I have a script (modified version of export-selection) which when run makes the XCF look as if it has been saved. It's caught me a couple of times in that I have opened an XCF, made some edits, exported a selection, then clicked on the X to close GIMP, which it has happily done without complaint or prompt, presumably because the script has done the equivalent of saving the file and Gimp doesn't think anything needs saving again.
So, what's the simplest way in the script of:detecting and remembering in a variable that the XCF has been edited.if it has been edited, setting this "dirty" bit again after the rest of the script has run.1 is not essential, in that it would be OK if running the script always marked the file as needing saving, even if I hadn't edited it.
As you can see the sandstone building is old and dirty. What is the best way to clean up this building? I did several attempts, but all of them gave me a unnatural or blurry building.
Okay so I got the grunge brushes off of expertstudio but now I need more.... I need stuff to create things like there are on the splash page of teamphotoshop (splash 17, or splash 13). Anyone have some cool brushes I could have? Thanks for the advice in advance.
I'm creating a level for a 3D game, and I'd like to use self-made textures for that one. A part of the level is supposed to take place on the outsides of an old castle. So I need a stone floor that looks old, a little dirty and bumpy.
I've folowed a few tutorials, and I made pretty nice things, but I can't seem to make the stones look more realistic. If you take this example (not created by me)
You'll see that the stones have very subtle cracks and scratches, and that it looks dirty (notice the greenish moss growing on it, darker patches here and there, etc)
I want stones that have similar effects. Can anyone tell me how to make that greenish moss effect and how to make outside stone floors look dirtier and older in general?
Here's a way to make fairly realistic metal fill for an object, without having to fiddle with dragging colors from the color bar to the fill tool arrow.
In each program I have used from Corel Photo-Paint 11, Paint Shop Pro 5 and 7, to Gimp 2.6.11 the end result is exactly the same.
I select the background Invert the selection to pull it out of the original Paste the remaining image with transparent background or make an alpha channel The background needing to be transparent stays transparent.
The moment I save the image as a PNG, close the image, reopen it, check if the Mask/ Alpha channel data remains in tact, and it does, the transparency is completely removed and the background turns to white. This happens on every one of the programs and I am just at my wits end.
There must be something, an order of operations, a color scheme, a presetup step that -everyone- knows but me, that is preventing this from having a transparent background.
Every time I reduce the size (height & length) of a picture in Photoshop, I get a lot more pixels everywhere. And when I mean a lot, it's really so dirty that I cannot use it !
I don't understand because i've got some pictures from a Canon 40D that are really good quality, about 3800px X 2500px, it says its about 28cm large. If I reduce to 14cm, so half the size, I almost don't recognize the people on the picture if it's a group picture: a face is just composed of a few pixels. But when I send the pictures to a professional to print them on a 10cm postcard, it's perfect as the original, no "pixel-distortion".
I've tried many ways to shrink the picture: image size, free transform, I've tried tiff, jpeg... It's always the same. - Do you know a good way to shrink pictures without having the "pixelisation" problem, is there some settings to take care off ? Even maybe another software that would do the trick?
I become desperate because I'm working on a Dvd cover and the quality is so poor it would be better with my cellphone and it was shoot with a Canon 40D. I had this problem over and over with pictures from different origins and it's annoying when I have to work on small printout.
caused by a flood in my location (Bavaria/Germany), I have many damaged photos, which where stored in cellar, which was flooded. The photos are dirty and wet, but they can be cleaned and dehumidified. Many photos have now areas with ruined colors and "fire blizzards" on it. can I prepare damaged photos with Photoshop elements (8, 9 or 11) in that way, that I get back a good picture?
Surprised I could not turn this up in the Search. Whenever I open a new image to resize it, it does not change size, but sometimes I have seen it larger than this standard size. I need more space for my work, I dont like working with Zoom, or small print. How can I fix setting new image size so the entire background will increase?
I have 250 layers and want to change the ms setting on all of them. The only way I can find to do this is to go into each layer property and manually change the number. There must be an easier way. I can't find anyway to globally change all of them. Is there a plug in or some way of doing this that I can't find?
How can I set the standard brush in GIMP? If I start GIMP, it chooses a fat brush at first and i have to change it always to a thin brush. How can I tell GIMP, that it uses the thin brush at the beginning?
I use GIMP for a number of purposes, including general image editing, drawing and pixel art.
I'd like to be able to set up profiles for different hotkeys, default windows/window positions/brush settings, etc., but so far as I can find the only way to do this is to either replace/edit the settings files when loading up a different profile or changing its directory settings, neither of which is very convenient, nor am I sure if either is even sufficient.
there are a lot of plug-ins available to "clean-up" and perfect images...does anyone know if there are any real good filters for making a photo "dirty" ie dust, scrathes, light leaks, grain, distortion,blurring, vignetting, anything like that?
