Photoshop :: Avoid CS3 Installation On Windows Partition
Jun 23, 2007
is it possible to avoid the installation of photoshop CS3 on the windows partition?
I have 2 partition on my hard-drive CWindows) and DData).
I wanna install CS3 completely on D but it doesn't seem to be possible, the installation forces one to install at least about 500MB on C: Why is that and can I avoid it???
Windows Explorer (not Internet Explorer!) show that VideoStudio was installed into a sub directory named "Documents," yet that sub directory is empty except for the VS sub-folders.
I want to know whether or not I can delete that particular folder named "Documents" (which includes those VS sub-folders) SAFELY.
All my VideoStudio files are in my own custom-named folder, and seem to be working quite well from there.
NOTE: I tried to provided a jpg graphic showing my situation, but this forum limits the upload file size to a ridiculous 256KB's, which is the size of a postage stamp!
I'm currently building a workstation specifically for certain image processing tasks. I plan to run Linux most of the time but am considering dual boot with Windows, specifically to run Photoshop.
It will have four 15k 73GB SAS drives configured as two RAID0 volumes for scratch disks. I'm laying out the partitions now, and I was wondering if Photoshop can use raw partitions as scratch space, or do they always have to be Windows-formatted partitions. What I'm thinking about is recycling my Linux swap partitions from the RAID0s as scratch partitions when using Photoshop.
I recently had to reinstall OS X 10.7.4 because 10.8 will not run on my Mac. After the reinstall, Photoshop cannot find any licenses and does not offer me any way to re-enter my registration key.How can I get it to recognize the key or remove it entirely for a reinstall?
I'm using Photoshop 6, ancient.One job I use it for is to edit .png files that were created in X-Plane's (flight simulator) "Plane Maker" tool. When I open the .png file in Photoshop, the colors invariably look faded when compared with the original. If I edit the file and save it, I end up with colors that are not anything like the original. Â Below are examples. Notice the first, a screen grab from Plane Maker, has deeper colors than the second, a screen grab from Photoshop.Are there any settings that can be made in Photoshop to avoid this color shift? If not, I suppose I will just have to fiddle with the contrast and brightness settings.
I am designing a site that uses a lot of irregular shapes, but cant seem to get angled lines to show up smooth. They are coming out very jagged. Any idea how to smooth the lines out? Tips for Photoshop or Illustrator would be great. Thanks!
BTW I don't just want 45 degree angles, but all kinds of various angles.
I am having issue with smoothing my GIF images so that they do not display as jagged in my flash movies.
I am developing them in freehand and then web preping them in photoshop by maximising the colours to ensure high quality display - not worried about movie size right now (i just want to find the fine end of the graphic spectrum).
I am applying the following settings on saving for web: GIF selective, diffusion 256 colours and so on, following all the correct properties and my images (particularily lines and edges) are coming out jagged and pixelated. I have tried gaussian blur but this kills my image clarity and then they just look too soft.
When I select a font for the type tool in CS6, there's a list of about 200 fonts - half of which are foreign-language fonts, which I really don't need to see. Is there any way I can remove these from the list of fonts visible in the type tool without deleting them from the system? I don't want to delete them entirely, because I gather that Microsoft's cross-referencing system for font styles needs them. And who knows, one day I might actually need a 14th-century Mongolian font!  It must be possible, because other programs (such as Microsoft Word, and the Visual Studio programming environment) on the same system don't show all the non-European fonts.  Windows 7 Pro SP1 Photoshop CS6
In CS6, when I drag a picture into my ps file, it gets converted into a smart object. If the pic happens to be something like a png or jpg, and i add some adjustment layers or so, PS wants me to save it again (on the hard drive) before I can close it.
I always used to have my images opened as 'floating' documents. Since I'm using CS4, PS always opens new images 'tabbed', and I have to drag them out of there manually to get a floating window. Is there a way to prevent this? I noticed the 'Open Document as Tabs' setting in the Interface Preferences, but that doesn't seem to do the trick (either enabled or disabled, PS keeps doing it).
I want to use Photoshop CS6 on a Multi - monitor setup, using iGPU multi-monitor + GPU system for 4 monitors. Â Preiously, I used Photoshop on a Multi - monitor setup without useing iGPU multi-monitor.And, Photoshop worked well. Â However, when I wanted to use 1 more monitor, my GPU supports only 3 monitors.Then, I enabled iGPU multi-monitor function. It supports 2 more monitors. Â At first, It worked. But, after I use "Free transform", "Transform"Â or something like these tools, Photoshop hang up!
