Photoshop :: Graduated Screens Not Uniform In Color
Sep 24, 2008
I have made a foreground to background linear graduated screen in PS6 / windows xp and although the color selector shows black, foreground shows black, and background shows white, I get an almost rainbow like assortment of various color bands across the page. I have made the screen with the rectangle tool and also with a new fill layer and get the same results.
I try to change the color... red, green, pink just to see what happens, but nothing changes. It also prints the same way. I put a second new fill layer with a pattern fill to hide the effect, but the page still has faint bands of the wrong color running across it. Any ideas on this issue?
Need your experience with LCD screens and color management. I'm thinking of getting an iMac, but have read that the color and viewability on LCD screens differ from CRT screens and that color management is more difficult.
I would like to change the color behind the "2D MODEL SPACE" uniform background, too light. Type Config, go to Display tab and then Color, in the Drawing Windows Colors dialog box.
I require an equally spaced fine line shading in an extrusion. I will take you through my process and then get to the problem.
I create an object (usually curved text), extrude it and break the extrusion apart; then I use the fill tool and open fill color dialog, change to palettes and select black, 20%; next I click on options and select Postscript options, from there I select line and an angle and frequency. This produces exactly the fine line shading I need, when I print it on my postscript printer.
The problem is that when I save the file as an .eps or .ai file to send to another prepress, the screen in their file always show up as dots not lines. I have not been able to find a way around this, the other fill types use tiling and that does not produce the same consistent shading.
In Corel PhotoPaint X5, changing the fill color was possible by e.g. double clicking the (left-most) color square, then hitting Edit. Already, I found this was a bit too many clicks. Now in Corel PhotoPaint X6 it's gotten worse -- after hitting Edit, I'm not in the left-most tab "Models", but in the right tab "Palettes"!
My question: Is there any way I can open the Uniform Fill dialog with one click? (The Color Docker doesn't have a big color preview field so it doesn't work well for me when selecting and changing a color.) And is there any chance Corel will fix the bug with the wrong tab being opened?
I have a random question. I have a layer that I want to set in front of a background image, and I want the edges of the top layer to be transparent. However, I don't want it in some kind of blocky, obvious way. Something more like an outer/inner glow to where it's smooth and gradual, but transparent instead of with a color. I sidestepped the issue once before by giving the layer a white inner glow and making the background white as well so that it LOOKED like the desired effect, but now I can't really cheat like that.
When I make changes to a raw file using the graduated filter and then edit the photo in photoshop the graduated filter changes do not carry over to photoshop but all the other changes do. Whats up?
When the newsletter was printed in 1 color (blue) the photos were a bit dark. The text was ok. The printer suggested that I "screen back 60%" the next newsletter.
Well....the time has come to print another newsletter. I don't understand what "screen back 60%" means and I certainly don't know how to do it.
I have some photographs where the skin of the model's leg is not of uniform brightness. Without blurring it, I have tried the clone stamp but it is very difficult to not introduce further variations in brightness.
What is the best way to make skin uniform in brightness (actually, the same color!)?
Am new to CS5 and I discovered something quite accidently. In Essentials under styles I learned of these little boxes with dots around them and you could drag that over to your picture and a nice screen would appear over your photograph--much like the comic book effect if you did sketch and stamp and sketch and half tone, but this was an already made screen.
I went down the styles looking for how those dots formed into a screen where it would lay over your entire photograph. I'm not sure how I was able to get that effect, but any of those boxes I clicked on would have that screen with different sized dots. How do you do that with some skill?
I just purchased and installed Adobe Illustrator CS4. The first day I used it I had no problem, but now when I open images I get a black screen. Nothing I do causes the image to show. Event though I can see the images in the Layers control panel.
I would like to take a basic sketch drawing and use it for a tshirt design. I've scanned the image and cleaned up all the speckles and dust. The only problem I'm still encountering is that the lines are not even. It was traced in sharpie before I scanned it so the lines are crisp and smooth, but not even.
I have a lot of pictures taken under restricted library conditions where lighting is wysiwyg. A lot of the pics end up with an annoying gradation of tone caused by the poor lighting (and my poor photography skills), such as the attached image.
I use PSE 9 on a Mac.
