I hope I can get this explained where it can be understood. I create and box with an outline of 4pt's. Then I want to snap the outline to the very edge of the outline and the guide, but it does not work this way. when the box snapped to the guide it goes to the middle of the outline. How to get this corrected or changed?
View 2 Replies
When adding a guide in CS2, it would usefully snap to the centre of the current layer. Sadly, cannot make this happen in CS3 except for text layers.
View 18 Replies View RelatedI would like to have my cursor snap TO guides at time but cannot find a way to make this happen. Is this an option in PS cs2?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI don't want my images to default to "snap to guides." I have guides up on most of my files because I use them for spacing my comic; I work from a template so I can have consistent sizing. But I only rarely ever want to snap to those guides.
Yes, I can turn off the snapping, but I have to do this EVERY F***ING TIME. Open a file I've been working on already? Gotta disable the snapping. Open a new file? Gotta disable the snapping. Restarting GIMP because it just crashed? Gotta disable the snapping. Every freaking time for each freaking image. Gimp won't save the setting to the file nor to my preferred settings.
How can I get GIMP to stop setting the guides to snap by default?
Seems like both should still work when snap to pixels is on... but they don't. Any reason for this?
View 13 Replies View RelatedWhat I mean:
Draw an ellipse. Skew it with mouse.
Draw a rectangle to allign with ellipse's outer dimension by Alignment Guides (not by Align and Distribute command).
Now the aligned side of the Rectangle must be tangent to the ellipse BUT it's not! To verify, try to search an intersection point. Draw a Guideline and snap it to the rectangle's aligned side. It must be intersection point between Guideline and Ellipse but there isn't...
CorelDRAW X6
Is there a way to clean up an old newspaper picture in corel?
I'm not that good working with images i'm more of a vector man but I have been playing around with it but the results are not great.
The image itself is a typical grayscale newspaper image with halftoning and its gone a bit yellow over the years, all I want to do is get rid of the yellow and brighten it up a bit.
I am working on a large wall sticker and I need to "slice" the image into pieces for vinyl printing. Is there anyways to place guides (or slices) and have them be converted to separate art boards for printing? In the past I would make individual art boards the exact size of each object and save them one at a time to send to the printer. Then once the art came in I could piece the wall art back together as I applied it to the wall or glass, But this is time consuming.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a number of vertical and horizontal guides to be placed, at different points. Is there a better way of placement rather than zooming up on the ruler area, watching the Nav coordinates and dragging and dropping? I'm really looking for a method which will I can key in the actual placement coordinates in some way, and the guide will jump to this point?
View 6 Replies View RelatedHow do I snap (objects or, especially, guidelines) to the outer edge of an outline? The guideline always snaps to the edge of the object, if the outline is behind, or within the outline if it's in front of the object.
I usually employ workarounds such as converting the outline to an object but that's not always convenient.
I often need to move (a group of) objects on a page, but with those objects I also need to move the guidelines that belong to this object. Is there a way I can lock guidelines to an object so that if I move the object, these guidelines move with it?
View 5 Replies View RelatedX4 user here that upgraded to X6 a few weeks ago. One thing that's blowing my gord is having my dimensions "lock" to guidelines and/or objects -- My dimensions aren't locked in the classic sense, i understand how to lock a dimension in corel. What i mean every time i create a dimension with master guides, and then try to move my guides, my dimension moves with it.
The worst of it is that i'm mostly getting them linked to master guidelines, so when i create a new page, say page 2, and want to move a master guide, i go back to page 1, and it has messed up all my dimensions.
And no, i do not want to break my dimension apart, I need it to stay as a working dimension!
I am working on a photo layout of new students. This year I'm using X6 and am having some, uh, issues.
I'm using last year’s file (X3), and open it in X6. I click on an old photo and edit with PowerClip, instead of first editing several photos in Photo-Paint. I just drag and drop the new photo into the PowerClip and resize/resample it there. Next, I hold down the Shift key, click on the original photo, press C then E, and the two images are on top of each other. In X3 (and for as long as I can remember using PowerClip), I press F4 to zoom to objects (i.e. the two photos). I can then make any minor adjustments to fit inside my rectangle and delete the old photo before finishing my editing.
Upon pressing F4 in X6, however, it zooms to the entire page’s objects instead of the two selected photos. Is this by design? I now have to click on F2 for the magnify tool, and then click 'n' drag my mouse around the photos in order to get the same thing that took only one key stroke in X3.
Regarding those minor adjustments, the effect I want is to get all of the student heads about the same size: lining up the tops, chins, and eyeballs. In X3 while editing in PowerClip, these guides are visible; I can adjust the size and/or nudge to get things exactly where I want them.
It's different in X6: I can’t see the guidelines! They are BEHIND the PowerClip's photo and useless! If you switch to outline mode you can almost see them (along with the ghost of a photo), but then you have to switch to outline mode and if you don't switch back before getting out of the PowerClip, the photo doesn't show up. And it’s not a stacking order thing in the layers either: it does not matter where the guides layer is relative to my photo layer. Order is irrelevant.
