I have profiled my monitor and my printer. I can print from photoshop and prints match my display. When I print out of lightroom, they are not even close. I use the same printer profile and the program manages the color.
View 10 RepliesAfter a support call, I've lowered the brightness on my imac OS 10.6.8 but the prints are darker than ever.
I've calibrated. The printer is an Epson 4900. Photoshop is managing the colors. I did not download the no color management app.
I have a Monaco EZ color Optix color calibration system. The unit has a sensor that is used to calibrate your monitor and comes with a 4x6 color print that (with the help of the users scanner) can be used to calibrate your inkjet printer.
I've used this system for a year and it works quite well. Lately, I've been using Sams club photo center for my prints. The prints are a close match to my screen, but not perfect.
To get perfect prints, I have done the following (kluge) which works, but is very time consuming. I'm looking for the correct way to "Calibrate the Sams club photo printer".
I pretend Sams club photo center is a printer. I had them make a 8x10 photo of the Monaco printer calibration file. I then followed the printer calibration proceedure as if the Sams club photo center were my printer. This results in an ICC profile for the Sams club photo center.
Now in Photoshop, I print my images using this ICC profile to the "Adobe distiller printer" that I have, which makes a .pdf file, with the corrected print in it. I then "extract" a .jpg or .tif file from the .pdf file, and send the resulting file to Sams for printing.
As I said above, this works but is very combersum. Is there a way to do this directly in Photoshop. All I am doing is applying an ICC profile to the RGB of an existing file to create a new file.
what the ideal birghtness setting for a calibrated display should be in order to correctly view an image as it should appear in print?
Most of the books and internet sites ive looked at recommend 120cd/m2 but on my monitor the image at this setting is much brighter than the prints from my inkjet printer.
I use Eyeonematch with an eye1 device which gives a range of luminance targets, again 120 being recommended in the software, but i found a calibration and profile at 90cd/m2 is about right in terms of a match for prints.
my question then is whether this is "correct" or am i setting the brightness too low? The image on screen is quite dim at 90cd/m2 and althought he image displays very well adn matches the print, id hate to think i was messing this up.
Why is it that whenever i use a command for pan and match properties, the hatch from the other areas do not display but when i exit the command the hatch is there. the problem is you cannot match the properties of from one hatch to another.
This happens in all drawings!
why is it that whenever i use a command for pan and match properties, the hatch from the other areas do not display or miss its visibility but when i exit the command the hatch is there. the problem is you cannot match the properties of from one point to another.
View 1 Replies View RelatedMy prints are getting clipped no matter what I try to do. I am losing approximately 1/8" from all sides of the finished print. From what I can tell, the picture is actually printing larger than the specified size.
This is my process:
In the Develop module I am cropping to the desired aspect ratio using LR presets, then going straight to the print module. My printer is an HP Photosmart C4780. In the Print module I set my margins to 0 and cell size to 4in x 6in. The picture on the screeen looks exactly how I want it to print. I go to Page Setup, select my printer, paper size (borderless 4x6) and orientation, click OK. Then to Print Settings, select the HP paper I am using, click borderless, click save. If I click "scale to fit paper size", I still lose approximately 1/16" on each side. Under Image Settings, I deselect zoom to fill. I have tried selecting it but still experience clipping. I have tried moving the margins in by fractions of an inch and I seem to recover some of the image, but its a long trial and error process that I feel I shouldn't have to do.
A 4x6 test print on regular 8.5x11 paper measures 4-1/8" x 6-1/8". The print layout in LR clearly says 4x6.
Does the watermark only used for images to be used for web base or put your watermarks on the actual printout?
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow to get rid of the border on 5x7 prints. i've removed them before but can't seem to remember what i did to get the full 5x7 print.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI use the print module extensively and have a large collection of "saved prints".How can I search this list by name ? (My saved prints names include date and original picture name) Browsing the collection in grid view is not very practical.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI print using Lr 3.6 and seem to never get on paper what Lr shows on screen. A case in point is that if I print with no (zero) borders specified in the Layout section of the Print module I get a print which is identical to the one I obtain when I set the left and right borders to non-zero values (e.g. 2mm). This is even though Lr's screen does show no borders in the first case and the expected borders in the second case.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI print out of Lightroom, monitor and printer calibrated with Colormunki. Soft proof with the paper profile looks fine (whether the manufacturer's or mine).
Print into jpeg file - looks fine..Print to printer with identical profile - colors don't match. It makes a significant difference whether perceptive or relative is chosen in color management, but in both cases colors just don't match. Perceptive - colors look completely different, relative - most colors are good, but deep black shadows for example are dark grey instead of black.
Printing the colorsamples for the colormunki - all colors look perfect.I've spent a fortune meanwhile on paper and ink..
I have used LR 2 in the past with Windows 98 and an HP Photosmart Pro B9180 shooting with Pentax k10d using DNG files and printing with few or no problems with minimal developing. I am now trying LR 4 with the same printer and camera but with Windows 7 and with little or no changes in developing the prints are very dull and almost black. I have the latest driver updates and am have the printer letting the application manage the color with the correct setting in profile.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am trying to print an US Letter sized print, no matter what I do in the page setup and print settings, it still comes slightly off center, top and bottom are goo, but the print area is offset about 1/8" to the left?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have an Imac running Maverick and an Epson 3880. I have calibrated my monitor, my printer and my paper with a ColorMunki. I use ProPhoto for all apps. All settings the same in both PS and LR.
