Photoshop :: Correct Edge Of This Image
Jun 18, 2009to correct the edge of this picture?
View 5 Repliesto correct the edge of this picture?
View 5 RepliesHovering over a row of thumbnails, I swap the full size photo following this code :
var photo = new Image();
photo.src = 'images/'+fileName; // parameter of the function
console.log(fileName+' L= '+photo.width+' H= '+photo.height);
sym.$('toile').attr({
width: photo.width,
height: photo.height,
src: photo.src
});
The full size photo swaps, but retaining the dimensions of the first one (initially on the Edge stage).
Even more puzzling, as you can see in the following screen capture, sometimes I can get the correct photo.width and photo.height (even if it isn't correctly assigned to the 'toile' element), and sometimes those values are zero ! And I feel so lost that this seems random.
May be it has to do with loading delay, asking the width and height information before it is available ? Should I necessarily preload the images ?
I'm doing a drag and drop. I'm working on how to check whether the user has dragged and dropped the elements correctly or wrongly in order to display the corresponding animation. That means, all the same type of animals have to be placed together in the same row in order for the animation to display a "correct" feedback, and if the user placed it in the wrong order, it will display the "wrong" feedback. There are 3 types of animals: birds, snakes and insects. The "feedback" animations is in the "feedback_sym".
I have placed a "Reset" button on stage, but it does not appear even after changing the positions on the "Elements" column.
Here is a link to my folder. [URL]
I have a touchscreen project that I am using Edge Animate to create. So far its working great, but I am trying to find the correct code to make an Idle Timeout after 3 minutes to go back to the stage frame 1 or the label "StageStart" that I have created. I have tried attaching the following code as a 3 second test to the function "touchend", but it doesn't seem to work:
setTimeout(function(){sym.play("StageStart")},3000);
When I go to crop or move an image close to the edge of the canvas it jumps to the edge. I am having trouble especially with cropping the space between the image and the edge of the canvas the way I want it. turning off this jumping to edge problem I'm having?
Also, I've used CS4 a fair bit and haven't come across this same problem but in PE when I'm editing things like adjusting text on a layer and I'm changing options with hotkeys to resize the text box for eg, Elements seems to jump to the background layer quite alot and then I have to click back on the layer I want to edit between changing tools. Is it something to do with the Esc key?
I have a Nikon P7000 with a 28-200 mm wide zoom Nikkor wide lens. I have several RAW images that are out of focus. I took these when I was just learning how to use this camera. How can I use the attributes of CS5 to sharpen the image or bring it back into focus? Should I try to use the correction lens features?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have my own large format printer which accepts 54" wide rolls of media. I plan on printing a number of photos on canvas, and am wondering about a few things:
- If I wish to make a 40" x 30" print, what is the correct way to re-size the image in PhotoShop (CS6)? Out of my camera, the images are 4592 x 3448 px, so do I simply punch in 40" x 30" in the "Image Size" menu, and then select "Bicubic Smoother (for enlargement)"? (see attached image). Or should I just re-size the image in the RIP software?
- Some of the images were shot in Raw, but some as JPG. For the ones that were shot Raw, should I also save them as JPGs before printing, or is TIF better?
I am thinking of creating a few animated gifs for standard sized banners. I see alot of banners having random people in them, or cars or animals, etc.. anything that will make the banner look more professional and to the point. how do you get those images? Surely the artist doesn't go around the street snapping photos of people and then transfer them onto to the computer. Is there a database of these pics people can use?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a Photoshop image, which has been edited down to a shape of a person, with a transparent background. I would like to use this image in Illustrator, and do not need it to be vector, but would like the object to be shaped like the image, rather than a rectangle. How do I get the Illustrator to read the edge of the image as the edge of the object?
View 3 Replies View RelatedShot by a phone camera. I think the child who clicked couldn't focus & couldn't keep still...Not an easy job to fix this,at least i can't.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI want to may a small flyer for a party. i want to start a new file. what size do i make my file to fit on a 4 x 6 card, or a card the size of a post card?
i have been able to print these sizes but sometime things get cut off the edges. if i knew what size to start with i could fit everything on the flyer.
The image i took was one of my desktop accessories from about one ft. away and at 24mm wide angle. in the image"s four corners is the black edges of the lens.(raw one) Also the front edge of the desk is curved inwards and i have some bowing of the desktop accessories. how can this be corrected? I am sending two images one jpeg and the other the raw image.The second one is the RAW one. What else can be corrected in the raw image.