So in X6, in order to use the guides layer I have to edit in the PowerClip, right click > finish editing, assess where I need to resize and/or nudge, then get back in and edit the PowerClip. Repeat until I get the look I want. Or just get it done in X3.
When I have the design ready and it's just busy work, I like to see how much I can do with keystrokes and not touch the mouse. I am so glad I still have X3 loaded on my machine. I want to get these two composites clipped and done. X6 is just not the same.
Turn off snap to objects.Now select a dimension tool and draw either a vertical or horizontal dimension line.Now notice the snapping to objects is re-enabled.How can I stop this from happening without having to keep turning of snapping while in dimensioning mode?This looks like a glitch in X4 because I don't see this problem in X5.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhile keeping snapping to object command switched on, CorelDRAW refers to the center line of the outlines of objects for snapping. That is if I have 2 rectangles with 0.5 line weight each and if I move on close to another so that the gap between them is zero, then while doing snapping, the outlines of these two rectangles get overlapped which I don’t want.
Windows 7 [64-bit], Core i3 - 3.02 GHz, 4GB DDR 3 RAM
As a laser engraver I rely on moving the object to engrave to the top Left of the Page before sending to the laser.
In X4 I have an addon program called EngravePro. With this I can use the shortcut H to snap to top left of page.
This addon is not available for X6.
Is there another way to do this with a simple shortcut key?
I was using some horizontal guidelines to line up text, and was infuriated to find that this doesn't work because Draw snaps the bottom of descenders to the guideline, instead of (duh) allowing them to descend below it.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI know the effect I want to go with for my project. Looking to create an older newspaper style clipping. Taking the picture placing it with text with the newspaper font, and making it look like an old news paper article. The yellow fade around the edges. I think I can figure out most of it, but to get that printed on old news paper effect is what I am striving for.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI want to do, without scanning, something that could be found as a ripped out newspaper piece. Now the rip and the text I get, but in gods name, I don't seem to be able to do the paper itself so it looks "real", newspaper-like...
View 5 Replies View RelatedI need to manipulate digital newspaper clippings from the early 1900's in order to enlarge and create a readable hard copy. The pdf's that i am getting from the NYTimes are often miniscule - like microfilm. They are always a PDF and I am looking for the most efficient way to create (multi-page okay) readable copies.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI scanned a color image from a newspaper, so of course it's pretty grainy. I've done things like despeckle, which helped a bit, and some other filters to get rid of noise and such but I was wondering if anyone had any useful tips for improving newspaper images? (i.e., get rid of the grainy look from the high dot content, just make it look cleaner)
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to blend cut up pieces of a newspaper type thing into a person's face. I want the text to be visible, but not overt and blended into the skin. Any idea how to get this effect? I had tried by cloning the face and sticking the text between the two layers, which kinda worked, but i want a more "collage" kind of effect.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI scanned it in 3 scans at 300 dpi and pieced it together in photoshop...
Now I want to be able to put it on my website, with the text readable of
course. So what would be my best approach here.. a pdf might be okay, but it's also nice for the web user not to have to view a pdf file especially if they do not have the reader ...
what if I scan a article which has both pictures & text? Can I use descreen for only the picture part or do I have to scan the whole article without descreen and afterwards find a way to deal with the moire effect? Or what is the best way to do it?
And then some random Qs:
I'm not anyway professional, I just have some articles I want to scan and make a scrapbook. Is InDesign best tool for creating the digital scrapbook when I also want to print it for some of my friends? Or are there some better tools?
From what I read, did I understand right that 300dpi is enough for my pictures/text scans (like I said I also wanna make a printed version of my scrapbook)?
I am working on a big project that involves black and white photography for newspapers. I haven't had any experience with using line screens over my images and am wondering how to do them correctly. I tried help in Photoshop but I didn't have very good results with the Bitmap and then 85 line screen setting. Everything looked very noisy (worse than a printed newspaper) when I printed the file out.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm looking to were in elelment 11 to convert a newspaper clipping to a JPEG picture.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to send a file to a newspaper for print. Only thing is Illustrator makes the files massive.
A normal newspaper ad ends up to be 58MB when converted to PDF. When i make something in Indesign it only exports to about 8MB for PDF.
I scan newspaper articles then add them to a PDF collection. I want the newspaper tones of grey to disappear. What is the easiest way to change the greyscale to black and white?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a school project, so this is a time-sensitive post- I'd like to print some photos to replicate Victorian era newspaper drawings.
View 6 Replies View RelatedThis is a small area from a grotty scanned copy of a newspaper cutting I am trying to 'improve'. I do not have the original paper copy. Best approach to remove the imperfections? I have a few like this to address
Attached Thumbnails
How to alter a scanned newspaper photo to get it to look like a continuous line photo using cpp apps? is there a tried technique? i tried tracing in cdgs but it looks like the dabble app was applied in cpp i want to try and get rid of the 65 line printing ink dots. if no one has a way, i will post one if i am successful. trial and error can be fun if you have the patience and fortitude.
View 11 Replies View Related
