I have an old Commodore 64 Disk label that I would like to clean up for re-printing.
method of making this black and white (1 bit depth) while retaining the smooth edges?
I suppose it could be gray scale, if need be as long as it looks clean and mostly b/w.
I'm trying to figure out a way to clean up the background in a photo I'm working on. Is there a way (tool/plugin) to extend existing material over an area you want to cover up? I want the background to look consistent. I tried cutting and pasting and it looks OK but a little ragged.
View 6 Replies View Relatedwhich tool/s to to create an elliptical frame that I can pick up and paste would be sufficient to get me going.
I have a photo picture which I made 'elliptical'. You can see I have tried to make it elliptical using Word but the edges are messy (see attachment).
I have a question about this image;
As you can see the sandstone building is old and dirty. What is the best way to clean up this building? I did several attempts, but all of them gave me a unnatural or blurry building.
in my adobe photoshop CS2 my white is somewhat dirty or looks yellowish.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a script (modified version of export-selection) which when run makes the XCF look as if it has been saved. It's caught me a couple of times in that I have opened an XCF, made some edits, exported a selection, then clicked on the X to close GIMP, which it has happily done without complaint or prompt, presumably because the script has done the equivalent of saving the file and Gimp doesn't think anything needs saving again.
So, what's the simplest way in the script of:detecting and remembering in a variable that the XCF has been edited.if it has been edited, setting this "dirty" bit again after the rest of the script has run.1 is not essential, in that it would be OK if running the script always marked the file as needing saving, even if I hadn't edited it.
Okay so I got the grunge brushes off of expertstudio but now I need more.... I need stuff to create things like there are on the splash page of teamphotoshop (splash 17, or splash 13). Anyone have some cool brushes I could have? Thanks for the advice in advance.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm creating a level for a 3D game, and I'd like to use self-made textures for that one. A part of the level is supposed to take place on the outsides of an old castle. So I need a stone floor that looks old, a little dirty and bumpy.
I've folowed a few tutorials, and I made pretty nice things, but I can't seem to make the stones look more realistic. If you take this example (not created by me)
You'll see that the stones have very subtle cracks and scratches, and that it looks dirty (notice the greenish moss growing on it, darker patches here and there, etc)
I want stones that have similar effects. Can anyone tell me how to make that greenish moss effect and how to make outside stone floors look dirtier and older in general?
Here's a way to make fairly realistic metal fill for an object, without having to fiddle with dragging colors from the color bar to the fill tool arrow.
View 7 Replies View RelatedEvery time I reduce the size (height & length) of a picture in Photoshop, I get a lot more pixels everywhere. And when I mean a lot, it's really so dirty that I cannot use it !
I don't understand because i've got some pictures from a Canon 40D that are really good quality, about 3800px X 2500px, it says its about 28cm large. If I reduce to 14cm, so half the size, I almost don't recognize the people on the picture if it's a group picture: a face is just composed of a few pixels. But when I send the pictures to a professional to print them on a 10cm postcard, it's perfect as the original, no "pixel-distortion".
I've tried many ways to shrink the picture: image size, free transform, I've tried tiff, jpeg... It's always the same. - Do you know a good way to shrink pictures without having the "pixelisation" problem, is there some settings to take care off ? Even maybe another software that would do the trick?
I become desperate because I'm working on a Dvd cover and the quality is so poor it would be better with my cellphone and it was shoot with a Canon 40D. I had this problem over and over with pictures from different origins and it's annoying when I have to work on small printout.
caused by a flood in my location (Bavaria/Germany), I have many damaged photos, which where stored in cellar, which was flooded. The photos are dirty and wet, but they can be cleaned and dehumidified. Many photos have now areas with ruined colors and "fire blizzards" on it. can I prepare damaged photos with Photoshop elements (8, 9 or 11) in that way, that I get back a good picture?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a label, like a rectangular shape, and I want to place it on a picture of a bottle and give the label the same curve as the bottle.
How to curve the label ?
I'm trying to make a product label and am having trouble with what appears to be some limitations with the program. The Text feature does not allow me to highlight text and put only specific words in BOLD, what it does is it places everything in bold. It would also be nice if you could create a layer to come back and resize/reposition the text box later --By searching here it appears that that is in the works for the next version so that's good. This selective BOLD issue though - not cool, even MSPaint can do that. Adding the textbox outline would aso be a good.
I have not had good luck transferring over text from other programs.
there are a lot of plug-ins available to "clean-up" and perfect images...does anyone know if there are any real good filters for making a photo "dirty" ie dust, scrathes, light leaks, grain, distortion,blurring, vignetting, anything like that?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a rough shot (for me anyway) to clean up.
1) There's a part of a Lensflare that travels across a characters face, which I need to remove. What is the best way to deal with this?
2) I also need to change the Lens Streak on the street light to one that's horizontal.
I'm attaching a low res Quicktime of the shot - (608kb)
Inventor does not think an update is required for iAssembly members after changes to attributes on a client feature are saved. In our workflow we avoid rebuild all because it causes subassemblies to change, so we force an update by changing a parameter. Through the API is there a good way to indicate that our change was significant enough for members to need updating?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am trying to do labels that depict my logo. When I put the logo in the corner, the outer boundry overlaps even though the logo is within the label.
Print preview message says one or more components tresspass printable area. I have only entered the logo. The background on the logo has been removed.