View 2 Replies View Relatedtook thousands of photos. Unfortunately a piece of lint got caught on the inner lens of my camera and caused a smudge/lint line to appear about 1/4 of the photos I took. Its relatively easy to pshop out the smudge mark when the defect area is a solid, or nearly uniform area such as sky (clone or bandaid tool, etc). But when it gets into something more complex, such as buildings or otherwise, its going to need a little more manipulation. I am curious to see how members of this community would fix this. I've attached a rather tame image so as to demonstrate the problem. You can see the obvious anomaly in the upper 1/3 of the right margin.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm working for a client watermark his images. He has designed a watermark in PS CS6 that extends across the bottom of the image, the full width of the image. Like this:
Obviously, the images to be watermarked are all different widths and the watermark gets scaled up or down accordingly which is not the desired effect. On tall/thin images, the watermark is barely visible. Vice versa on wide or square images. I have tried many different widths of the watermark based on the widest and thinnest images. It works, but still not the desired effect for my client.
I've installed the Adobe Watermark Panel, but it seems that it wants to resize images with a width/height box on the right of the image quality and ppi boxes. (I might be reading that wrong though)
I've also tried several freeware programs. All work fine, but my client doesn't seem to think so.
So the question is, can I apply a watermark that doesn't get scaled? I know image height is a factor. I could write my own application to do it, but this seems like a re-inventing the wheel issue. I think the watermark should be scaled in height to a percentage of the image being watermarked and any excess width should be cut or truncated.
Is it possible to correct a digital image from an old scanned slide, which has been scanned back to front, using Photoshop Elements 10?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have Photoshop Elements 10, and am trying to print a black and white drawing that was scanned, then sent to me via email. When I print out this image, it has an overall green hue and I cant figure out why. I have the black/grayscale box checked in the advanced print settings, but that has still not fixed my problem.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a designer that created this beautiful (but complicated) design in illustrator and now we're trying to get it exported to html. The thing is, most of the images that are in tds we want to be background images so that we can put stuff on top of it. So we need the exported html to generate the image size correctly. For example, I don't want
<img src="someimage.jpg" width="100" height="100"...
but
<img src="someimage.jpg">
The problem is that illustrator for whatever reason is generating the images slightly too small (I guess to make the image size smaller?), then is stretching them using width and height attributes. As I'm sure you guys are aware of, the background attribute has no way of specifying a width and height.
I have an Edge animation with a dial which indicates a percentage value. I want the dial to animate from zero up to the correct percentage value. This percentage value will be calculated via PHP and supplied to the Edge animation.
So what I'm asking is can you specify the rotation value for an element dynamically (via code).
What is the proper way, using gimp, to correct the orientation of animage?
For example, I just took a shot with one of my cameras where I was holding the camera in a vertical (portrait) orientation. But when I transfer the .JPG to my PeeCee and view it with gimp (or ImageMagick)it is laying over on its sid, in landscape orientation.
To fix this, should I be using Tools->Transform Tools->Rotate or is there a better way? (Actually, I did try doing it that way using gimp, and the results were distinctly unacceptable... some parts of the image got cropped out, and some new transparent parts were added.)
I did try googling around for gimp and"orientation" and/or gimp and "rotate" but didn't find anything enlightening. I also checked the Gimp FAQ and again came up empty.
I'm a very new user to GIMP but have been using paint shop pro for quite some time - I still use version 7
Here's the situation: I received a pdf that I want to print so I imported it into gimp. It's 8.5x11 at 100dpi & two pages. So I imported it as two images (not layers) at same resolution settings. White out the unnecessary images go to print and then to printer preferences. 300 dpi is the smallest resolution on my printer so I also select 8.5x11 paper & 'sale to fit.' The resulting image is so large that approx only the top-left quarter of the doc prints.
OK, so in GIMP I go to 'Print Size' change the image resolution to 300 pixels: same result, exactly
Print size isn't it, lets try 'Scale Image' at 300 pixels. Same result again...
I tried both settings above with 'scale to fit' (printer) on & off with absolutely no changes to the printed image... very strange. Is gimp overriding my printer settings? If so how do I correct this?
Interestingly, when I re-sized the images in gimp (or thats what I thought I was doing with 'print size' & 'scale image') the size of the view-able image on the desktop in the application window did not change... the size of the window stayed the same, the zoom percentage did not change & most importantly the image did not change.
Finally, I checked if the original image prints correctly in Adobe Reader: No problem and it prints fine. Unfortunately, while I have what I need, I'm not one to give up that easily and want to know if the issue is the printer, gimp.
Why I can't get the image to print in GIMP at the correct size?
