Premiere Pro :: Interpolation For Converting 90 Degree Shutter 25fps To 50fps?
Jan 3, 2014
I am planning to use a 50fps timeline, but my camera does not support 50fps, so the next best thing I can do is 25fps. My understanding is that if I shoot with a 90 degree shutter at 25fps, then that is like shooting every second frame of native 180 degree shutter 50fps. I hope that is correct The question is, how do I get Premiere to interpolate the additional frames so I have a nice smooth 50fps finish? Do I need a plugin? I don't want the blending modes that just overlay adjacent frames. I'm looking for a solution that creates brand new frames with moving objects where they would have been, had the footage been shot at 180 degree 50fps in the first place.
We have some FLV files we're looking to edit at work, and then export as MOV for upload to YouTube. I'm currently receiving signifcant quality loss in this process. I've tried a variety of work flows and export/compression settings, and can't match the original quality of the FLV file I'm currently receiving for editing.
How to reduce/remove the quality loss I am currently receiving?
I can't create MPEG-4 HD 1920x1080 25fps files from my edited video's. Even creating a template with 1920x1080 and 25fps seems impossible. I only get a 30fps (default?) setting.
I received a drawing from a client, which has all the features on a coordinate system, But the drawing is rotated for some reason. Even after rotating the drawing the coordinates are the same as it was prior to rotation. I believe there may be some variables that has been changed for this. If a line is drawn A@100<0 it is drawn vertical instead of horizontal and like wise @100<90 is drawn horizontal instead of vertical.
I finished my movie and cannot seem to find a way to get this burned successfully to a DVD. Encore did not download with my month purchase of premiere pro cc and when I open the creative cloud there is not additional options to download encore. I have tried exporting the media to a MPEG-2 DVD file however, windows media player cannot seem to open that file and I have not been able to successfully burn it to a disc. I just want to burn my movie to a DVD to play on the television
I've recently been brought on to a production (hour long doc) that's pretty much already been edited to time (picture locked), however at the time of the editing they didn't have a broadcaster. Now they do have one on board that's requesting delivery in 60i.
All the footage was shot at 29.97p with a 5D Mrk 3. The show was started in Premiere CS 6 but they upgraged to Premiere CC. I know that it's now possible in Premiere to change the sequence settings of a pre-existing sequence. I was just wondering what would be the simplest way to convert the footage / timeline to 60i from 29.97p footage sititng in a 29.97p sequence. Do I have to re-transcode all of the footage in the edit? or can I just change the sequence settings and have premire treat the 29.97p footage as 60i? I assume this wouldn't change the running time of the edit since I'm just splitting the progressive frames into fields.
Running a MacBook Pro (osx 10.8.5) Premiere v7.2.1
I am using Photoshop CS3 for Mac with a Nikon D70s shooting JPEG images. Can I determine my shutter activation count for the D70s (metadata in EXIF) through CS3?
When I am placing a roll-down shutter family in the same wall and same place as a transaction window family that is the same size gives me an error stating the family is not cutting anything and has to be deleted. How do other people do this?
I have recently upgraded to a HiDef video camera and at first was recording at 1080i (interlaced) and now changed to record at 1080p (progressive).
I have noticed when viewing (on my PC) some of the clips I recorded that there are 'jagggies' along the edges of objects.
I have found that this is a result of 'interlace' and possibly panning too fast. My camera displays a warning "camera is panning too fast" if in fact I do pan too fast but this was not the case as when recording with panning I usually pan so slowly that I often have to increase playback speed during editing AND also the clips I viewed were on people walking in the same direct at the camera, hardly panning too fast. With that said I am thinking (and hoping) that it was a result of using 1080i (interlaced).
This begs the question - Can shutter speed have an effect. The reason for the question is that I have noticed that my new camera (seems to) automatically sets the shutter speed faster and leave the aperture wide when there is a lot of light (I can see that by changing to MANUAL mode and noting the aperture and shutter speed.
If this is the case then should try using a NEUTRAL DENSITY filter to force the camera to use a slower shutter speed? I used to have to do this with my old MiniDV camera to prevent overexposure in brightly lit scenes (the shutter speed never seemed to change without me manually doing so).
If I want to to print an image at a certain size in photoshop but do not want to have the image resampled up or down I can basically do this
1. go to image, resize and uncheck the resample image box and type in the resolution at which I want to print = lets use 300ppi just for kicks.
2. Now that will depending on the resolution of the image this will resize the photo the the max size that can be printed at that print resoultion- period. Then is the image is say 5x8 and I want to crop to 4x6 I can set the crop tool to 4x6 and leave the resolution fields blank, to crop with no resampling. Is this correct so far?
Now want I need to know is how do you do the math to figure out max print size from a given resolution- if I have an image that is 800x640 say- how do I convert that to inches to see the max size that can be printed without resampling- am I just dividing both fields by ppi?
to be sait i have picture 8*6 and 300ppi and i wont to scale this image to 12*10 and 300ppi with crop tool (not image size). my question it's: do photoshop now in this function make bicubic smoother for interpolation or he that's make asimple interpolation like bicubic?
I have a helix spline that is pretty large. The larger I make it the more evident it is that it is made of segments. I can't find any place to adjust the interpolation. Is there any way to add more segments to smooth it out a bit?
What is interpolation when scaling images in Gimp? it is under quality. I see there are None, Linear, Cubic, & Sinc (Lanczos 3)... what are these and which one is the best one?? and does it matter which one e.g. are they all the same?
I created a photobook in photoshop elements 9 and selected "print locally". Now I want to send it to a commercial printer and can't figure out how to do so. I have checked with both Shutterfly and Costco, and they want each page sent as a separate picture.... How do I do that?
Transforming Objects updated 8/6/12 and it still doesn't mention that in photoshop cs6 one can specify the interpolation method used for the transform in the tool options bar:
way to animate the 'steps' parameter of a spline such as text? The effect I am trying to achieve is have the wireframe of a mesh (extruded text) get more detailed. I have tried subdivide but it is not the same.
If I generated FG maps with interpolation of every 3 frames and I use read FG points at every 2 frames. Would this be wasting my time? Would it be better if I just set it to 0? Once it starts rendering it comes up with warning signs saying it can't find specific FG maps which is understandable. Would max have to generate new ones (because this would be a waste of render time) and if it does can I somehow just tell it not to?
It is an animation that I am rendering (moving car and moving camera).
I've been trying to resize an image and tried Gimp 2's interpolation method but nothing happened. I increased the size to 150% with 153 pixels (I think). Did I do something wrong or is Gimp just not good for interpolation?
Is there a way to do a precise crop in any units that avoids interpolation. As far as I know entering a size in the input boxes, does not give a crop box of that size, as it does in the selection tool. The only accurate way that I can think of is to use guides to mark the crop and then use the crop tool. A bit primitive is it not?
Also can the guides be set by an input box? It is very difficult to pull them to the correct position, using the info box. I can only set 1000 and 4000, by zooming to 100% and then scrolling, otherwise the info box is too coarse. I suppose someone will say that CS6 addresses this!
When I try to scale down a Smart Object, by using the Free Transform tool, I get over-sharped edges. Mind you when I do the same on a raster layer I can overcome it since there is an option box where I can choose interpolation method.
This should be very simple: frame 1 = 0 degrees rotation, Frame 10 = 360 degrees rotation (e.g. propeller). Max just makes frame 10 = 0 degrees, therefore, no movement.