I installed both PS CC and BR CC for a second time and received and installed the first updates for CR 8.1 but still I cannot open PS CC without it closing on me immediately again. And when I try to open any photo in PS CC from Bridge CC I get asked if I want to save that file before I close PS CC. With no alternative to do anything else.
We have come across a problem using Adobe Photoshop CS6 and Illustrator CS6 on a MAC. We use Illustrator CS6 for putting together the graphics and use Photoshop CS6 for editing. When we save the image in full res and browse the image - the image looks grainy both on a Mac and a PC.
Select a "Do not show duplicates" box in Preferences that doesn't seem to exist with my Mac version. How do I force Elements 11 to ignore photos I've already uploaded?
I have eraser tool trimmed all round an item I wish to take out to another photo, so lets say I have a car, round its edge is now an 8 pixel border of transparency, car within, road scene outside, I click the car and get parts of the picture both sides of the erased border , I just want all of the car, or alternatively I click outside the erased border and get bits of the road scene but also bits of the car.  I have tried contiguous on and off, select all layers on and off, different wand tolerances, various combinations,...have I overlooked one that I can wand the road scene and it will select all of it up to the gap around the car ? I can then expand selection a couple of pixels and delete out the road scene.  So far I am left with carefully picking my way around the middle of the border with the straight line selection tool and erasing chunks away that way. Having taken ages to go round the edge of a complex shape , to have no option but to repeat the path with the stright line tool is a pain. I use a variety of brush sizes/settings and quickmask mode to initially select out the item. I should have used the lassoo tool then inverted selection, it doesnt allow for a variety of hardness in one selection and you cant sew what exactly you have got, unlike a pink edge.  Its simple stuff like this that I hope Pshop after many years would have a tool for, as well as all the luxuries/gimmicks.
OK, I have this jpeg that I brought into PS. Picture a white square with a red ball in the center. Now you want to get rid of the white background and make it transparent. Simple, right? You delete the white, save and that should be it. When I then bring the art into Illustrator on a colored page, the white is still there. If I place the psd file its not....jpeg it is. I've done this a zillion times! What happened?*
This is a cropped corner of an illustration I removed from its opaque background and placed on a transparent background. The north and west borders show the whilte line that forms whenever I place objects on a transparent background. The south and east borders are the cropped edges -- they are clean and make the trasition from object to background color without that white line. With some objects, it's possible to use the Plygonal Lasso Tool, for instance, and trim that object away from the background. With portraits or irregularly shaped objects, though, it's necessary to use the Magic Wand or other means to trim the background away from the object, which results in that unwanted white line. Defringing, Removing White Matte, Anti-aliasing, trying to predict what color you'll lay the silhouette on and working in that color, and on and on. It seems as though Photoshop would be relied upon heavily by professionals who need to place objects on top of one another without intrusion.
How do you avoid importing same file (Picture) from camera to Organizer more than once? I am in the habit of keeping pictures in my camera for a longer period of time. This is easy to control using Picasa - but what about Elements11?
I am archiving numerous historic photographs by scanning the originals as high-resolution TIFF files. I need to rotate the scanned images slightly in Photoshop for presentation/archiving purposes but I am worried about losing some image quality. Â To maintain loss less images, is it necessary to open my TIFF images as "Smart Objects" before rotating them? If so, this increases my file size many-fold on saving. Is there a way to maintain the approximate size of my original TIFF file? I am working in Photoshop CS4, Windows 7 64-bit.
What's the best way to avoid a groove in the middle of the lip when creating facial morphs with symmetry turned on and using the grab tool?
If I align the two dots and drag in the exact middle, this doesn't happen, but then I have to grab the lip a bit to one side to keep the lip even, and the groove will start to appear when I drag.
I am using Lightroom CC on my iMac to catalog my photos, a task I really find Lightroom perfect for.  However, I am also using my DSLR for shooting video´s, which I edit with Final Cut Pro. Lightroom is _not_ a part of the video import/editing workflow, so I really do not want to have Lightroom import all videos in addition to all my photos.  How can I set up Lightroom so that it no longer import videos? My current workflow is tedious, and really not one I like: I import everything into Lightroom, and then manually delete all the video´s.