I want the edges to not be so defined.. i know how to do with when i drop an image out, but not on a layer that is already how i want it... any help? Its the people layer on this picture....
View 9 Repliesmaking a Photoshop plugin entitled "Layer History". What it does is provide History for each unique Layer (check out the pic i attached to this message). Right now i am not quite sure of its use to anyone out there and so i just wanted to ask all of you gurus what you think. I am just playing around in learning how to do plugins so dont think i am trying to go commercial or anything...please feel free to be as honest as possible! =)
Right now, i am able to capture pretty much anything about how a layer was created including brush strokes (as you can see in the snap). From there the user can move back in time by jumping to one of the previous states and modifying its content (while still maintaining later states) and thus creating a potential uniquely different compounded result. For example,i am able to say, select a brush stroke state (from the Layer History states panel --- the bottom panel of the 3 visible -- btw, the top-right two icons
toggle on/off whether the two other stacked panels which show "Snapshots" and "Folder Sets" appear as well so dont think they are on all the time...i left them on so you could see them ), and then select a different Brush type, Mode type, opacity which would automatically update the stroke inside the document to the new modifications, but also keeping the other states (possibly other brush strokes, etc) that follow it.
Right now it stores information about when the entry was made and allows for internal commenting, creating folder sets (you can select a group of states and organize them under folders for quicker access), color states based on type and by sets, reshuffle states, and modify them. Because the Layer history information can get huge (e.g. Brush strokes) i added in a compression technique while it stores Layer History information inside the PSD file (while saving) which seems to work quite nicely. Currently I also have a number of discard management options that can allow the user to select the # of states (or types of states) that can be in the window before they are discarded (or converted into a Snapshot). Notice the icon near the bottom of the pic on the left of the last "Brush Stroke" entry (its a gray arrow): Because subsequent entries may be the same e.g. multiple Brush strokes, it is able to know when more than 1 entry is of the same type and thus this icon appears to the left of the first of its type. When the
user clicks the arrow it collapses (hides) all states of that type (leaves the 1st entry though) thus clearing out space for the user inside this window. If the user clicks the collapse arrow again (now shown as an expand arrow) it re-expands the content revealing all the items of that type.
Is this program of any use to anyone? I am thinking of trashing it and moving on to another plugin...It was fun for my 1st plugin nontheless, but boy did they have a lot of bugs in the sdk. Though i actually made it compatible for photoshop 5.0,6.0, and 7.0.
When i think back about this Layer History plugin i guess no one would really find a use for it since no one has ever complained about needing one before and Actions, and History provide part of the solution.
when a want to change my text with filter a message apear ... it says this layer must be rasterized before proceeding .
what i have to do for my text change correctly?????
I am new to Photoshop CS4 and presently working on a CD label project where I wish to apply a color. I use a "template" wher I have the delimitations of the CD label, but when I add a new fill layer, of course it won't detect the delimitations and will fill the entire page...
Where can I find the procedure so I can get the color gradient or solid color to be only where I want it to be (in this case, within the circular limits of the CD label).
I'm trying to do the usual paste-a-head-on-a-monkey type of task. When I use a layer mask to paint away the non-head parts (or to bring the background image to the front) the image leaves a ghost where I painted. It acts as though the opacity is incorrect, but I've checked everything and can't figure out what the problem is.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI work with virtual shoe samples made in Photoshop. I draw shoes in PS and make thousands of combinations of materials in colors, which mean thousands of layers as well.
I have then various sets of layers, each one a different combination, and many times I want to go back to a combination I used before; that is, make every layer of it visible again, something that takes lots of time when you have thousands of layers.
Every file is 300 MB, so I have no chance to save it again with that combination I need.
Basically, I need to find a way to save which layers are visible and invisible!
I've got 967 images to add an upper layer, something like a watermark, and the only way I know to do it, is manually inserting the "watermark layer" Do you guys know how to do this work totally automatized? any external program? or some ideia do make my life easier?
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow an inner shadow looked on an object on a layer that I could "MERGE" that layer style into that object? In effect, removing the layer style from the LAYERS PALETTE, but not after having incorporated it into the image?
View 1 Replies View Relatedi want to dodge, burn or sharpen a New Layer. So i start by creating a duplicate layer (ctrl-J) and then creat a New Layer (box next to trash can in bottom of layers palette). (now i have 3 layers: background, dup and New Layer.) when i select the New Layer and then use the dodge tool, nothing happens.
but if i select the dup (middle layer) and dodge, it works. but i don't want to alter the pixels of the duplicate (middle) layer. how do i get the tools to work on the New Layer? i ultimately want to have a dodge layer, a burn layer and a sharpen layer. i don't want to keep making copies of the background because each copied layer adds 43 megs.
I have a picture of a cabin on a lake, I want to use this as the flash intro for a website. I would like a mist to cover the picture and then float away, and the water in the lake to "shimmer" or make it look as if it is "moving"...kind of like you were looking at a video clip, not a static picture.
Is this something I would do in any of the creative suite programs? or studio 8 programs? or is it something completely different.
I want to put a 4"x8' image into a 4"x6" space without too much distortion.
View 5 Replies View RelatedAt work, whenever I "save as" a jpg or tif or whatever, it just renames the extension. eg. 'Work.psd' -> 'Work.jpg'. But when I work from home, whenever I "save as" it appends "copy" to the end, which I really hate. eg. 'Work.psd' -> 'Work copy.jpg'. I know this is a trivial matter, but it puts an annoying kink in my workflow having to remove "copy" from the file name during my extremly frequent saves. I've tried to google this, but I'm at wit's end trying to find where the preference is hidden.