Windows XP Home SP3 - I just reformatted the hard drive last week so everything is a new clean install
Hp Officejet 4215 all-in-one
GIMP 2.4.7
I am finding that my Lightroom 5 prints are bigger than the settings that I input in the Print module.
View 3 Replies View RelatedWorking in CS5.I have a vector image that I need to resize and save as a .png. I first create an artboard to the correct size I need (55x20 pixels), shrink my vector image to fit and then export to .png using the artboard as my boundaries (so that I get the correct size).Problem is, the resulting file is not 55x20, it is 229x83 (when I open in Photoshop). I can't figure out why the file is not saving to the correct size.
I have also tried opening the file in photoshop and resizing down, but that doesn't work either. My image becomes very distorted.I don't generally work in pixels or pngs...what would be the best program and process to do this. It doesn't seem like it should be so difficult, but for some reason it is!
Nearmap has provided an aerial image georeferenced in the same coord system as Google Earth (epsg:3785). I found a Map 3D coordinate system WGS84.PseudoMercator (epsg:3857) which on web forums is equivalent to epsg:3785. After loading the image into a dwg on the epsg:3857 coord system I then queried the image into a dwg file on an mga55 gda94 coord datum.
It rotated the image correctly but as we had survey located features in the drawing the image needed to be shifted a further 1.75 metres SW than the transformation that Map had performed.
My question is to confirm that the Map epsg:3857 is indeed the same as epsg:3785? Given I had to shift the image I suspect it isn't.
Nearmap have also suggested using an epsg:900913 coord datum but there isn't one in Map 3D.
I have created a farm map in AutoCAD 2008. I want to have a sign made with this image on it with dimensions 775mm x 1096mm. I saved this image as an eps file of size A4 and sent it to the sign maker. The sign maker got back to me and told me that when he blew this image up it was blurry and could I please save it at its actual size.
My problem is that I'm not sure how to save this image at this size.
The export works not correct in LR5.3 When the field "Dont enlarge" are activated Lightroom ingnores the settings of image sizing and export the pictures in original size.
View 11 Replies View RelatedI just noticed yesterday that when I have RAW (DNG) files in my LR5.2 library, I can select the correct lens profile to apply. When I take three of those files and merge them together in Photomatix Pro they come back as a single TIFF file. Now LR only has one lens profile available, and it is the wrong one.
This is happening with my Sony NEX-7 and Tamron 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR DI-III VC. With the RAW files, I have a list of Tamron lenses from which to choose, and the correct one is available. For the merged TIFF file, however, only a single Tamron lens is available for selection, and it is not the lens I used.
I'm capturing television frames using a TV capture card, but the resulting images do not have the correct brightness/contrast and color values.
Instead of manually altering every image using trial and error, I'd like to take a "correct" source frame that I know is correctly balanced (such as a test pattern), and use it to correct my other captured images.
I've tried saving the source frame's levels and curves and then loading them into the captured frames, but this doesn't produce quite the effect I'm looking for.
I have a photo of a painting that was taken with Kodak color checker patches on one corner. It looks like I need to adjust the colors in Photoshop.
I want to use the color checker as a reference to correct the overall image color and contrast. However, I don't know how to use it as I have never worked with color checker patches before.
how to color correct the image on photoshop?
I am attaching a cropped sample image. The original image is in RGB. The colors on the Kodak patch as follows: Blue, Cyan, Gree, Yellow, Red, Magenta, White, 3/Color, Black.
I have a problem with After Effects being unable to process image files in the correct order when making time-lapse videos.AE seems unable to identify the correct chronological order from the camera generated file names and the files need to be re-numbered with a number prefix.
However sometimes even after re-numbering AE still cannot order the files correctly and will generate a video with either individual or blocks of frames out of order.
I have another app (Video Velocity) that can also suffer exactly the same problem and which will often process a video with the exact same individual or blocks of frames out of order as AE.
However VV has options to order the files in various ways including ‘sort by file create date’ in which case the time-lapse video will be processed correctly. AE doesn’t seem to have this option? Or does it?
I want to blur just one edge of an image in my site header, so it fades into the white background rather than retaining a sharp edge. I could finally get the effect (using an alpha channel and Refine Edge) but couldn't get it to stick when saving.
I read that JPGs can't accommodate alpha channels but even a tif didn't work.
I tried different functions like Refine Edge, feather, etc - all to no avail. I was working in PSD.
how to go about making a frame or edging around and image such as the photo example.
This is what I was told to do, but cannot make head to tail from it:
Magic wand outside the picture.
Select>Inverse.
Stroke - set to 1 pixel and desired colour.
New Layer
Move Marquee box to desired position
Stroke again
Move 2nd layer to back