If I print an image in LR 5 and then export the same image to PS and print it (all settings the same), the PS image is almost spot on. The LR5 image is very bad, being much darker and bluer.
OK. So how do I print a 4x6 borderless print on my new 7510 Photosmart? My only options seem to be a 4x6 tab print. What gives?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI watched Matt Kloszowki's LR killer tip on borderless printing and followed his instructions but my 4x6 print only fills about a 40% of the paper and I'm not getting the full image. I added a border to outline the edge of the =print whic I scanned. What do I need to do to print the full image?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have 9 copies of the same image with a different develop preset on each one so to compare. How do you get Lightroom to show the preset used on the image when viewing in lightroom and when you print, how do you get the preset name included on the print so you can tell which preset is on each print? At present I have to note the preset down and then write each preset name on each photo to show I know what was used.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am currently running win 7 64 with lightroom 4.3and an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 networked. I also have a HP 2610 as local. When printing to the Epson I get print with a lot of red to the point it looks pink or purple. This is with the color management driver set to custom and color management turned off or vice versa with color controlled by printer. If I print to the HP colors look great. I have tried different paper outputs with no luck. I also have the same problem in CS5.
View 1 Replies View RelatedThe photo itself will be the right size. But it sits in the middle of a 13x19 page, with massive margins. Other than when I actually want to print to 13x9, I have to pass off to another program to do the job.
Running LR4 in Snow Leopard. Epson R2880, latest driver.
I'm a long time LR user (currently LR 4.2), but just recently started producing a series of limited edition prints that include a graphical identity plate centered below the image. As LR insists on having to scale the identity plate, the result is that I can never produce a print where the text appears crisp and sharp. Rather there's always some perceptible softness in the text.
I'm using PhotoShop to produce the graphical identity plate and have produced it in the exact dimensions as it should appear beneath the print. When I bring it into the LR print module, however, it immediately scales it to 100% of the page size so I'm left with no option but to select a scaling % that most closely represents the original size.
Is there a solution to this? I only recently purchased PS CS6 and am thinking I should probably be doing this within that application, but honestly I'm just more comfortable in LR. For this print, I have the page size set to 20" x 30" and the cell size containing the image at 16" x 24". I think I know the correct process to duplicate this within Photoshop, but verify the procedure if LR isn't up to the task.
Yes, my monitor is an LCD and it is bright. It is not a proofing monitor. It was calibrated. I've been printing B&W from LR on an Epson printer (r1900 & r2400). I know proper color management. Turn off Epson Color Management, let LR manage color with the correct icc profile
Obviously I can do trial and error, brightening the photo until it looks correct.My thought is, is there a way I could print on one page Thumbnails or like in the film days strips with different "exposures." Then with one print I could pick how much of an adjustment is needed?
I upgraded to win 8 64 bit and neither Canon nor Ilford have updated their software but I dont know whether that is causing red/orange to be printed as green.
View 1 Replies View RelatedMA.JPG
why i can't not match properties (MP) multileader texts, as you can see on the pic, i want the Mleader text on the right to be the same size as on the left, they are in the same layer, same mleader style but when click MP to match with the one on the left, nothing happen?
I want to blow up some prints into large formats.... How can I export in TIFF instead of Jpeg in LR5?
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhen I shoot portraits, I like shooting in RAW with my Nikon D800. One of my favorite print labs is requesting that I reduce the size of the massive files that the D800 produces to an sRGB jpg and a size that is more suitable for 16x20s, 8x10s, and 5x7s since those are the sizes I usually sell. Because I use Lightroom (v. 5.2) 90% of the time to develop and export images, what can I do to correctly reduce the massive file sizes without fearing a reduction in image quality? I remember Scott Kelby saying in one of his publication (I can't remember which one) that it can be done with an image quality reduction for printing purposes. Do I reduce the Quality slider in LR, and if so, to what percentage without having any degradation of quality in the lab's prints? Should I reduce the image sizing and resolution, and if so, to what without losing quality for the print sizes I intend to sell?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI get a slight difference in color in my prints my when I use LR prifile vs Canon printer managed. The Canon is much truer to what I see on both monitors which, btw, are calibrated. LR throws in a slight magenta cast. Is there a way to correct this?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI currently use Mep 2012 although my question I believe is general in nature. As a sheet metal contractor I do drawings that have many different entities at various elevations. Many times I use change propeties to match the propeties of on entity like a linetype to change another. What I really need to do is have the ability to use a similiar button and match or change the "Z" elevation of a specific entity just like I do for linetype, color etc.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am getting an Error message stating "There was an error calculating the effective exposure for the target photo. No photos were changed. The files are jpegs. Is this an issue? I have been successful using this Develop feature on a few files, also jpegs, but more often than not, I am getting this error message. The selected file has an exposure adjustment done in the Develop module. Does MTE only work when the originals are significantly different in their original exposure?
View 6 Replies View Relatedi have found others with the same problem but not found the solution. here is a screen shot of the same photo open in both programs, this is the final image so its a 16bit psd, both working spaces are set to prophoto rgb. and viewing in the develpe window as well.
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the problem is more noticable in the blacks (darker side of the histogram)
i am duel monitor from my MBP to a Dell U2410f and use colour munki to calibrate
Why when I export s DNG to JPG do the develop settings not match between the two? Is it due to the dynamic range?If I export a DNG with no changes to JPG they essentially look the same using proRGB color space.
If I export from DNG to JPG after making changes I find the JPG is consistently over exposed compared to the DNG with the develop settings? So I have something configured incorrectly?