What it should look like, and does in 32-bit mode:
If you need any technical specs apart from knowing that I use Photoshop CS5,
I am wondering about the text in my images. I am compiling images that end up 1000px across and will use them at 300dpi.
Is it better to put large text into the image whilst it's still large (2-3000px) and then resize down to 1000px or is it better to not subject the text to a resize by resizing the image first (down to the 1000px) and then pop the smaller text straight into the finished size image.
Which was will give sharper text (assuming a 2 point sharpen if resizing the text in a large image). I'll attach a sample image to show the kind of thing....
I learned to move over to PNG this week after reading that the JPG I had been using as 'standard' loses quality, looks like I was the last to find out.......
I am using Lightroom 4.4 and an Epson 3880 with printer driver ver. 6.6. I want to print a 16 x 20 image on 17 x 22 paper. I select a paper size of 17 x 22, and in the Lightroom print module, I set the margins to zero, and the cell size to height=16 and width=20. I turn on the ruler guide, and it shows that I will get a 16x20 image on the paper. However, when I print it, the image is about 3/8" larger than that in both dimensions.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI'm making a multiple monitor panorama and need to reverse the halves of the large image - 3840x1200 since my primary monitor is on the right.
So I can precisely select the parts I want since Select Rectangle has a precise mode in the tool options.But move has no precise mode.
Don't we need a precise mode in the Move tool too?
Not sure where to pass this along to the Gimpers, but it's the only thing I've found missing.
Is there any work around that will force AutoCad to spool when trying to print a large .tiff image? I am trying to print an image whose file size is 150mb to a plotter.
It doesn't spool at all, it instantly prints (leaving out the image). The image is on a layer set to print etc.
I have an image sized 20" x 24". I just have a standard 8.5" x 11" printer. Can I print the image in sections? If so, how?I did this with a PDF document once.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have created a point cloud and surface from LiDAR data. The point cloud data was relatively large from what I am familiar with (approximately 30 GB all told), and ESRI ASC surface file (approximately 8 GB) was generated after a laborious wait. However, when I attempt to add the ASC file as a raster to view the surface, MAP 3D crashes and loses connection with my PC (i.e. window freezes, and I have to force MAP 3D to shutdown). My computer is fairly updated with quad core processor, 3 GB RAM, etc. Is this not enough power to process such a large image file, or have I error ?
View 2 Replies View Related