How can I apply a uniform tone to images like this in PSE? For example, in the attached sample, the left-hand portion has a nice strong tone, while the right side is washed out. How can I create a nice unformity across the entire image?
All of a sudden, when I use my graduated filter while I am developing, it does not have any effect. I can see the lines, it appears to be working, but If I try and adjust the exposure, it does the whole photo, not just the section that I am trying to filter.
When I'm trying to use the graduated filter tool in 3.5 I don't end up with the lines or the marker to adjust it after I've applied it, the line and marker don't show up while I'm applying the filter and aren't there afterward either. Is there some place I need to select that as how it's shown? Also, I have a windows 7 laptop that meets the requirements for running lightroom but I'm having trouble with it not running very fluid-ly. That is if I move a slider to make an adjustment it doesn't apply it while I'm doing that it takes quite a few seconds and then applies it, which leaves me really all over the place trying to make fine little adjustments. It takes it's time to load photos and such which really isn't a big deal to me but for the little movements of the sliders or the curves I really would like to see what it's doing as it's doing it. If I had a more powerful laptop (or desktop but at this stage of my life I prefer laptop) would that improve that?
I was thinking of purchasing a chroma key/green screen backdrop because I have a lot of digital backdrops. What is the best way to swap out the background. To date I have used the magnetic lasso tool to cut subjects out and paste them on to another background, but the finished product looks like thats exactly what I did. I have seen other software that simply replaces the background. I have read everywhere that Adobe Photoshop is the "Industry Standard", therefore I refuse to purchase new software. What is the best method of making this work using Adobe Photoshop 7?
I have Designer Pro 7. Is there a way to get the outline of an object to take on the graduated fill transparency of an object? The line goes transparent with the object's fill when a linear transparency is applied, but remains opaque with a graduated one. I understand that I could turn the outline into an object and then apply the transparency but if I have to edit the object later, I would have to repeat the process.
I scanned an old, somewhat degraded photo, The horizontal center (i.e., top to bottom between left/right edges) is faded, getting better towards the left/right edges.
Is there a way to apply a graduated filter so that I can increase make adjustments to the center, fading out towards the right AND the left? That is, the effect normally graduates towards an edge; I want it to be strongest in the center and fade towards both edges.
I want to output jpg files as a slide show (not video) to various large LCD screens. Can someone advise me of the best image pixel dimensions and ppi for this? I have tried 4256 x 2835 at 300 ppi as generated by the psd file and it looks dreadful on a large screen. I don't have ready access to large screens, so I am not able to experiment myself. Also, when resizing images (both increase and decrease) is it best to have the "resample" box in "image size" ticked or not?
If you see the face iv used a smooth brush and its bringing out all these noise spots. If i try to darken a background its totally unusable. Iv never had these presets and brushes do this but the last 2 sessions iv had massive issues, Its happening on pics which i wouldnt think would have issues and have never had issues before. Lightroom 4 had none of these problems.
This is a weird one, but I am new to lightroom. I have these pins on my image, which are all grey, and when I click on them, they jump to another image. I can't seem to figure out what is happening here.. I think they were created when I add a graduated filter,,,
I cannot delete them because when I click on them they jump to a diffeferent image... It's super annoying trying to add graduated filters when you keep jumping to a different image...
I am working on a big project that involves black and white photography for newspapers. I haven't had any experience with using line screens over my images and am wondering how to do them correctly. I tried help in Photoshop but I didn't have very good results with the Bitmap and then 85 line screen setting. Everything looked very noisy (worse than a printed newspaper) when I printed the file out.
On my Macbook Pro Retina photographs that look stunning viewed in Preview, PhotoMechanic or iPhoto are all pixellated and blurred when viewed in Photoshop Elements 11.
I pasted the same graduated filter arrangement into several hundred action photos. I then slog through them in capture order, nudging them one way or another depending on crop and subject. On the next photo, the first time I click and drag --the filter NEVER moves! I must release and reclick to get it to move. This becomes highly annoying after a while. Enough so to write this.
Unable to see the lines of the Graduated filter tool or the outlne and handles of the new Radial filter tool. They were visible when I first installed Lr5 and used them on several photos