1) There's a part of a Lensflare that travels across a characters face, which I need to remove. What is the best way to deal with this? 2) I also need to change the Lens Streak on the street light to one that's horizontal.
I'm attaching a low res Quicktime of the shot - (608kb)
is there a way to set the default save location in gimp, when i create a new image and save it always starts in ~/Documents directory on the save dialog.
i tried to see if there was a setting i could override in gimprc but i was unable to find this, maybe i am looking in the wrong place.
I've set up GIMP 2.8.4 and it works great on my mac with Mountain lion.
However I need to run a batch script on a group of images and all tutorials for that take for granded that running gimp on a terminal window launches gimp. Well in my case it doesn't! And tbh I haven't found where I should point (the path to) the gimp command so that it would run.
So basicaly running Gimp on a terminal returns error no such command. And I need to know what path to add to my mac's PATH variable so that Gimp doesn't return an error. After that I would like to run the batch script from the terminal for the group of images I have.
I know how to add alpha channel to each layer individually and manually but is there a way to have an alpha channel added to each new layer automatically?
I got a mail from a German in Saudia Arabia. He runs Windows 7 withEnglish as default language. He installed GIMP 2.6.9 and it comes upin Arabic which he can't read.
He sent me a screen shot which shows the menus of his mail program inthe back behind the Arabic GIMP. They are in German, but he says hissystem is running in English. Localisation Hell?
When I export a Web JPG from GIMP and it offers me a sliding Quality barthat goes 0 - 100. I want to know if that's an equivalent to the similar JPG quality setting in Photoshop? The reason I'm asking is that my research on Photoshop indicated that JPG output quality settings above 75 were"theoretical." In other words, there might be measurable improvements inJPG quality past 75, but they will be imperceptible by the human eye. If the Quality settings are basically the same in both pieces of software?
Inventor does not think an update is required for iAssembly members after changes to attributes on a client feature are saved. In our workflow we avoid rebuild all because it causes subassemblies to change, so we force an update by changing a parameter. Through the API is there a good way to indicate that our change was significant enough for members to need updating?
I notice that when I hit shift to create a straight line, it seems to be straight in about 1° increments.
Is there anywhere that I can specify the increment angle? Mostly, I make 90° straight lines, so I'd like to up this increment so that there is a more noticeable space in between the increments.
I am reading some drawing tutorials for Photoshop and they talk about a setting of the brush called "flow". Is there a corresponding setting in GIMP and where it is?
Edit: After some additional searching I found that the option is called "incremental", but I also found that it doesn't work as described in the docs - it is not limited to the opacity set for the tool.
i have a folder with about 100 jpg files in it that i want to apply a general brightness contrast setting to.
Using the main interface to do each one I would need to go to Tools > Colour > Brightness Contrast and set a Brightness value of 16 and leave the contrast at 0
What i would like to do obvious is to run a batch command to do this operation on all files in a folder
I've tried guessing at a few command lines to do it but all have failed and basically how to do it.
Using the native GIMP rotate function to rotate a rectangular image about its center (for instance) the corners of the image which are exposed by the rotation are set to RGB 0x000000 with an alpha value of 0.so that these areas are transparent.
If the same operation is performed as a GEGL operation the corners have RGB values of 0x000000 but alpha values of 255 - i.e. they are solid black.
Is there a setting to cause GEGL to use alpha values of 0 for these pixels? This also applies to GEGL operations such as shear.
Is there any way of setting up an automated process/es? What I want to try to achieve is to move a layer incrementally along an axis,by say a few pixels at a time,whilst saving the frame generated,up to say 20 frames or more ?
Best practices for setting up systems in a lab environment. We have a lab enviroment of about 200 systems that access AutoCad, Inventor, Mechanical and others.
We need to have a customized interface come up when Autocad is opened by students.I have read that you can do this with profiles and workspaces and also with loading a acad.lsp file.
In the past we have just copied the Windows admin profile used to customize AutoCad to the default profile. In AutoCad 2013 that does not seem to grab everything. It doesn't seem to be the best way to do what we need.
We will also be moving to Windows 7 soon which will also cause an issue.I want to find the best way to do this with out having to deal with the Windows profile.
i would like to know if the ram setting slider in photoshop preferences/setting is meant to be for all the available ram in the computer or all available ram, which stays free from all other sametime running apps? for example, if i run osx 10.8 or 10.9, i use to run ONLY photoshop and no other app besides, so the finder would need maybe 2 or 3 GB RAM, and the rest is for photoshop.does the ram setting count with finder ram consumption or without?
my imac has 32GB RAM - so, if i set ram to 70% (out of 32GB) in photoshop settings, the finder can use 30% of 32GB, yes? anyway, it won't show "available ram is 32GB" in the settings, it shows less than 32GB would be available, so is this the answer to my question?
could i set it to 80% or 90%, when i only run photoshop (cs5 / cs6 / cc) and no other app besides? (only the 10.8.5 or 10.9 finder) or would this mean performance lags in photoshop?