How can I create a label for a live bottle with a lot of curves on it?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a pretty high resolution map of Manhattan in 1884 (screenshot below). The bones are good and it's what I need for a research project, but I'm finding it next to impossible to clean it up to the point where I can start. Ideally I want to get rid of everything but the gridwork of the streets. I can desaturate it and play with curves and levels, etc., but while I can clean up a lot of it, I'm finding it pretty much impossible to isolate the street grid. I already have 500+ text layers for street and avenue names. I'm hoping there's some way to do this that doesn't involve me setting up a new layer and tracing the whole island, block for block.
I'm using CS6 on a mac.
I'm fairly comfortable with photoshop; I can work with layers and masks, etc., but this is beyond my technical skills. I'm wondering:
1. Is this doable at all?
2. Am I missing something obvious?
3. Should I start over again with Illustrator?
I'm not very familiar with Illustrator, which is why I started with Photoshop. However, this is not anywhere near my area of expertise
I am currently using AutoCad 2008 and when i get DWG from another consultant I need to 'clean' it up to make it appropriate to xref into our working drawings. I need tips on the best way of cleaning up the consultants drawings. I delete a majority of information I don't need and put the information onto a couple of layers then purge. Should I explode the blocks? The xref keeps crashing the working drawing.
View 9 Replies View RelatedThe label associated to a grading point when is moved when is moved changes its size automatically and a leader appears. After this happen no control over the grading point and its associate label. refer to the image below.
View 1 Replies View RelatedC3D 2013. We have profile line labels, some of which get manually edited (for example, change the "<[Tangent grade(FP|P2|RN|AP|GC|UN|SD|OF)]>" to a static number such as 0.29%).
However, if you CTRL+Click and select one of these labels and change the style of that one label, then the manual edits are lost and the label reverts back to the default string.
Is there any way to turn this behavior off?
Is there a way to "Edit Label Text" in a Parcel area label? Similar to the way you can edit it in other styles.
View 9 Replies View RelatedHave some questions regarding follow up on my installation of PS CS6. First thing to say is that I hardly ever use PS. I use LR4.4 99.9% of the time, but occasionally have gone to CS3 for small adjustments even though I don't really know how to use it. Planning to learn now that I have 6. I'm running 10.6.8. (Disappointed that I can't upgrade to LR5 so will, at least, need to learn content aware, which was my main reason to go to PS6 anyway.)
So, the questions:
1. I have CS6 standard upgraded from CS3 extended. Any reason to keep CS3 around for low-level, general photography editing to take advantage of its "extended" qualities?
2. Other Adobe software that seems to have tagged along with other Adobe programs:
a} Adobe Stock Photos CS3? Nothing even opens when I click on it - can it go?
b) Device central CS3 - assuming it can go if CS3 goes but I don't see a "Device central" for CS6. Don't really know what it is, anyway.
c) Extension Manager CS4, CS5.5, and CS6. Can't imagine where the CS4 came from. CS5.5 probably came along with In Design 5.5, which is still in use, so probably keep that? Assume keep CS6.
d) Bridge 5.1 and 6. Looks like they are both picking up the same things. I don't use it since I'm using LR. Figuring get rid of 5.1 and keep 6 just because.
e} Interestingly, no ACR came tagging along with PS CS6. Since anything I would send to PS is going to go through LR4 I don't see a real reason to have it. I think the new fun stuff on LR5 isn't going into the new ACR anyway and, I figure I wouldn't be able to run it on 10.6, it doesn't seem like I really need it.
I have a vector image that includes a red circle as part of the image, but the circle is not 100 % even and round. Is there an easy way to clean up the circle to make it even all the way around?
View 4 Replies View RelatedCan I safely remove my Documents and SettingsmyuserLocal SettingsTemp files and directory? I have 18 GB of stuff in there and I have no idea what any of it is.
View 10 Replies View Relatedneed some insight on cleaning up images after adjusting the brightness...
They are very blochy like...
I have a picture here which is a small jpeg from a rather bad scan, and I'm trying to practice cleaning up with it.
I cropped it , ran auto colors and auto levels, and then desaturated the lips a bit,
I have an old photo of my brother and his surfboard that is very grainy and dark. It was taken with a very old camera and has been abused and cracked through the years. I have scanned this photo and would like to remove the grain. I don't really care about the background, but I would like my brother and his surfboard to look sharp and clean. I tried burring the image to lose some of the grain, but I then lose alot of the contrasting lines and obviously the sharpness of the image.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI recently received this poor-quality Xeroxed scan (below) as a PDF, and was asked if I could enhance it to show the names written on the pages. Does anybody know of a way to improve the quality of this image so the names are more legible (original image size is 8x11)? The image is of a logbook of prisoners interned at Buchenwald concentration camp in 1944; my friend's father's name is on the left page, about halfway down. The quality is actually much better in PS than what is displayed here. If need be, I can email you the original PDF, if that'll help.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have some jpegs (72 dpi) of family that I wanted to print out and put in a collage for a family reunion. I would like to enlarge them, but of course this makes the pictures pixelated and bad quality. Is there a way to get around this and make them look better? I could swear I have seen a plug-in that does this (or simulates) and helps make pictures look better with more detail. If there is any special tips or tricks or even recommendations of plug-ins on how I can achieve this,
View 2 Replies View Related