View 9 Replies View Relatedwhen I try to open an existing file or create a new one -- the application will shut down unexpectedly and without warning.But I also experience application errors: 'Instruction at "0x1a3c4b6b" referenced at memory "0x00000028" Memory could not be read.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm having a heckuva hard time figuring this one out.
At the bottom of my canvas, I have a half-circle, with the curve facing up and the flat edge at the bottom border of my canvas.
At the top of my canvas, I have some text that is actually a graphic instead of text.
I'm trying to make the picture of the text curve to the same arc as the half-circle at the bottom of the canvas.
I'm created a photo of an alien boy being beamed down to someone's house in a cone of bright white light from a flying saucer, and I tried to use the "layer style" to create the glowing light effect in this cone of bright light - but somehow I'm not getting the "glow" effect that I got before. I'm stumped as to what I'm doing wrong/not doing right to produce the glow effect. In other words, the outer/inner glow effect no longer works. Can anyone please help me?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've got a couple of actions that do various things and then as a last step do a "save as" (without a dialog). They work just fine on MOST images but on just a couple of images when they get to the "save as" step I get a dialog and the "as a copy" box is checked. It happens on the same images every time so it must be something about those particular images but I can't figure out what it is.
View 5 Replies View Relatedhow to make an Oval dish that's 15" x 12" x 5" inches
View 9 Replies View RelatedWhat is the correct way to print a 16" x 20" print on 17" x 22" paper using LR5.
In LR4, using 17" x 22" paper, I used to set the cell size to 16" x 20" and print. Doing the same thing in LR5 gives me a slightly larger print.
I have given a disc of photos to a client that she can't access without launching Photoshop on her Mac. They were scanned by me on an Epson as jpgs, then run through Photoshop (CS1) for touch-up and resaved as jpgs by me. Now I look under "get info" and see that they are all saved as "Photoshop Jpgs". this can be a big problem, as I intend to make a lot of discs for clients in the future. I don't want to have to tell them to use "Open with" every time they want to view a photo.
View 1 Replies View Related(using his Mac)... It ended up our logo and I need have to make some changes desperately (to adjust it for printing on shirts/ change the image for embroidery logo, etc.). Despite all my efforts to find out how it was created.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWell this is the error I am getting when I try and install Adobe Photoshop CS 2 so I am at a loss as I cant find any help.
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhat I mean by "Holy Grail" is that intense outer glow of crosses in religious illustrations but that looks natural in photographs. I am looking for technique, filter or third party plug in.
I have product photos to create this type of outer glow but I also want it to look natural.
I am looking for a fast, easy and adjustable way to do this -- if at all possible.
I was wondering if in Photoshop i can add a "Bullet-time effect" which was in Matrix.For example a scene which was shown in slow motion where an Agent was firing at Neo and then Neo dodged bullets and we could actually see effects produced by bullets.Maybe i need to combine some filters/layers.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI'm capturing television frames using a TV capture card, but the resulting images do not have the correct brightness/contrast and color values.
Instead of manually altering every image using trial and error, I'd like to take a "correct" source frame that I know is correctly balanced (such as a test pattern), and use it to correct my other captured images.
I've tried saving the source frame's levels and curves and then loading them into the captured frames, but this doesn't produce quite the effect I'm looking for.
I am attempting to execute a set of actions containing two "Save" commands. The first works fine while the second does not. (The destination folder is ignored and the file is saved in the same folder as the first Save.) The only difference I can see is that the second "Save" is modal and the other is not. The fact that the destination folder is contained in the action makes me think this ought to work and I'm missing something obvious.
I have a JPG of the action set but I can't see how to attach it....
I installed Adobe Design Premium Suite CS4 4 days ago in HP Compaq dc5100 SFF. I have C drive over 9GB of free space and I am running with 2GB of RAM and 2.80 GHz speed. I encounter an error message popping out in couple of minutes, when I open Photoshop each time as following The instruction at "0x1c904b6b" referenced memory "0x00000028."Â The memory could not be "read." Click OK to terminate the program The following steps I did to resolve the problem, but nothing resolved the problem1) I have increased the RAM to 2GB2) In Photoshop preferences setting, I originally had the default 50% ram given to adobe.. and then tried 75%.3) I uninstalled and reinstalled Adobe Design Premium Suite CS4 The error message is now recurring so that it is impossible for me to work. Any ideas to resolve this memory problem?
View 4 Replies View RelatedIs there any way to "fix" blown out white areas in a photograph? For example--portions of a wedding dress.
View 3 Replies View Relatedhey anyone know how to make the effect similar to when your have a dusty room and light enters through the window and you can see the rays?
View 1 Replies View Relatedwhen using brushes as "stamps" how do you use normal colors rather than textures?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI just want a brush for PSCS that I can run across an image to look like someone, or something, was biting the edge.
It doesn't have to be fancy or super "real" looking. Just better looking then using a round eraser and chopping it up. Or a "leaf" brush or some other thing.
I also have another question. It's probably quick to answer so I'll just ask it here too. When layering photos over the top of each other; what is the best way to do gradient transparencies around one image, so the image below shows through and looks nice?
I try using just the eraser with a dropped down opacity, but there is no smoothness to the transparency. I tried erasing with a feathered selection, but that was erasing the main part of the "top" image along with the edges.
Whatever technique it is, it would have to be useable on a round image, or square, or utterly hacked up shape. Simply so it has a smooth transparency to the image below.
I can do this easy with a transparent gradient, IF the bottom was just a solid color.
how to get ANY shinniness to the paint when it is flat, i get a primered effect.
I already did a good number of things to this truck but can any 1 give me a few pointers?